Richard W

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About Richard W

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    Always Learning

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  • Location
    : Snowbirding:: Winters - FL, USA and Summers - ON, CANADA
  • Interests
    Mountaineering, hiking, sailing, boating, robotics, and getting the job done right!

    Overheard on the forums …

    1. The water is always bluer on the other side of the ocean.

    2. God gave you two ears and one mouth for a reason.
    When you talk, it's only about things you already know. When you listen, you learn.

    3. Docking ... it's a controlled collision.
    Sometimes more controlled than others, with a nice feeling when it goes well.

    4. Red, Right, Returning ... and ... Red, Left, Leaving ... :slap:

    5. Great minds discuss ideas; average minds discuss events; small minds discuss people. - Eleanor Roosevelt

    6. Ignorance compounded by arrogance ... a destructive formula.

    7. Once you stop learning you start dying. - Albert Einstein

    8. I Gotta Get Outta Here ...

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  1. Thanks for posting about the problem and sharing the solution. Appreciated as Teleflex is often used in Chap boats. About the pictures, photobucket hit the bucket a few weeks ago. Could you upload at least the one with the two critical screws to your gallery here on this forum. You will be able to post a link to that image from your post. TIA.
  2. As others said ... YES. IMO ... any planning boat 24' or longer should come from the factory with adjustable trim tabs as a standard equipment.
  3. If the cracks are superficial, do what Cyc said above using gelcoat only. Poly resin first to fill in the gaps if the cracks are deep, and after the resin cures, paint the surface with gelcoat. Fiberglass (poly resin and glass mat) if the damage is extensive/structural and reconstruction is required. Then the gelcoat as above to seal the surface, and for esthetics.
  4. Sorry, no practical knowledge of how to get to them ... I never had too but probably I should check just in case. Some ideas ... these thruhulls seem to be located aft of the head behind where the A/C installation and mid berth cabinetry is installed. Check the area for any access ports or removeable cabin wall panel ... I do not recall for sure but there might be an access wall panel inside the storage compartment in that cabinet. Keep us posted if you find the access ... I might need it too at some point. The other idea ... keep looking for the leaks around swim platform. Inside, and outside around rubrail. I have small persistent leak there that collects water on the bottom inside swim platform that overflows often to the back of a bulkhead on which the waste tank sits, and then to bilge. The amount of water leaked seems to be proportional to the amount of time the boat is on plane with swim platform constantly washed over by the wake. I have sealed all identified screws, bolts, hinges, misdrilled holes, ladder brackets, and redid and resealed both ends of the swim platform vent ... and still have some minor leak. My suspicion is the pesky swim platform vent ... the way it is designed and executed, it is almost impossible to seal the thru ends without grinding and smoothing interior surface at both ends. Furthermore, the screws that hold the vent cover on top of the swim platform move up and down ever time you step on it. These two large diameter unsecured screws by themselves could be a source of a substantial leak underway. I have added the supports, pieces of hard plastic tubes around the bolts and sandwiched between cover and swim platform and then used bolts and nuts to compress this 3-layer sandwich so nothing moves up and down. Plenty of sealant was used to fix the problems all around the swim platform. As for the adhesive sealant ... I use semi permanent 3M 4000 UV or 4200. The 3M 5200 is called permanent, and they mean it.
  5. Good, this is less serious and easier to fix than a leaking seacocks or thruhull transducer. Still, make sure that water did not get into the hull. Your boat like mine has a plastic honeycomb core with plenty of space to collect water, that can and will start spreading around with time.
  6. Main bilge thruhull? Do you mean seacock?
  7. There are no drain hoses or thruhulls leading from anchor locker outside on the 2007 Sig 270. Just raw holes drilled in the hull, left finished, covered with small clam shells outside. Sometimes they drilled them too low, sometime too high, but there is no other hardware other than the clam shells involved.
  8. It's not bent, it is fashionably curved to simulate a Vortex craft behavior in neutral ...
  9. Bemis is a seat manufacturer's name, you could try to search the web and/or their site for that part number. You can measure seat width and length, and the distance between mounting holes, and search for a generic replacement seat this way.
  10. Hopefully it will get diagnosed quickly now, and won't cost arm and leg to fix it. All the best and keep us posted on the diagnosis. This is how we all learn, from each other experience.
  11. If this is the case, examine carefully the anchor locker bottom and inside of the locker drain holes. The drains sit even lower than u-bolt. My leak was coming from the inside of the drain holes. In my case, they were drilled at grade as they should but too low and went thru locker floor breaching the floor wall joint.
  12. If the source is somewhere in fore or mid bilge and water collects under the fuel tank first, look at these options, some already mentioned. Anchor locker ... water getting there thru drains covered with SS clamshells does not drain back but finds its way down to the inside bow and bilge. There were multiple reports of drains installed way above locker bottom, and water collecting there. In my case the drain holes were drilled a bit too low breaching the hull wall and locker bottom joint. I ended up using epoxy to seal the entire locker bottom including enforcing and sealing wall/bottom corner and inside of the drain holes. Thruhulls, seacocks ... lose clamps, missing hoses, hoses not connected to anything ... all had been reported. Potable water installation ... not likely but could be leaking, you would notice water tank level going down. Bow u-bolt ... needs to be fixed if leaking but it would not be a source of the amount of water you have been reporting, unless it is missing altogether.
  13. What do you do then when the electric lift motor is dead as might be the case here? ... short of making the missing access port in a hurry.
  14. ... as is the lack of a proper use of horn and understanding of horn signals. Going thru the fairly narrow marked channel met the boat going opposite direction and weaving from red to green side of the channel. I could not get a fix on their heading as the distance between boats was getting shorter and shorter. At still safe separation I gave ONE SHORT blast ... meaning, regardless of what COLREGS you use, I am steering to starboard and/or passing you on my port side. I got the other boat's attention as they straightened and fixed their course ... but ... Instead of replying in kind with ONE SHORT blast to convey the agreement, the other captain gave me a ONE FINGER salute when passing port to port. At least we had not collided ... mission accomplished ... sort of ...
  15. Try bottom of the trunks under the lounge layed over the engine hatch.