Richard W

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About Richard W

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    Always Learning

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  • Location
    : Snowbirding:: Winters - FL, USA and Summers - ON, CANADA
  • Interests
    Mountaineering, hiking, sailing, boating, robotics, and getting the job done right!

    Overheard on the forums …

    1. The water is always bluer on the other side of the ocean.

    2. God gave you two ears and one mouth for a reason.
    When you talk, it's only about things you already know. When you listen, you learn.

    3. Docking ... it's a controlled collision.
    Sometimes more controlled than others, with a nice feeling when it goes well.

    4. Red, Right, Returning ... and ... Red, Left, Leaving ... :slap:

    5. Great minds discuss ideas; average minds discuss events; small minds discuss people. - Eleanor Roosevelt

    6. Ignorance compounded by arrogance ... a destructive formula.

    7. Once you stop learning you start dying. - Albert Einstein

    8. I Gotta Get Outta Here ...

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Not normal but the situation is not plain yes or no either ... more like maybe I will buy it, maybe I will not, but hold it for me. Do you want the dealer to hold a boat for you by means of giving you the first right of refusal? If yes, then the fully refundable deposit sounds reasonable to me, and indicates that you are an interested buyer not just a tire kicker. Just get the refundable deposit assurance in writing. If that arrangement does not feel right, move on ... there are many other dealers and plenty of boats for sale.
  2. Yes, in this case the brakes are required on all axles, it's also a good safety measure. Here is a copy of an applicable PA law:
  3. That's interesting ... Looks like the gauge is working and the sender is flaky. Do the jar test to confirm.
  4. Resistance/ohms ... as float is moved up and down the rod, the resistance of the core (rheostat) changes and the fuel gauge registers the change. Here is a cheat sheet for how to determine where the fault is, sender or gauge ... ... more info and videos on the net if you need to go into more testing.
  5. As already said, second picture shows 120vac control panel with switches. The bottom of the third picture shows 120vac status. Everything seems to be labeled nicely, just the labels are not legible in these pictures.
  6. This is a custom trailer made specifically for this MY boat. Judging by the labels the trailer was made either for Chap or Chap dealer, and came with the boat. The axles are indeed torsion axles and all are mounted into fixed brackets. All brackets look same, are welded into the frame and painted over at the same time with the rest of the trailer. No signs of after market mods. The spacing looks intentional, but the reason escapes me. Any guesses?
  7. As it should be ... otherwise you would have a wet alternator anytime it rains or boat takes water while docked. There might be other circuits connected directly to the batteries on your boat.
  8. Somewhere fore of the base of an arch would be my starting point. FWIW, here is my custom made trailer for 2007 Sig 270 with oddly spaced axles ...
  9. Boat info (year/model/etc) would be helpful. Where is the crack in relation to boats' length? Mid section? Is there a boat wide bulkhead behind that crack ... something like an engine compartment fore wall?
  10. Same here ... 3M line of boat cleaning products for me, they work and to keep it simple.
  11. You were saying ... ???
  12. You should have been able to move the prop into final position by hand. If you had to use the nut to move the prop, it might bind with the shaft and be very difficult to take off in the future. I would remove the prop now, inspect what is causing the unexpected friction, lube the shaft and try it again.
  13. Double check the obvious first: - props are facing the right way, - nuts are facing the right way. For clarity, use boat's view as a reference not your view from behind the boat ... front prop goes first and is closer to boat's front (bow), rear/back prop goes second and is aft (back) from the front prop.
  14. Might not be easy to buildup the wall and close the hole ... this tutorial might help:
  15. Is there a void inside or is it a solid fiberglass wall with oversized holes? In either case the solution is similar, fill in the holes with poly or epoxy resin, or buildup the void with fiberglass. Redrill the holes using proper diameter drill bit, and install the hinge using the proper screws and no washers. Use a dab of 3M 4000 or 4200 sealant to seal around the screw threads and to lock the screws in place. BTW, the problem you have is caused by the round head screws (injury) and washers (insult). This contraption pulls the hinge from the wall whenever the door is being closed. Use the screws with countersink heads of proper diameter for that hinge. Look at the door side of the hinge for the screw type and size, and how to do it correctly. If the hinge is deformed, I bet it is, repair or replace the hinge first. Piano hinges require proper screws and precision of installation to work well. If done correctly, they work and last for nearly ever.