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    Chesapeake, VA

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  1. Hatchman

    It Finally Happened & Wasn't My Fault

    Happens to or will happen to all of us. I disagree with OP's "wasn't my fault" claim in the subject. Even if someone took it out for you, it is still your responsibility to check it before going in the water every time. I just assume the plug is out every time a boat goes in the water, that way I check it every time.
  2. Hatchman

    Sold the boat

    Thank you for the info. When I get back in the market, will look you up.
  3. Hatchman

    Sold the boat

    Thank you, All, for the kind words, and it has been an honor to serve. This has been by far my favorite boating forum and I will stop in from time to time. Chaparral has me sold on quality, so I will definitely look at 310s when we get ready for another. I can't say it was one of my happiest days, but after spending thousands on repair items including the second set of manifolds and risers in three years ("green leaker" gaskets failed), I was relieved at having the risk of future repair costs removed. Yes, the new owner got really lucky with this boat. It's had tons of new parts in the past year and runs great, as it should. Everyone at the marina told him it was the cleanest boat on the market and how well I've taken care of it (flushing/washing/waxing/cleaning after each use). I've been fielding calls from him about using the inverter and 4 batteries, and he seems pretty happy with it. Thanks again for all the advice over the years, and hope to see you out on the water!
  4. Hatchman

    Sold the boat

    Hello, All, Just letting you know, sold the boat to a happy new owner. I will be retiring from the military and transitioning to a new job. The Admiral and I wanted to free up some money for our upcoming house move and reduce the risk of future repair costs. Not sure exactly where we will be moving to, so wanted to sell the boat at the height of the boating season as opposed to the dead of the winter when I retire. Really enjoyed the 260 Sig, and looking to get a 310 in the future, but right now it makes sense to sell and reduce the pain/risk of moving houses, jobs, and boat, especially since I don't have a truck or trailer to move the boat with. And, as you all know, boating is expensive. We have put out about $7,000 in storage fees, insurance, towing insurance, and repairs (manifolds, risers, heads rebuild, valve job, fuel pump, etc), since last November, so selling the boat has definitely helped out in relieving the stress of future repairs out of the budget. Enjoy your boats while you have them, and while they are running. Hatch
  5. Hatchman

    Long story: Don't cheap out on gaskets.

    I believe it would. That torque sensor is pretty low on the engine block, and I believe it is below the water line, therefore even if we shut the engine off, water should have still come in, but at a much reduced rate as it would have to get by the impeller in the raw sea water pump. When the impeller is not moving and the pump casing is in good condition (not worn down), then it should be a descent seal and not let water by. Yes, pretty scary. Good thing I had two more bilge pumps. So another lesson, test your bilge pump floats.
  6. Hatchman

    Long story: Don't cheap out on gaskets.

    Thanks! Well, the new manifolds, risers, gaskets, re-worked heads, adjusted valves, and all did the trick! 180-185 psi across the board and boat runs great! Took it out and blew out the knock sensor from the port side of the engine. Boat starting running rough and a little hesitation with throttle changes, then boat began to perform really sluggishly as the bilge began to fill with water from the hole the "knocked out knock sensor" left in the side of the engine in the raw water cooling path. Oh, and the aft/main bilge pump failed to come on because some trash built up in the float. I open the engine hatch, bilge is filling with water. Look over the side, the bilge pump is NOT spitting anything out. I flip the switch, still don't see anything spitting out because the bilge thru-hull was under water by this point. Anyway, made it back to the Marina and a new knock sensor and all was fine. It seems there are only a few mm of threads holding those things on. Might have gotten "knocked" during the head install, or maybe just corrosion and worked loose, it is right next to the winter water draining plug. And then, the drive trim starting doing an "un-commanded tilt full down" thing. Must have gotten a little water in the trim switch control line connector, because it loved go full down, no matter what you did with the switch. Got it dried out and that was better. Washed down the entire engine bay, cleaned up all the electrics that could have gotten exposed to salt water, sprayed everything down with CorrosionX that was affected with salt water. Boats are so much fun.
  7. Hatchman

    Long story: Don't cheap out on gaskets.

    Good point on down time and loosing time on the water. Here it is mid July and thanks to the "green leakers", I have yet to take the boat out... and the thousand$ keep adding up...
  8. Hatchman

    Mercruiser 496 impeller change - now lower pressure

    Before the impeller change: .1psi at idle, 2.1 psi at 2000 rpm, shut it down. After the impeller change: ~.3 at idle, around 4 psi at 2000 rpm with a screeching high temp alarm and smoke coming of the paint on the risers After SS plates and another impeller: 3.7 psi at idle, 11psi at 2000 rpm, and haven't had a problem in over a year.
  9. Hatchman

    Long story: Don't cheap out on gaskets.

