Chap243

Need some help. I’m repowering my boat this year. I have purchased a new VP 5.7 GXI 320 hp long block and have successfully transferred all components from the old engine over to the new block, now for the distributor. I have dropped the distributor into the block in what I believe to be the proper position with the engine at #1 TDC. What if anything will I need to do to properly set the timing on this engine. I am reading conflicting information from no timing needed, as the ecm will adjust, to its not adjustable, to 10 degrees BTDC. Thoroughly confused.

Curt, The only tool I have so far is an OBD diagnostic tool for my cars and truck. As you know it plugs in under the dash and gives various readouts of engine faults, ect. I doubt this would be compatible as I have not seen any similar port on the Volvo to plug into. I am debating purchasing a Rinda tool for this purpose. If I don't, I will have to take it to the dealer or a mechanic who will probably charge a few hundred dollars. The question is, do I want to invest that money in a Rinda, along with a few hundred more, and have the Rinda available for future use. After all that I`ve got invested into this engine now, what`s a few hundred more dollars, right ;). Does anyone know of a similar, less expensive tool, than the Rinda, that will read retard and plug into the VP where needed ? And if so, where can I get one? Wing mentions a bidirectional scan tool above, but not quite sure what that is. Guess I better do some research.

Things have gone well so far, really no complications until the distributor positioning thing. I had previously rebuilt the fuel cell, so it should be good. Oil pump is new, with the new block. The manifolds and risers are in good shape, so I just cleaned them out and repainted. The water pump, alternator and starter were rebuilt. I replaced all seals and O rings and rusty bolts, ect. New cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Installed a remote oil drain line. All transfer components were degreased and repainted. It really looks like a new engine, now I just have to figure out this cam retard, timing issue. Unfortunately I wont be able to fire it up until April when the hull gets out of storage and I can drop the motor back in. I may have to make a call to my auto mechanic to see how comfortable he would be working on a boat. Is the scan tool that is needed to set cam retard not Volvo specific tool, ie. a Rinda scanner?

I think I can get things close enough to get the motor started but will end up having to take it to a dealer to fine tune the cam retard with a scan tool of some type. I was hoping to be able to avoid that.

Wing, What is the correct terminology for this dialing in procedure with the distributor base? What does this bidirectional scan tool look like and where could I get one?

Not sure exactly what cam angle is, may need to research that. I do know that I can rotate the distributor base a few degrees before contacting the intake manifold which would appear to change the relationship of the spark plug wire contact points to the rotor. I think this cap rotation adjustment is what I am talking about. Do I need a Rinda scan tool to achieve this?

The donor engine, a 5.7, 320 hp is new. The ecm, from the old block and intake manifold and distributor is a 2008 Volvo GXI-j, 320 Hp, direct fuel injected.The distributor is the flat top/crab style. I believe it to be installed in the proper position, just questioning how timing is set, if at all.

Look up boatinfo.com. It has online manuals for most engines and drives that you can print off for free.

I`d just pour a stabilizer in the tank and burn it out next year.

Early season not so bad, but as the water warms later in summer, the growth intensifies. Most guys that slip with me that do not have paint, pull their boat once a month at least to clean the bottom.

I too leave mine slipped six months of the year. I would advise to paint it. I chose a white ablative (Pettit vivid white) and you can’t even tell it’s painted until up close. It keeps it cleaner during season and makes it much easier to clean at the end of the season. Painting also reduces the risk of gel coat blisters.

I made mine based on a Harbor Freight furniture dolly, some 2x4`s and angle brackets for additional support. Made to be the height of the drive in the down position. It`s not pretty but it works. I also have an overhead lightweight block and tackle pulley system in my garage that allows me to lift it out of the cradle to better sand and apply the spray paint. I just keep it in the garage through winter, gives me a winter project to work on.

Call me crazy, but I pull my drive each year. Generally just to inspect and repaint. Really, once you have built the stand cart it`s not that difficult a project. Just peace of mind I guess.

We are in the financial mess that we are in because our politicians refuse to say no. People keep demanding more goods and services from government and our politicians refuse to say no, we cannot afford it. The politicians know that it would be political suicide if they don't keep giving away other peoples money and it becomes much easier to say yes, lets spend it. A lot, almost 50% of this country does not pay income taxes, in fact many get back more than they pay in, this is wrong. On the other end of the spectrum, others are paying upwards to 50% of their income towards taxes, this is wrong. Governmental reckless spending has to stop and people should all be expected to pay a fair amount, not 0 and not 50%. If/when the government can learn to reduce their spending consumption, then they can begin reducing the burden on the citizens.

I like to keep my blocked filled with antifreeze as I believe it cuts down on the internal rusting. However I prefer to drain all water out first and then fill the block and manifolds directly with pure antifreeze rather than risk the thermostat not opening completely and then getting a poor mix of antifreeze in the block.

I would have added the fuel stabilizer, then ran the engine, then change the fuel filter, oil in the engine and drive. But given that you have at least drained the engine and will be storing underground, you should be ok, just not ideal. In my opinion of course.

That looks very similar to mine, except mine is black. I think mine is an earlier model as I have had it for seven years now. I don`t think mine has the same side port as that red model. It may be time to look into upgrading as the vacuum feature would sure be nice.

We just use a portable 12v Coleman brand pump. We`ve had it for years and it does well. I do wish it had a reverseable mode as deflating can sometimes be more of a headache than inflating.

I bet the exhaust bellows came off and water came in from a stern wave up the risers and into the cylinders.

My concern would be the antifreeze would not be distributed into the block unless the thermostat were open. Your antifreeze may simply get pumped into the exhaust manifolds and sent out the drive.

You may want to consider painting your hull before next year as it looks like you keep it in the water. It will save you a lot of work at the end of the season.

Use a piece of clear Mylar to make a template of the ski locker. Similar to a Seadek template material.

Took my engine hatch off this weekend and pulled my engine. This procedure got me to thinking. My hatch is operated by a motorized lift on the starboard side of the engine compartment. Because the lifting pressure is off center (starboard side), and the hatch very heavy, I have more wear on the port side of the hatch and lip where it rests. Upon retraction, the port side hits first because of a slight sag on that side. Does anyone know if the newer models have added a second pneumatic support on the port side. Or has anybody added a second support to help alleviate this wear?

Don't think so. I had a similar boat, `02 243 and towed it with a 1500 Silverado rated at 7500 lbs. It was scary to tow. When towing, it felt like the boat pushed the truck around and when going uphill, the transmission was always downshifting and reving the engine up high. It would have eventually tore the truck up. I eventually replaced the 1500 with a 2500 when I purchased my 264. It made a world of difference. I think you will need something beefier than you Jeep Cherokee.

The engine is out and in my garage. I ended up using an overhead gantry rolling crane that a farmer friend had in his machine shop. We unhooked the engine cover, hoisted it up and set it down , then went back for the engine , then put the engine cover back on. It came out rather effortlessly. I`ve been taking this opportunity to clean and upgrade the bilge area, now that I can get to areas previously out of reach. The boat goes into storage this week and I`ll tackle the motor this winter. Leaning towards a new long block from Michigan Motors. I know that the existing actuator is electrical, but what I`m thinking about doing is adding a pneumatic compressed gas strut to the port side to assist the lift actuator because of the excess wear on the port front of the cover/hull contact area. I`m sure it can be done, I just need to find the right size and mounting location.