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Baum's aweigh

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Everything posted by Baum's aweigh

  1. Your GPS is correct. Speedo is never right on.
  2. I love fuzzy math. Firstly, I never mentioned HP as a referenced to size of the tab. I was referring to prop rotation speeds and the movement of the boat through the water. A 30 hp motor is not 3 times larger than a 10 HP motor so the tab is relative to the size of the area for any particular motor. there is not denying that prop rotation effects steering pressure. That pressure is mitigated by hydraulic or power assisted steering but the pressure is still there regardless. Therefore, if there is no counter force to the effects of prop rotation, i.e. Duo Prop, or tab, then when push
  3. Cyclops, IMO as speed increases, prop rotation increases as well. When just idling along, very little force is exerted but increases steadily as prop rotation speed increases. On boat's that I have owned or driven it seemed to me that a properly set tab did the job throughout the speed range. I also see them installed where they have no angle at all. I'm not sure why one would do that, unless it was just there as a sacrificial anode.
  4. I have noticed that many dealers do not put on the anode trim tab on the under side of the cavitation plate. The purpose of the tab is to counteract to force of the prop rotation causing a pull in the steering. On older cable steering units, they were an absolute necessity. I still feel they are necessity on a larger motor with standard Hydraulic steering. Adding that piece would even out the tension but it would overall not lessen the amount of effort to steer the boat.
  5. Glad to hear all is well. I missed your never ending curiosity. It gave me a chance to use my brain.
  6. Three things can cause what you are experiencing: 1. Over propped- too much pitch for the power to weight ration causing cavitation (prop looses it bite in the water) 2. Over weight (not you) the boat - water trapped in bilge, too much personal stuff, 3. Excesseive drag caused by fouled bottom or damage prop etc. I have a slightly (10") smaller boat but it only has 200 hp where you have 270 hp. I run a four blade aluminum 19 in pitch and have no problem with a hole shot, even with a load of people in the boat. I agree with brick. Check out yo
  7. Take it back and get another one. Made in China, cheap stuff with expensive replacement parts. We wanted cheap stuff, we now have cheap stuff. The old adage "we get what we pay for" really applies here!
  8. Having grown up in Florida and being exposed to several tropical storms and hurricanes, I know already that the West Coast area will be or is experiencing high tides along with excessive rain and strong winds. As the impending storm crosses over the state and follows it's projected path, those of you on the upper East Coast, i.e. Jacksonville, St. Augustine etc. will most likely experience the opposite effect, still lots of rain, but you should experience extremely low tides if the center of the storm passes North of you. Needless to say, for those of you with boats in the water, it will
  9. This Volvo drive configuration has been out now for a few years. Chap is the last to jump into that design. That prop is no closer to the stern than a standard tow boat drive or V Drive. Like a standard outdrive, you can tilt it back, but in this case it pulls the stern down deeper. As for prop exposure, IMHO it is not more exposed than any inboard wake boat. I test drove one. The control for docking and maneuvering is unreal. I don't know what the new chap costs, but for those people that wake surf, it's all about the wake. They will drop 150 big herds of deer for a conventional mast
  10. Your sending unit is probably working fine. You have several issues to address. First, do check all wiring to ensure a good ground from the gauge as well as the wire coming from the sending unit. The sending unit operates on float arm much like the arm inside your house commode. When installed, one can position the swing of the float arm and adjust the length of the arm to ensure that it makes a full swing from the top to the bottom of your tank. The length is important because if the arm isn't pointing straight down when you are low on fuel, then you will show fuel in the tank which isn'
  11. On my previous vehicle, I didn't have a camera. I found a product called "I Ball". It consisted of a magnetic mounted camera that you put on the back of your vehicle. It sends a wifi image to a receiver monitor that you plug into your 12 volt dash outlet. It worked great for lining up with the hitch. The camera is battery operated and will run for about 1 hours on two double a batteries. It lasted about 3 years before the monitor died. it costs about 100 dear. There are other similar devices on the market. The only objection I had was it's signal quality could be diminished with inte
  12. I believe that if you use your boat more often, then you get better longevity out of your motor than if it sits around collecting moisture, condensation and lack of lubrication of certain parts. That's just my opinion but anyone that has ever owned an old car that just sits around know what I'm talking about.
  13. You bring a new girlfriend with you.
  14. Bernie, I have boated in that area. Do you dock at the city marina and walk across the street or do you just laze around or raft up and listen/watch on local TV?
  15. I have on a couple occasions, pulled a boat along side of me with lots of bumpers, going very slowly and in very calm water. But it wasn't very far, and I used long spring lines to both boats so avoid over stressing a cleat. It's not the best way but if you're careful it can be done. Never attempt in any kind of chop are areas subjected to larger waves/wakes. At one time I used to carry a towing harness that was made up of two galvanized spring clips, thimbled and spliced with 1/2' nylon. In the center of the bridle was a bowline in a bight (look that one up) and one float on each si
  16. Buy it with a contingency for a satisfactory sea trial. Put as little cash down as you have to.
  17. This topic brings up more questions and differences of opinion than I would have thought. Out of curiosity I looked at some other forums that also discuss this issue. Their a many variables that need to be considered. As you pointed out, cleats need/have backing plates, and it is fair to assume that a larger boat would have thicker glass where needed. But some discussions lead to the type of cleat. My little boat has pop-up cleats. I doubt that they are as strong as a conventional cleat since there is extra hardware involved in the pop-up mechanism. Some threads here have discussed
  18. Joey, Your in the towing biz. I would think that you have experienced a poorly fastened cleat. I have seen some really stupid things such as people towing with twisted nylon (rubber bands). When the tube takes a dive, it puts a lot of sideways stress on a cleat. Over time, that stress can work the bolts loose until the nuts back off. I have also seen cleats installed with no backing plates. Obviously, the transom at the towing eyes (they are called that for a reason) is much thicker than deck mounted cleats. If you put a bridle, as someone mentioned above attached to bo
  19. Cleats are not meant for towing. If you do that and it pops loose, someone could get hurt. You need to use your stern transom eyes for that.
  20. What kind of warning do you get. Is it a beep or tone from under your dash or do actually have an alarm on your fuel tank. Are you sure you are not confusing low fuel in the tank from low fuel pressure alarm.
  21. Your shop is right. Before you spend big deer chasing a potential solution, go with the known. If your problem seems to be getting worse, but the engine seems to run well, then my first guess would be junk on the bottom.
  22. Baum's aweigh


    that's a face only a muther could love!
  23. Baum's aweigh


    Usually, you can hear a bearing failing. It makes a whirring noise that if left unattended very long, will fail. It may or may not be linked to vibration. Most vibrations are cause be prop damage, dings, bends etc. I suppose that you would get a gimble bearing vibration if it was really worn out.
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