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  1. Yes, it does look like a map/chart problem. The chart on the screen shot posted looks like a base map, or digitized paper marine chart, or, at the very best, a good chart that was zoomed way out. First and foremost, make sure you are actually running G2 Bluechart with charts for Canadian waters. Not sure what you mean by "that was with the 5212 Chartplotter". The chart should have Garmin chart number and the name of the area it covers. The good charts often do not come loaded into the chartplotter's memory, or are of very limited area, and almost never include Canadian waters. The good wide area charts are not free and come on, or need to be downloaded onto an SD card that gets inserted into chartplotter before it is powered on. If you are not using SD card that contains the G2 Bluechart for Canadian waters (identified with specific chart number and named covered area) than you are looking at the base map of your area, or chances are that you are not using G2 Bluechart at all. There is some info on a startup screen about what chart is being loaded/used. Second, try zooming in on your position. The chart detail in your screen capture is not how a G2 Bluechart should look like. Hopefully, you will get more detail/info in zoomed in view and a recalculated position to reflect more precise location of your boat. Third, explore firmware upgrade as suggested. The 5212 supported G2 Bluecharts from the get go so I do not suspect this is the problem but it never hurts to get a current firmware on the plotter. If all of the above fail, just call Garmin support while on the boat. They will guide you and troubleshoot it with you.
  2. Easy test for those with Garmin (or other brand) plotter with marine charts stored on SD card. Look at the breadcrumbs of past voyages on the hi-def marine chart, then take the SD card with charts out, and look at the breadcrumbs again. You will be surprised to discover where your boat had been cruising on the base map (hint: base map contours are often off by hundreds of feet).
  3. This does not look like a compass problem. This does not look like a GPS receiver problem that would be fixed by using external 8' Shakespeare VHF antenna. This looks to me like a chart problem. What is depicted above is just a base map and not a marine chart. Make sure you are loading a paid for detailed marine chart and not a free base map which is just a land/water contour without much details.
  4. RE: Some boat insurance policies cover engines and generators against freezing damage during storage as long as the winterization was performed by a qualified marine service, paid for, and there is a work order or invoice to prove it.
  5. Rambo

    winterize AC

    Over the years I have tried both methods but found the outlet to scupper gravity method the easiest. No need to undo any hoses, no need for any gizmos to mount on a sea strainer that never worked well anyway. Just one 5 feet hose, stuck and sealed into the a/c outlet on one end, and a funnel stuck into it on the other raised end. Extend the hose 4 feet or so above the outlet and let gravity do its job. The AF will flow down and outside through the A/C scupper under the hull and it takes half a gallon or less to flush the system. Just make sure you know which one is A/F thruhull outlet. It is often the smallest diameter one.
  6. Looks to me the both points of view are valid and open to interpretation. What does the "slams shut" mean? Another aspect is the raw water pump efficiency at different RPM values. I would say that with incoming raw water temperature being constant, the raw water pump efficiency at user selected RPM is the only variable and has more impact on success (or not) of "muffs method" that the t-stat itself which only reacts to the user created conditions. Based on our experimentation that one year, we've got fairly consistent results across six VP 8.1L engines of different model years. I do not have notes on me and will try to describe the findings using approximate RPM values. All test were done using well water at around 50F. The engines tend to achieve the thermal equilibrium at any RPM where the t-stat opens to various degrees and keeps the thermal status quo. Things get interesting when the RPM change is significant. Our findings were that after running the engine at 2500 or higher RPM to warm it up, the change to 2000 RPM created rapid temperature fall from 165-170F to 125F in 12 seconds, in other words the t-stat slammed shut in 12 seconds, and then the temp started to raise again after a brief rest. That was too short period of time for AF treatment, and this 12 second short cooling period did not feel as a good thing for the engine either. Reducing RPM to 1200 after the warmup extended the cooling period to 45+ seconds. Going down to idle 650 RPM after warmup gave us a couple of minutes before the temp went down to 125F again. Worth noting here is that the temperature started raising at first reaching the uncomfortable level before it leveled off and started to crawl down slowly. We settled for around 800-900 as the optimum RPM for the AF flush after engine warmup. The AF being warmer than water gave us some extra time to orderly dump 8 plus gallons of AF per engine. All engines, pumps, and impellers are different, the individual experimentation to establish optimum operating RPM is necessary.
  7. I wish we thought about it then. Good idea when not familiar with all the drain points. Do you need to cover or seal the t-stat port when engine is running during AF flush procedure?
  8. TRUE FALSE Yes, and yes. We use "muff method" BUT our toys are stored in a "cave" where temperature stays usually steady 45 degree during winter, and never have fallen below 40 degree. The cave is our first line of defense, the AF is secondary, just in case, and used primarily to inhibit the corrosion. One year we had to store the toys outside in a fabric building, and had to used the muff method only to winterize them. We had no means to research and do it the right way. That was preceded by experimentation and careful observation of engine temperature changes at different RPM sequences until we were reasonably sure when the falling temp gauge indicates open t-stat and not just increased cooling flow, and knew how much time it stays open at given RPM. It took more like 8-9 gallons of AF per big block engine to get the feeling that all resident water got flushed out. Another helpful factor is that our deep well water is always cold, much colder than AF which was stored at room temperature, actually in the warm boiler/storage room. Yes, we were mindful and still we were lucky.
