Richard W

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About Richard W

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    Always Learning

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    : Snowbirding:: Winters - FL, USA and Summers - ON, CANADA
  • Interests
    Mountaineering, hiking, sailing, boating, robotics, and getting the job done right!

    Overheard on the forums …

    1. The water is always bluer on the other side of the ocean.

    2. God gave you two ears and one mouth for a reason.
    When you talk, it's only about things you already know. When you listen, you learn.

    3. Docking ... it's a controlled collision.
    Sometimes more controlled than others, with a nice feeling when it goes well.

    4. Red, Right, Returning ... and ... Red, Left, Leaving ... :slap:

    5. Great minds discuss ideas; average minds discuss events; small minds discuss people. - Eleanor Roosevelt

    6. Ignorance compounded by arrogance ... a destructive formula.

    7. Once you stop learning you start dying. - Albert Einstein

    8. I Gotta Get Outta Here ...

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  1. If that is VP OEM part, try your local VP site to locate their online store and/or dealers in their network. If that is Chap part, which is likely the case, you might not be able to source it anymore. In either case it might be easier to make your own or replace whatever is broken, the plate or the ignition protected switch. Good luck!
  2. His motor is cavitating, whatever that means ... just saying ...
  3. Here are the WOT RPM ranges for engines made in 2006-2007 period ... Yours is is on the lower end, it should reach max 4600 or 4800 depending on the model version you have, and perhaps a touch above. My engine rev limit is 4600, at WOT it will continuously run around 4650. So, yes, it looks like your boat could be over propped, and the FH7 as suggested by Shep in the first thread might be a better match. I am not an expert, hopefully other will chime in to confirm. BTW, I have copied your email address and will be sending you mine shortly. You might want to edit out your addy from this public post so spammers/scammers cannot misuse it.
  4. From the album Cut and Paste

