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  1. You should be able to keep your hand on your exhaust manifold at all times, should never be too hot to touch, quick way to check.
  2. I am more a Merc guy, but I doubt there is any diagnostic on the fuel delivery side for Volvo either. I am thinking the Exhaust manifold temperature is rising above the alarm limit and backing off the power until it cools down. The temperature you read on your gauge is engine circulation temp, there are also sensors in the exhaust manifolds. Low water flow can still provide sufficient engine cooling, but not enough volume for the exhaust to stay cool. Water pump service if not done in a while would be my first shot.
  3. “Watch the fuel pressure fade” is your clue. Go at it systematically. As mentioned, Replace the fuel lines as they can be spongy inside and sucking shut, replace the antisiphon valve, clean the small filter, and if it still exists, try an external tank. If all those suggestions from others don’t fix it, go with the final suggestion of putting in an electronic fuel pump. It seems that the fuel delivery is your issue if you are accurate that pressure fades and motor dies, so take everyone’s suggestions and systematically replace the items that are not much money, ending with the fuel pump.
  4. Won’t hurt. If there is sufficient water volume and pressure from the hose no salt water will be drawn in, it would actually push salt away out the drive.
  5. This. really shouldn’t switch the batteries while running for the odd chance the switch breaks before makes, or you accidentally switch through “off”. That will damage alternator.
  6. This list contains most of the common alarms, beep sequences and power limits. So if your power was severely limited, there are only a few things that will do that. 512au5re9znf.pdf
  7. Only a handful of items will put you in full reduction guardian mode. As mentioned, post your engine type and year.
  8. Can you convert a catalyst 8.2 to non catalyst? Do the parts exist? Can the ECU be flashed to ignore O2?
  9. Yep, blue goo and you will be good or 4200 as mentioned.
  10. My 8.1 had bravoitis and had to have the water tube and through fitting replaced. Although mine was not caused by saltwater. I had the factory flush fitting. The previous owner would run the engine on that fitting for extended periods. It does not let water come through the lower unit, so the exhaust temperature melted the plastic elbow. what water pressure are you seeing at idle, 2000,3000,4000 rpm?
  11. To be fair, Chap should have caught that at the factory, but your dealer certainly should have caught that as well. That is part of the prep fee paid on new boats.
  12. Depending on what brand, there could be a driver somewhere in the circuit that will need checked.
  13. Small tear in bellows or not sealed could give the amount of water you are seeing.
  14. Boat could be absolutely fine except for the gas. Or, could be a complete wreck with bad seals, bellows, seized engine, rusted internal on drives, etc. all depends on how she was put away. Full check by a mechanic, but as important will be a several hour sea trial putting it through the paces to see if anything gives out.
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