  9. All depends on the manufacturing year. Chaparral Boats had change their boats design around 2006, and the relation between model number and LOA around 2010. My selective understanding is: I know next to nothing about pre 2006 models. The 2006 276 is same boat as 2007/8/9 270 - nearly 29 feet LOA. The 2007/8/9 250 - is two feet shorter. All are narrow hull around 8.5 feet, single engine. The 280 (and higher) of same period would be a wide hull with two engines, around 30 feet (and longer) LOA. The 250 had been renumbered as 270 (no kidding!) starting in 2010. The previous 270 had been removed from the lineup. If you need more specs for any boat since the 90's, go to Chaparral Boats main websites and look for yearly boat brochures.
  10. It could be, in an extremely unusual situation. Read about acetone vapor explosion ignited by a power tool on a boat being built by a private person. What mitigates the risk is the fact that just before using a drill your nose will be down there a feet or two above bilge detecting potential hazard. When a nose is in open air some 5-6 feet above a deck that is some 4 feet above bilge, it might miss the early telltale sign of hazard. Just being informed makes a whole lot of difference.
  11. As already observed above, it is not about gasoline leak per se, it is about gasoline vapor, or propane vapor if propane is present on a boat. It is not about engineers messing up, it is about ignorant DIYers and careless boat operators who statistically are responsible for the overwhelming majority of boat fires. The engineers did their job while designing all boat components, they "ignition protected" all possible sources of ignition. Now, it is up to the individual boat owner or operator to keep up with that requirement and not introduce unprotected sources of vapor ignition. Here is what some might say boring, otherwise insightful explanation copied from one of the links provided earlier. "Ignition protection - the design and construction of a device such that under design operating conditions: a. it will not ignite a flammable hydrocarbon mixture surrounding the device when an ignition source causes an internal explosion, or b. it is incapable of releasing sufficient electrical or thermal energy to ignite a hydrocarbon mixture, or c. the source of ignition is hermetically sealed What this means: If gasoline vapor is present in a space all of the electrical equipment in the space must be ignition protected to avoid causing a fire. Unless specifically labelled "Ignition Protected" all electrical equipment is assumed to be capable of causing small sparks which can start a fire. Even fuses can cause a fire when they blow unless they are specifically designated as ignition protected fuses. The standard also applies to spaces with CNG or propane in specified concentrations. Ignition protected equipment is specially designed to prevent sparks either because the electrical connections are in a hermetically sealed container or because they have been designed to prevent heat transfer to the atmosphere. To comply with the standard gasoline powered boats must have ignition protected equipment in the engine compartment, and the engine compartment must be sealed from any spaces in which non-ignition protected equipment is located. Any boats with gasoline stored below decks must have only ignition protected equipment in the area where the gasoline is stored. The storage area must be sealed from any other area where non-ignition protected equipment is located." Sticking a tube that can suck gasoline (that vaporizes while being transferred) or gasoline fumes from an engine compartment and blow them around non-ignition protected electric motor is equally risky regardless of the location of that motor, inside or outside of the engine compartment.
  12. SAFELY? Use of ShopVac in engine compartment of gasoline powered boat is just asking for trouble. Stupid and potentially DEADLY idea! https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/514241-cleaning-fuel-tank-shop-vac.html https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/forum/current-topics-gc6/general-boating-topics-gc9/190567-wet-dry-shop-vac-to-empty-the-last-of-bilge-water-gctid613335 https://jalopnik.com/dont-vacuum-gasoline-watch-and-youll-understand-1787806785
  13. Duh, ain't that obvious. One will use "Oops" as assembled to enlarge a hole on the same center point only. One will use two separate arbors to enlarge an existing hole with new one drilled off center. A 2" arbor to cut the plywood to be used as a base for an off center pilot hole for a new off center hole drilled with larger 2 13/16" arbor, as restated below:
  14. Off center hole over hole simulation pictured below. I think I would be tempted to try it and effectively cut out most of significant damage. Once you have the larger arbor try a dry fit to see how it all works for real.
  15. Right, the 3/8" FRP is not much for that boat. It would be close to 1" with Nida-Core: 3/16" to 1/4" FRP on each side with 1/2" Nida-Core in between, and much, much stronger. At least no worries about laminate layers separation. "Oops" is a great idea. If the 2 13/16" hole drilled off center would cover the existing hole and most if not all of exposed fiberglass and gel coat damage, there is another idea you could try. Use 2" arbor to cut the circle out of plywood. Then glue the circle inside the existing hole using any suitable glue or poly (epoxy might be too hard). Then using 2 13/16" arbor try and fit a new hole so it spans from farthest point on the edge of existing hole from the center of gel coat damage area. That way the new hole will cut out all the glued plywood and, hopefully, most if not all of the damaged material. Fits well, looks good. What are you going to do withe the existing gauges that are there right now?
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