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yogi799

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    Ontario, Georgian Bay

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  1. Thanks wing. Here is the dilemma. 1. I've read once that tie down engineering did NOT advise using bearing buddies with their easy lube spindles. So I've gone for regular caps. What gives? I like the idea of some grease pressure being applied onto the bearings but I clearly remember tde materials saying no to bearing buddies. 2. I don't see marine seals in my local stores. Just regular 3500lbs axle bearings and seal kits. Are the marine ones really different? My seals have a spring inside to keep them hugging the spindle.
  2. Clear caps that show you water inside sound like a great idea. Dang. I'd love to see this setup. Cool. Although... LOL... maybe sometimes it's better NOT to know? LOL I recently finished a trip and pulled the boat out of water after a week of anchor at the beach (camping). The boat ramps here are notoriously crooked (one wheel dips deep and the other stays high, making taking the boat out of water a hassle - if you want to have it evenly on the trailer (otherwise, one side take a beating due to increased weight?). Anyhow, the trailer was in the water so deep that both axles were fully submerged for good 5 minutes (if the ramp and trailer are straight, it takes me much less time to get the boat out). So all 4 wheels submerged for 5-10 minutes... are you guys srlsy telling me we ALL don't have any water in our hubs? Do those silly rubber caps on the outside and rubber seals on the inside which use a little spring to hold it "tight" on the spindle ENOUGH to keep the water out? I seriously doubt it!! Is that stuff really water tight? I can't imagine how it would.... Water really needs just a tiny gap...
  3. Ok as always fantastic info guys... So mine are broken in now, shall I leave that tiny play alone or undo the nut again (pain in the $^& really) and tighten only so to remove the play? If I understood correctly, cyclops and wingnut are saying some minimal play is ok to be left alone. Correct me if I'm wrong. Priceless info. Thank you!
  4. Cyclops... Omg.. So you're saying some tiny tire wobble is ok?? I ask because I installed new hubs with brakes last year and tightened the castle nut perfectly... There was no resistance and no wobble. Now, a year later I see a tiny wobble, just checked those wheels last night. I panicked and am thinking things got a bit loose inside (I do have a cotter pin holding the nut of course but I mean bearings and all) and I need to tighten the nut a tiny bit more but you're saying some very minimal wheel play is ok? Mine is very very tiny but it's there.... Leave it alone you say?
  5. Here is my work btw... Shows what I've forgot to do.
  6. Thanks Danny. I'm also anal but I had the other side to do and lots of other crap like packing for a camping trip... If I had nothing else to do... Lol... Then maybe. But likely not lol. You're right. I forgot about the expansion.. Yes I pumped it full afterwards with a grease gun so heat will probably force it to where the seal needs it... I'm generally anal about these things as well. And I can't sleep afterwards if I miss something lol. Crazy. I've had a tonne of trouble with my trailer hubs since I bought the boat 6 yrs ago. Mind you I towed quite a bit per year (3k first 4 years... Per yer that is). Then I started leaving the boat closer to the water so towing was cut by half. But I've had nightmare after nightmare so I've finally took things into my own hands and hoping for better results. I basically thought that trailers were like cars.. Oh boy was a wrong. I greased every year and still had terrible failures... Brakes..hubs... Seals... Bearings.. You name it. Maybe no more...
  7. Yeah... Greased it a bit from the outside... The rear of the hub... Hope that's enough...
  8. I just did my entire hubs (bearings and all) and a brand new spindle. 3500 lbs axles with EZ lube system. I forgot to put some grease on the rubber part of the inner seal. Is that a big deal? My spindle was new so there is no grease in there at all - I put a lot of grease inside the hub and on the bearings of course. Should I reach in from the rear of the hub and try to apply some grease to the seal after the fact (squeeze my fingers in there to push some in)? I did push more grease thru the EZ lube zerk fitting up front so presumably grease has gotten well over to the seal since it returned to the outer part when i stopped pumping? I mean the grease likely bounced off my seal (inside the hub) before returning to me to the front of the spindle.... Worry and remove the hub again or is the seal just fine even though i installed it dry? Would love to avoid the disassembly of course. This is the spindle https://ibb.co/z4ysGK7 This is the back side of the hub. Part of the seal is visible. https://ibb.co/HrBMc5d
  9. OK, so I've watched some videos and it doesn't seem too difficult indeed. Disconnect the speedometer, throttle cable and pull it off with some good supports. Now, Hatem, you took off your props, otherwise your cart would not work, eh? I suppose it ain't a bad idea to take them off once every few years for this job... I have the right sockets for the props so I might do it too (and then the cart can be smaller...) QUESTION: do i need a new gasket set? I saw a guy doing Bravo on a video and he replaced about 5 or more diff small o-rings and bigger gaskets. There was no big overall gasket on his Bravo. QUESTION 2: the videos i saw did not elaborate on how to reconnect the throttle cable. What exactly has to be done, the jaws open , the cable goes in and then the jaws have to be shut close? Or is mine gonna be a different design? Re: speedometer, any hints as to disconnect it? The video also did not show that part.
  10. Or should I buy this? (link 2) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercruiser-Alpha-Bravo-OMC-Alignment-Tool-Gimbal-Bearing-Seal-drivers-/282279674884 Or this? (link 3) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alignment-Tool-Gimbal-Bearing-Seal-Bellow-Tool-Set-Mercruiser-91-805475A1-OMC-/282420031118 Dang, help...
  11. Hatem, thanks. I hope to be there one day. Just really don't want to risk disassembly now for the first time in my life... right before the season when my boat is stored 2 hrs away from me so I don't even have easy access to it starting next week. So I will keep my fingers crossed that my lack of vibrations means all is good for now... Yes, the only reason I wanted to do it is because i thought you had to... Wing.. i know you've mentioned to buy one with bearing installers... but look at this. 20 bucks, worth buying??? I found identical on Amazon for 70 so maybe just get it now and worry about more tools later? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpha-Bravo-OMC-Boat-Engine-Drive-Alignment-Tool-For-Mercruiser-Fast-ship/281799975934?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20190129125700%26meid%3Db1b084b602934d8da189384cc175cbf0%26pid%3D100752%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D270940004316%26itm%3D281799975934&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982
  12. yogi799

