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  1. That's great, it gives you time to drain and dry the hull before resealing. If the hull is wet when inspected, remove the truhulls, drain and vacuum the water, and leave the holes open for a while to let the moisture out.
  2. The "last" picture on top is a transducer for the depth finder. I do not know how the hull is constructed around the rudder shaft mounts but the two other cases, the generator water scooper and the transducer, might not be a solid fiberglass and might not be enforced. Keep that in mind and try to determine if the hull is solid or not around these three leaking thruhulls. The Chap hulls are not always made of solid fiberglass below the waterline as their marketing gobbledygook implies. Often it is a nidacore or similar material sandwiched between two thin layers of fiberglass. If that
  3. Looks like a bolt-on swim platform. You would see the interior of an integrated swim platform from the engine compartment looking at/above stern. The potential leak points on a bolt-on are the platform mounting bolts and struts (if any) mounting bolts. They should be visible from the inside of engine compartment, and easy to assess if leaking or not. The rudder and shafts packing is something I would worry more about and inspect them more frequently.
  4. Your boat has a rudder? Not often seen on US express cruisers. What brand/model of the power plant it has (engine, drive train)?
  5. Okay, got it - it is the bilge and the bilge pump. The water leaking in bow area and coming down/aft is a real possibility. The usual suspects is the anchor locker not being well fabricated (not well covered/sealed with gelcoat), or its drain holes (covered with the clam shells outside) are drilled too low and are penetrating the floor of the locker breaching the floor/hull corner. The drain holes are often not finished/sealed with gelcoat as well. Just look around the anchor locker and examine the drain holes. You said no rain but if it rains or when you take a wave/mist over the bo
  6. Yes and No ... there is only one bilge just above the keel from bow to stern. It might be divided into section but all sections are connected by the weeping holes. The lowest part or section of the bilge will collect all water eventually, usually the section under the engine is the lowest part of the bilge while boat is in water. Not sure what exactly I am looking at ... is this a bilge pump or a sump pump? Could it be related to the head sink and shower discharge?
  7. Swim ladder leaking around unsealed mounting holes into the integrated swim platform and then down to the bilge. It's one of the common Chaparral defects. A leaky rubrail around the swim platform would be my next suspect. Try to look up from the bilge and inside of the integrated swim platform for signs of wetness, mold, discoloration, etc.
  8. It happens - based on the amount of damage, your case sounds more serious than most. VP drive has been designed to move up when hitting something but still check the gimbal for any damage/cracks/etc and transom plate for shift and leaks. Good luck with the insurance.
  9. Any space/area designed for people to sit down with some freeboard or railing around them is certainly legal. Sitting on the top of a bow or a swim platform with the appendages hanging outside of a rubrail is certainly unsafe while underway, and in most cases would be considered a violation of safe boating practice. Hope you are not a spambot - time will tell.
  10. In the gas tank, accessible from the top of the tank and often closer to the center front of the tank.
  11. Gas tank vent line? Perhaps clogged, kinked, or badly sagging with fuel inside blocking the air flow?
  12. Moored for a while, the lake dried up
  13. If a boat has a head and waste water tank, there must be a fresh water tank on that boat. Usually the waste and water tanks are located on the floor of engine compartment on the opposite sides and are clearly visible. The fuel tank is installed in the bilge below engine compartment floor and is not readily visible unless you trace the fuel/vent lines up to the tank fittings. There are downloadable brochures and manuals on Chaparral's main site. Not sure if the materials for your boat's year are there or not. Worth checking.
  14. No idea. From what I know based on the boat I ride the most that is wired for shore power: if the red fault light is solid ON, there is a fault in shore power circuit, if the red fault light blinks ON and OFF, this indicates no shore power connected or not energized. The final test for me is: the green light must be ON when shore power is connected and 120vac boat circuit is energized.
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