Richard W

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Everything posted by Richard W

  1. Got a good tip from a VP trained mechanic based on factory specs. The easiest way to time the VP duoprops: - notice that each prop has a type and model number stamped on a hub, - set the props such way that one prop marking is on 12 o'clock, another prop marking is on 6 o'clock, - basically a 180 degree offset. This also confirms that the VP douprop timing is a part of factory specification ... not just an urban legend.
  2. The timing might not be critical but there is no downside in doing it. Things in nature like symmetry and order, the more order the less disturbance. My attempt to explain why ... when blades are coming from the opposite directions, water gets compressed by the blades. If both blades pass under the plate at the same time, there is less room for water to escape.
  3. The time is almost up! Just too heart wrenching to watch the damage being done and the impact on this nation. You all do realize that the country is in a constitutional crisis territory, if not there already, after the tramp pressers and tweets of this week?
  4. If trimming the drive in/down does not solve the problem, you should use, or have them installed and use, the trim tabs. It is a heavy boat with two engines, maybe a genset, large fuel tank, large water and waste tanks, three or more batteries, all in the aft part of the boat. Without the trim tabs deployed that would lift the stern and level the boat, your boat is pushing too much water under the bow and the stern hangs in the hole created by the bow with drives not fully submerged. I have a front row view on the Bateau Channnel on St Lawrence River and can tell you that every 5th express cruiser 30 feet or larger going thru the channel at cruising speed is not on a full plane. The bow is pointing too high and the swim platform is below water level because the stern is hanging over the hole created by planing plowing boat.
  5. These weeping holes in the bulkhead aft of the tank directing water from mid bilge to aft bilge are the problem on many Chaparral built boats. Pure and simple case of lousy workmanship that can result in loss of property, serious enjuries, and deaths. That weeping hole on my boat was partially and permanently blocked during the production process. The haphazard approach, unfinished rough surface and construction debris left by Chaparral production crew block the hole completely by the time we bought it. Since then I have redrilled the hole to make it bigger and refinished with gelcoat so the debris that still collect in mid bilge and float aft do not get stuck. Not a complete solution as the water still gets dammed by uneven surface behind the hole and beyond my reach. There is constant moisture under the fuel tank, but it does not sit in standing water at least. Take away from this unfortunate experience of so many Chaparral boat owners ... In addition to any marine survey, inspect the D.A.M.N. boat yourself from the top to very bottom before or after the purchase and pay attention to the tiny details like missing or blocked weeping hole, unsealed screws and bolts, unrepaired misdrilled holes, loose or disconnected hoses, and most important ... the environment the fuel tank sits in, as well as its fill and vent hoses, connections and fill port. BTW, if this sounds like unofficial CHAPARRAL BOATS indictment, it is ... and food for thought!
  6. In such case your boating waters require Mg anodes. I am still surprised by how quickly the drive corrosion set in in your fresh water. Al can and is being used with good results on many inland lakes and rivers, including Great Lakes and St Lawrence River. Like the OP, I had a scale on SS props and on the Mg anodes themselves, and a bit of corrosion on the drive after one season. That was remediate by switching to Al anodes. The various inland waters have different composition, so testing the anodes made from different but compatible metals might be necessary. Often, the dock mates already tested it and can advise.
  7. That rapid corrosion does not seem to be related to the choice of metal. This should not had happened even without any anodes in one summer. Have you guys considered other potential causes of rapid corrosion ... poor bonding installation on the boats, faulty shore power install on the boat, stray current or faulty electrical install where the boats were moored before and after sale?
  8. Al anodes are good for the whole range of water types, except the true ocean salt water and clean fresh water which is hard to find these days. Most surface fresh water is either a solution of various minerals and run offs, or brackish. The Al in the anodes is not really Al but a specifically designed alloy that protects aluminum drives and other metals on the boat. There are good posts elsewhere that provide links to more info about anode types and their use ... the one recent ... You are correct, the ACPS is an option, and offered regardless of the drive type I believe.
  9. Same with the boat oil filter ... a smudge of the oil on filter seal ensures that you can take it off next time without it being stuck.
  10. Same experience with Mg anodes in my waters. Switched to Al anodes (all, drive and tabs) and never looked back. If you have a VP setup with ACPS, consider switching it OFF. It does nothing good outside of ocean like salt water. Could be the same with Mercathode system but I have no hands on experience with Merc systems.
