paulswagelock

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About paulswagelock

  1. I will defer to some of the more experienced guys, but the few boats I have seen needing this repair had the engine pulled.
  2. Appears your steering lever is toast. Most times that requires the engine to be removed to change out from the ones I have seen. I have a hard time accepting that is freshwater use.
  3. Merc Verado outboards have a 50 amp fuse but as stated above IO does not.
  4. Over 3000 rpm, that is the clue. Low water pressureor flow causing elevated exhaust temperatures gets my vote. Worn impeller/water pump scoring or the dreaded bravoitis. I vote the latter.
  5. The 223 is 6" wider, 2 feet longer and 1000 pounds heavier. Also has an extra degree of deadrise. i would pick the 223.
  6. Usually the raw water pump fails. They can sometimes be rebuilt for under $100 in parts and an hour or so labor. If it needs replaced, figure $650 or so in parts and an hour or so labor.
  7. Merry Christmas. Thanks for all of the help this past year.
  8. The charger will draw about 3 amps AC current to produce 20 amps of DC current at 12 volts, so the extension cord is well within the operating limit. This issue as stated above is that the shore power breaker is 30 amp which the extension cord can't handle. So on a short, the breaker will likely trip and all is fine. But if the charger failed and started to draw 25 amps AC let's say, the breaker won't trip but that extension cord could start a fire by melting the insulation from overheating. Can the charger fail like that? Don't know, do you?
  9. ^^^ sound advice. I am certain that I will "lose" over $300k in my life to this boating hobby. Between new boats, insurance, maintenance, depreciation, ... it adds up. However, the memories forged over the past 20 years and the next years with the loved ones I have, have lost, and will gain, are a fair trade for me. I live within my means, have retirement fully funded already, have paid/am paying for all my children's education, so it is money I can afford, and spend willingly. Did I finance some at the beginning- absolutely. Hit rewind and start again, would I repeat it - absolutely. On the topic at hand, I think Brunswick is moving with the times, getting out of a business segment that is not a great fit for them, and hoping the brand has enough value now to lure in a buyer. Sea Ray buyers are loyal for the most part, and will follow the brand to a new owner if it sells. The new owner has some changes to make to transform it into a viable business, but I bet they figure those out and it becomes a profitable business. I think it will be a foreign owner this time, looking to gain some North America market share.
  10. ^^^^^^^^^ kinda blows the Original poster's price adjustment calculation out the window.....
  11. The boat can sell for what a buyer will pay. I recently sold my mint 2008 29' day boat with a 496 and with every possible option, in perfect condition. There were 40 of them for sale in the US. I priced mine above the rest to reflect condition and the phone was quiet for 3 months. I priced it on the low end of the range and the phone lit up and sold in 3 days. Also, additions and upgrades are for the user, not the buyer. Every boat dealer in the world will tell you never expect to recoup your cost. So price it high and be ready to wait for that one buyer, or price it to sell and move on.
  12. Mercruiser 8.1 in a Sea Ray 270 SLX boat.
  13. I noticed a small drip at the end of the season from my Corsa exhaust, where the shaft exits the diverter tube. It dripped about once every 45 seconds or so, very little. I called Corsa and they recommended changing the o rings that seal the shaft in the the diverted tube. They sent me a bag of free replacement o rings, maybe 1/4" or so. Today I went to my storage building and dug in. Six large hose clamps and one electrical plug hold it in there. A cordless drill and flat bit made quick work of the clamps. With some wiggling, wrangling and brute force I got the diverted assembly out from the 3 large hoses it mounts to. I left the hoses connected in the boat and removed them all from the diverted itself. Once on the bench I could see the butterfly plate that needed removed to allow the shaft to slide out. I left all the linkages connected and simply removed the two hex head screws holding the entire actuator assembly to the diverted. This avoids any adjustment later. The hex head screws holding the butterfly plate were fairly deep inside, so a combination of an Allen bit, some extensions, and a ratcheting screwdriver got them out. Make sure you take a picture of the linkage before you unbolt the bracket so you see how to put it back. It can swivel and go back two different ways, but only one is correct. The small o rings get cut out then you roll the two new ones down the shaft into their recess slots. Then reverse the process to get it back together. Some tape to hold the butterfly Allen screws to the long extension is needed to get them started. Once together, compress the actuator manually to make sure it all moves freely. Then wrestle the entire assembly back in, bottom hose on first, then side hose to through hull fitting, finally last hose to manifold assembly.Tighten 6 hose clamps, plug in electrical connector, done.Took about 1 hour. On a scale of 1 to five, one being easy, this is a 2.
  14. I can't see what engine you have, but if you were pushing AF into the flush hose, without the engine running, I would be surprised much made it to the block at all. You would need to push it past a non spinning raw water pump then push it past the non spinning engine circulating pump. Not too likely. When the engine is not going to be run, pulling hoses and pouring AF in is the only way to get it where is needs to go. A v8 block takes several gallons to fill it.
  15. Already factored the tax into the difference. Negotiated hard and is a fair deal, just not sure what that convenience is worth.