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crqflier

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  1. crqflier

    New Boat Inspection

    Pretty basic stuff, but good to have a checklist: http://www.boatingmag.com/new-boat-inspection-checklist Plus some discussion from a couple years ago:
  2. crqflier

    Best site/method to sell?

    Here's my current listing. I feel like it answers all the questions, but welcome any thoughts. https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/boa/6051285351.html So after speaking with the chap dealer there are a few concerns, but the biggest is that I'm basically shut out of using my boat for the length of the contract - which is an exclusive contract for 180 days (not 90 as i was originally told). Different than looking at PopYachts (which i had never heard of, but researched based on the discussion on this thread) and other "virtual" brokers or selling myself - i can keep using the boat. To me, the whole value of PY is exposure - i still have to deal with meeting, showing, sea trialing, etc. So that's not the route for me. On the plus side, the chap dealer would not charge for storage during the listing period. Guess i'm surprised at the $350/month fee @Weekend At Bernie's. Seems like an odd disincentive for the dealer to sell - he's making money as your boat sits unsold. Is that at least carved out of the commission? At this point, if I can sell "easily" since it seems i'm past the onslaught of scammers, etc. then that's the best route. If it's not easy, i'll list with the chap dealer and not a virtual broker within the next 2-3 weeks.
  3. crqflier

    Used 2013 H20 sport?

    Given your needs and constraints I'd personally be looking for a nice 10 year old 210ssi with at least the 5.0 GXi or MPI - 5.7 even better but harder to find. Boats get small on the water and boys get big. I think youll outgrow the 19 with 4.3 in a year or 2. I'm glad we went 220SSi and would recommend to anyone, but your boat house would be extremely tight. You can find the 210 in your price range with the same hours. This is all if you want to stay chap. Good luck.
  4. crqflier

    Best site/method to sell?

    Thanks for the comments. I've got a pretty detailed listing on CL including 20 pics plus videos I uploaded on youtube - in action and walk arounds. Always make posts with the information i'd want to have as a buyer. As someone predicted, the scammers have tapered off a ton after the first several days listing. I contacted the closest chap dealer maybe 70 miles away today to talk about consignment. Seems pretty standard - 10%, 90 day commitment, they handle everything (financial, DMV, etc.) including sea trial if requested by the buyer - they are not on the water, and neither am I, so this is really attractive. Just not sure how much traffic they get.
  5. crqflier

    Best site/method to sell?

    ^ That sounds perfect. The broker I spoke with doesn't have a physical location locally AND wants exclusive for 180 days. All the marinas locally are mostly ocean focused - no chap dealers either. I might call some dealers up in the LA area and see what's up. Definitely more fun shopping than selling.
  6. crqflier

    Best site/method to sell?

    Yeah I've sold cars on CL no problem. Just sold my Jeep a few months ago - first caller came over and bought it. But it seems like the volume of scams, bots, and people offering to sell my boat is just a lot higher than what I've experienced in the past.
  7. crqflier

    Best site/method to sell?

    Thanks. Anyone with ebay boat experience? Seems pretty thin - not much activity. Probably just going to list on boattrader.
  8. crqflier

    Best site/method to sell?

    So we've decided to sell our 220 SSI. Sad about it, we love it, but the reality is we just don't use it enough. The question is - what's the best way to sell? I've listed on the local Craigslist and well, it's pretty sketchy. I've gotten random calls and emails. And one guy seems to be trying to scam me little by little. Do I list on eBay? What about boattrader vs. iBoats? Pros and cons? Other sites? Also, I've got a broker locally who offered to list and sell. He wants 180 days and recommended listing it several grand more than I think is market. The boat is stored indoors about 40 miles away, so not the most convenient thing to show, which makes the broker seem attractive. Thoughts? Who has sold on what sites? What works best? I'm thinking pull down my CL ad. Thanks.
  9. crqflier

    Another Advise on Engine replacement

    If you're still up in the air on this, I'll throw in my $0.02 as someone who was in your boat 4 years ago. You can find my sad a$$ story here: I'm super satisfied with my decision to buy a factory new (GM) long block from these guys. http://marinepowerusa.com I bought through the VP dealer (who is also an MP dealer) who did all the work. No problems at all. Great engine. Great install. Would do this over the factory reman, the cost was lower, came with full warranty. I've got pics of it installed, but to big to post.
  10. crqflier

    Symptoms indicating new manifold/risers needed? Or?

