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aboaterman

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    Bilacqua@verizon.net

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    Niskayuna, NY

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  1. Hey folks, I have a 2001 280 Signature with twin mercruiser 5.0 EFI's. This has a quicksiver top mount dual control with trim, which seems a bit stiff. Does anyone have access to a service manual, or know how to identify, or what model number this is? I believe there is an adjustable drag on the throttle mechanism. The controls slide easily when I depress the button to only control the throttle, as opposed to the shifter and throttle together. I would really like access to a service/parts manual to understand this control. Any help would be appreciated. I found a picture of a similar control, as I did not have a picture of my exact one available. Brian
  2. Hey folks, I have a 2001 280 with 5.0 EFI's that has a Mercury Quicksilver Binnacle Dual throttle which has the Trim Switches in the Port throttle. The switches appear to be held in place by a Plastic Trim Cover (part 5). I attached the best diagram of the control that I could find. Has anyone replaced trim switches (part 4) on this, or does anyone have a service manual for this control? It appears like that cover should be removable, but I don't want to break anything. Occasionally, these trim switches do not function, and then other times they work perfect. I have sprayed WD40, and contact cleaner on the switches, which seems to help, but it is not a permanent solution. The throttles are also a bit stiff to shift, is there an adjustment for the 'drag' on the throttles? If so, how do I get to that? As always, I appreciate this forum, and the wealth of knowledge that is shared here, Happy boating, Brian
  3. Does your canvas mount to the arch, or go under?
  4. I think the hull was designed for 4.3's with carb's, so the flame arrestors were slightly back further towards the stern, and the carbs were slightly shorter in height than the throttle body. I believe that when they went to 5.0 MPI's, which do not have the tall throttle body, the issue wasn't as pronounced. The fact that Chaparral assembles the power plants and all associated wiring, etc, prior to mounting the top half of the boat, doesn't help with future maintenance considerations. I think all boats have their own individual issues, that possibly the manufacturers would have preferred they approached differently in hindsight. The canvas design is another of my regrets. Mine goes under the arch, instead of attaching to the arch, which makes it extremely difficult to fold up. That being said, my hull is 16 years old, and I do not have a single stress crack anywhere. Plus I have more amenities on this boat, than some much larger boats. Chaparral makes a quality boat, and their reputation is well deserved.
  5. Lew, I posted this question 'Flame arrestor Removal' many times, but didn't really get a satisfactory answer. I have compressed air available, and made a long 'U' shaped piece of 1/4" copper tubing that I attached to an air gun. I cover the motors with old towels, and plug up the throttle body with a rag under the flame arrestor. Then I spray carb cleaner through the flame arrestor from the outside in, one section at a time. Once it's clean, I use the air to blow the carb cleaner back out from the inside until it's clean. Rotate the flame arrestor, and do another section, until it's all clean. Make sure you wear safety glasses, and an old shirt. It's ridiculous to have to go through this for what should be a 5 minute job, but it was worth the effort. Someone else here mentioned that they had cut access hatches to remove the flame arrestors, but never followed through on supplying pictures of what they did. That was the best that I could come up with, good luck. Brian
  6. I have an '01 280 with 5.0 Merc EFI's and Bravo III's. I had issues with performance, and changed Cap, rotor, plugs, and cleaned the flame arrestors. Problem solved. The flame arrestors are really tough to access on mine, I have to clean them in place, as they will not come off. Good luck.
  7. My 290 with 5.0 EFI's gets about 32 MPH at 12 GPH around 3400 RPM. I can stay on plane down to 28 -30 MPH at 2800 - 3000 RPM using around 9-10 GPH. I run between those ranges when I'm going someplace, unless I'm putting around at 7 MPH using 2-3 GPH.
  8. I have a 2001 280 Signature, which was re-badged as a 290 in 2004. I am looking to replace the canvas with the newer style which came out in 2006 -2007 for the 290. My canvas goes under the arch, and the newer canvas attaches to the arch. Hopefuly this will give me the additional headroom at the helm that I need, I'm 6'4". In addition, the speakers and lights on the arch will be inside the canvas, instead of outside, and it will be easier to fold up the bimini to the arch. I have a connection to Taylor Made- Ameritech, which made the factory canvas. He is trying to get me a deal on a replacement. I am looking for pictures of the full camper canvas, and I need a Hull Id or Vin number for Ameritech to identify what was provided. I have a feeling that I might be able to use the original bimini poles, just mount them on the arch towards the stern, instead of going under the arch. That would also save me a lot of money, stainless is expensive. Any pictures of the mounting locations, hardware, dimensions would be greatly appreciated. I added a picture of my boat, and an image of a 2006 290 from the internet. Hopefully someone on this forum has a camper canvas similar to this and would be willing to share some information with me. If you are concerned about posting your Vin number on line, you can send any inforrmation to me at Bilacqua@verizon.net. I will not share the information with anyone other than Taylor Made - Ameritech. Thank you for any assistance you may provide, Brian
  9. I have had this same problem on my '01 280 with 5.0 EFI's, and have asked Chaparral for a solution, but have not received a reply as of yet. There is an older thread on here, about a month ago, with pictures of my situation. I used 1/8" copper tubing with a small 'U' shape on the end for my compressed air gun. I lay towels on the motor, undue the flame arrestor, and stuff a rag in the throttle body as much as possible. Then I slide the U shaped tube inside the flame arrestor, and spray them with carb cleaner from the outside. Once they are 'wet', I blow air out from the inside. You can do about 1/4 of it at at time, and rotate it until you get the whole thing. Wear glasses, because you can spray blow the carb cleaner at yourself accidentally. It's a real PITA, for something that should be a 5 minute job, but I found it worth it. The motors run much better with air flow... Another member here, Egan317, has a couple of friends with '02 280's that cut access hatches to remove the flame arrestors, and he promised to post some pictures. I am very curious how they did it. I'm surprised that Chaparral didn't make the rear trunk on an access hatch of it's own, which would have made servicing the motors a whole lot easier. If anyone made that modification I'd love to see it. Good luck, Brian