    Thanks for the input, Chewey. Looked at the old green gaskets, no indication of any gasket sealer. I think using a good gasket sealer may have helped prevent leakage. Also, everyone with the green gaskets, recommend check and see if you have rust coming out on the outside edges. If you do, good chance the mating surface and water jackets are rusting on the inside as well. I had a little rust around the outside, but thought it would be fine and had a good seal inside.... ~$4000 mistake.
  10. Hatchman

    Mercruiser 496 impeller change - now lower pressure

    Had the same problem on a 496 Merc. Low water pressure, so swapped out the impeller. Old impeller was definitely bad, but scouring seemed ok on the pump housing. Still had low water pressure and overheating. Put in the stainless steel end plate kits and all was well. Seems it doesn't take much scouring to get the leak by. I would never buy a brass pump again, stainless steel for the time/reliability/cost factor. Doesn't take much sand to wear brass away.
  11. Hatchman

    Long story: Don't cheap out on gaskets.

    I had it done by the Marina as part of the boat purchase deal. Marina gave me free labor if I paid for the parts. Owner said the old manifolds and risers had not failed yet, so he would not help cover the cost. There was a bunch of other stuff they were replacing at the sellers expense (thermostat, battery, temp sensors, raw water pump, etc) so I just let them do the manifolds/risers as well. They had already pulled them for inspection, so pretty easy just to slap new ones back on, hence why they offered free labor. Marina provided free labor to get the deal going, so long story short, I paid for the parts and they installed them for free... for what good that did. So, I don't know if the used Permatex or a torque wrench. My guess is no and no.
  12. Long story here, so sorry in advance for the novel. I'll try and just give the key points. Bought boat (signature) Feb 2012, had NEW VP manifolds, risers, and hardware installed as part of the deal. Compression check was good. Noticed they installed the cheap, green, paper Sierra gaskets in between the manifolds and risers,not the metal Volvo Penta recommended ones, but thought they would be "good enough". Three years later (boat has 80 "new" hours since purchase, 250 total), get a compression check and two cylinders are high (210 in #3) and one is real low (140 in #6). Not good. Did a carbon clean (Seafoam) and boat runs smoother and new compression check is much better, but #3 cylinder is still 210 and #6 cylinder is still 160... Still not good. Did a leak down check, #6 exhaust valve is leaking like a sieve. Not good. Off come the heads. A little water in cylinder number three. Really Not good. (no kidding right?) The water in cylinder three displaced some air, causing the high readings. Luckily, block/sleeves/pistons seem fine, no rust on the block, no scoring, seems to have caught it one engine start from hydro locking/cracking a rod/ventilating the block/cracking a piston/enter "catastrophic engine failure" here. Heads actually don't look too bad, little rust on the middle (3-6) valves. Going to get them reworked/pressure tested at a good head shop here in town. Also installing brand new manifolds and risers (again), using the VP recommended metal gaskets this time. Long story short, those two cheap/crappy green paper Sierra gaskets leaked in between the exhaust port and water jackets between risers and manifolds, and the water dripped down in the heads, corroding the exhaust valves, and in the end, putting some water down the cylinder. So don't cheap out on gaskets! I am pretty good about preventive maintenance, always flush after every use, and always winterize, got nice new manifolds and risers when I bought the boat, etc. Lucky to catch it in time. Should be good to go after several thousand dollars... all for a two bad gaskets.
  13. Wireless Bluetooth adapter for the radio. Great for taking turns and wirelessly streaming music from cell phones. Underwater lighting Cockpit LEDs new speakers
  14. Hatchman

    High pitched sound coming from engine compartment

    My money is on the fuel pump, which means "break out another thousand" (BOAT). Mine squealed on and off for a couple years before I finally got a new one, and the paint inside... yes, they PAINT the inside, was peeling off and stopping up screens downstream. Great design. No wonder one seller on eBay has sold over a thousand of these things. Planned failure by Volvo?
  15. Hatchman

    Carpet Backing Repair

    Used Fiber-Lok rug backing off of Amazon as well. I'm on my third coat on some pieces of carpet. Also, one time I ordered, the product/latex was already hard, like a giant ball of latex. Then again, I did not scrape off all the old latex/rug backing first, which seems to be key. If you just coat over the loose/crumbly stuff, you may end up re-applying every year, like me. The lazy will be punished.