    Thanks Wingnut. Seems like the thermo is the next step unless someone else has some thoughts on going after the riser/manifolds. Sure would be great if it's a partially stuck/blocked thermo or a loose flush cap. If not, I'll pull the boat out and check for other air leaks.
  11. crqflier

    Symptoms indicating new manifold/risers needed? Or?

    Thanks Drew. I guess I was thrown off about the thermo by the fact that I could idle (pretty much indefinitely) without temps going crazy. Maybe that's a partially open thermo - enough to cool at idle but not enough at throttle. So the single sensor for temp is at the thermo housing - not the sensors on the risers or down at the block drain plugs? Makes sense, just didn't understand the other sensors. T-stat housing is above the water line, so I should be able to do this with boat in the water - guessing.
  12. crqflier

    Symptoms indicating new manifold/risers needed? Or?

    Thanks Pat. I should have replaced the thermo while I was up there yesterday - shop didn't have one - just to rule it out. Air entering the system seems like another place to look. I'm fairly sure the garden hose cap is firmly on, but I'll definitely check. I also read that I can test for other air introduction by flowing water through the garden hose connection and not turning on the engine - only water egress should be at the water intake on the outdrive. So I'll try that. Sounds like the right approach is some more testing and less expensive alternatives - just not easy since it's a minimum 5 hour round trip. I was just "hoping" to be equipped with all possible parts needs for when I head up for my "repair trip". Once I pull the boat back out, I wouldn't want to put it back in until the issue is resolved. Since I can't leave it up there (securely) unless it's in our slip, if the problem isn't resolved I'd need to tow down the mountain and find another storage spot. The mechanic at our marina is not a VP guy and suggested I take it somewhere with a VP guy (if I don't DIY).
  13. Our boat - 2004 220ssi with VP 5.7 Gi, SX outdrive. ~160 hours total time since new. 1 time in salt water 3 years ago (flushed afterwards). The rest all fresh water. I've read several dozen posts here and on other sites, so my apologies for another thread on the topic. Put the boat in the water this weekend for the first time this year and "thought" everything was good to go. Let it idle in the slip for 15 minutes - solid temp of ~170. Smooth throttle. Rev'd in neutral to 3000 rpm for a couple minutes. Steady temp. After taxiing out of the marina and slow speed area (5-7 minutes underway) and then going WOT to get up to cruise (25 mph), we settled in. About 5 minutes later, temps rise to ~200 -210. I shut the engine down immediately and call the lake patrol for a tow back to the marina. At that moment, water pump housing was cold, no leaks, riser/elbows warm, but could easily hold hands on them for as long as I cared to. Back at the marina, I start to trouble shoot. First thing is a new impeller. Old one going on 3rd season. Not "bad", no missing fins, some minor cracking at the base of a few fins. After install, idle for 10 minutes - solid temp (170), cold pump housing, cold hose to thermo housing, risers are easy to touch. Rev to 3000 rpm and temp begins to rise - shut down. Second - ensure temp sensor connections are firm (I believe that's what they are) on back of both risers, both sides of the block at the drains, and at the thermo housing. Go through same test routine. Same results. I notice that the port riser cools a bit under high rpm (more water flushing through?) and that it is definitely cooler to the touch than the starboard riser - though both are easily touchable (for as long as I care to touch) as I see the temp rise. Are the two risers typically the same temp? Seems like they should be. I don't have an IR thermometer, but there was definitely a difference. 