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About Toddavid

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  1. And for the record, I never PM'd you. Maybe you got a forum alert that I quoted you in a post. This thread was bordering on Ric territory for a bit.
  2. Ok, I really don't want to derail this thread, and turn this into a peeing match, but some things here need to be challenged: Mechanics make their money off of labor, not parts (shop owners do). When a guy like Shep praises the 6.0 over the big block, there's no financial incentive. Volvo as a company completely dwarfs Mercury. Volvo's resource bench, from their HD truck, to their passenger car, to their commercial marine divisions, is much deeper than Merc's, no offense to Merc. With all due respect, that is incorrect. Volumetric Efficiency is the name of the game with any engine. While torque does move the boat (and HP is simply a mathematical expression of torque), with all things equal (fuel composition, form of induction), VE allows a smaller displacement engine to match the power curve of a larger one. In this case, VE is superior on the Volvo because of: TECHNOLOGY. The VVT itself brings a lot to the game. Load for a given power output is tied to VE, period. Not displacement. Again, load is not higher with the VP engines, they are not being "worked harder" to produce the same torque as the big block, they are simply technically superior and able to produce same power as BB through efficiency gains (TECHNOLOGY). These engines have been in recreational boating wide use since 2013 (2012?). If they were a long term reliability failure, you'd be hearing about that by now (think XDP). You're not. VP and Merc both needed to find alternatives to the BB because GM has phased out the block. VP bit the bullet and moved on first. Now you see Merc finally catching up with their own BB replacement (not the 8.2). And notice they are not sticking with big displacement with their new line of engines. I have the 6.0, not the new 6.2, and it is spec'd for 87 regular unleaded. I'm not aware that the GenV requires Super. Where the heck do you find Super at a boat marina? Not sure I am buying that mandate, seems that would be an obvious warranty exposure to them via pre-detonation since 91 octane is not readily available on the water. Uh, what? Ever see the GVW ratings of pickup trucks? They are far north of there. You're thinking of dry weight, which is absolutely not what the engine is designed to deal with on a regular basis. I'm not a brand fanboy. I've owned Merc and VP, Merc served me well. But I'm also not "stuck in the past" and can appreciate technological advances when I see them: Better VE Equal if not better performance than BB 250-300lbs lighter than BB Considerably more service room in engine compartment Again, not looking to get into a measuring contest here, just arguing for the facts. Besides the extra wet length I am dragging around, I outweigh you by quite a bit. BB in my boat is basically equal in top end, while drinking a lot more fuel to get there.
  3. I don't get this statement. There is a broader torque curve with the VVT on the 6.0 VP vs 8.2 big block. I've never, ever had issues getting out of the hole, even with 4 adults/3 kids on board and all of them sitting in the stern. And then up to a 52mph top speed on a hot summer day, with similar weight, and all our gear on board. Not to sound too much like a VP fanboy, but the broad powerband plus the 250-300lbs weight savings plus the ease of service (especially in the tight engine bay of the Sunesta) makes the VP a strong contender. I see you were in this thread, too, and Shep, who works on VP and Merc, seems to agree with the VP superiority:
  4. Hopefully someone knowledgeable about closed cooling system engines did the winterizations on that boat...
  5. Yup. FYI, on the VP380, there are numerous sacrificial anodes throughout the raw water side, including heat exchanger and manifolds, so that does stack odds in your favor of abated corrosion with those few hours of use.
  6. From the factory, the internals of the exhaust manifolds are uncoated, so there will always be a bit of surface oxidation when in contact with water, fresh or salt, so rust wash there is not necessarily a cause for worry. I guess you can ask the PO if he/she did engine flush after each use, but the only way to really tell is an internal examination of the raw water side, which requires some disassembly. At 70 hrs and 2 seasons of use, I wouldn't necessarily say you'd be immediately due for a manifold replacement if flushing were not done, but unless you look inside, regardless of who the owner is, you'll never really know the balance of use you have left. Just the nature of salt. My previous boat was salt use, and supposedly the PO flushed after each use, but I still disassembled at the elbows to take a peak inside after I bought it. Luckily clean as a whistle. You can use muffs on the VPs, but there is also a flush port near the oil filter. Given that it takes some time to raise the engine cover, hook up the water, flush, and reverse steps, I wouldn't assume flushing was done. Did you see water sources on the dry rack dock at the marina? If not, chances are even less the PO did flushing, and you already know the dock hands didn't do it.
  7. My fresh water only 2014 shows similar issues at the cleat and also drive corrosion. The gel coat issues are minor and easily fixed, but I'm surprised someone who supposedly cared for their boat well would leave a chunk of gel coat missing down to the fiberglass like on the bow. That is prime for water intrusion and should have been fixed soon after it happened. I'd put a moisture meter on that area. Raw water mingles with the engine at the heat exchanger, impeller/hoses, and back half of the manifolds on a VP380. The rust on the prop nut is wash coming out of the manifolds, that's an exhaust point. 2015 and earlier arch is aluminum. Paint, not gel coat, so treat like any other metal pant repair. There should be dummy bolts you can put into the rack holes, think I saw them on cecilmarine once.
  8. If you plan on any choppy water use, I'd highly recommend them. On the Chesapeake, I use them all the time.
  9. I should say that "I can see why they quote engine out" because of where the connection points are, directly behind the engine, and whether the repair can be done with engines in is highly dependent on engine bay access and size of engine. Big block seriously reduces available space around the engine, especially with two of them. Technically, if there is enough space, and the studs don't break, this can be an engine-in repair, but sometimes things can be easier and cheaper pulling the engine rather than fighting the lack of space to work in. As far as I understand, the plastic tube upgrade is the fix, don't know about having to replace the actual transom plate. But I suppose that depends on how bad the corrosion is.
  10. There should be an upgrade kit that replaces the hose with a plastic tube, also allowing all wear items to be serviced from the drive side in the future. Engine out to replace these hoses because the flange where they terminate are on the engine side of the transom, directly in back of the engines. With salt use, the transom plates can corrode these hoses shut, and the studs on the flanges can shear when attempting to replace (happened to me on my last boat with a Merc).
  11. I don't wish to muddy the waters, either, but I'd be a little hesitant about first year direct injection engines, seeing what's happened in the automotive world. Carbon build up in the intake tracts due to no wash down of the intake valves. Car manufacturers are just starting to get a handle on this, and they're not battling the constant high cylinder temps found in a boating environment (constant high load operation). Interested to see what happens after a few hundred hours of use. Curious about the throttle response difference EVC vs non? Driving my buddy's 257 with V8-430 and EVC his throttle is just as touchy as mine at low rpms, like a hair trigger, takes a lot of practice compared to the Merc cable throttles I was used to. Is EVC supposed to be less touchy? And I agree about the engagement clunk, my 2014 V8-380 non EVC will clunk every now and then when engaging gear, his doesn't do that. Extra exhaust noise: when accelerating hard, I think that's what you're referring to? Midrange under full throttle can be a tad noisier than a Merc, but cruising speed is no louder from what I can tell. Here's that video you were referring to:
  12. For what it's worth, my 380hp VP gets me to 52mph on calm water, 80f day. Buddy's 257 with HO version of same engine (430hp) will do about 6mph more in same conditions. So that's about what 50hp does with about same weights, I imagine the 250 or so more lbs of the big block might knock a few mph off that spread.
  13. They absolutely do not lead to the bilge, speaking as a 264 owner. I could say that speaking as a Chaparral owner In general. I wouldn't be surprised if you own or just got out of another brand boat.