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Everything posted by Rambo

  1. Short comment: Why would anyone want a surgeon to wear a face mask and gloves during surgery? Not a foolproof and stupid idea, right? Long comment: There is plenty of data documenting how face mask minimizes spread (distance and load) of aerosols that contain particles and viruses. Efficacy of masks and face coverings in controlling outward aerosol particle emission from expiratory activities: https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-020-72798-7 . This is the first link I found, there is plenty of other more or less scientific studies that show the efficacy of face mas
  2. WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN SMOKING? Nobody is taking 2nd Amendment away, machine guns perhaps but not guns in general. Good read about "Reich" and a bit of 20th Century History of Europe: 1918 Germany Has a Warning for America - https://www.nytimes.com/2020/11/30/opinion/trump-conspiracy-germany-1918.html?smid=tw-share No, it is not confusing. The national socialists (nazis) were neither socialists nor communists, they were nationalists of very far-right orientation. The movement was born out of despair and exploited by one charismatic leader promoting pan-germanism. Draw your own concl
  3. Not sure what route you have in mind. Thousands of "loopers" crossed northern leg of Great Loop and crisscrossed all waters of the Great Lakes basin in small and large boats, including sailboats. The biggest obstacle is not the depth of water but the bridge clearances that limit some bigger/taller boats and sailboats. Another obstacle is supply of fuel. Gasoline powered planing hull needs to be refueled every 100 miles on average using the "2/3 of fuel for trip, 1/3 of fuel for emergency" rule. There is a network of shipping channels that the lakers and ocean going ships use to cross
  4. That sounds right to me. Wonder what are other people's opinions and experience.
  5. Not Chaparral, not a planing hull, not gasoline powered unless you need to go fast and expensive way. The displacement trawler and semi-displacement cruiser would deal with the seas better and at far lower cost of fuel. A diesel engine would be my preference for this type of extended voyage.
  6. Oak will work well, just do not use any paint or lacquer. Treat it and protect it like teak. Raw linseed oil works well with oak - might stink a bit till it penetrates the wood and the excess is wiped out.
  7. If surrounding water does not freeze throughout the winter and you do not have extended spells of temperatures way below freezing, the boat "should" be fine. For occasional spells of below freezing the engine room electric heater is a cheap insurance but you do not have that option when moored on the river. I doubt you can drain the engine and keep it drained while the boat is in water - the water line is most likely somewhere above bottom of the engine water jacket - disconnecting a water intake hose might be an option. There is also a water intake itself and/or an outdrive to worry abou
  8. As said above - do not be afraid to ask questions here on the forum. You might get multiple replies with various and usually meaningful perspectives. Keep us posted on how it goes, and ask away.
  9. Not a concern if it was used on a lake especially in 4-season climate where boats are winterized for long winter storage. More important question is, was the boat winterized professionally/properly? If it was, the process of draining lake water from and filling the engine cooling system with marine AF effectively would flushed any water and mineral content from the system and the marine AF would prevent any corrosion during winter storage. The regular engine flushing is not a typical practice on fresh water boats. Not sure how the boat was used in Florida as stated in the quote below.
  10. 1. Major undertake and expense to install a marine generator after the fact. The cost of marine generator is one thing. The cost of the after the fact retrofit of electrical systems (significant changes to DC and AC wiring and control panels), fuel line install, cooling water line and intake install, and complete exhaust installation is another even if you still have the dedicated space left uncluttered in the engine compartment. Hiring a professional marine electrician is a strong suggestion. Other trades as well as the multiple holes need to be drilled in the hull, some below water line, and
  11. Look for the bonding buss where green bonding wires converge and NOT for the DC negative aka ground buss where yellow (or old days, black) wires converge. See both busses in a picture below showing example of Chaparral electrical rigging. The resistance between the GREEN bonding buss and the tank should be next to nothing. If no continuity, bond the tank yourself or get some professional help. If the tank's boding wire connection point is buried you might be able to rig one using tank's existing metal fittings - get a professional opinion on that first.
  12. Try a different approach: set the drive to various positions between 50-75% down, where 50% is the floating boat level. Keep the tabs all the way down as you had them. A boat needs forward thrust and speed to plane, and the drives all the way down try to lift the stern at the cost of forward thrust and speed. Let the tabs do the lifting. The faster the boat goes the more lift tabs will generate. Once on plane with a reasonable load and under normal conditions, set the drives to be more less parallel to the boat's forward motion. Keep adjusting up and down till you hear the engine running smoot
  13. You might need to go lower, underneath the bottom of storage compartment under the seats, to have the thruster tunnel below the water line. Measure twice and cut once.
  14. DITTO - the extra wire in the truck harness energized when in reverse gear and activates brakes lockout (reverse lockout) solenoid if a trailer is equipped with one. There are three ways to allow a trailer with surge brakes to back up. There can be an electric reverse lockout (solenoid), a manual lockout pin or lock, or a free-backing brake assembly if the brakes are drums. Some more practical info here: https://www.etrailer.com/question-42886.html
  15. What he said above - ecm, radio, anti corrosion system (VP or Merc, either brand sucks electricity), and the biggest offenders might be the two wired CO detectors you have inside the cabin. Replace them with a newer type that has built in 10-year battery inside. That alone might give you 20-30% longer battery life while in storage. You can reuse the CO detectors wiring for USB chargers. Just make sure the USB charger is marine type and is paired with a switch and has power on indicator light. The existing CO detector wiring on your boat bypasses any battery switches.
  16. Be careful what you wish for. The 60 MPH on water is just a few MPH and one confused wave away from flying. The two 350 should give you top speed in the high 50's, perhaps 60+ in perfect sea conditions with wind from behind. Keep in mind, it is a relatively light boat, especially at the bow. It will want to fly given the opportunity.
  17. A long serrated bread knife saved my anchor more than once. Not because I had no other knifes, I did, including a survival knife on my belt. Because it was long and serrated and could be used as a wood saw. I guess nobody was a smoker in that cove. A source of flame including cigarette lighter could be used (carefully) to split nylon and poly lines.
  18. I can't help with selection of a better service in MS but I can suggest to go there without advanced warning and inspect the boat to see what the heck they did already and why they cannot work on your boat now. Just look at the engine, pump, hoses and everything around first then talk to the service manager and the person who made this assessment. Good luck.
  19. The engine/drive brand/model info required to guesstimate the performance with a given hull. Rule of thumb - mid 50's on the water and mid 70's on the highway with good tow rig -
  20. The data you need should come from Chaparral directly. Anything else could be approximation, estimation, or just plain wrong. Try prying the hull/trailer data sheet for your MY from them. This is an example for MY 2007 hull/trailer data sheet, somebody else might have use for it. The chart is for 2007 boats and not likely to represent your boat's dimensions as Chaparral changed hull designs and models around 2005/2006. WTH, working on adding the picture, please wait, processing, grrr!!! Getting an image to and from the local gallery here sucks, but here it is:
  21. Nice setup, thanks for the write-up.
  22. There were similar deficiencies in radar arch installations on larger bow riders and cruisers a few years back. Thin and tiny washers, oversized holes, and no backing plates. Shaky installations by shi++y boat builder.
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