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paulswagelock

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  1. Spend my time now at 3 other sites. Tried yours, dead site.
  2. How about giving me access and I will delete spam post each morning. Seems none of the admins care to take the time.

  3. I would be leary of sleeping on a boat powered by extension cords. The power pedestal is a 30 amp breaker. I believe that converter is still 30 amps without a 15 amp breaker, although it has a 15 amp plug on it. So add an extension cord and you are sending potentially 30 amps down a cord not rated for more than 16-18 likely. That is a potential fire hazard. So say your AC shorts out it can pull 30 amps (actually closer to 40 before the breaker would trip) on a cord rated for less than 20, and could remain like that indefinitely since it is under the breaker trip. Cord heats up, fire starts.
  4. It is likely you will need to drop pitch to run a rev4. Reach out to Ken at propgods for his opinion.
  5. I have a light tan interior and it is a requirement to sit on towels all summer in Pa.
  6. Very large market for them today. The center console guys are all going nuts with 38-50’ boats, Formula from 40-50, Sea Ray at 40’. They will have a long backlog for orders. I think VP buying 7 was the case of poor due diligence. So many third party components there was not much margin in there for a global conglomerate.
  7. I read everything I could find on that motor, some really cool technology. That motor is not for many boaters given the weight and price, but hopefully that technology makes it to the 300-400 hp motors. For now, those buying or repowering 40’ boats and above have an interesting new choice.
  8. Great time to sell, tough time to buy. Short inventory. Have you found the replacement Chappy yet, most boats new lead time is 9-12 months from order.
  9. You will be fine with the pink af in there. It slushes in the low single digits, freezes below zero, but does not expand with enough force to harm most things.
  10. If bottom painted correctly, you should get 3-4 years out of the application. A quick power wash at the end of each season and you are good to go again. Eventually you will need to roll on a new coat or two of the same paint. If the paint chosen is correct for your conditions, no in between maintenance needed. Check with nearby boaters on what they are using and how it works and lasts for them.
  11. Lots of folks doing conversions out there. It takes specialized skills, but completely possible. Most use a premade bracket, several brands available. Finding two good matching used motors and rigging, a bit of a wildcard, but would expect you need a $40k budget just for that. So figure $60k plus the boat plus your labor.
  12. In my freshwater marina in Pa, if you do not bottom paint growth will be heavy and will slow you down 5-10mph depending on the hull. In the fall, pressure washing without acid would be futile. It is necessary. So, really only 2 options. Leave it alone and understand the downside in the performance hit and needing to acid wash each fall, which many do. Or, bottom paint. There are several white bottom paints with good performance now days. Hardly know the boat is bottom painted.
  13. Sounds like you dodged the bullet and got lucky. However, if you don’t fix the cause for water intrusion, it will happen again and you might not be as lucky. Time to do some hard searching for the cause.
  14. Friend has 2006 version. His is bubbling in the same spot. It is a painted aluminum arch, not fiberglass. Would need sanded prepped and repainted.
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