LambChop

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About LambChop

  • Birthday 04/07/1983

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    http://www.adamkuhn.net

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    Madison, WI

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  1. Not when when you have air suspension.
  2. That's what I asked in my original post ... I'm boating on inland lakes in Wisconsin - slightly murky, but not bad. The weeds have been much worse this year - too much farm runoff making it into the lakes and causing algae blooms. The boat bottom is unpainted and clean. I'm not around the boat right now, but I'll look for the transducer this weekend. It sounds like the consensus is the transducer is dirty or poorly mounted?
  3. My depth sounder has read sporadically since I purchased the boat five years ago. It shows a reading that is fairly accurate around 60% of the time: However, other times and usually, not always, at depths greater than 5-6 ft, it'll go blank (note that it still has power, as the FT indicator is still showing): I've seen readings on it (which were fairly accurate) anywhere from 2 ft to 92 feet. It seems that it tends go blank more often in 10 ft+ depths. I'm thinking it might be a poorly mounted transducer? Any tips for troubleshooting? Where and what type of transducer was mounted in the 2130?
  4. That's impressive. She must have built up some serious speed to make it into the parking lot. Had to be one he!l of a repair bill.
  5. Navionics works great. I picked up a Garmin GLO GPS/Glonass receiver to connect via bluetooth to an iPad (the iPad is wifi only, so no aGPS receiver or cell signal). The stand alone Garmin GLO is more accurate and has better reception/resolution (and picks up both GPS and GLONASS - the Russian version of GPS) than the standard iPhone aGPS receiver.
  6. No offense taken. However, this isn't my idea - there are multiple YouTube videos on this. There are posts on other forums from owners stating they've had no issue after the procedure (maybe none of them are willing to admit they drive was f*@cked after the procedure?). As I mentioned in my original post, even I think this is a poor idea. I've had second thoughts before, during, and after doing this as a failure out on the water is not something I really want to deal with. I haven't run the boat after the "procedure" yet, but may do so just to see if any signs of failure manifest themselves in the oil as abnormal vibrations/noise in hopes of debunking the fix. Ultimately, I think I'll pursue repairing/replacing the lower unit.
  7. I thought about making an insurance claim, but didn't look into it as I have no idea when the actual prop shaft was bent.
  8. The prop shop guy who replaced my skeg last year noted that my propeller shaft was bent, conveniently after he had completed the work. Shame on me for not noticing/checking to see if any other damage was caused after a prop strike, but ... seriously ... you see this day-in-day-out and you don't mention it before you go ahead and weld a new skeg on to the drive? Anyways ... I've been running around with a bent shaft - something I should have addressed sooner. I haven't felt any vibrations or noticed any odd behavior. The drive oil comes out clean. I was able to see a bit of prop wobble, but it's not horrendous. Still, it's only a matter of time before the bent shaft causes issues further up the driveline. As I see it, there a few options to remedy a bent prop shaft: Have the lower rebuilt with a straightened prop shaft (not sure on the cost) Have the lower rebuilt with a new prop shaft (not sure on the cost) Replace the lower with a used lower ($500+) Replace the lower with a new lower ($1,800+) Replace the lower with an aftermarket SEI lower (~$900) From what I've read, the rebuild costs are nearly the same as the SEI lower. For the small difference in price, there's no point in messing with a used lower when a new SEI unit is a few bucks more and has a 3 year no-fault warranty. I had an SEI lower in my Amazon cart until I came across a sixth option: Any bets on how long the bearings and seals will last? I was able to find posts from people who have done it and all say no leaks, no bearing issues after performing the procedure. I'm still skeptical and I'm thinking the drive is going to fail. We'll see if the fix prolongs the drive's life. My plan is to check the drive oil after the first or a few uses and look for evidence of failed bearings and seals. If they show up, then it looks like I'll be bolting up a new SEI lower.
