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- Today
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I think you may be stuck in a cold engine condition. That rich condition will ruin oil & soot up sparkplugs & all the valves. I think your engine is running in a full choke condition. THe starting of a warmed up engine with a faster throttle position is the right way to start very rich / flooded engines.
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I will check it out tomorrow and get back with you tomorrow night. Denny.
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Thanks Denny! I was going to describe the snap color as 'Tan' or 'Beige'...but when I went downstairs to take a picture of it, it's more of a brown. However, the replacement carpet I purchased is lighter than the original carpet, so Tan or Beige would actually work too. The Sunbrella Binding (color) that we were planning to purchase is called "Linen". I think(?) I've attached a picture of the current Snap.
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Paint issues on new outdrive, do I need to address right away?
watson524 replied to watson524's topic in Boat Talk
I meant the pucks that are part of the mercathode system seen here and in a service manual https://www.wholesalemarine.com/mercathode-kit-mercury-mercruiser-88334a-2.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwkoDmBRCcARIsAG3xzl-OLTDyjZR4xY0w-6PyRIlNjCBydCupNUvojlES1zL-XYvSxWxZcxQaAsXBEALw_wcB -
I was just watching a video on YouTube and they said there is a needle valve in the fuel pump and if it doesn't seat well it will make the engine run rich. I'll have to test my pump tomorrow and see what I can find.
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Paint issues on new outdrive, do I need to address right away?
Phillbo replied to watson524's topic in Boat Talk
The round 'pucks' are the trim limiting sensors. -
I work part time for a canvas guy, I can ask him where he gets his snaps, and how many you have to by. I will also ask his opinion on the binding, I think that he tries to get matching colors, and I believe that it is Sunbrella. What color snap are you looking for? Denny.
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Cy, that’s about exactly what I am experiencing. I’ll give that connector a second look as soon as it stops raining.
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Paint issues on new outdrive, do I need to address right away?
watson524 replied to watson524's topic in Boat Talk
Yeah but given the issues with corrosion on these drives, I want to make sure I'm taking care of the investment. My last boat lasted 31 years and I expect this to do the same. Couldn't get in the boat but got under it to look around. I'm seeing a few small braided wires attaching to various spots so I'll need to investigate further when I can get in and get the hatch up - unless those are just "normal" grounding wires. Port side I did see a red and blue wire. Haven't tracked down in the service manual what those are but I'm assuming something do with with the trim sending unit tho I'm not sure why any wires for that would be outside the boat since the pump is inside with the hydraulic lines running into that. From what I read in the service manual, the mercathode system will have a red/purple wire going right to a + on the battery from the b screw on the controller box so it should be easy to tell. I didn't see anything on the transom that looked like the two puck things or any electrode looking thing on the bottom of the transom and tho my husband put the batteries in yesterday, from last year when I was poking around in the hatch, I do not recall any oddball red/purple wire to either battery. I did notice that there's rust on what I think is the bottom of the swivel shaft that goes up through the gimbal ring into the steering lever. Not sure why the first two images are sideways. I can assure you the red and blue wires are on the post side, not on top. LOL! I did look at the anodes more closely and while I have no idea what material they are, they don't look overly worn to me. I was basing it off the thin notches on the ones that go on the trim arm. I do feel like on my old boat where I had an OMC 4.3 with a Cobra outdrive, the anode material was less porous looking as it got used up and looked a lot less "used" than these do and that was over multiple years (it had a lot fewer and I always judged it off the "fin" anode under the cavitation plate) if any of that makes sense. -
Thanks. I'll probably end up with the Sunbrella Binding. I was hoping someone might have a source for the colored snaps - they do match the carpeting and look a lot better than the stainless, but if that's all we can get...
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WE need to know & accept when we have a no win condition. That is when odd ball efforts are called for. Way to go Dave I can remember a group meeting on basket cases. Unlimited beer, coffee & sugared doughnuts to get the best solutions. Sometimes.
