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    Ontario, Georgian Bay

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  1. OK now you got me confused guys. I want to secure two locations in particular: 1. my windshield, screws on the bottom (into fiberglass) come loose very quickly, ie. after 2 hrs in choppy water of Georgian bay. I am sooo tired of tightening them and i fear my windshield if gonna fly away. RED or BLUE? I don't ever plan on taking it apart other than for other repairs of parts that also come loose, but otherwise, not. I just want the thing tight for good. 2. my foldable seat in the back, it folds flat and the rear part is held by four long screws that go into something (nutsert??), probably not fiberglass. BLUE or RED? I never plan on taking the seat apart unless as stated above to fix other loose parts of it. I was tempted to use RED 5200 to have the problem over with but now some of you say 4200 BLUE? Georgian Bay is tough on boats... so stuff comes loose. Maybe it does require Red 5200? ALTERNATIVELY, could I use 4200 first to give it a shot and if they come loose again , try 5200?
  2. OK very cool guys. Yeah, it goes into the fiberglass. OK 3M it is then. Many thanks.
  3. Hey bud, i will definitely catch up on it! Yeah, my life has been a nightmare since last summer (divorce) so i had ZERO time or will to read anything, never went on the site unless i had some burning questions, and there were none of course during winter. Good thing is i was able to keep the boat after the divorce!!! LOL Good luck with school and i will read the thread tonight!
  4. OK i will probably try blue then. thx guys.
  5. So I love my Sunesta to death but I am getting SOOO tired of bolts and screws just falling out ALL the time. My windshield has to be retightened several times a season, and recently my foldable rear seat lost 4 big $^& bolts and fell flat underway which freaked me out (it looked like it was going to slide out into the water). Thank God i found the two 3 inch bolts in the engine compartment and was able to fix the seat on the water (far away from land, and I usually carry tools with me for such situations). So, it is safe to start putting some loc-tite on the screws and bolts? I want to say enough is enough, what else is going to fall apart? If not, how else to secure them in postion? I can't always put a nut on the other side as per the design. Loc-tite or not?
  6. What repair? What happened? And are you no longer in FL???
  7. thanks Bud, i am hoping this was the case. makes sense to me but i'd like to see this in the manual as well. just haven't had the time. but i am positive about it thanks to you guys. And yes, the conditions were right as i have never gotten the boat over 85kmh before and it has been 7 years. this time it was 87.5 and my GPS has never made such a mistake before so probably...
  8. Good to know. i hope that's what it was. maybe i need to verify in my manual? if i could find info like that. should be a list of all possible warnings i'm guessing. engine temps stays perfect Phil. And my last impeller was 3-4 years old and when i removed it, it felt like new. i never suck up sand or other crap into my drive, maybe why... been on the water again but only did a WOT for 5-10 seconds and no alarm.
  9. So i had two good trips this season and all was good. 7 years, 380 hrs on the clock. 2 days ago i gun it and boat goes faster than usual, my top is usually 85 kmh, this time it sits at 87.5 GPS, which surprised me. there was a small wind and i was going with it so that might have done it, but then i briefly get an alarm for 2 seconds and it goes silent when i let off. further wot tries did not reproduce the alarm. motor was not hot, oil pressure is good, impeller is only 3 yrs old and boat is not overheating. IS IT possible that the WOT alarm was caused by the tail wind pushing my boat to the new top speed and with it a tad higher RPM perhaps? is there a redline sensor/alarm on these mercuiser power packages? i don't see anything wrong with the motor. so it is possible that my usual 5100 rpm went a tad higher with a tailwind and that triggered the alarm for a split second?
  10. Yup me too. I apply this rule to myself more than anyone else though. My trunks can drip like crazy (XXL, lol) and i prefer to change into dry ones every time i come out (and i jump in a lot). I let the kids do whatever they want, on hot days i assume sun will just dry the carpet up almost immediately. But yeah, that could lead to water in the bilge on some boats, although not in mine. I think deck water goes outside the boat AFAIK on my 244 Sunesta.
  11. thanks guys, wow, great advice all around. so turned out access to the back is extremely simple, you just put your head in the helm storage compartment and back of the radio is there, easily accessible. i had only one big connector for 2 wired remotes and i disconnected it... reconnected... and radio stopped restarting! whoa! so it must have been some short in the connector which was not touched in 7 years. all good now, but great advice should the problem reoccur. thanks guys. this is my unit btw
  12. thanks guys!!! really helpful!
  13. so finally my clarion stereo has began to act up big time, i have the main unit and two "remotes", one in the helm and one in the transom. in the past i've had a problem where if i turned up the volume on the remote (by holding volume up button), it would sometimes not stop and go up to max causing us to go deaf for a moment before the unit could be turned off. but now the whole system started restarting every 5 seconds. someone on the searay forum said 1st step in troubleshooting is to remove the head unit and disconnect both remotes from it in the back, to see if they are causing the problem. does anyone have a better idea of some experience with that POS system? i say POS because it acted up from the very beginning, while it was probably still under warranty (that max volume thing). but now it's too much, needs to be fixed. i don't care for the remotes, i just want the sound to work, even with just the head unit, so i hope it ain't broken. ** ok, so i found some older threads and they too recommend unplugging the remotes first. is it hard to remove the head unit? do i pry it out or what? mine is above the helm storage compartment, located on the side of the helm, in the walkway basically.
  14. thanks a lot, some replies were very helpful. off topic, but since some folks brought it up, no my winter gas DOES NOT have ethanol in it (that was not the point of the thread to begin with...), Shell in Ontario has premium gas which is still ethanol free. Secondly, filling tanks full is recommended by the manual (again , off topic), to prevent condensation on the tank's walls. So i do and have been for 7 years now. Thirdly, dn0349, yeah, thanks, that is what i was looking for, so is my gasket messed up? It seems to be sticking out in a weird way, as if it was overtightened, never seen it like that before. Is it time to replace the vent? By the way, here is what mine looks like, except it is too dark now to take a pic of mine with , but identical to this, with the hex head. https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/uV0AAOSwnDxUiH~D/s-l300.jpg
  15. Pulled the boat out of shed. Smelled gas like crazy. I had full tanks and i see some yellowish stain on the swim platform, one end of it. Under the gas cap there is some hole/circle, which i never know what it was for (with allen key to turn it) and looks like some old washer is sticking out. Is that some sort of a gas vent and it leaked thru there a bit? it is about 3 inches below gas cap on the right side. Should i worry or just replace that weird looking gasket and call it a day?
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