  11. The hauler is responsible for the load/cargo to the extend of his/her professional responsibility: checking/securing the cargo, checking the the trailer if provided, hooking it up and driving the rig/cargo in safe manner. Any accidental things, big or small, be it a blown tire or a road chip, are accidents ... if big enough, call your insurance. Call them anyway and check if they cover your boat and trailer while it is being hauled by a third party. To minimize these pesky little accidents wrap the boat for transport from top to below the water line at least. Costs extra time, money and/or effort but you will not have to worry about or deal with these little things later ... plus the boat will arrive as clean as it was when departed. Here is what we did for transport ... It was a three day and 2500 mile trip and the boat arrived in the tip top shape.
  12. Inverter off the house battery or even off the bank of two will not power A/C for long. Shore power, generator, or running engine/alternator (?) are required for continuous A/C operation.
  13. They all do that if you rev the engine. Keep at or near idle rpm while in the reverse gear.
  14. I have not been looking specifically but I did not come accross one for the VP drive. Aren't the VP drives completely submerged? I know my entire VP drive is submerged when boat is at rest and nearly completely underwater or washed over by water when underway.
  15. Isn't the old and trusted fish and/or depth finder aka transducer a sonar? Yes, it is ... it uses bouncing sound wave to identify the targets. The links to the newest forward looking sonars from Garmin and Simrad below, some other brands offer similar products as well ... https://explore.garmin.com/en-US/panoptix/ http://www.simrad-yachting.com/en-GB/Products/Echosounders/Transducers/ForwardScan-Transducer-en-gb.aspx The link to older discussion ... http://forum.chaparralboats.com/index.php?/topic/28701-forward-facing-sonar-is-it-finally-here/ Plenty of demo videos on YouTube.
  16. The 20-30 feet of chain and 5:1 to 7:1 scope is expected for most anchors to hold well. Here is our Delta bringing back a bit of the bottom ... sea salad served. Once it started to drag it would not reset itself nor was I able to set it again until the ball of weeds was cleaned up ... a long serrated bread knife was invaluable in clearing this mess, an exciting job on a windy and rainy night. The Fortress does not collect the weeds same way, very little if any by the time it is brought to the surface. It can reset itself or you can set it again without the need to bring it out for cleaning.
  17. ... and what anchor you use to troll?
  18. This sums it up pretty well ... from "boomer" to "me" society to "me-millennial" majority that think they know everything because they can google it, no plans, no prep, just do it or not, we'll see. Can't wait to see the end results ... and the boomers need to blame themselves, that includes me ... but I digress ...
  19. Get them on the VHF radio (good luck) and negotiate a pass. Use the horn signals to negotiate a pass (good luck, you might see a bird in return). Or when safe, maneuver your boat onto a parallel cours to indicate your intension, increase speed and start passing carefully. Give them a wide berth, as wide as the conditions allow. I would still use the horn to get their attention and confirm my intension.
  20. +1 Fortress. Bottom weedy and muddy ... +2 Fortress, it cuts thru weeds and does not plug on them like Delta or other plow anchors do. Brings back much much less mud when pulled out, and the mud slides easily from anodized aluminum ... just dunk it a few times before bringing it on deck.
  21. Same goes for the sailboat in this case, and she did very well. That how it works on the water ... the other boat screws up and now it is your responsibility to avoid the collision. Making the decision early and decisively maneuvering behind the other bigger and less maneuverable boat/ship stern regardless of your status is a common practice.
  22. I knew what you meant, just sounded funny ... What's the name of this repellent? (edit: TERRO, got it after reading your other posts) I have used Home Defense MAX by ORTHO, only once. It works well and lasts for a few months but is as toxic and smelly as the one you described. Smells like a combinatation of heavy petroleum product and hospital used disinfectants ... even the neighbors on the next dock could smell it. Crazy stuff.
  23. LOL ... and people, for a day?!
  24. I have built a wooden stand on casters. Still, the limited access/height under the swim platform is a back breaking exerciser ... might try to add the a jack to the mix, or the right hoist which would be ideal. The limited access under the swim platform and around my boat will make it difficult to use unless I find one that is compact enough. Food for thought.
  25. It is really good point and call ... just the drive is so hard to remove and mount back to do the yearly inspection as a DIY job. The overhanging swim platform does not help at all ... a real challenge for me.