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Toddavid

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    SE PA
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    Power!

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  1. Toddavid

    Made a decision, Have a Question

    I passed on doing the hull transfer on my boat, bought with 74 hrs on it. I only did the balance of factory warranty transfer, 3 yrs left at that time. Marine survey showed no lurking issues.
  2. Toddavid

    VP DP-S drive service

    Looks like this stuff: https://oceanmax.com/marine-products/propspeed/product-information
  3. Toddavid

    Trim sender replacement how-to, DPS-B 2.14

    FYI, turns out the digital sender has not been discontinued, it is now part of a bundle that includes fastener washers (dunno why), part 22005045.
  4. Ok, maybe this post will help others. My trim gauge was bouncing up and down at low speeds. Some basic testing suggested the sender was bad. 2014 Sunesta 264 with VP V8-380-C-D. Non-EVC. All online manuals for my DPS-B 2.14 drive called for sender part number 21484383. I ordered that part number, put my boat on a service rack at the marina, plugged it into the boat's wiring harness to check if it would engage the gauge needle, and it did. You split the harness connector by sliding a red clip sideways and pushing down on a tab at the back of the clip (no photo, sorry). You can temporarily install the new sender by slipping the electrical prongs into the harness socket (careful not to let them touch each other during testing). After verifying operation, I then rotated the plastic prong on the sender body to the point where the needle on my gauge was full down, and made sure my drive was trimmed full down. That way I would be very close to final adjustment after install. The following can be done with the drive installed. You need to first remove the wiring connector off the original harness going to the sender, 31 in the photo below. First, take a photo the connector, clearly showing the colors of the wires going into it. You'll need to duplicate this orientation exactly when reinstalling. Then with needle nose pliers pull out the red insert inside the connector where the electrical prongs protrude, then with a very slim flat head screwdriver gently pry up on the plastic tabs that are holding in the electrical prongs. Pop off the clip at the base of the connector and pull the prongs out of the connector by tugging on the wires. You'll swap all the connector parts over to the new sender harness. There is a metal clip, 30 in the photo above, that secures the rubber plug on the engine side of the harness where it travels through the transom. Use long needle nose pliers coming from the side, like in this photo below, to remove and install this wire clip. Stuff some rags in the crevices below in case you drop the clip. You'll be doing that install blind, too, and it's the hardest part of the job (but not terrible). Once the clip is removed, you can pull the harness out via the drive side of the transom. Unbolting the sender from starboard side of the gimbal ring and cutting the zip tie holding the harness a few inches away will allow you to wiggle the assembly past the back of the gimbal ring and to pull the wiring straight backwards. You may need to pry a little on the rubber plug, where the wiring disappears at transom in this photo, with a long screw flat head to break its seal: Wrap some tape around the electrical prongs, like photo below, slather the rubber plug on the harness with waterproof grease (like Mercruiser 2-4-C), pull back on the water hose in the photo above and fish the harness into the hole in the transom shield to get it to appear in the engine bay. Install is basically reverse of removal. Adjusting the sensor on the ring will probably be necessary to fully dial in the gauge to match the drive position. Rotate it clockwise if you need the needle to go lower (toward down indicator) on gauge, counterclockwise to go higher. Now, here's the kicker: While every source online said my sender was 21484383, it wasn't. After everything was installed, I trimmed the drive fully up and down and the gauge would only give about 2/3 range. Rotate the sender so that the needle was fully down with the drive down, and the needle would only move 2/3 up even when the drive was fully trimmed up. Rotate the sender to the top, and same thing would happen when trimming down. Great... Then, when looking at the sender I removed, I saw a different part number, on a label shrunk to the wire sheath: 21683581 Searching online for this part number indicated it would be for an EVC engine, which I don't have. It also seemed to be discontinued. Great... I did find a new old stock one on ebay luckily for less than half the cost of the other one. Maybe I should order another as a spare. After receiving it, it looked identical to the 21484383 sender, except with a grey harness protector (instead of black). But it did not have stops when rotating the plastic prong, unlike the other sender. The 21484383 sender is analog, the one for my boat is obviously digital. So check that first before ordering! The next weekend, I tore into everything again and installed the new sender. Took a qtr of the time (of course), and now everything works properly. And that's that.
  5. Toddavid

    Convince me: AGM vs lead acid

    For what it’s worth, charging voltage is finally where I’d like to see it, between 13.6 and 14.1v. Rocked the tunes for 7hrs on the hook Saturday and fired right up. My odd sat radio and GPS issues have gone away, too. And I did confirm that both batteries are getting a charge when engine is running, no matter if switch is in position 1 or 2, so that’s peace of mind when running the tunes all day.
  6. Toddavid

    Ramp Follies...

