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  2. Give him a LONG STRAW !
  3. The ones I service come off by hand, end of season there removed, inspected, any fishing line removed, greased and installed. Never a problem. I did have to pull both props off a volvo drive with extra heavy duty pullers , props suffered some chain damage but were repairable. Burned/cut the remaining rubber off and sliced the inner splines off the shaft. Owner learned the value of doing the proper service . I see a lot more of it on duo prop systems than single prop systems
  4. It's freaking cold in Ct. Bummer!
  5. Today
  6. Going out later today. I'll report back, if timing the blades like I did, changed anything. Hole shot, top speed, rpm's, etc.
  7. This. I determined this method works the best. Maybe not for all boats, but a 21 to 23 foot will load using this method.
  8. Similar issues here at my local lakes and rivers. Lots of rising water. I have launched a few times; however, fishing has been hit or miss due to water levels, pressure, and temperature. On a side note my neighbor thinks I have a septic issue because of all the water in the ditch below my house. Guess he doesn't know about all the rain and water tables right now lol.
  9. Picked up the boat this evening to get it ready for the weekend so it is dirty! First pic is the Kicker 8's firing aft off of the deck. Second is the speaker location up in the cubby holes by the captain's chairs.
  10. Its definitely a good looking boat. I like the white tower with the grey.
  11. They definitely seem to have no shortage of business. When picked up mine they were saying they'd pretty much be there 24/7 through this weekend. I'm really hoping to get the rest of mine done this weekend.
  12. Very stylish boat hull. Enjoy.
  13. Dried out cable parts are possible in a 2002 boat. I just used a very heavy oil on my 2002. Almost perfect again.
  14. AS a side note about TIGHT PROPS. Tapered shafts used in INBOARD POWERED RACING BOATS. DO DO get tighter after a season If soft keys are used. Or NOT aligned key slots are machined into both parts. Been there with that. But to be expected with hand operated machine shops. Racing boats DO have props race up in the air at WOT. Hit floating junk. Reasons for tight props exist. GORILLIA PEOPLE making the nuts extra tight. Etc.
  15. I am amazed at the number of difficult to get off props. After 60 years of boating with all types of props on shafts. I have never had a splined prop be difficult to remove. A USED PROP can be a ABUSED PROP. POUNDED ON. Run in dirt. CHEAP ARSE mechanic using gritty grease. Shaft or hub made wrong. Prop shop screwing it up during repairs ? How else can a splined shaft & prop get too tight ? I forgot to check the sliding of the prop for the 5 years before my heat attacks. It slid off normally. I just can not buy these new props EVER GETTING TIGHT. Now a bunch of CROOKS SWAPING PROPS BETWEEN BOATS ? Met 2 in my lifetime. Doing change in wind blown sandy places ? Possible if left uncovered.. Then forced on.
