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About paulswagelock

  1. Mercruiser 8.1 in a Sea Ray 270 SLX boat.
  2. I noticed a small drip at the end of the season from my Corsa exhaust, where the shaft exits the diverter tube. It dripped about once every 45 seconds or so, very little. I called Corsa and they recommended changing the o rings that seal the shaft in the the diverted tube. They sent me a bag of free replacement o rings, maybe 1/4" or so. Today I went to my storage building and dug in. Six large hose clamps and one electrical plug hold it in there. A cordless drill and flat bit made quick work of the clamps. With some wiggling, wrangling and brute force I got the diverted assembly out from the 3 large hoses it mounts to. I left the hoses connected in the boat and removed them all from the diverted itself. Once on the bench I could see the butterfly plate that needed removed to allow the shaft to slide out. I left all the linkages connected and simply removed the two hex head screws holding the entire actuator assembly to the diverted. This avoids any adjustment later. The hex head screws holding the butterfly plate were fairly deep inside, so a combination of an Allen bit, some extensions, and a ratcheting screwdriver got them out. Make sure you take a picture of the linkage before you unbolt the bracket so you see how to put it back. It can swivel and go back two different ways, but only one is correct. The small o rings get cut out then you roll the two new ones down the shaft into their recess slots. Then reverse the process to get it back together. Some tape to hold the butterfly Allen screws to the long extension is needed to get them started. Once together, compress the actuator manually to make sure it all moves freely. Then wrestle the entire assembly back in, bottom hose on first, then side hose to through hull fitting, finally last hose to manifold assembly.Tighten 6 hose clamps, plug in electrical connector, done.Took about 1 hour. On a scale of 1 to five, one being easy, this is a 2.
  3. I can't see what engine you have, but if you were pushing AF into the flush hose, without the engine running, I would be surprised much made it to the block at all. You would need to push it past a non spinning raw water pump then push it past the non spinning engine circulating pump. Not too likely. When the engine is not going to be run, pulling hoses and pouring AF in is the only way to get it where is needs to go. A v8 block takes several gallons to fill it.
  4. Already factored the tax into the difference. Negotiated hard and is a fair deal, just not sure what that convenience is worth.
  5. What do you think is a fair cost for the convenience of trading in on a new boat versus selling outright? I guess as a percentage of new boat price would be best to keep it relative. For instance, I can trade my boat in on a new boat that is $130k and in real dollars would be receiving about $10k less than if I sold outright. What do you think that convenience is worth?
  6. Then a simple "That's what I do" is fewer words and puts the issue to rest....
  7. Temperature of the antifreeze should not harm anything. That said, you REALLY need to drain the block then use your recirc method.
  8. I winterized my own. Oil and filter, lower unit oil, lube prop shaft, grease coupler, new anodes, lubricate all linkages, antifreeze in water system for sinks, winterized vacuflush, and antifreeze in engine. Takes a few hours, but can get the materials for $150 total or a bit less since I grab them on sale as the year goes on. At my marina, that list of work would run about $1000.
  9. Going off memory, I believe I had hoses in the way that needed moved - I just remember using some choice words as I am 6'6" tall and not particularly limber. I did the easy side first and quite a bit drained out. More came out of the starboard side, but not as much additional as I thought. I bet 3/4 drained from the first plug.
  10. Changed mine this year. The plugs have hex heads on them, are on the block midway back, and just above the base of the block. The port side was easy, on mine the starboard side was tough. Mine took a little over 16 quarts to refill, so it did not quite drain completely. I purchased straight Dexcool on sale for $9 gallon and cut it 50% with distilled water. see item number 3 in linked diagram
  11. Doesn't look corroded to me. Looks like it gets warm and has mineral deposits on it. And the lower leg looks repainted or replaced.
  12. I think what he meant was the obsession we all have with getting it changed at low hours, getting every last drop, etc. i have run oil analysis on mine and have readily determined I could go 2 seasons without changing the oil, but I still do it every season despite analytical proof it isn't needed. Why? $100k boat and $25 bucks to change the oil, seems cheap enough just to do it. Same holds true with cars. Many can easily go 10-15k miles between oil changes but most people still change it at 3000.
  13. I connect mine to the garden hose attachment on the dipstick. Do several boats for friends. Have always got to within less than 1/2 quart of posted capacity, sometimes posted capacity. I am confident I am getting most oil out on all boats serviced.
  14. Usually cable, clutch or wrong lower unit oil causes this. Have the shop start looking.
  15. Check out Westland custom covers. They probably make one for your boat. You would need to put the bimini down to use it though. I have one for my 30' open bow and it fits absolutely perfect. It snugs up below the rub rail. I use it for an in-water mooring cover, but if you put the straps on, it is rated to be used while towing. Bald Mike's website is where I got it from, but there are others that handle that brand cover.