    Advanced trailer servicing: spindle replacement

    Mine is like this, better picture this time https://ibb.co/vkcT6yw https://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Tie-Down-Engineering-Spindle-for-3500lb-Torsion-Axles-84-Spindle_p_1199.html
  13. I have a dual torsion axle trailer. Rear axle right wheel must have had a faulty bearing. It disintegrated to pieces without warning and I almost lost a wheel, there were inches of play and the wheel barely hung on thanks to the castle nut saving it for the last few miles. Nothing left of the inner bearings (I really mean nothing), metal on metal, parts were almost welded together from heat. Yes, it was greased every year... I saved the day today by removing all remaining metal crap from the spindle (wasn't easy, had to use heat and pressure tools to remove parts stuck together from extreme heat), filing it back for smoothness and roundness and putting back on a spare hub assembly i had left over from years past. I obviously treat this as a temporary solution and of course rear seal leaks grease on this quick fix. No wonder, I was happy enough the trailer was movable or else i'd get tickets for keeping the boat on the road for too long. Question is: has anybody ever replaced a spindle on a torsion axle? It doesn't seem terribly complicated (there are castle nuts on both sides basically), but I thought I'd rather check. One like this: https://www.easternmarine.com/torsion-axle-spindle-for-1-1-16-x-1-1-16-wheel-bearings-80047a I can't find any YouTube videos on this, most spindles are on leaf spring axles, different parts, etc. So I was hoping for some guidance and info if anyone has it.
  14. OK, guys, fantastic help as always. I will go for it and learn how to do it. Might as well. I do mostly everything on the cars (minus deep engine stuff like head gaskets and electronics of course) so this shouldn't be the end of the world and will give me ultimate peace of time once I master it. Of course doing this now right at the start of the season carries some risk so i wonder if i should just boat until September (and pray I am not abusing any parts... everything seems smooth i think...) and learn in the meantime but not attempt the disassembly mid season if I screw something up (low likelihood but still?). Shops in the area are minimum 2 weeks behind, so they won't help. I guess lemme watch some videos first and start gathering parts. Good to know you guys are available for help any time. Wing, you are a life saver and your advice is helpful and comforting beyond imagination... even just your last post as to what tool to buy, specifically. Can't thank you enough. Please never leave this place, or pls give us lots of heads up if you ever had to... :-)
  15. Ok I see.. Yes I am tempted to do it myself for sure. I do all the car work myself and I did my impeller on this puppy. I think the engine WAS aligned (or checked) after the first year because some out drive bolts were found to be overtightened by the factory (drive was squeaking badly when brought up or down) and they said they checked alignment as they did that work, is that possible? I guess maybe? Although that is a shady place so I can't know for sure. Boat is running butter smooth, like new basically, but i want to keep it that way. Yes, he also mentioned the grease as the most important thing so bang on Wing... Ok, so what do you recommend I do? Watch some videos on Bravo 3 drive removal and get the tool? I know I'd need a cradle? I was always afraid of disassembling the drive, as I feared some connectors inside may get loose etc..... maybe no need to worry too much?
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