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Richard W

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  1. Certainly, every boat is different ... My Chap as built had two outlet hoses terminated in the bilge under the engine near transom and the inlet hose in the bilge in front of the engine, under water pump and balancer. Looked to me like at least adequate if not just right placement which works in either case, under power and when moored. What was not adequate is the fact that all three vent hoses were connected to the vents on starboard side ... all three vents are under one large cowling. This inadequate install ensures undesired circular air flow under many circumstances. Things lik
  2. As already suggested ... Replaced the noisy and power hungry Jabsco blowers (12-14A each) with inexpensive compact Attwood blowers (3-4A each) and you will get a similar CFM rating with less noise. Go with waterproof version, 3" or 4" as applicable to your install. The blower hoses should go to the lowest place in the bilge ... not just somewhere in the engine compartment ... somewhere under the engine. Consider replacing and/or rerouting all vent hoses as well. Two discussions about It ... Hope this helps ...
  3. Amen to that ... I have used my first chance already. Came too close to the rock shelf at low water and nicked the bottom of outdrive bulb pretty badly. The drive went up, the skeg and props survived without damage. Overall, nothing a jar of MarineTex epoxy and four cans of various paints couldn't fix. Got lucky this time. Having said that, my next boat intended for long term cruising and passage making will have straight shaft or v-drive and two diesels. The i/o is just too complex with too many parts outside the hull that can cause trouble and require a strict and frequent maintenance .
  4. This might be a very good point ... going to check the Robalo line right now.
  5. Selective argument ... look at the OP subject and some of the replies ... want to buy and want to sell ads. I guess I will have to unsubscribe from this "boating" forum to avoid the annoying emails and ads ... have enough spam coming from other sources. That, plus the renewed nonsense ... the arrogant ignorant is back yakking. See you all, but the one (*), again later!
  6. Life cycle has its ups and downs ... such is life. I lost both of my parents, and I am sorry to hear about your loss. Glad to see you back here now and on the water soon ...
  7. Just FYI ... from the terms we all have agreed to when registering with this forum ... let's keep it non commercial ... COMMERCIAL POSTING: No selling – even used boats Chaparral Boats' Forum exists for the non-commercial exchange of information. All posts or signatures that are deemed to be commercial in nature are a violation of this user agreement and will be removed. As it pertains to the User Agreement, Chaparral defines “commercial post” as knowing and willful posts made by private individuals or businesses, directly or indirectly seeking commerce. Additionally, posts made by i
  8. Can you do your private dealings on BoatTrader or somewhere else ... this is boating forum not trading forum. Thanks.
  9. Short of extreme conditions, a well made boat with self bailing cockpit should stay dry at dock and on open water. It is not normal when there is water leaking inside at all time. Might not be critical but one never knows what and why is leaking till one identifies the culprit. Then one can chose to ignore it or fix it based on personal preference and tolerance for risk. One or two gallons per day would be way too much for me to ignore. My boat does not collect that much water in the bilge thru the entire season ... and I know where it is coming from and how much to expect.
  10. @DANCATAL I would suggest getting marine electric service company, qualified service marina, or some qualified help to design and install the system. The marine electrical installations are quite more involved than simple household 120/240 Vac. The boat electric systems can get complicated and/or unsafe quickly. For one, a boat is in the water. If something is not done correctly the prospect of galvanic corrosion is the least of a problem, water significantly increases the danger of killing somebody incidentally. Second, a boat has two separate but interacting electrical systems, 120
  11. Sorry, no idea ... broken, miswired, replaced with a different model. If there is no flashing red light with battery switches on and/or off while not connected to shore power, I would be concerned.
  12. Nothing wrong with flashing red light on galvanic isolator while no shore power connected ... perfectly normal ... it means it works and says "broken" open shore power circuit. Connecting to shore power should clear the condition and lit the solid green light instead of flashing red. Then do a polarity test ... the other big red light should come on while the polarity toggle switch is on. If in doubt, call marine electrician who can do the instrument testing.
  13. The 1 or MIN position is usually the least cold operating temperature, the 7 or MAX position is the coldest setting. Chances are the fridge's internal thermostat can be set to the OFF, ZERO (0) ... whatever its dial says ... position to switch the fridge off. The dial in my boat's fridge needs to be slightly forced into OFF position ... it feels like a switch click when getting it to the OFF position. The galvanic isolator monitor lits red with no shore power as it should since the shore power circuit is "broken" when open.
  14. Yup, it all depends ... the VP manual also states 650CCA minimum for EFI engines. Let's keep in mind that these specs were formulated some twenty years ago, and the battery technology has changed dramatically since. To play safe go with starting flooded battery of 700CCA minimum for the engine, and deep cycle battery or batteries for the house. Another alternative is to go with good 1000ACC or better deep cycle batteries, dual purpose and AGM type possibly, and it will work as it did for the previous owner. With today's choices of battery types and capacity there are valid options that we
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