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Paint issues on new outdrive, do I need to address right away?
Phillbo replied to watson524's topic in Boat Talk
Don't overthink the paint. Enjoy the season and have fun. It's just paint. -
What are some cool modifications you've done to your boat?
Denny replied to Hatem's topic in Boat Talk
It is kinda neat. Cuts his hole, inserts a fiberglass tub and glasses it in, piece of cake, should only take you a couple of hours. Denny. -
I broke a bolt off on mine. I threaded a nut on what was left and migged it on with my welder. Took it right out with a 9/16. Keep a fire extinguisher hand if you do like I did.
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I installed a small 5 circuit fuse box under the helm. For GPS, VHF, NMEA2K and alike. I had to drill from the starboard side in the engine compartment up to the helm. I installed extra switches as needed. As in https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=bep-contour-generation-2-spray-proof-switch-panel-fused&path=-1|328|2290000|2290003&id=768041 And https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=blue-sea-systems-st-blade-fuse-block-without-negative-bus&path=-1|328|2290021|2290030&id=1334726
- Yesterday
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Straightforward, but being handy and a problem solver helps. Likewise, they’re heavy, bulky and many engine compartments don’t have significant space so being able to get into and out of uncomfortable positions helps. If you can change a tire, brakes, spark plugs, a ball joint, an outlet with the power on...; remove a mower blade, put it back on and it doesn’t fly off...; know what a ball screw and a thread insert is...; have tapped a blind hole...; can read and follow directions (even the steps that seem illogical)...; you’ll be fine. Don’t sweat broken bolts. Not the end of the world. All can be fixed one way or another. Even the ones that “can’t” come out. If you can’t do any of the preceding, but want to dive in and learn, you’ll also do just fine. Might take longer, but you’ll do great nonetheless. Plus, there’s some really knowledgeable, helpful and nearly always available people here on this blog that can help and guide you along the way.
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Who has changed their manifolds themselves? Is it a straight-forward parts swap, or something esoteric? Short of breaking a bolt in the head, should all go smoothly?
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they discontinued the 18 because mercruiser stop making the 3.0 the later years were carbureted instead of mpi I have a 15 and its been great except for a few minor issues corrected by the dealer under warranty
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+1 to fuel pressure check. The symptoms and corrective action suggest a failed pressure regulator.
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Next step fuel pressure check
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I have a 2017 h20 and I can’t tell if any changes. From ‘17-‘19
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NEED to be VERY accurate on how the engine dies. Sounds like a loose connection I had on a 2002 5.0L engine. Cold starting engine. Turn the key to starter and instant fire up. as soon as I let the key go back to IGNITION / run position. It would stop instantly. Did this 5 times in a row. I restarted & HELD THE KEY in the starter position engine & starter kept running. Moved the throttle up to about 1000 rpm as a test. Kept running. Released the starter position. instant dead engine. Called my mechanic & told him about it. Piece of cake he said. I show him & he does it also. Says the computer is toast. Whips out his pocket knife & opens the small blade out. Pulls the big electrical connector apart on the engine. Spreads each SPLIT PIN VERY SLIGHTLY. Reconnects the connector. Restarts it normally forever.
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I have a 2004 230ssi with a vp 5.7 gi-e. It fires right away on a cold start but runs rich all the time. It will not start when its warm unless throttle is applied or I unplug the pcv hose from the manifold behind the throttle body. In fact it only runs good at idle with the pvc hose unplugged. The smoke also clears when the hose is unplugged. the iac valve does function and was replaced last year with one from orielliys. Also changed mass air sensor, crank position sensor, knock sensors, temp sensor, manifolds and risers, tps sensor, ac delco plugs, marine cap and rotor. I checked the timing chain and it was like new. a timing light shows that it is advancing the timing as the rpms go up. it will run under 3500 rpm all day but if i push it harder it will knock and backfire. Any suggestions on where to go from here? I think it is starving for air but that doesn't explain the high rpm knock.