  5. That is a very real possibility ... F8's are aggressive props. On the other hand, your numbers, 27-30 mph @ 3000 - 3400 rpm, are within expected range. What are your max rpms and GPS speed at WOT?
  6. Following on your other post and combining with the ideas from this one ... Props: you checked the rear props and they are marked F8 with helical splines. Chances are that the props you have are FH, meaning F series with Helical spline. They are NOT XDP specific props that were modified. Two things to check ... first, check if the front props are also marked F8 (the number after is insignificant here) ... second, if the front and rear props match, check with VP authorized service marina how VP marks the FH props ... basically validate that you have correct model of props. While validating the prop model you can also check if the props are timed correctly. If not, you can time them yourself by removing and rotating the rear props only. More details here ... Drive trim: validate that the drives trim in (down) below leveled position. They should go in/down at least 5 to 10 degree below leveled position. Check with knowledgeable VP authorized marine the exact max angle of trim in for your drive. One could also look at the trim actuators and validate that the arms go in to their max position. If not, the trim position and limit sensors are not set correctly. Trim tabs: it is a heavy boat with very heavy stern, the trim tabs are necessary to keep the bow down and stern up while on plane, not just to get it on plane. The generic setting to start with would be drive trimmed to near level (neutral or slightly in) position and trim tabs around 3/4 in/down. Once on plaine you keep the trim tabs down and adjust them to level the boat bow to stern and laterally based on the wind/wave condition. Once you get the boat leveled in both directions using trim tabs, start finding the sweet spot for the drive trim. Do minute adjustments to the drive trim, in and out, and watch the rpms and listen to the sound of the powertrain. You will see the rpms climbing by 100 rpm or so, and the powertrain humming nicely when the drive is in the optimum position. The idea behind all this is ... use the trim tabs to lift the stern and keep it there, and the drive to propel the boat forward without wasting the propulsion force for lifting the stern. FWIW ... my optimum settings to start with, different boat but same principle, are: drive 1/8 out on gauge scale (which makes it more less leveled), and trim tabs 5/8 in/down. After reaching the plane position I keep adjusting the settings as outlined above.
  7. This is another possible cause to exclude. Do the drives go in/down beyond the leveled position? So many questions ...
  8. Does your boat have trim tabs installed? Do you use them? There was no mention of either in your original question, and they can make a huge difference in how the boat rides. FWIW, the "zero trim tabs" is at least a part of the problem, trimming the drive out/up will only make the bad plane position worse.
  9. The timing might not be critical but there is no downside in doing it. Things in nature like symmetry and order, the more order the less disturbance. My attempt to explain why ... when blades are coming from the opposite directions, water gets compressed by the blades. If both blades pass under the plate at the same time, there is less room for water to escape.
  10. The time is almost up! Just too heart wrenching to watch the damage being done and the impact on this nation. You all do realize that the country is in a constitutional crisis territory, if not there already, after the tramp pressers and tweets of this week?
  11. If trimming the drive in/down does not solve the problem, you should use, or have them installed and use, the trim tabs. It is a heavy boat with two engines, maybe a genset, large fuel tank, large water and waste tanks, three or more batteries, all in the aft part of the boat. Without the trim tabs deployed that would lift the stern and level the boat, your boat is pushing too much water under the bow and the stern hangs in the hole created by the bow with drives not fully submerged. I have a front row view on the Bateau Channnel on St Lawrence River and can tell you that every 5th express cruiser 30 feet or larger going thru the channel at cruising speed is not on a full plane. The bow is pointing too high and the swim platform is below water level because the stern is hanging over the hole created by planing plowing boat.
  12. These weeping holes in the bulkhead aft of the tank directing water from mid bilge to aft bilge are the problem on many Chaparral built boats. Pure and simple case of lousy workmanship that can result in loss of property, serious enjuries, and deaths. That weeping hole on my boat was partially and permanently blocked during the production process. The haphazard approach, unfinished rough surface and construction debris left by Chaparral production crew block the hole completely by the time we bought it. Since then I have redrilled the hole to make it bigger and refinished with gelcoat so the debris that still collect in mid bilge and float aft do not get stuck. Not a complete solution as the water still gets dammed by uneven surface behind the hole and beyond my reach. There is constant moisture under the fuel tank, but it does not sit in standing water at least. Take away from this unfortunate experience of so many Chaparral boat owners ... In addition to any marine survey, inspect the D.A.M.N. boat yourself from the top to very bottom before or after the purchase and pay attention to the tiny details like missing or blocked weeping hole, unsealed screws and bolts, unrepaired misdrilled holes, loose or disconnected hoses, and most important ... the environment the fuel tank sits in, as well as its fill and vent hoses, connections and fill port. BTW, if this sounds like unofficial CHAPARRAL BOATS indictment, it is ... and food for thought!
  13. In such case your boating waters require Mg anodes. I am still surprised by how quickly the drive corrosion set in in your fresh water. Al can and is being used with good results on many inland lakes and rivers, including Great Lakes and St Lawrence River. Like the OP, I had a scale on SS props and on the Mg anodes themselves, and a bit of corrosion on the drive after one season. That was remediate by switching to Al anodes. The various inland waters have different composition, so testing the anodes made from different but compatible metals might be necessary. Often, the dock mates already tested it and can advise.
  14. That rapid corrosion does not seem to be related to the choice of metal. This should not had happened even without any anodes in one summer. Have you guys considered other potential causes of rapid corrosion ... poor bonding installation on the boats, faulty shore power install on the boat, stray current or faulty electrical install where the boats were moored before and after sale?
  15. Al anodes are good for the whole range of water types, except the true ocean salt water and clean fresh water which is hard to find these days. Most surface fresh water is either a solution of various minerals and run offs, or brackish. The Al in the anodes is not really Al but a specifically designed alloy that protects aluminum drives and other metals on the boat. There are good posts elsewhere that provide links to more info about anode types and their use ... the one recent ... You are correct, the ACPS is an option, and offered regardless of the drive type I believe.