yogi799

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About yogi799

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    Ontario, Georgian Bay

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  1. That place is on my list when I finally dig myself out of a financial hole. Plan is to rent a boat for a day. Is may or June ok? That's sorta the only time I could go.
  2. I get what you're saying and I agree. I simply like to have all the information and experts like Wingut are great to have around here to provide it. Don't worry, I don't have sleepless nights because of how I do it - it actually feels great to run the engine on nothing but AF but I just wanted to make sure warm AF does not have any immediate side effects, since very few people do it that way. Winters here can be extremely cold so I just try to make sure the AF has a chance to get in literally everywhere (and YES, the #%^$&%$ water is DRAINED! LOL)
  3. Nah, Wingnut jumped right into the questions, which I always appreciate. OK, so the 120 deg AF is not an issue. THANKS! I suppose the only thing of concern is this Your procedure does however mix by-products of combustion with the antifreeze that you will leave in the system all winter and some level of acid will form but perhaps this is minimal and nothing to worry about. I hope. Let me know if I am mistaken on this one and it's better not to run warm, recirculated AF all things considered.
  4. This thread was NOT to be about the method itself - and it was asked not to be twice in bold ( I guess it is extremely hard to communicate that ). Water IS DRAINED from the block before running AF. Nothing in the original post suggests otherwise.... with the clear intent NOT TO discuss the method itself. Wingnut, if you are around, can you please chime in on the ORIGINAL QUESTIONS IN THE FIRST POST? thanks.
  5. Nah, our friend here doesn't get the joy of seeing the boat for the first time after 6 months and firing up the v8 on muffs after a long winter break to see if the engine has not cracked open. :-)
  6. Yup, but I had faith that it wouldn't.... You answered my questions, thanks!! So your shop also captures AF and sucks it back in? For how long? Just curious. Yup. I know... Still hoping that Wingnut will chime in and give me more detail... he knows a tonne.
  7. did you see my stuff in bold twice? :-)
  8. Who said I don't? That's why I don't want to get into that discussion. Thanks
  9. "(please let's not debate my method for now, just the gist of the question)"
  10. Wingut and others, looking for some advice. Been winterizing on my own for the last 3 years and so far so good, but two things continue to bug me a bit: 1. when i run my engine on the cocktail (1 unit of gas, 0.1 of two cycle oil and some stabi) from an external portable tank, I don't get any smoke out of the exhaust until I've run the engine for at least 5 minutes and it is hot. Why is that??? Is it because there is a lot of original gas in my fuel filter and I am not even beginning to feed my engine the cocktail until about 5 minutes on idle (or 1300 RPM as my manual suggests)? I just did this today and got a tonne of smoke only when the engine was hot and about 5 minutes into it. 2. looking for a specific answer here in my special procedure. rather than feeding my engine with AF from the bucket up above, I run it on recirculated AF for 5 minutes until hot using a water pump and by recapturing the AF coming out of the exhaust back into the bucket and pumping it back into the out-drive using muffs. This has served me well and I do that to make sure the engine runs on AF alone until the t-stat opens completely (please let's not debate my method for now, just the gist of the question). My question to Wingnut and other is: my AF gets pretty warm (about 120F, 50C) after 5 minutes and it is always recirculated back into the motor using muffs; do I run a chance of breaking anything in the out-drive, specifically, any inlet hoses/pipes that are part of the water suction system, or is 120F AF completely safe? Basically I was wondering because I assume boat makers assume typical lake temperature is well below 120 F (50 C) and I am feeding my boat something much warmer, but at the same time I wouldn't think any intake components are that sensitive. Am I good to go and 120F on the intake won't hurt anything? My impeller seems to be ok with it (already changed one after 3 years and it look and felt brand new). BTW, I do monitor engine temp and always shut it off when the t-stat opens; I am only asking about the inlet components, thanks.
  11. ok, thanks!
  12. Wingnut, I have a question regarding this. I've been using the cocktail successfully for 3 years now but I always have remaining gas mixture that i don't know what to do with (I use more not to let the engine stall during winterization). By now, I have close to 20 liters left of the old gas mixture which pisses me off and my 2nd portable tank is almost full. So I have two questions: 1. is it safe to dump the remnants of the Fall cocktail back into the tank (boat) in the Spring?? My tank is 200 liters and there would only be 5 liters left of the cocktail, ie. a very small percentage, nevertheless still containing the two cycle oil. 2. is it safe to do the same (#1) with my 2 and 3 year old mixtures left from the past years or that gas is by now way too old? Mind you I always used the stabilizer as required in the mixture. I used to use the remnants in my lawnmower but it is has a 4-cycle engine and I think i did some damage to it by feeding it with the 2-cycle mixture. started stalling on me. so i'd like to just dump it back into the boat , let me know, thanks!
  13. Btw. How do you make a specially custom cut board like the one that came with my trailer? It's completely custom dimensions on all 4 sides. Like 3 something by 4 something by 5 something (inches)? I take it they take the boat's deadrise and then some software tells them the exact dimensions of the board to be cut? I've noted my bunk dimensions when I took off the carpet. Would I need a special lumber store to cut me such a board when the time comes for wood replacement? I can't see how one could cut it themselves. Even Home depot won't cut like that.
  14. Thanks Richard. I've done some research and they say 3/8 is typically the absolute minimum. Not sure why the marine store guy carries only 1/4. The boat got onto the trailer just fine and no damage done yet to the carpet, but I just finished a 3hr trip and the wind blew off one of the front staples on the side, so there is now a little flap hanging loose and susceptible to further staples flying off. That tells me the 3/8 is indeed the minimum and 1/2 would not be unreasonable. I will probably leave the 1/4 staples in but add a few longer ones in critical spots and call it a day. At least I was able to retrieve the boat from water and finish the trip. New carpet looks cool.
  15. Hey guys, are 1/4 inch Staples good enough to hold the carpet? Marine store guy sold me those saying they'll be plenty fine. My old Staples were much longer (guessing 3/8 or more). I've done one bunk already and it seems nice and tight but the boat has not gone on them yet. I'll be pulling the boat out of water today and access to hardware stores over here is extremely hard... Tough to buy longer staples. Will the 1/4 Staples do? (no glue, original work had no glue either). I put them about 4-5 in apart. Original ones were 2 in apart.