bob and betsy

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About bob and betsy

  • Birthday April 20

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Bay
  • Interests
    Boats and dirt bikes.

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  1. Splatter, Great to see and "hear" the excitement in your thread. Nothing like just stopping for a moment to share that excitement. Sometimes I'm just thinking mechanical or problem solving, forgetting about the experience. Thanks for sharing.
  2. Since you have easy access to the starter switch, pull out your vom and test each terminal on the switch to ensure you have 12v when turning the key. You may have power down to the engine but if the key switch isn't energized, it can't activate the lights, dash gauges, even the starter solenoid. Do you have a safety lanyard that's not making contact or one of the spade terminals came off with wave beating. Again, another hands on experience to share.
  3. Check to be sure the float in the outdrive tank isn't stuck down after it was emptied. Sometimes they bind up and stay down even after re-filling the outdrive oil.
  4. Besides the impeller, it's always good to pull the top unit and grease the u joint if not perm sealed. Replace fluid yearly and inspect magnets for shavings. When anchored, spot check the water around the outdrive for oily bubbles to potentially identify seal leaks. These units are pretty stout and with a little, good maintenance, you're set. Edit... One last addition is that once the bellows ages and cracks or the rear throttle cable starts to stick, it's probably a good time to change out both in addition to other items above.
  5. I see no answers yet so I'll jump in and just say if the mfg included a dash gps, then it should have come ready to use! No extra add surprises, etc. After buying the boat, I'd expect the dealer to jump thru hoops to solve these simple type issues. Hope you're calling the correct customer service line as again, to not hear back yet is crazy. Stay strong on these guys. Let us know how it's resolved.
  6. Unplug your main round connector on the top left side(#50 in shep's diagram). It's usually held in place with a stainless hose clamp. Clean the terminals with the battery disconnected and add a little dielectric grease to the terminals. Plug in and out several times to ensure good contact, re-energize and I think you'll be set. Its the old " guess how I know."
  7. Dennis, Now that's just wrong! Interesting fact however. The outward appearance of the boat may help understand any abuse, from scratches, dock dings, discolored vinyl, etc. Most of those rentals don't have trailers. Something else to consider. Ask for maintenance records if really serious. Water pump impeller replacement schedule, etc.
  8. Has the oil been full and fresh? If deep thumping noise, it could be worst case, crankcase rod knock. If pinging, maybe pre ignition timing issue, or maybe a u joint knock, needing zerk grease. Ping preignition or outdrive most likely.
  9. Ben, Been away for a while and just following up on this thread. I've been away due to leukemia recovery and glad the Relay system worked for you too. To Wingnuts point, I'm not sure if they're marine certified but I know they are housed in a fairly tight sealed box. I can't imagine there being an issue but point well taken. And to "take a hiketour" I'd recommend this method rather than the manual method. Those tops are so darn heavy.
  10. Yes indeed. Most spindles are welded to a plate. Most axles have a plate welded on the end so replacing a spindle usually consists of four nuts and bolts. Sounds like yours, predates mfg runs where changing out parts are the norm.
  11. Sounds like just maybe the float is stuck at the top position. If one had to be fixed due to it sinking, no reason to think it could stick at the top. Did it start just after filling the fuel tank full?
  12. Good point but it really depends on how the brake assembly is built. If the adjustment wheel is identical on both sides, it will be the same direction for both. If you look at new assemblies, that's the way they're built. If one side, the wheel assembly is reversed, then one side is up, one side down. Here's a link showing the identical set up both left and right. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/etrailer/AKFBBRK-35.html Many new backing plates now have two rubber grommet access holes just in case it's assembled as noted in the latter example for future access. Really, the only right way as stated above, is to raise the brake wheel off the ground without any surge pressure and adjust and spin. Won't take long to figure out. I like the idea to use a sharpie on the backing plate for future reference. I use the same approach when regreasing bearings, listing the date on the hub. That idea that I "just did them" Two months ago becomes a reality check when it was two years ago.
  13. SST, the "grommet" you're referring to is really a zerk fitting. If you weren't concerned about the bearings, you didn't need to remove the Bearing Buddy, just unscrew the zerk and replace it. Comes off very easy. Sounds like it wouldn't accept grease after it was packed inside. Now it sounds like the bearings need inspection and probably replacement. I now carry a Harbor Freight long breaker bar for tough lugs. I always use either lithium grease on the lug nuts or anti seize to ensure the lugs don't lockup. My tire guy has used lithium grease for years and swears too it. Replacement brake assemblies and bearing are pretty consistent on boat trailers. I've always used Dexter parts without issue. Bearing Buddy sized diameters can help determine replacement parts being 1.78, 1.98, 2.44 or 2.78 diameter or the like. From under the back side, with the proper tool or small bladed screwdriver, turning the adj wheel down will loosen the brake assembly.
  14. With my 19.6' Wellcraft, alpha one with the 4.3 v6, 4 bbl 210 hp, I use a 19 pitch for runabout and a 17 pitch for ski or wakeboard towing. Top speed with 17 is about 38 mph, 19 pitch runs at 45 unloaded. My engine rpm max is about 4,600 tops. Hope this helps as I would expect the 20 pitch to be just a little sluggish.