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yogi799

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    Ontario, Georgian Bay

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  1. SO even if i don't hit anything shall i still do engine alignment every 3-4 years or so? what is your take on it? I am paranoid about hitting the bottom so i am extremely careful and NEVER hit anything (we have rock here in Ontario so it is a big deal to know your water) ALso, what is the coupler? where can i see it? At the back of the motor?
  2. yogi799

    Winterizing a 496

    If you trust the manual it says 5 min at 1300....
  3. yogi799

    Winterizing a 496

    Holy crap, 20 minutes? I have the cool fuel filter module. #%^$&%$, I probably had mine running for a total of 10-15 minutes, but not 20 for sure. Have i NOT been fogging my cylinders all these years??? I though the smoke was the sign of the 2 cycle oil finally reaching the cylinders and burning. Crap. I can't tell how much fuel i've burned because my stupid external tank does not show a measuring scale/window, but even the manual says keep it running for 5 minutes at 1300 RPM so I presume they've measured the exact time when the mixture reaches the entire system , no? Maybe me running it at 1300 speeds up the process considerably and I am ok?
  4. I have checked Wing's manual (http://s526.photobucket.com/user/wingnutmfs/library/Winterization Merc 496256 SSX?sort=3&page=1) and I'd like to know what all should be done to the engine/outdrive besides, engine oil, gear lube and AF. I believe fuel filter should be changed every few years, correct? I have done it once after 3 years of use and it was nice and clean, so maybe I'll wait 5-6 years this time? Wing's manual mentions step #27 Grease gimbal bearing (http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/wingnutmfs/media/cGF0aDpXaW50ZXJpemF0aW9uICAgTWVyYyA0OTYyNTYgU1NYL1N0ZXAyN0dyZWFzZWdpbWJlbC5qcGc=/?ref=1). What is that all about? I have a Bravo 3 drive and i do not see a port like that, What shall I do? Same for step #28 Grease couple spline. What is that (I have a 6.2 l v8) (http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/wingnutmfs/media/cGF0aDpXaW50ZXJpemF0aW9uICAgTWVyYyA0OTYyNTYgU1NYL1N0ZXAyOENvdXBsZXJTcGxpbmUuanBn/?ref=1) Anything else to assure the motor/drive last me a long time? I literally do not do anything other than standard winterizing maintenance. I do not hit stuff so I was told drive alignment is not a necessity. What about the bellows? I barely know what they are, if those are the rubber pieces on the top of the drive then mine still look new. Shall i worry then or leave it (or how to inspect them)? Please advise what and how, thank you! Thanks!
  5. yogi799

    Winterizing a 496

    Martin, question: i use a proper and tested fogging mix but what i find curious is that smoke from exhaust only appears to come out when the engine is up to normal running temp. Initially i thought the new mixture takes THAT long to reach to cylinders (old non-mixed gas in the fuel pump/system, etc) but today when i winterized, i had the engine up to temp first time (smoke showed up only when engine was hot), and then i ran it again on AF instead of water and once again, smoke only appeared 3-4 minutes into it, not immediately, even though i did not disconnect the external tank during both runs so the new gas would be well in the system from the get-go. not a major issue, but i was just very curious. do you have a clue why? smoke only comes out when engine is hot?? some chemistry stuff here or what?
  6. Thanks for the info Wing. Appreciated. Good to know the reasoning behind what I am getting. Returned the blue marine, got the high temp. Cool!
  7. Disc on one axle, no brakes on the other. So, return the marine blue and go red all purpose?
  8. Need advice quickly guys. I have two options at the store (and all other sites I've read). My new hub kits came with red grease but they do not necessarily get mounted on boat trailers, just anything. So, shall i go with: - red , high temp all purpose grease - blueish , marine grease? Both seem to say NLGI 2 grade. I launch in fresh water only. The red high temp stuff is 30% more expensive. So?
  9. OK, thanks guys. Yes, this leak is not caused by air bubbles for sure as it happens CONSISTENTLY throughout the season, including the very end of it. But yes, it seems very small and I do not recall seeing anything milky in the fall when I drain it. OK, I think I will just sleep well and not worry about it. I will also measure exactly how much I add this season.
  10. Should I be concerned? I change my own gear lube, always pump from the bottom with the top bravo 3 fill screw closed. I pump until the fluid come out of the reservoir. So i think i do this the right way. But every year for a few years now I have a consistent slow lube loss. Wingnut has described his technical knowledge of gear lube and i think he said there should be NONE if there are no air bubbles. Well, i should have no air in my system, correct? I lose about 1/2 or 1/3 of a quart PER SEASON (60 hours). Should I be concerned? I think one dealer did pressure test 3 years ago and declared no leaks (but i know I can't trust them overall, and I stopped going there for this and other reasons). So? Is the leak too small to worry about or am I damaging some critical parts?
  11. yogi799

    Sunesta 224

    Same here. My stock depth finder worked fine first 2-3 years and then started showing 1m / 3ft depths at full speed quite often. If I had no blucharts with my garmin gps, I'd get a heart attack but now I am used to it showing bad readings at speed. Not sure why, it worked fine while under warranty (hmmm).
  12. yogi799

    Two winterization questions

    That place is on my list when I finally dig myself out of a financial hole. Plan is to rent a boat for a day. Is may or June ok? That's sorta the only time I could go.
  13. yogi799

    Two winterization questions

    I get what you're saying and I agree. I simply like to have all the information and experts like Wingut are great to have around here to provide it. Don't worry, I don't have sleepless nights because of how I do it - it actually feels great to run the engine on nothing but AF but I just wanted to make sure warm AF does not have any immediate side effects, since very few people do it that way. Winters here can be extremely cold so I just try to make sure the AF has a chance to get in literally everywhere (and YES, the #%^$&%$ water is DRAINED! LOL)
  14. yogi799

    Two winterization questions

    Nah, Wingnut jumped right into the questions, which I always appreciate. OK, so the 120 deg AF is not an issue. THANKS! I suppose the only thing of concern is this Your procedure does however mix by-products of combustion with the antifreeze that you will leave in the system all winter and some level of acid will form but perhaps this is minimal and nothing to worry about. I hope. Let me know if I am mistaken on this one and it's better not to run warm, recirculated AF all things considered.
  15. yogi799

    Two winterization questions

    This thread was NOT to be about the method itself - and it was asked not to be twice in bold ( I guess it is extremely hard to communicate that ). Water IS DRAINED from the block before running AF. Nothing in the original post suggests otherwise.... with the clear intent NOT TO discuss the method itself. Wingnut, if you are around, can you please chime in on the ORIGINAL QUESTIONS IN THE FIRST POST? thanks.
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