  10. I have a 2001 280 Signature, and my switch labels were wearing off. Since the switches functioned well, I didn't want to spend the money on new switches, just for a lack of a label. I made a template in excel for Avery 5160 labels. I printed the labels, covered them with clear tape, then cut the individual labels out, and placed them on the switches. They are not factory, but have held up for 2 years already, and still look better than no labels. I made several copies of each, and kept them on the boat, just in case I need to replace any, but so far so good. You can change the text or font on this to whatever you need. Just a suggestion for the label, not the functionality of the switch. Chapparal Switch Labels Avery 5160.xlsx
  11. My carpet also had the backing crumbling, and leaving black marks on the fiberglass. Someone on this forum recommended using a 2 part rubber epoxy from West Marine. I took my carpets out, scrubbed with a wire brush, and used a roller to paint the epoxy on. I did this 3 years ago, and it has held up. I no longer keep the carpets in the cockpit due to water, but the ones in the cabin stay. It wasn't cheap, about 45 quart, but that was enough to do all my carpets at once. The only thing I would have done different, is I would buy the white, instead of black, because I still get some marks on the fiberglass. For the money, it was good stop gap, and saved the original carpet.
  12. I have had some minor performance issues since I bought this boat 4 years ago. The issues have not been overwhelming, since I rarely run this WOT, but I always want the performance to be there when I ask for it. Last year I cleaned the the flame arrestors, changed the plugs, cap and rotor. I was finally able to get 4800 - 5000 rpm out of the motors for about a five minute ride, then I reverted back to my normal putting around for a couple of hours. When I accelerated again, I was back to 4200 WOT again. I don't understand what could have happened in that short of a period of time. The motors run beautiful, smooth, no hesitation. Is it possible that my positive crankcase ventilation (PCV valve) is malfunctioning, and spraying too much oil from the valve cover, and blocking the air flow? Is there a replacement pcv valve that might filter more oil out from that? Odd that it affects both motors equally. Cyclops2, I have thought about removing the throttle body to remove the flame arrestor for cleaning, but that seems extreme for a yearly service. In my last boat it was a five minute job. I'm in the northeast, upstate NY, so it's getting time to think about boating again. Can't wait. Again, thanks to all for your responses.
  13. With the center stud removed, I tried every conceivable direction to twist or turn that arrestor to remove it. I could not get enough clearance. There are some baffles coming up in the throttle body that prevent the bottom edge of the flame arrestor from clearing the throttle body. I have continued to research this looking for a 2 or 3 piece flame arrestor to replace the originals. The current ones have about a 1 1/2" h x 3 1/2" round flange on the bottom, which then extends out to about 6" diameter. Then there is the mesh element which is about 1 to 1 1/2" high, and the cover is about 6" diameter. The top cover is riveted through the width of the wire mesh to the bottom flange, with like 3 or 4 rivets. So, I thought about drilling out the rivets, to break this into 3 pieces, hoping that by removing the top cover, I would get enough of a pivot off the bottom to remove the wire mesh for cleaning. If I knew that would work then I would replace the rivets with through bolts and nuts. Of course I am concerned about drilling out the rivets, and having any shavings go down the throttle body, or dropping something when replacing the covers. I think Chaparral designed the boat with 4.3 liters in mind, which had carburetors, and the position of the flame arrestor was further back towards the stern due to smaller block. Even when they went to EFI, I don't think they realized the issue until after. When building these, I have to believe they put all the power plants in before putting the top half of the boat on. No problems at all then, everything was accessible This is a great boat, but this problem is only one of the screw ups that I believe they made when they designed this boat. Whoever designed the canvas for the first few years should have been blacklisted as well. You can't fold the Bimini canvas up without removing the supports from the side walls. They will not fit under the arch. The fixed this issue in future years by relocating the supports and connecting the canvas to the arch, instead of going under the arch. My original canvas is still in good shape, so I hate to spend the cash on convenience as opposed to necessity.
  14. Thanks for the replies. I attached pictures of the motors, unfortunately the plastic shroud are still on in the pictures, but if you look closely at the pictures you will see that the retaining nut on the plastic shroud is actually under the lip of the drain channel under the hatch lid. Once I removed the plastic shroud, and removed the center rod, I have still have been unable to get enough clearance between the bottom of the deck and the top of the throttle body. Removing the hatch itself, will not give me any additional clearance. I have been cleaning these by lifting the flame arrestor as much as possible and stuffing a rag into the throttle body. I cover the top of the motor with towels, and spray carb cleaner into the flame arrestor from the outside in. Then I use compressed air to dry it out as best I can. I've had a couple of other thoughts on this. I created a u shaped tube with a flat sprayer on the end to connect to my compressed air. I was hoping that I could wiggle that in between the top of the throttle body, to the inside the flame arrestor, to blow air out from the inside. I made that tool, but haven't tried it yet. As to Egan317's reply about having two friends that cut service hatches, I would be very happy if you could get some pictures of what they did. I've thought about making some additional service hatches, but I couldn't see where to locate them without cutting through the drain loop around the back of the engine hatch. I thought that might weaken it a bit also. I appreciate your responses.
  15. You're right, it would be a cheap investment. Thanks again for your assistance.
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