2 questions: Does this sound like clogged manifolds/risers (or perhaps just the starboard)?How does the temp gauge work? Are all 5 of those sensors I described actually temp sensors? Or is the temp sensor somewhere else? Do they feed a common circuit that then takes the "highest" reading and that's what shows on the temp gauge? Or?I don't think it's the thermo - the engine idles no problem for extended periods and maintains 170-175 degrees - though I could easily replace it (which I didn't do yet). Clogged PS cooler maybe - read a post about that, but symptoms aren't an exact match? Our boat is 2.5 hours away, so I'm not really able to do any more trouble shooting. But from what I've read, 10 years is a fairly predictable replacement range for fresh water operation. I'm considering purchasing manifolds/risers and just "throwing parts at the problem" DIY - seems doable except for potentially rusted mounting bolts. The boat is up a 8000 foot mountain, so pulling it down to a VP mechanic and back up isn't trivial (or free), which adds to my thought of just replacing the risers/manifolds and seeing if the problem is solved. What would you do? Appreciate any thoughts.
  14. Our boat - 2004 220ssi with VP 5.7 Gi, SX outdrive. ~160 hours total time since new. 1 time in salt water 3 years ago (flushed afterwards). The rest all fresh water. I've read several dozen posts here and on other sites, so my apologies for another thread on the topic. Put the boat in the water this weekend for the first time this year and "thought" everything was good to go. Let it idle in the slip for 15 minutes - solid temp of ~170. Smooth throttle. Rev'd in neutral to 3000 rpm for a couple minutes. Steady temp. After taxiing out of the marina and slow speed area (5-7 minutes underway) and then going WOT to get up to cruise (25 mph), we settled in. About 5 minutes later, temps rise to ~200 -210. I shut the engine down immediately and call the lake patrol for a tow back to the marina. At that moment, water pump housing was cold, no leaks, riser/elbows warm, but could easily hold hands on them for as long as I cared to. Back at the marina, I start to trouble shoot. First thing is a new impeller. Old one going on 3rd season. Not "bad", no missing fins, some minor cracking at the base of a few fins. After install, idle for 10 minutes - solid temp (170), cold pump housing, cold hose to thermo housing, risers are easy to touch. Rev to 3000 rpm and temp begins to rise - shut down. Second - ensure temp sensor connections are firm (I believe that's what they are) on back of both risers, both sides of the block at the drains, and at the thermo housing. Go through same test routine. Same results. I notice that the port riser cools a bit under high rpm (more water flushing through?) and that it is definitely cooler to the touch than the starboard riser - though both are easily touchable (for as long as I care to touch) as I see the temp rise. Are the two risers typically the same temp? Seems like they should be. I don't have an IR thermometer, but there was definitely a difference. 2 questions: Does this sound like clogged manifolds/risers (or perhaps just the starboard)?How does the temp gauge work? Are all 5 of those sensors I described actually temp sensors? Or is the temp sensor somewhere else? Do they feed a common circuit that then takes the "highest" reading and that's what shows on the temp gauge? Or?I don't think it's the thermo - the engine idles no problem for extended periods and maintains 170-175 degrees - though I could easily replace it (which I didn't do yet). Clogged PS cooler maybe - read a post about that, but symptoms aren't an exact match? Our boat is 2.5 hours away, so I'm not really able to do any more trouble shooting. But from what I've read, 10 years is a fairly predictable replacement range for fresh water operation. I'm considering purchasing manifolds/risers and just "throwing parts at the problem" DIY - seems doable except for potentially rusted mounting bolts. The boat is up a 8000 foot mountain, so pulling it down to a VP mechanic and back up isn't trivial (or free), which adds to my thought of just replacing the risers/manifolds and seeing if the problem is solved. What would you do? Appreciate any thoughts.
  15. crqflier

    We have a spy on the inside.

    The windshield design of the current WT bow riders remind me of bayliner 195 windshields. Nothing like the curve of the 220 SSi windshield. I do like the stern side though of the WT - could make it slightly stonger looking like a Monterey or cobalt. With all that said though, don't listen to me - love my 220 SSi and won't be buying anything else anytime soon!
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