Chap243

You may want to consider painting your hull before next year as it looks like you keep it in the water. It will save you a lot of work at the end of the season.

Use a piece of clear Mylar to make a template of the ski locker. Similar to a Seadek template material.

Took my engine hatch off this weekend and pulled my engine. This procedure got me to thinking. My hatch is operated by a motorized lift on the starboard side of the engine compartment. Because the lifting pressure is off center (starboard side), and the hatch very heavy, I have more wear on the port side of the hatch and lip where it rests. Upon retraction, the port side hits first because of a slight sag on that side. Does anyone know if the newer models have added a second pneumatic support on the port side. Or has anybody added a second support to help alleviate this wear?

Don't think so. I had a similar boat, `02 243 and towed it with a 1500 Silverado rated at 7500 lbs. It was scary to tow. When towing, it felt like the boat pushed the truck around and when going uphill, the transmission was always downshifting and reving the engine up high. It would have eventually tore the truck up. I eventually replaced the 1500 with a 2500 when I purchased my 264. It made a world of difference. I think you will need something beefier than you Jeep Cherokee.

The engine is out and in my garage. I ended up using an overhead gantry rolling crane that a farmer friend had in his machine shop. We unhooked the engine cover, hoisted it up and set it down , then went back for the engine , then put the engine cover back on. It came out rather effortlessly. I`ve been taking this opportunity to clean and upgrade the bilge area, now that I can get to areas previously out of reach. The boat goes into storage this week and I`ll tackle the motor this winter. Leaning towards a new long block from Michigan Motors. I know that the existing actuator is electrical, but what I`m thinking about doing is adding a pneumatic compressed gas strut to the port side to assist the lift actuator because of the excess wear on the port front of the cover/hull contact area. I`m sure it can be done, I just need to find the right size and mounting location.

Thinking about adding a pneumatic assist on the port side to help balance the load and keep down the wear on that side. I was just wondering if anyone has done anything similar and how they did it.

You hook your garden hose to that port which allows you to run your engine when out of the water. Do not exceed 1500 rpm`s though.

I don't think this site allows sales advertisements. You might try the Chap owners FB page.

I love my Taco fender clips. Frees up my cleats for lines.

Slimy Grimy has always worked well for me. Although I have also had good results with the Starbright product.

I just use automotive PS fluid.

Has anybody ever removed your own engine? If so, how difficult a process is this? How did you get the hinged seat/engine cover off without damaging it and what contraption did you use to remove the engine. I have a tractor with a bucket but don't think it will go high enough.

I`ve thought about the 383 but was advised that I would have to get a new ECM and from what I have heard, that's no easy task. To add to the puzzle, while draining the starboard exhaust, no water came out. I will go ahead and pull engine and try to better diagnose.

I bet it will be covered. Rest easy.

Seems like another "drive by " poster. They come on here, complain about quality then never come back to give specifics. Possibly SeaRay employees?

yep

About 430 hrs. Have always used Mobil 1 . It has gone through almost 5 qts since May and about 50hrs. Anybody know anything good or bad about Michigan Motors. They have a new longblock there for about $3500 deer.

Its a VP 5.7 GXI, 320 hp

Yep, going to rebuild or replace. Motor has been burning a lot of oil lately and I don't know why. Debating now the rebuild vs. new long block route. If I go long block, I may try to do this myself over the winter as a project. Any suggestions as rebuild existing vs new long block.

How about lifting it off with the same device that I use to pull the engine after disconnecting the hinges? I have a friend with a backhoe, thinking about using that.

So leave the hatch/cover/seat hinged and disconnect the lifting actuator, and fold it over onto the swim platform until you can get the motor out, then flip it back over? All done slowly and carefully obviously? Those covers are heavy.

Hydrolocked indicates a water intrusion into a cylinder. If that`s the case you have a cracked manifold/riser or a bad gasket somewhere in the exhaust system. $2600 should cover removal and replacement of the manifold/riser system, not just a flushing. Somethings not adding up.

$2600 to flush the manifolds seems excessive.

Have you inspected your bellows lately?

Perhaps a “drive by” OP. Never returned to clarify his set up.