Richard W

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Richard W

  1. Get your engine serial number and go to the VP US site. Can't get you exact directions as they change it recently ... just look for engine database or documentation. Based on the S/N the site will show you your setup and all available documentation, some free some/most not. From my past experience ... what you are looking for is only available in print for a fee and and will be printed and shipped to you by a third party vendor. It will take a few days to a few weeks to get to you. The 4-color wiring diagrams might slow the process, anything else is black and white. Consider placing two separate orders.
  2. Yeah, sure ... either does fit your imaginary stack, just make sure you lube it first.
  3. I am sure why, so are the forum's admins ... your previous spam was removed, so will this one.
  4. Another crappy question, another spam ... reported.
  5. Also depends where and when you are planning to boat ... the flybridge can get cold and windy sometime during 3 season boating in northern parts of the continent, and then pretty unpleasant with no helm on the main deck. I our circumstances, I would rather have a scaled down secondary helm at stern for docking instead of a second helm on a flybridge that adds a lot to the overall cost and maintenance effort.
  6. Maybe ... are you going to do it for free or there is a service charge for it?
  7. As others also said, either near the ac panel, or near where the status lights are. But befor you tear out your boat, check or get an electrician to check the shore power line condition. The chance is, the device is showing the power line fault as it is supposed to.
  8. My newer 2016 F-150 is on +/- 10,000 miles oil change schedule. The computer makes the adjustments based on driving style, towing, etc and shows the percentage of oil life left. I am just over 15,000 miles and the oil life left is 25% ... this is after the first oil change was done at around 8,500 miles. Funny thing is that when, at the delivery, I asked the Ford service department about oil change intervals I was told 10,000 but then they still stuck a "5,000 miles next oil change" sticker during the oil change. Just go by factory schedule for cars, or seasonal SOP for boats.
  9. Chances are it is located behind the panel where the fault/okay indicator lights are. The galvanic isolator is a 120vac safety device. Is your shore/generator 120vac power ON? If not, it will show the fault.
  10. Sure that the prop must stop before changing the direction of its revolution. Other than that all else is subjective ... How quickly was one switching from F to R? Too fast ... Clunk! Were the engine idle RPMs as prescribed, 600-700 RPM? The shaft inside the drive is constantly moving, so too high idle RPMs ... Clunk! Last but not the least ... there is always a clunk when switching the gear, Merc or VP. It could be a faint one or a more pronounced clunk ... and this is the most subjective aspect. You might want somebody who knows the I/O boats to look and listen to get a second opinion on this.
  11. Sadly, no ... when I realize the extend of the damage on my way I send an email to the marina owner after I got home. The answer I got back was ... we didn't do it ... despite the fact that I was there watching when it happened and he himself had dropped the boat. As I said ... a jackass, not worthy of my time and aggravation nor my business. Luckily, the axle manufacturer (UFP/Dexter) supplied all three axles and shipped them free of charge as a goodwill gestures ... this is how you treat the customers to keep their business. What I had to do was to buy some tools like heavy duty breaker bar, large socket set, additional jacks and stands, all new brake lines and other related parts, and the tools to redo and replace the brake system ... circa $700-800 USD total out of my pocket, plus two weeks of my time to research, learn, then order the parts, and a week to do the actual work. Glad I did it all myself as I know the job is done right, and going forward it makes me less dependent on the jackasses out there. Also, I have discovered a few other hidden problems, like stripped lug nuts and bolts, courtesy of the service previously done on this trailer in Canada.
  12. No matter how one connects the extractor some/much of the old oil is not extracted. The extractor hose might get a bit farther/lower than the dipstick tube, therefore be more effective. The question is how to level a boat/engine to get most of the old oil out. @SST I would think that the extractor tube would/should be longer than a dipstick. The dipstick does not have to go to the bottom of the engin pan to show the top of the oil level. You might want to rig a longer tube and see how far it goes inside the dipstick tube.
  13. On my big block the vac extraction is even less effective. I can get out up to 7 quarts out of 9 quarts (8.5 L) total. One thing you can try to do is to level the boat/engine on trailer as much as possible, or tilt it toward the end of a dipstick tube if you know where it ends up inside the block. I don't know the answer to this question even for my engine. Would like to know it as well.
  14. State of the affairs last Fall, boat stuck on the broken trailer ... Wheel and fender detail ... Finally got the boat off the trailer in September this year, just before another Fall ... About to replace the first axle, note the asymmetrical axle brackets, brake line and its brackets is visible, a blue tape marks the center ... All three axles replaced and oriented the same way, the middle axle aligns with the center now ... All done and finished ... the wheel spacing looks much better now ... Some people and their actions the rest of us need to deal with!
  15. From the album Cut and Paste

  16. From the album Cut and Paste

  17. From the album Cut and Paste

  18. From the album Cut and Paste

  19. From the album Cut and Paste

  20. From the album Cut and Paste

  21. I think I have the answer or probable cause of not evenly spaced axles on my trailer. Some ideas expressed above were close to what I found out ... but first a bit of background why I've got into finding out. Last fall the marina that was lifting my boat from water, power washing the bottom, and setting it on a trailer dropped the boat, the bow, onto the trailer. Inept and lazy marina owner and operator decided to use double belt method instead of supporting the boat by block and jack from the bottom while removing the primary belt from under the boat ... he said, too much jacking, jackass. The secondary belt positioned too closely to the bow curve slipped and the boat had fallen down 10 or 12 inches onto a trailer that was not properly supported at the tongue. Again, the trailer's jack stand was not used, the trailer's tongue was resting too low on the old yard truck's hitch. Bottom line, the left front wheel torsion assembly sheered inside the axle and subsequently, the wheel traveled up and rested against the fender that got slightly damaged as well. I got home on five wheels somehow, braking was affected, and backing up and clearing a small hump at the head of our driveway was a real challenge as the broken wheel jammed against fender got stuck in crushed stone and I had to plow thru the hump. I did not have the time to repair the trailer then, the boat got winterized, wrapped and left on the property for winter. Only this summer I was able to get replacement axle, all three actually based on axle manufacturer (UFP/Dexter) advice, paint them, take trailer apart, replace axles, fix the fender, redo/replace brake lines, and ... oh that was fun ... bleed the brakes. All is well now, I finished all and tested the trailer today. While taking the trailer apart I noticed the axle mounting brackets are asymmetrical. The middle axle was positioned differently, kind of front to back, than the other two. There was nothing, not a crossbeam nor other obstruction preventing to orient the middle axle the same way. The boat's CG falls somewhere in the middle between front and back axles so it does not seem to be a reason for uneven axle spacing. The only reason I could second guess was ... the brackets for trailer's steel brake line were welded on the wrong side of the axle which had to be turned around for the brake line to be on the correct side. Go figure! Some pictures to illustrate the story ... coming soon ...
  22. Seized up vac pump?
  23. That is correct Denny. The term "bottom paint" is too generic. There are two different functions served by two very different types of "bottom paint": moisture control commonly called barrier coat, and anti-fouling paint that discourages marine growth. Often both types are applied as part of mult-layer coating system with the barrier coat being mandatory first coat if the ablative anti-fouling paint is going to be applied later.
  24. The retractable cleats do, without and with the drain tubes installed. The tubes, if installed, go to the bilge.