    First year boating, came home to marina after a solo day on the water. Spun the boat around at the high and dry dock with a few forward/back strokes on the throttle. When bow was within a foot of the dock, I walked up to the bow with line in hand and stepped off... only to realize that I had left the throttle one click in reverse. Me and another boater on the dock started pulling hard on the line, to no avail, as my boat slowly puttered away in reverse, and pulled us both in. Two dock hands started sprinting to the opposite side of the basin towards where the boat was (slowly) heading, while I was sunk to my hips in mud and having no luck mounting the bow. Just as the stern arrived at the opposite side dock, a dock hand jumped on board and shut her down. Tapped the dock with a quiet thunk. No damage, except to my ego (and wallet, due to the large tips I handed out to the dock hands). Lesson for the day: even minimum throttle on prop puts out more thrust than a large man can overcome.
  7. Toddavid

    OMC part numbers same as VP?

    If I recall, there is a historical connection between OMC and Volvo Penta. Need a clip that I can get at qtr price on eBay but it’s a Johnson/OMC part number. Part description and photo suggests same part as VP. 3852555
  8. Toddavid

    Convince me: AGM vs lead acid

    Yes, but Iggy was envisioning a mechanical clutch that would decouple the load from the shaft, which doesn't exist. Technically, yes, the interaction between the windings and the magnets could be considered a variable electromagnetic clutch, but the intention of that mechanism in an alternator is not to act as a clutch, it's just a byproduct of the production of electricity.
  9. Toddavid

    Convince me: AGM vs lead acid

    Yup, but Iggy was questioning how an alternator could be strategically controlled to reduce emissions (via reduced engine load), and that would be via computer control.
  10. Toddavid

    Convince me: AGM vs lead acid

    He’s trying to make a funny. There is no clutch. The magnetic field creates a drag that increases with the voltage supplied/produced. That’s the load that varies according to electrical demands. Low demands equals low drag and low parasitic losses. High demands equals high drag, and high parasitic losses. By closely matching alternator output to exact demand via computer control, you minimize losses.
  11. Toddavid

    Convince me: AGM vs lead acid

    Thanks, Curt. The doc I linked to above did reference GM engines. So if I have an old fashioned dumb alternator, how do we explain the suddenly lower voltage output if all I did was swap in new batteries?
  12. Toddavid

    To change or not to change Impeller

    I've never used the bow or the "stern" coolers on my boats for drinks. Good to know should I decide to stash glass bottles in either when underway. I do, however, have a floating cooler, since I tend to find myself, along with my thirst, floating most of the time when on the hook. I can't be bothered to wait for someone on board to fetch me a cold one.
  13. Toddavid

    Convince me: AGM vs lead acid

    Yes, load on the engine is proportional to the output of the alternator. The higher the output from the alternator, the more "drag" on the shaft that the engine needs to overcome, costing power (and creating emissions). https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1536/how-much-power-hp-do-the-components-on-the-engine-belt-generally-use
  14. Toddavid

    Convince me: AGM vs lead acid

    Load on the engine is determined by how much voltage is being sent to the windings via the voltage regulator. Less voltage, less demand, less load. Apparently, modern alternators can take a cue from the engine ECM in response to electrical needs and modulate the voltage output much better than the older designs, and hence lower the load on the engine when conditions permit (and then lower corresponding emissions, the holy grail of modern internal combustion performance). Here: https://gearsmagazine.com/magazine/a-common-sense-approach-to-charging-system-diagnosis/
  15. Toddavid

    Convince me: AGM vs lead acid

    From what I am reading online, modern alternators are computer controlled and output only voltages needed to recharge the battery. So if the battery is strong, at full charge, the alternator puts out less voltage. This also puts less load on the engine, which help fuel economy (emissions). Old school exciter type alternators went into charge mode no matter the charge state of the battery. So if you saw lower voltage with the older alternators it was because it was struggling to keep up with the load demands of a drained battery and other electrical needs (or you had a bad alternator). All I did was swap in fresh Interstate batteries, and now my voltage is in the low 13v range, where it was 13.9V on the old batteries. 12.5V on both new batteries when at rest, after sitting for a few hours, so they are fully charged.
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