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About Chap243

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  • Birthday 12/03/1960

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    Mooresville, IN

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  1. I`ve had them on my last two boat trailers, they can be a godsend when loading a boat. Mine have both been the curved aluminum with the PVC post slipped down over that. My current trailer came stock with them, for my last trailer, I purchased them off ebay. They just U bolted to the existing trailer frame. Both my trailers have been aluminum, if your trailer is steel, not sure how the dissimilar metals could react.
  2. The VP 380 is more than enough motor for that boat, unless you are contest racing it.
  3. Yes, you need to do that annually. Flushes out any contaminants and to make sure no water has intruded.
  4. Are you boating in fresh or salt and do you slip your boat or trailer? I would avoid anti fouling the drive unless you slip in salt water.
  5. Can't contribute much to the hull re-paint as I haven't done that yet, will do this spring. But the outdrive refinishing is something that I've done several times. I'd pull the drive to do it if you haven't already. Easy to do and gives you the chance to check bellows and ujoints. From there your prep is going to depend on the current condition of the existing paint. If not bad you can just lightly sand and repaint with VP SX silver. If you have corrosion, you will need to sand down to bare metal. Do not use a wire brush, unless it is brass. If you get down to bare metal you will need to prime first. Use zinc chromate primer, then paint over. I like topping my paint off with a clear coat for a real deep glossy appearance.
  6. I don't have them on mine, I've thought about adding them throughout the years, but honestly never felt it was a must have. Just never had a problem getting up on plane. Now, I'm a lake boater and don't see a lot of rough water either. Also don't like the thought of drilling holes below the waterline.
  7. There are a couple ways to pickle an engine. You can fill your new fuel filter with two cycle oil, screw back on and run for 10-15 minutes. Your tanks fuel will mix with the two cycle oil and pass into the engine. The other way is to pull the fuel line from the fuel pump, hook up a short fuel line, and run the engine off a two cycle "weed eater or chainsaw" gas can of two cycle gas. If you don't run in salt and don't have a reason to believe there is a problem, I would not remove the exhaust manifold.
  8. You might remind us of what engine and drive you have. While the process is similar there are a few nuances to making it easier for each brand of engine. I would suggest removing the props if nothing more than to re-grease the shaft.
  9. Another way to do it is to drain it, then pull the large thermostat hose and pour your mixture down the hose until full. This fills the block. Then do the same with the manifolds. Your fortunate that you have heated indoor storage, wish I did.
  10. I assumed you have a VP with the inboard engine flush port. You might want to give us a few more specifics.
  11. With a cold block and closed thermostat, you may have only been pushing the AF into the manifolds.
  12. If this is a one time move, I`d consider hiring it done. A little more money but the peace of mind, might be worth it. Either that or find a heavier trailer.
  13. I think the 5th pin (blue) is the Reverse solenoid lockout power supply. Without it, you will not be able to back the trailer without actuating the brakes, unless you engage a lockout pin.
  14. Experiment with a different set of props, say F7's.
  15. Try a socket (30mm) and a breaker bar. Might try a squirt of penetrating oil or a little heat. Be careful with the heat as you do not want to damage the rubber shaft seals up the prop shaft.