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    St. Louis, MO

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  1. First off, are you talking about the shorter closet across from the galley or are you talking about an actual cabinet? It is to keep something from scratching when stored in there. The cabin table stores in the shorter closet when not being used. Can you include a picture of the cabinet you are referring to.
  2. This site has almost become a waste of my time, used to be the second site I would visit after my local St. Louis boating site. This has become terrible, so much garbage and junk, why do people do this. Today in St. Louis we hit 65 degrees, had lunch on my boat, hoist is frozen in the ice but that didn't stop me from going to the harbor. Retirement and boating go great together. Please do anything we can to get the garbage off this site that has been great the past 9 years.
  3. Just got done talking to my carpenter friend that recently installed new Armstrong oak flooring in my home. I have an almost full box left, he suggest giving him enough wood to build me a rectangular table that is approximately 20" X 36", the boards are tongue and groove and he can use a thin piece of material under the boards or use the same boards for holding them together underneath on each end. The weight bill be about 1/3 of what it is now, he can also radius the corners and then steam some thin pieces of oak trim for the edge so I can stain to match. I did some research and oak is rec
  4. After all these years I have finally decided the table in my cockpit is too large and heavy, especially for a single pole system. I'm looking for ideas on what others may have used as a replacement table, thinking about 24" round and looking to stay in a boating material or theme. The original table also doubles as the center piece for the V-birth so he needs to be sturdy but I never use it for sleeping. I have located some restaurant table sites that sell 24" round teak but they want $125 for shipping. I plan on using my current hardware and single pole system. Let me know what other
  5. Not sure about yours but I would suspect it is on the actual air conditioner unit itself, mine is a black plastic screen that slides in front of the coils, amazing how dirty they can get. I originally thought it may be in the return air but that vent just opens into the space where the unit itself is mounted. I just recently purchased replacement filter material from Dometic and can now cut my own. They can be cleaned with a hose to remove all the dirt, etc.
  6. Panel should have a push button for A/C and one for heat, press desired button and set temperature requested, if you have a panel marked SMX II you can find helpful information on a website for Flight Systems, they offer many replacement parts and panel plus some really good directions and trouble shooting tips
  7. you should always connect shore power with the breaker turned to off in the outside electric box and the breakers turned to off inside the boat in the panel, once shore power is connected properly then turn on breaker in outside box then go into cabin, turning on the power breaker first and then each individual breaker, never hook up shore power with electric on
  8. That is correct, you should have dedicated breakers on your panel for each system, depending upon the age of your battery charger you may wish to consider an updated smart charger that helps greatly in performance and care of your batteries, both house and starting. I have a Xantrex charger that I installed about 5 years ago and really pleased with it. I also make it a habit of checking fluid levels in my batteries the first of each month, adding only distilled water. When I de-winterize my boat in early April I turn on the refrigerator and do not turn it off till mid-November when I winter
  9. no, if you have an inverter it is still drawing 12 volt power, this why your dedicated house battery or batteries for the house should be at least group 27 deep cycle, I also recommend switching cabin lights to LED to reduce battery consumption and heat, your fresh water system only draws power when turned on, you will be fine, also, your refrigerator should be AC/DC and will switch automatically when shore power is turned on
  10. your cabin and cockpit lights plus water system are 12 volt, you need house battery for those to operate
  11. For a new cockpit cover you should look locally to an upholstery shop that will custom make and fit one for your boat. Cecil Marine is a great resource for some items, also searching the internet is a great option also. I have a 1996 Signature 25 and have had zero issues getting what I need since buying my boat in 2012.
  12. If this is an uncovered slip you are asking for problems, serious problems if you do not cover it. You would be amazed how much water will a 2" rain will put in your boat, that is asking a lot of your battery and bilge especially if you do not have shore power or an onboard charger. I think you are making a huge mistake by not investing in a proper cover, along with the rain you will have many birds and animal life loving the relaxing spot you have given them to relax. You are risking sinking your boat or at least having enough water in it to damage electrical components. Boats cost money,
  13. Depends on how the batteries are wired in regards to the battery selector switch, my house battery is charged along with my starting battery when I am cruising on battery switch 1. I have 2 batteries and my switch options are 1, both, and 2. 2 is my house battery, 1 is my starting battery. I use battery 1 for starting and cruising and then 2 for anchoring or while I am at the dock. You should also have on onboard charger that works on AC power, it should be used all the time while at the dock and should maintain all of your batteries, all of this is dependent on how it is currently wired.
  14. The A/C works on shore power, you will have circuit breakers in your shore panel, it is also draws water via a thru hull scupper, system will need to be primed which is accomplished by running the boat up on plane.
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