  9. The gauges are acting up in my 2130 SS. Specifically: Tachometer - sporadically reads high at a steady RPM; sporadically starts sweeping into the upper RPM range. Tapping the gauge ... with authority ... often causes it to return to normal operation Depth Sounder - intermittent operation. Seems to work 70% of the time, but other times it's blank like it doesn't have power. The rest of the gauges work fine with no issues. The gauge backlighting works fine and doesn't flicker. I was suspecting a bad ground or possibly corrosion on the ground distribution strip, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Having to tap on the tach would suggest that the pole switch is bad or slightly out of position. I'm considering going to a GPS speedometer - looks like Fariah has a nice option - I may replace the rest of the gauges to match. So, two questions: Any tips on how to gain access to/remove these gauges? I tried removing the two screws that secure the would trip to the dash and then pulling away, but the wood panel didn't seem to want to separate from the dash and I suspect it's quite fragile. There's no access from underneath. Does anyone know the brand of the factory installed gauges?
  10. I had a Land Rover Discovery Series II. The advertised tow rating was 7,700 lbs, but with a little more research of the owner's manual, that number was for towing while in low range. Still, in high range the Disco was rated for 5,500 lbs. Plenty, right? Wrong. The Discovery had plenty of power when towing around town. It pulled the boat up the ramp with ease. Where did the Discovery come up short? Towing on the interstate. At any sight of even the slightest hill, the transmission would drop a gear and the revs would go sky high. Sure, the 4.0 V8 was rated for only 188 hp, but it did make a good portion of that power in the lower revs. Towing at 70 mph? Nope. It wasn't so much a question of will it do it, but how much longer do you think the transmission will last and how often do you want to stop for fuel? With 5,000 lbs of weight behind it (the weight of my 2130 SS and trailer on the scale) combined with a very short wheelbase (100", nearly the same as a Mini Cooper), stopping was just OK, but with no trailer sway control or towing mode, I was always a little worried about stopping in an emergency. The lackluster towing performance limited me to towing in town - local lakes only. Forget taking the boat on vacation. I really loved driving the Discovery. Awesome off-road, huge, expansive greenhouse, handled like it was on rails - just a very neat vehicle to drive. But the decent on-paper tow rating translated into poor real-life performance - the reason I parted with it. The Tacoma is a fantastic truck. I considered it (as well as the new GMC Canyon, both with the V6 and I4 Duramax Diesel) when I sold the Discovery. But with no V8 or forced induction V6, a shorter wheelbase (than full size trucks), and lighter duty brakes, it's just not enough truck for boats/trailers over 4,500 lbs. I still made a compromise with my new tow vehicle. The Grand Cherokee's wheelbase over a foot longer than the Discovery's, but still significantly shorter than a pickup truck and the brakes are still lighter duty. However, the 360 HP V8 has plenty of grunt for towing on the interstate and the 4 wheel air suspension really helps with the ride quality and handling while the towing.
  11. Thanks guys. I settled on Navionics. I couldn't find much info on iNavX, at least with power boaters - it seems the coastal sailing guys have taken a liking to iNavX. Does Navionics have a night mode? Seems like the color scheme would be the opposite of what you'd want to retain proper night vision.
  12. I know the local lakes like the back of my ... elbow. Pretty good, but a look at my prop shows that I've had my memory jogged a few times. ;). With a new and improved (it slices, dices, and even juliennes!) tow vehicle, we'll be able to explore surrounding lakes and rivers. My first foray into new waters was on Lake Wisconsin last October. "Plenty of people boat on it, how hard could it be?", I thought. You can only dodge stumps so long until you realize the stumps you can see aren't necessarily the stumps that you have to worry about. Turns out, I was boating on the lake/river after the channel markers and hazard buoys had all been pulled. So, it's time to get a chart plotter. Since I've already got an iPad and bluetooth GPS/GLONASS receivers are cheap (just ordered the Garmin GLO), I've decided to go the app route rather than the dedicated Garmin/Humminbird/Lowrance unit. So, from those of you using tablets/phones for chart plotting, which app (Navionics vs iNavX) do you recommend and why?
  13. Shepherd - Have you ever tried Merc's Enertia prop with your boat? If so, what was your opinion? After smacking my stainless steel Mercury Vengeance (came with the boat) on a stump 2 years ago, I threw on my spare Mercury Black Max. Last year, I tried giving a cheap prop a shot - a 4 blade Turning Point 19 pitch aluminum propeller. Hated it. When compared to a standard 3 blade Mercury 21 pitch Black Max , I didn't see any improved holeshot, top speed suffered significantly, and minimum planing speeds didn't seem to drop. It did have great grip in the corners and rough water, I'll give it that. Also, I'm fairly positive that my fuel economy took a significant hit. No more Turning Point props ...
  14. One very important thing to do when draining the block is to run a pick up into the drain holes to free any sediment that may have settled in there. Ask me how I know ...
  15. No photos yet, but first time out this year and I can confirm the boat still floats. So did my trailer bunks.