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  1. Try a different approach: set the drive to various positions between 50-75% down, where 50% is the floating boat level. Keep the tabs all the way down as you had them. A boat needs forward thrust and speed to plane, and the drives all the way down try to lift the stern at the cost of forward thrust and speed. Let the tabs do the lifting. The faster the boat goes the more lift tabs will generate. Once on plane with a reasonable load and under normal conditions, set the drives to be more less parallel to the boat's forward motion. Keep adjusting up and down till you hear the engine running smoother and the RPM getting higher aka a sweet spot.
  2. You might need to go lower, underneath the bottom of storage compartment under the seats, to have the thruster tunnel below the water line. Measure twice and cut once.
  3. Rambo

    surge brakes

    DITTO - the extra wire in the truck harness energized when in reverse gear and activates brakes lockout (reverse lockout) solenoid if a trailer is equipped with one. There are three ways to allow a trailer with surge brakes to back up. There can be an electric reverse lockout (solenoid), a manual lockout pin or lock, or a free-backing brake assembly if the brakes are drums. Some more practical info here: https://www.etrailer.com/question-42886.html
  4. What he said above - ecm, radio, anti corrosion system (VP or Merc, either brand sucks electricity), and the biggest offenders might be the two wired CO detectors you have inside the cabin. Replace them with a newer type that has built in 10-year battery inside. That alone might give you 20-30% longer battery life while in storage. You can reuse the CO detectors wiring for USB chargers. Just make sure the USB charger is marine type and is paired with a switch and has power on indicator light. The existing CO detector wiring on your boat bypasses any battery switches.
  5. Be careful what you wish for. The 60 MPH on water is just a few MPH and one confused wave away from flying. The two 350 should give you top speed in the high 50's, perhaps 60+ in perfect sea conditions with wind from behind. Keep in mind, it is a relatively light boat, especially at the bow. It will want to fly given the opportunity.
  6. Rambo

    Lost Anchor

    A long serrated bread knife saved my anchor more than once. Not because I had no other knifes, I did, including a survival knife on my belt. Because it was long and serrated and could be used as a wood saw. I guess nobody was a smoker in that cove. A source of flame including cigarette lighter could be used (carefully) to split nylon and poly lines.
  7. I can't help with selection of a better service in MS but I can suggest to go there without advanced warning and inspect the boat to see what the heck they did already and why they cannot work on your boat now. Just look at the engine, pump, hoses and everything around first then talk to the service manager and the person who made this assessment. Good luck.
  8. The engine/drive brand/model info required to guesstimate the performance with a given hull. Rule of thumb - mid 50's on the water and mid 70's on the highway with good tow rig -
  9. The data you need should come from Chaparral directly. Anything else could be approximation, estimation, or just plain wrong. Try prying the hull/trailer data sheet for your MY from them. This is an example for MY 2007 hull/trailer data sheet, somebody else might have use for it. The chart is for 2007 boats and not likely to represent your boat's dimensions as Chaparral changed hull designs and models around 2005/2006. WTH, working on adding the picture, please wait, processing, grrr!!! Getting an image to and from the local gallery here sucks, but here it is:
  10. Nice setup, thanks for the write-up.
  11. There were similar deficiencies in radar arch installations on larger bow riders and cruisers a few years back. Thin and tiny washers, oversized holes, and no backing plates. Shaky installations by shi++y boat builder.
  12. The hammer sounding is more of an art than science. Good educated guess at best and will not indicate just water intrusion nor degree of damage until there is a significant damage; rot or delamination or some other material damage. Drilling or coring the hull in multiple spots and checking for wet material and water content is the only way to learn what is going on inside the hull. Good point on freeze damage. Where is the boat located? If not a stress crack of the thick gelcoat due to engine weight load on somehow flexible wood, then either wet wood expansion and contraction or freezing and thawing. The same end result, just more sever in four season climate. Again, proceed with caution if at all.
  13. Just to add to your headache - the cracking around wooden insert at the bottom of the bilge that serves as a base for a bilge pump is troublesome as well. After looking at the pictures again, it would worry me even more than the engine block support cracking since these cracks are often submerged in bilge water for long periods of time. This is a culprit responsible for high moisture readings along the keel. I would not be surprised to find water inside the hull between its honeycomb core and inside/outside FRP layers of the hull. I would say proceed with caution, share the above concerns with the surveyor and with the fiberglass guy and seek their feedback. BTW, where is the bilge pump? It is often installed on that wooden insert in front of an engine on many Chaparral models.
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