alancs68

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About alancs68

  1. I just pulled my boat and will be touching up the outdrive where the paint has peeled away. I touch it up every rear with mercruiser black in the rattle can. I saw a new spray paint called spraymax. It is a two part solvent based epoxy that comes in a spray can. You have to activate it and then have two hours to use it. Does anyone have any experience with this product? I am thinking about giving it a try and painting the entire drive. I would really like to find something more durable than the mercruiser stuff without having to fool around with a spray gun.
  2. Is your anchor locker self draining? On my 230 it is not, and I accumulate a lot of rainwater in my bilge that enters through the anchor hatch. Because of the angle my boat sits in the water some residual water stays in the forward section and after running for a while it will drain back into the bilge. Originally I thought I had a bellows leak, but no water was coming through the transom assembly. If you want to check yourself reach your hand back into the area where the drive shaft comes through the transom and see if you feel any water.
  3. Hello Andreas I just saw your post. I was in Worms in April and was wondering if there was much pleasure boating on the Rhine. I certainly saw what you meant about the barge traffic. Viel spass in diesem sommer.
  4. I have read about the various chart plotters available for the iPad/iPhone and just downloaded Navionics to my iPad2 3G. I had the chance to use it for a while on the lake yesterday and while I like the detailed map I am concerned about one issue. It does not appear to have a course up map display, only north up. To those of you who have experience with Navionics is this correct? I find it much easier to follow a course or track when displayed course up. I had planned to use it when we boated in unfamiliar water or when we were out at night, which is really not that often. I didn't want to invest in a dedicated chart plotter. I find the display on my iPhone a bit small for my liking. From what I have read, Navionics does have course up functionality on the iPhone, but no the iPad? Go figure. Does anyone have experience with Garmin Bluechart or iNavx? Just curious about everyone's experience.
  5. Next month we are heading to Destin, FL for the week and we will be taking the boat with us. This will be the first time in 11 years that I have had it in salt water. It will be in a slip for a week. It is equipped with a Mercathode system and magnesium anodes. I hear magnesium is far to reactive for salt water. Will I need to change them or is one week not long enough to worry about? Anything else I will need to do other than a good engine flush and washdown after we get back?
  6. Not sure if the style is the same but I have an "L" that I took off my 01 230.
  7. My neighbor has your exact boat and I have an 01 230 SSi and we both have blisters in the same spot as you do. He keeps his on the trailer and mine spends 6 months a year in the water. I have been told its cosmetic and not really worth fixing. I keep an eye on mine and they have not become larger or more numerous over the last several years.
  8. If it really bugs you do what I did and use an epoxy putty like JB Weld to build up the damaged areas, sand it smooth, prime and repaint. Mine was a lot worse than yours and it looked new after I was finished.
  9. I am upgrading my stereo to a Clarion M502 along with the MW3 wired remote. I ordered the remote from the dealer that is made to fit the dashboard cutout where the old JVC unit resides. I went to install it today and I ran into a unexpected problem The new remote is thicker than the old one and the mounting screws in the dash are too short. The screws are two posts that are embedded in the back of the dash itself, and when I put the new remote in the screws did not protrude out the back, so there was nothing the screw the nuts onto to fasten it in place. Has anyone else whose installed a dealer supplied MW3 remote run into this? I am scratching my head trying to come up with some kind of work-around to this problem.
  10. I just replaced the letters on my 2001 230 SSi. I am not sure if the style is the same as the 1996 models. While most of the letters were damaged during removal you are welcome to any of the following that I have left: H (2) R (2) C (2) L (1) If you want to replace them all I just put on the new letter style used on the H2O models. I ordered them from the dealer for 75 deer and they look nice. The H2O letters are smaller and fit the gel coat stripe on my older model.
  11. I just ordered the Clarion 502 as well with the MW3 remote from the Chap dealer. How hard was it to run your cable between the remote and stereo? My unit is in the head on my 230 and what wondering if the wiring going to the dash went around the stern of the boat or around the bow?
  12. Should have done a little more searching before I posted. Also my original unit is a JVC with the JVC remote on the dash. It looks like a lot of people are recommending the Clarion CDM6 with the MW3 remote. Is the remote from the Chaparral dealer the only one that will fit the dash cutout? It looks like I will need to run a new cable between the remote and the unit as well. How difficult is this? Let me know if anyone out there has made this upgrade and if you were pleased with the results.
  13. My boat has the original stereo that came from the factory. I believe it is a JBL unit. I want to upgrade to a new radio and remote and wanted to see if there is a unit that would be a drop in replacement, or at least have minimum of wiring necessary. I want a dash remote that has an LED display and the ability to accept input from an iPod. I heard that Clarion makes a unit, but I wasn't sure if the remote was the same size as the original. Let me know if anyone out there has upgraded recently and if so with what.
  14. Thanks for the advice. I found a piece of the shutter in the exhaust passage when I pulled the drive, so I will make sure to check the y pipe and bellow thoroughly.
  15. I need to replace the exhaust shutters on my Mercruiser 5.7 EFI. Will I need to pull the risers in order to do this? I wasn't sure if I would need to pull them in order to get enough room and leverage to work the exhaust hoses off. I have heard they can be a bear to work loose? Is it possible to just slide the hose up on the exhaust tube to access the shutters?