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About Boatman609

  • Birthday 12/02/1945

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    Beverly, NJ

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  1. For me, it is the Atlantic City boat show. Februrary 28th to March 4th.
  2. If you want more power, but want to stay with a small block, a 383 stroker motor should allow you to bolt all of the accessories on with no problems. Like already said, it is a good time to replace exhaust manifolds and if you stay with a carburetor it would make sense to go to a 4 barrel. I'm curious what RPMs you were getting out of the old motor at wide open throttle. Sounds like a nice project.
  3. Nice informative article. Thanks
  4. This is a no start situation for a Volvo. I don't know it works on a Mercruiser. The situation was no nothing from the solenoid or starter. Did the idiot checks. For anyone that runs into this problem I have some helpful information - First, engine won't start due to trim error or trim out of acceptable range - you can perform a crank shaft override - to do this, turn the key to the start position and hold for 5-6 seconds. This will override the error and start the engine. Worked for me - It might work on Mercs It saved me one night I was out to dinner at a local marina.
  5. The latest wiring diagram I found was for 1999. It shows a 20 amp fuse or breaker in the same location as the other fuses/breakers. Fed through a red wire. Hope that helps.
  6. Theses may help. The are from the info section of this forum. First one is 93-94. Second one is for 1998 The breaker for the water pump should be on the dc panel.
  7. Thanks for the follow up.
  8. While the boat is on the trailer design and mount an indicator that mounts to the winch stand (either bolted or magnetic) that comes in contact with the bow when it is winched up tight. This would allow you to drive it on and not have to stop to check how far you are away from the bow stop. Same idea as a ball hanging on a string from the ceiling in the garage so you don't go too far. You can spray the bunks with soapy water so it will slide easier on them. An electric winch with a wireless remote also comes in VERY handy.
  9. My first test if I thought it was a fuel problem would be to attach an external tank and test it with that in place. This eliminates a potion of the fuel delivery system. I would also have a timing light attached to one of the plug wires and when it starts to "fall off" watch to see if there is a fluctuation in the spark delivery. What is your tachometer telling you? What are the RPM's at 48 MPH and does it go up and then drop down when you give it throttle beyond 48 MPH? If you want to run fuel injector/ carburetor cleaner through the system, use the external tank to run a higher concentration through it.
  10. Great, thanks for the update.
  11. The torque specs for the manifold is 48 ft/lbs. The riser spec is 38 ft/lbs. Do them in two steps if installing them, about half torque and then full torque and work from the center out on the manifold and crosswise on the riser. Hope that helps.
  12. Thanks for those answers about looking for debris on both items. That information should help a lot of people start their trouble shooting with this problem.
  13. Thanks for the follow up. Good to know it was an easy fix.
  14. So ruling out a spun hub, is there any "simple" way of testing the cone clutch or the engine coupler without pulling the drive or the engine?
  15. I have never seen a Mercruiser to Mopar conversion. That sounds interesting. Just remember and Alpha one is only good for about 300 hp. A Bravo one is good for about 400 hp. Me being a Chevy guy would go for a 383 stroker for the extra horse power all the measurements would be as original. I agree with soldier4402. Don't do this project to make money. Do this project because you enjoy the look of the boat and want to save it from the boat grave yard. I know this from a wooden boat project I have going. Best of luck with it and keep us informed of the progress.