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Everything posted by Rambo

  1. What he said above - ecm, radio, anti corrosion system (VP or Merc, either brand sucks electricity), and the biggest offenders might be the two wired CO detectors you have inside the cabin. Replace them with a newer type that has built in 10-year battery inside. That alone might give you 20-30% longer battery life while in storage. You can reuse the CO detectors wiring for USB chargers. Just make sure the USB charger is marine type and is paired with a switch and has power on indicator light. The existing CO detector wiring on your boat bypasses any battery switches.
  2. Be careful what you wish for. The 60 MPH on water is just a few MPH and one confused wave away from flying. The two 350 should give you top speed in the high 50's, perhaps 60+ in perfect sea conditions with wind from behind. Keep in mind, it is a relatively light boat, especially at the bow. It will want to fly given the opportunity.
  3. Rambo

    Lost Anchor

    A long serrated bread knife saved my anchor more than once. Not because I had no other knifes, I did, including a survival knife on my belt. Because it was long and serrated and could be used as a wood saw. I guess nobody was a smoker in that cove. A source of flame including cigarette lighter could be used (carefully) to split nylon and poly lines.
  4. I can't help with selection of a better service in MS but I can suggest to go there without advanced warning and inspect the boat to see what the heck they did already and why they cannot work on your boat now. Just look at the engine, pump, hoses and everything around first then talk to the service manager and the person who made this assessment. Good luck.
  5. The engine/drive brand/model info required to guesstimate the performance with a given hull. Rule of thumb - mid 50's on the water and mid 70's on the highway with good tow rig -
  6. From the album: DIY

  7. The data you need should come from Chaparral directly. Anything else could be approximation, estimation, or just plain wrong. Try prying the hull/trailer data sheet for your MY from them. This is an example for MY 2007 hull/trailer data sheet, somebody else might have use for it. The chart is for 2007 boats and not likely to represent your boat's dimensions as Chaparral changed hull designs and models around 2005/2006. WTH, working on adding the picture, please wait, processing, grrr!!! Getting an image to and from the local gallery here sucks, but here it is:
  8. From the album: DIY

  9. Nice setup, thanks for the write-up.
  10. There were similar deficiencies in radar arch installations on larger bow riders and cruisers a few years back. Thin and tiny washers, oversized holes, and no backing plates. Shaky installations by shi++y boat builder.
  11. The hammer sounding is more of an art than science. Good educated guess at best and will not indicate just water intrusion nor degree of damage until there is a significant damage; rot or delamination or some other material damage. Drilling or coring the hull in multiple spots and checking for wet material and water content is the only way to learn what is going on inside the hull. Good point on freeze damage. Where is the boat located? If not a stress crack of the thick gelcoat due to engine weight load on somehow flexible wood, then either wet wood expansion and contraction or freezing and thawing. The same end result, just more sever in four season climate. Again, proceed with caution if at all.
  12. Just to add to your headache - the cracking around wooden insert at the bottom of the bilge that serves as a base for a bilge pump is troublesome as well. After looking at the pictures again, it would worry me even more than the engine block support cracking since these cracks are often submerged in bilge water for long periods of time. This is a culprit responsible for high moisture readings along the keel. I would not be surprised to find water inside the hull between its honeycomb core and inside/outside FRP layers of the hull. I would say proceed with caution, share the above concerns with the surveyor and with the fiberglass guy and seek their feedback. BTW, where is the bilge pump? It is often installed on that wooden insert in front of an engine on many Chaparral models.
  13. If that is an experienced marine fiberglass guy, he should be able to assess the problem and provide range of scenarios based on his experience. Just make sure to ask what is the worst case scenario in his opinion. Let us know what is his assessment on Monday.
  14. You will not be able to really inspect it and know for sure until you can get under the surface ... not likely the owner will allow. If the wood under this engine is really wet and/or rotten you do not want to buy this boat. If that is just a stress crack and no water damage yet, you could get the cost estimates to fix the cracks and lower your offer. In any case, get a second informed opinion before making the decision.
  15. There are pieces of wood in every Chaparral hull regardless what the surveyor had copied from their marketing materials. The engine block supports are the primary example, as documented in the first pictures. You need to take care of them. Probe with a small diameter drill and assess how dry or wet the wood is. That could be just the stress cracking of too thick layer of gelcoat but still, this needs to be sealed. If no obvious wood rot, open the cracks up, remove lose material, and let the wood dry over the winter. Fill in and reseal the cracks with poly resin and apply gelcoat after, or if you do not care about the looks, use epoxy resin to fill in and refinish the cracks. In the meantime, keep the engine bay as dry as possible.
  16. Just a gist - NO! It is a project boat and not in a very good shape. You should not see the rust all over the engine, rusted and not working hatch lifter, and mold/mildew stains everywhere. The gelcoat looks good inside and out. Could be a proverbial lipstick on a pig. Hard to tell without a survey or inspection. Who knows what surprises you will find inside the hull when the accessible areas show lack of maintenance and care. Keep looking. The better boats are out there. Perhaps look for a fresh water boat which was maintained better. Good luck and do not be afraid to come back with more questions.
  17. Looks like an ongoing case of RTFM Look for or download a basic usage manual for your boat that should've come with your boat and is available somewhere on Chaparral site for download. The basic understanding of your boat workings will help you long term and it might save you from getting into the real trouble.
  18. Does not make it right, and manufacturers should hear about it more often. It's an outrages defect and easily avoidable when production methods and work culture are on a par.
  19. The boat position looks okay to me. I always leave an inch or two between the trailer roller and the bow so the trailer has room to twist and bend without pushing the boat up or trying to rip the bow eye (loop) from the boat. If you desire to pull the bow right to the roller try to route the belt over the roller not under. If that does what you want consider changing geometry of the post and roller so the belt is not pulling the boat down. In your configuration the belt under the roller is forcing the boat down. This only increases the friction between hull and bunks while trying to wedge the boat into the trailer. If you route the belt over the roller, the pulling force will move the boat forward and slightly up. The slight lift up instead of push down should be enough to ease the friction and pull the boat tight to the roller - not a good idea IMO.
  20. Impractical, self defeating, self centered, stupid, and so on, and open for discussion, see above. Let's stay with the illegal part - COLREGS Rule 20, Part B specifically, see below: RULE 20 Application (a) Rules in this Part shall be complied with in all weathers. (b) The Rules concerning lights shall be complied with from sunset to sunrise, and during such times no other lights shall be exhibited, except such lights as cannot be mistaken for the lights specified in these Rules or do not impair their visibility or distinctive character, or interfere with the keeping of a proper look-out. (c) The lights prescribed by these Rules shall, if carried, also be exhibited from sunrise to sunset in restricted visibility and may be exhibited in all other circumstances when it is deemed necessary. (d) The Rules concerning shapes shall be complied with by day. (e) The lights and shapes specified in these Rules shall comply with the provisions of Annex I of these Rules shall comply with the provisions of Annex I to these Regulations. Ref: https://www.navcen.uscg.gov/pdf/navRules/navrules.pdf
  21. ......................... oops !!!
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