  16. Great looking and well taken care of boat.
  17. OMG. Yes sir I need the letter " L " been searching for it for two years now. Thank you.
  18. So new pump went in without issue, although I noticed in the manual that I should not have used teflon tape on the fuel system. Ops. last weekend we had a company lake retreat. Boat wasn't running quite right. Idle was inconsistent sometimes at 550rpm others at 700+. It worked Friday night, and Saturday, but Saturday evening I did a little full throttle action, and carb really started screwing up. Fuel spewing into the barrels, we barely made it back. This week I tore apart the carb and found the floats way off. One was way to high, and the other way too low. Other than that I found no other issues. I was certain that I'd find a blockage or debris, but nope. so I reinstalled the carb last night and do a test start and it seems to run ok. So off to the lake I go, solo. Once there I take it for a short run, and make the slow speed mixture adjustments. However, a new problem rose its head, I'm getting no charge from the alternator. The battery's are charged up so I thought I'd try a full throttle run. Speed quickly rose to 45, then started to bleed off. So I let off the throttle and slowed to 25 and I got a backfire. Wtf. so I return to the ramp dock and pulled open the hatch. I'm wondering if the voltage drop from not having the alternator may be contributing to this, so before I go any further with the miss I decided to figure out what the problem with the alternator is. So out came the seats, and I pulled out a multimeter to confirm voltage while running the engine at 1200 rpm. 12.1v. Not good. So then I check at the alt and get 7v. ??? Wtf, it's only a year old? My alt has an adjustable regulator so I try changing the setting, no change. ??? Before I gave up I happen to move the cables a little and the engine perked up. It turns out the cable was burnt at the alternator output. Ok, so now I realize that while I doubled the size of my alt last year, I didn't upgrade the wire. So as of tonight I have a new 4 gage wire running from alt to battery switch and all seems fine now, but that's based on muffs. We will see what the holiday weekend brings. Hopefully I'll be able to get a good full throttle run. of course while working in the alt I'm finding I have an oil leak! Unbelievable... I finally found that my outdrive oil reservoir is leaking at the bottom. So I suppose I'll order a new one. This stream of issues has caused me to not trust the boat for he Bimini this year. Hopefully The steam will slow to a drip. If at this time next year I'm still fighting with her, she may have to find a new home. In the last two years I've spent more that I paid for the boat in 2010. I've done this thinking I'd get her fresh and keep her. But dang the issues are starting to kill the joy of boating for me. Of course, when I sell her, the next owner probably won't have to do a thing to keep her running. I so desperately want a season without issues. Does it exist?
  19. Better get that water out or you'll end up like me...
  20. yep! I take my props off in the fall when I change the drive oil. Grease them and put them back on. After 15 years, never a problem.
  21. We're really liking our first Chaparral. A 1999, 2330 ss, with a7.4l. At our altitude, GPS verified, 50 mph.
  22. They can heat the prop with a rosebud and easily remove the prop once it expands. The shifting issue you're having seems more like a shifter cable in my opinion.
  23. With a GOOD puller you can pull the prop off its rubber hub and then cut the rubber and inner spline off the prop shaft As with any dual prop system with lots of SS in the water props should be removed AT LEAST once a month.
  24. Hi, I have a big problem and looking for any help! Not mechanically inclined at all so please excuse any bad descriptions here. I just purchased a boat. 02 Chaparral 220 ssi with a Volvo Penta 5.0 GL. Not certain what drive it is, but is is duoprop F 4. Boat drove fine when I went to purchased it. Few days after purchase, lunching boat, I felt shifting from forward to reverse was pretty stiff, but didn't think much about it. After a 10min drive and going to beach it, I realized I couldn't get it into neutral/reverse. Did some quick research and read somewhere to have someone spin the prop while trying to shift. It worked somewhat, I can get it back into neutral with the boat off. Once I turn the engine on, I can either go into forward or reverse, but it won't go back into neutral afterwards. So if I decide to go forward, I can, but I can't get it back to neutral, I can get it to be really slow though. Same for reverse, I would turn off the engine, do the spin prop/jerk throttle back and forth until it goes to neutral. Then shift to reverse and it drives fine in reverse, I just can't get it back to neutral/forward. After doing the spin prop/jerk throttle to neutral, I can press the button to go back and forth in neutral fine. I took it to a shop and they checked the drive oil and said its kind of low and most likely the problem. The problem is, they can not remove the inner (forward?) prop. They said they sprayed it with a lot of carb clearns and such and tried prop puller and still can't do it. The last resort now is to cut the inner prop and replace it. My concern is, is it the gear oil that is the problem? New forward prop is $700+ and labor is another $700, I don't want to go through it if it is not certain it is the problem. Any help and suggestions is greatly appreciated.
  25. Looks nice, looks sharp ... love the simplicity and functionality of the dash. Cool boat!
  26. I had a similar issue with my 235SSI. I used a compressor with a thin tube blow nozzle attachment and a garden hose to blow clean water through the drain. Had quite a lot of muck come out the other end of the drain which drained into the bilge. From what I could tell these drains are relatively small and do not have a smooth interior thus prone to collecting dirt.
  27. Congrats. Nice looking boat.
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