Rick480

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About Rick480

  • Birthday October 19

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lake of the Ozarks
  1. Same with me, they are standing in the corner of the garage.
  2. I have them, rarely use them, only to balance boat side to side. I would say unnecessary but ok to have. My boating is on a large lake that is mostly rough on weekends.
  3. I was recently told by a trusted marine mechanic that it is no longer recommended to run a fuel/oil cocktail through the engine when winterizing. The fuel evaporates leaving the oil to plug the fuel injectors. Causes more problems then it solves.
  4. Never paid a penny for winterization or dewinterization on mine. About 2 hours to change the oil and drive lube and winterize in the fall. Absolutely nothing to do but turn the key in the spring. If you pay to have it done, and you are paying a lot, then yes, 2 engines would approximately double the cost, probably a little less.
  5. Very nice! I have a 2005 with the same dash and the same issues around the screws and have also been looking for a solution.
  6. I had to replace my tach a couple years back, and my hour meter was in the tach. The new one had zero hours. Every time I get some service work done my shop reads the computer on the engine (Mercury) and prints the hours out on the invoice.
  7. I bought one about 4 years ago, never seemed to get around to installing it, its hanging in my shop. Last summer my drive failed and needed a 2500 deer rebuild, guess I should have installed the shower?
  8. Fixing/replacing it is a waste of time with a Mercruiser, it will fail again quick. Someone should make a replacement that works.
  9. My understanding is that it is illegal to change it over the water where I am. Even if it isn't, it would be irresponsible, since it is almost impossible to drain it and catch all the lube dripping from the drive.
  10. I'm in the same boat, just had some work done on my drive a couple weeks ago so all new fluid. I specifically asked the mechanic, and he said no need to change until next fall. Those that say it's an easy job must trailer their boats. For me it means taking the boat off the lift, taking it to a ramp, pulling it from the water, changing the fluid and then taking it back to the ramp and back to the lift. Very time consuming and very difficult for one person. Even more so if you don't own a trailer, or a truck to pull it, luckily I do. An oil change you can do on the lift. Not the drive lube.
  11. Mine did the same. It's expensive. Mechanic said it is pretty common.
  12. Jeez, where are you guys, the arctic, the best boating weather is yet to come.
  13. Down to $2.29 (marina 87 octane) on Lake of the Ozarks. I'm loving it. $1.78 on land.
  14. I had the same problem with my 2005 a couple years ago. I tried for a year to fix it using big washers with gasket material around them under the drain plug, etc. I finally gave up and had the engine pulled and the oil pan replaced. The old one was like a screen, you could see right thru it. Nothing short of replacement would have fixed it and it couldn't have been replaced without pulling the engine. By the way, the best way I found to "inspect" what was down there was to use a cell phone as a camera, hold it down under the engine and snap a bunch of pictures.
  15. I have had a Yamaha, a Polaris (no longer made) a Honda (no longer made) and several different Sea Doos. If I wanted a good dependable medium price, medium power PWC, I would buy Yamaha. Look at the rental fleets anywhere you go in Florida, Mexico, etc. They are almost 100% Yamaha. They look like they have been drug down a gravel road behind a truck and put back together with duct tape and the are still running. To me that says a lot.