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  1. Be careful what you wish for. The 60 MPH on water is just a few MPH and one confused wave away from flying. The two 350 should give you top speed in the high 50's, perhaps 60+ in perfect sea conditions with wind from behind. Keep in mind, it is a relatively light boat, especially at the bow. It will want to fly given the opportunity.
  2. Rambo

    Lost Anchor

    A long serrated bread knife saved my anchor more than once. Not because I had no other knifes, I did, including a survival knife on my belt. Because it was long and serrated and could be used as a wood saw. I guess nobody was a smoker in that cove. A source of flame including cigarette lighter could be used (carefully) to split a nylon and poly lines.
  3. I can't help with selection of a better service in MS but I can suggest to go there without advanced warning and inspect the boat to see what the heck they did already and why they cannot work on your boat now. Just look at the engine, pump, hoses and everything around first then talk to the service manager and the person who made this assessment. Good luck.
  4. The engine/drive brand/model info required to guesstimate the performance with a given hull. Rule of thumb - mid 50's on the water and mid 70's on the highway with good tow rig -
  5. The data you need should come from Chaparral directly. Anything else could be approximation, estimation, or just plain wrong. Try prying the hull/trailer data sheet for your MY from them. This is an example for MY 2007 hull/trailer data sheet, somebody else might have use for it. The chart is for 2007 boats and not likely to represent your boat's dimensions as Chaparral changed hull designs and models around 2005/2006. WTH, working on adding the picture, please wait, processing, grrr!!! Getting an image to and from the local gallery here sucks, but here it is:
  6. Nice setup, thanks for the write-up.
  7. There were similar deficiencies in radar arch installations on larger bow riders and cruisers a few years back. Thin and tiny washers, oversized holes, and no backing plates. Shaky installations by shi++y boat builder.
  8. The hammer sounding is more of an art than science. Good educated guess at best and will not indicate just water intrusion nor degree of damage until there is a significant damage; rot or delamination or some other material damage. Drilling or coring the hull in multiple spots and checking for wet material and water content is the only way to learn what is going on inside the hull. Good point on freeze damage. Where is the boat located? If not a stress crack of the thick gelcoat due to engine weight load on somehow flexible wood, then either wet wood expansion and contraction or freezing and thawing. The same end result, just more sever in four season climate. Again, proceed with caution if at all.
  9. Just to add to your headache - the cracking around wooden insert at the bottom of the bilge that serves as a base for a bilge pump is troublesome as well. After looking at the pictures again, it would worry me even more than the engine block support cracking since these cracks are often submerged in bilge water for long periods of time. This is a culprit responsible for high moisture readings along the keel. I would not be surprised to find water inside the hull between its honeycomb core and inside/outside FRP layers of the hull. I would say proceed with caution, share the above concerns with the surveyor and with the fiberglass guy and seek their feedback. BTW, where is the bilge pump? It is often installed on that wooden insert in front of an engine on many Chaparral models.
  10. If that is an experienced marine fiberglass guy, he should be able to assess the problem and provide range of scenarios based on his experience. Just make sure to ask what is the worst case scenario in his opinion. Let us know what is his assessment on Monday.
  11. You will not be able to really inspect it and know for sure until you can get under the surface ... not likely the owner will allow. If the wood under this engine is really wet and/or rotten you do not want to buy this boat. If that is just a stress crack and no water damage yet, you could get the cost estimates to fix the cracks and lower your offer. In any case, get a second informed opinion before making the decision.
  12. There are pieces of wood in every Chaparral hull regardless what the surveyor had copied from their marketing materials. The engine block supports are the primary example, as documented in the first pictures. You need to take care of them. Probe with a small diameter drill and assess how dry or wet the wood is. That could be just the stress cracking of too thick layer of gelcoat but still, this needs to be sealed. If no obvious wood rot, open the cracks up, remove lose material, and let the wood dry over the winter. Fill in and reseal the cracks with poly resin and apply gelcoat after, or if you do not care about the looks, use epoxy resin to fill in and refinish the cracks. In the meantime, keep the engine bay as dry as possible.
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