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    Spokane, WA
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  1. Is this boat new to you? If so are you sure that your 110 AC panel is on? Is there a needle gauge on the panel that shows 110 volts? My panel has a master on/off switch for 110 and if that is off there is no shore power and that gauge is at 0. Don't mean to ask these dumb questions but if the boat is new to you this could be the issue?
  2. The default position is 110 volt shore power. So even if your battery switches are on it should be running 110. When you shut off 110 or unplug then it should automatically convert to 12v battery power. If it isn't doing those 2 things you most likely have a bad electrical board on the back of your fridge.
  3. One other thing to check is the routing of the cable inside the engine compartment. When I first bought my boat in 2010 I had one throttle that was very stiff. I asked them to change the cable before I took possession. The mechanic looked at it and said the routing of the cable was creating a kink. They rerouted and it has worked great ever since. My boat is totally a dry climate fresh water boat so corrosion is not too much of an issue. I would definitely trust the direction from Wingnut, just giving you something else to check.
  4. I had a problem with my Isotherm fridge and I called their customer service. They were very helpful. After talking with them about what the symptoms were they knew exactly what the problem was. In my case I did not have to buy a new fridge, just needed an electrical board that was a lot cheaper than a new unit. The removal of the fridge to get at the repair was not hard. I do not have the contact info but it should be available on line. You may need a new fridge but I would recommend you call the manufacturer first, might save you a ton of deer!
  5. I have changed all the cabin bulbs and love the LED's. Now it is on to the Nav Lights, cockpit courtesy, and the arch lights! Thanks for the info!
  6. Thanks Stimpy..........do you like them better than the original incandescent bulbs?
  7. Stimpy, Which ones on your list are for the two fixtures in the tower? Thanks for your help. Lew
  8. There is no problem leaving the antifreeze in the holding tank.
  9. I agree with what the others have said. These hulls work best at about 28 - 32 mph which is about 3100 to 3500 rpm. Anything less than that and the boat feels sluggish and starts to fall off plane. I also get my best fuel economy when cruising in that rpm/speed range.
  10. Oh oh, it is time to fess up! My first car was a 58 Rambler Ambassador. Big old boat of a car that only ran on seven of its eight cylinders. It was popular with some buddies though because it had fold down seats.........a needed accessory for high schoolers!
  11. Thanks Sean, that is perfect info! I have always used the wedged 2x4 method instead of putting it in gear, saves climbing in and out of the boat. Thanks again, much appreciated.
  12. Thanks Jeff I will try that.
  13. I must be blind as I cannot find the prop nut or reference to the socket needed to fit it on the Volvo site. Thanks for your response anyway!
  14. Can someone confirm that the prop nut size for Volvo Penta SX drives is 1 - 1/16th? My boat is in storage still and I want to be prepared to remove the props and grease the splines before launching this spring. Thanks!
  15. I would agree with a local shop doing it so it fits correctly. I have replaced mine once and will probably need to replace again in the next couple of years. Last round was about 3k using sunbrella. I suspect it will be 3-4k next time for the complete package; bimini, side curtains, windshield, and back drop. I have roll up sections in the backdrop and also the center of the windshield so you can get access to the stern and to the bow. Also helps with airflow on those days that are nice but still a little chilly so you want to keep the canvas up. Lew
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