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Denjenn

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  1. Wetsounds makes a bracket and the speakers - I will look for a picture
  2. I second IGGY on the Maretron cables and connectors over the Garmin or Lowarance. For one ing, the Maretron cables are fuel resistant, and all the cable ends are chrome brass. The all plastic threads that come with the Lowrance or Garmin starter kits strip very easily and crack in the winter. Remember terminators when installing any N2k backbone...think of them as stop signs....everything between the terminators talks, outside the terminators won't talk.
  3. Yes, check out RAM MOUNT. They make an entire line of mounting options for most applications, including cup holders.
  4. Based upon your pic, this appears to be the Airmar DT800 NMEA2000 version. Most likely, this is plugged into the N2K backbone to give numerical depth and temp on the 5212 screen. Most likely, the second transducer in the boat is the same thing, and is plugged into the instrument cluster to give numerical depth. Yes, the ducer is designed to be removed from the inside while the boat is in the water. CAUTION- this project is not for the faint of heart as you will get water in the boat. These newer ducers do have a one way rubber scupper inside, that prevents a 2' pressure stream, but rest assured you want to act fast with the dummy plug as water will come in. Prior to that, check the N2k connections. All of those cables have 5 pins (like the 5 on a side of dice). Many times the plastic connectors crack or are cross threaded, and the connection breaks causing data loss. Also in the settings menu of 5212, you should be able to pull up a NMEA DEVICE LIST. The DT800 transducer should be show there if the N2k backbone is working properly. Once the ducer is removed, keep the 5212 on, and see if you hear the transducer ticking. If so, then it is working, and you will need to go back and recheck the N2k wiring again. Also, check and see if the temp is showing up on the Garmin. Many times if there is no temp, the Garmin will lose transducer ID and stop communicating. Also, check to make sure the face of the transducer has not been painted- it should be black and completely smooth plastic. As for a fish finder, the GSD24 will plug directly into the 5212, and give you full bottom picture, depth, and fish. I would install the Airmar b60 20 degree tilted element transducer, as that will go into the same hole as the current DT800. Note, the same hole, NOT the same threaded thru-hull. Plus, with the b60, it will be bronze, so much more durable then the plastic for not much more money. Hope that helps
  5. Sounds like you've followed all the proper procedures to test an in-hull ducer. I am going to say that the hull is probably not cored, but instead just too thick. Technology back then was thicker is better for rigidity and many hulls were just too thick for the signal to read through, (mako, skipjack, shamrock are brands that come to mind from that era). Plus, the HDR is a low power transmitter (designed for 2-200' depth) with a smaller transducer crystal that does not have much "punch". Both variables together may mean that you may have to go thru-hull, or try a stronger sounder with either the Airmar p79 (600watt) or m260 (1Kw) transducer with a different sounder. I have seen the PVC pipe idea work on some hulls, but the pipe was epoxied in. Silicone absorbs the transducer signal, making the shoot thru weaker, which is why Airmar recommends epoxy.
  6. Even better! Thru-hull usually does read better then transom. However, the p319 may interfere. Hang the ducer over the side, and run the Lowrance on single freq, while the in dash unit is on. Flip between frequencies on the Lowrance and depth readings should remain relatively the same on all frequencies and with the in dash. Drastic jumps or drops in depth on either or dash lines (--) are your interference indicators Also, I don't believe the 319 will do the HDI features...you will see depth and traditional sounder, but you may not receive the imaging.
  7. Lumitec sea blaze are nice, but the Seablaze X have some issues, mainly with grounding since they are bronze. Wife and I spent a year looking and finally end up with Lumishore. Of all the lights we saw, Lumishore seemed to build a better mousetrap. While all other companies were trying to get brighter, they did so buy drawing more power. Not too efficient. What sold us was that Lumishore had a wider beam angle, with less power, so they actually put more light in the water. Priced about the same as the Seablaze
  8. I am assuming you have the 83/200/455/800 HDI transom mount transducer, so I don't see any issues with interference with the dash depth gauge, which is running on 200Khz. You can probably run both at same time. Biggest thing is to make sure the transducer surface is level, so it parallels the bottom, tilting one way or the other will give erroneous readings. Also, make sure the surface of the ducer is a fraction below the hull so that air bubbles don't form on the transducer face. One other thing is look into the navionics charts as an add on. The data on those cards are very good, and the data is usually fresher then what is built into the unit.
  9. Sweet! Jim @ boe runs a good place. Take a look at the TM150 light chirp transducer, the sonar pics are really good, and track bottom at high speeds.
  10. Generator only! Ac power through any inverter will not work, mainly because the amps the compressor will draw at start-up will kill the DC bank. Forget the fact to keep up, you will need a second boat to haul the batteries necessary to power the inverter.
  11. George There are 3 main issues when selecting a pilot....type of steering, type of motors (to determine feedback style), displacement (weight). My fear is that the 1994 has a rack steering system. Behind the helm is a long bar with teeth on it and a gear on the wheel, turn the wheel and the gear grabs the teeth of the bar pulling or pushing the cable port or starboard. It this is the case, then you may not find a pilot for that boat. Simrad makes the AP24 for cable steering, but it uses the Teleflex morse safe-t-helm, which requires about 12" of depth behind the wheel. Unfortunately , in the 90's, that depth isn't there, which is why Chap used the rack & pinion system. If that is the case, the only fix is to replace the rack system with hydraulic steering. Once hydraulic steering is in then we have multiple choices since Simrad, Raymarine, and Garmin all now use virtual feedbacks
  12. Yes, it was glomex. Take a look at the UFO-X by www.majestic-global.com Smaller size and Higher db gain for better reception
  13. The 441s has been officially discontinued by Garmin, so I would go 50s. Although for the same dough, take a look at the 546s. It too is discontinued but is a 5" full VGA screen, so its easier to read, especially in sunlight. The other option would be to switch brands...look,at the Lowrance elite4hdi or elite5hdi. These units all have the new chirp down vision in them, which give you a very good bottom picture, and they use Navionics charts, which will be more updated then the Garmin vision. And after storm sandy, the better charts will give you more up to date info
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