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About paulswagelock

  1. I called Corsa and they are sending all new o-rings. I asked for the parts diagram but I doubt these are very complicated. Would like to hear from someone who changed them out.
  2. digging up an old thread. Did you ever fix this and can you explain what you did?
  3. Sanding it off or some sort of bead blasting are probably the only choices. As others said, the new anodes will not cure this problem.
  4. Please post the name and brand of the paint. Then we can see if there is an issue.
  5. Engine details please.
  6. Stick stuck in the outdrive. Doesn't take but a 4-5 inch piece. Just "fixed" two this weekend suffering the same issue. Look again at the front of the drive/ gimbal area.
  7. Not the surveyor..... the contract you sign will remove all liability for errors and omissions.
  8. There is a lock between that ramp and the downtown pool.
  9. Great advice to seek out dockmates experience.
  10. In both cases, the drives were touched up or repainted. Mg anodes installed and no further corrosion- docked in the same slips with the same neighboring boats for several years after the initial corrosion. The only variable was the anodes, definitely the issue. Very clean water but obviously conductive. These drives required the least noble metal possible for anodes or the drive suffers. Aluminum just can't be used.
  11. Been a Pgh boater for 30 years. You summed it up properly. The south side launch is it but hard to do solo, and an absolute nightmare during busy times. There are decent ones but each are a lock and 30 minutes away. I have not been in that pool in 20 years now because of the logistics.
  12. My last boat was delivered by the factory with AL anodes (Bravo 3), dealer and I both missed it. After one season I had some blistering on the drive. We are fresh river water, a few thousand miles from any salt water. Mg anodes are an absolute requirement here. A new Monterey twin Bravo 3 boat had the same dealer issue of wrong anodes delivered from factory. He had serious corrosion on both drives after one season.
  13. Rough idle and needing to advance the throttle to start scream IAC valve. Quick and easy fix. Now the smoking exhaust might be something else.
  14. The added stress is tough on the u joint and coupler. It probably leads to an earlier failure. I know some guys who do it all the time without issue but I also know folks that blew out the coupler with very low hours.
  15. I worry that I had the cool fuel failure, but did not see much paint flaking, so might have died of other causes. But there could have been some small flaking and it is in the screens on the injectors slightly degrading performance or combustion optimization. That said, 8 years is a long time and the injectors have not been serviced. If I can purchase new for 50 ish deer, and servicing is 20+ ish deer, figured I would replace and hold the old ones and have them serviced in a few years as the swap outs (rotate).