nkdenton

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About nkdenton

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Huntsville, AL
  • Interests
    Boating, wakeboarding, shooting, biking, hiking, travel, almost anything outdoors.

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  1. I upgraded from a 20'6" Tahoe to a '12 246 SSI. 20 deg dead rise to 22 deg. Never looked back, but I will say two things on this: 1) IMHO dead rise is part of the equation but boat weight and hull length have as much to do with the ride as dead rise of the hull., and 2) the first boat you buy is where you figure out what you REALLY want in a boat. For me it was a longer hull, a higher freeboard, tilt steering, and a Bravo 3 drive. My advice is to not make the decision based on ride alone but also for the total package. You might need two seasons or even three to shake out exactly what your list of "on the next boat, we want..." Will contain. As as for the older vs newer Sunestas, I think every mfr figured out the deckboat vs bowrider thing after about '08 and went with deeper Vs on deckboats, so much so that you can hardly tell the difference in the bow area. This is about when the Chap "pickle fork" bow design appeared, which widens the bow for the deckboats class but incorporates the deeper V. We looked hard at the Sunsesta 244 when we bought our 246 and the decision fell on cockpit seating arrangement. The Admiral just did not like the Sunesta seating layout as much as the SSI. Either way, I'd go for the latest model Sunsesta or SSi I could afford if I were in your shoes.
  2. Here's all I have to say on this subject: https://youtu.be/hrpI01yegm8
  3. Thanks all - I gave the service mgr at the "C" big box outfitter a chance to chase it down. Hose came loose - apparently after I planed out and ran for a half mile or so at high RPM. Not sure which hose but they just called with an apology and said the boats ready. Now, do I have the courage to leave sight of the marina again......
  4. Well, I haven't owned a 196 but I can definitely say that a 3200lb 20'6" Tahoe Q6 with an 8' beam and a 22 deg dead rise in anything more than 1 foot chop is #$^%, and that's on an inland river lake that is 4.5 miles across at the widest point. A 4500lb 24'6" Chap 246 with an 8'6" beam and a 20 deg dead rise in anything more than 2 1/2 foot chop that can't be quartered effectively is #$^%. 18" chop is okay. Your call, of course - those are the configs and waters I have experience powerboating on, as well as sailing in the Gulf of Mexico and off the Georgia coast. I can say that attempting to skirt a small squall in the GoM on a 21' day sailer was not fun and I couldn't have outrun it in a powerboat due to chop keeping speed down. Everything was bright, calm, and sunshiny - until it wasn't. As Ed and Toddler point out, insurance policy restrictions and open bow on big water are serious considerations.
  5. I did my installation myself - a DIYer with average to above average skills should be able to do it in a half day. It will take you 2 1/2 hrs to do the first one and 30 minutes to do the second one. Your tab mfr will have some installation location guidelines - mostly related to placement relative to strakes and the outboard edge of the transom. You want to go as far outboard from the prop as possible to get maximum effect from the tabs and have minimal effect on water flow past the prop and lower unit cooling water intake. I chose Lencos but Bennetts are fine as well. If you can afford the extra deer, go for the Bennett equivalent of the Lenco AutoGlide system. You will be glad you did in the long run, especially if you have an Admiral or friends who will drive the boat but may be hard to educate on trim tab dynamics... if you'll use the search on this site or Google the phrases "Lenco" "AutoGlide" "Keith" and "Chaparral" you will locate my earlier posts of my experience installing my Lencos. I see that Photobucket is bitching about my photo links, but I don't have time to fix it. Send me a PM and I'll be happy to email you my sketches and photos from my install and share any additional learnings I've had since doing mine.
  6. As Cyclops points out, you can over-rev the engine - think about running down the highway in a car w manual transmission at 90mph and then pushing the clutch in without taking your foot off the accelerator.... and yes, if your passengers are not anticipating the same turn and G force as you are (remember you are nearer the center of gravity of the hull than someone in the bow or stern) then you could inadvertently throw them overboard or into the windshield, etc. Just as you as the operator are able to anticipate acceleration and lean into it because you're feeling the throttle but your passengers are thrown backward because they can't anticipate it.... You're the captain so you're responsible for the safety of your crew and passengers - just make sure everyone is seated low in the cockpit and holding onto grabrails and everyone can enjoy the ride....
  7. I installed Lenco electric actuated tabs on my 246 about 3 years ago. It was the best mod to a boat I've ever done.
  8. True, but Indian canoes didn't have 250hp to do 45mph, either. Let's see if he knows what a head sea is. If he does and he knows how to run in one, then fine.
  9. Get used to it not working. Across 2 different boats and 10 years of ownership, I've had a working pitot tube speedo exactly 2.25 seasons.
  10. Impeller is one season old so barring a failure of some sort its in good shape. Will put the muffs on and see what I can see....thanks.
  11. I wouldn't. Boating on river reservoirs and mountain lakes with chop at 18"-2' beats the crap out of you in a 20 foot boat. Bow width isn't a factor one way or the other - the V hull is what is important in taking on rough water. If you don't know how to boat in a head sea, then you should probably skip this one....
  12. Agree with all here (except perhaps the PWC reco). I usually listen to make sure I'm not blowing the prop out which almost always requires trim at or near full in. The reverse chine on the Chaps make cornering a lot of fun but you have to make sure your passengers are aware and safe.
  13. Hello shipmates - got a late start on the season due to recovering from rotator cuff surgery. Had the Chap de-winterized first week of July and just this weekend managed to make the inaugural trip of 2017. Here's what happened: launch boat in usual way, pick up the Admiral on the pier after she parks the rig. Idle out of marina, sitting stationary idling for a good 10 minutes just off the marina entry - no issues. Get up on plane for about 25 seconds then run up to about 4800-5000 to get the cobwebs out of the engine. Life is great being back on the water for the first time this season..... After 2-4 minutes, I get the trusty Mercury shrill warning beep and the engine starts going into limp home mode. I look at my instrumentation: temp ok, oil pressure ok. Bilge on - WTH? Yes, we double checked the plug before launching so I know its not that, and we didn't hit anything. We just detailed the boat Saturday morning and I didn't see anything weird at the stern - I didn't check the bellows but she's only in her 5th season, just over 200 hrs so that would surprise me. I'm really puzzled. I pull the rear seat cushion up to peek into the engine compartment and I see about 3" of water in the bilge and the bilge pump going gangbusters. Okay, turn around and head back to the marina about 3 miles away. Staying in limp home mode, the bilge is keeping up but it is pretty unsettling. I try to improve on the 6 mph we're making and see if I can get up on plane - I get to 22 mph but she won't plane so I look back and see some spray beginning to come up from the belt on the crankshaft - crap, now what? Water isn't over the crank but it's deeper than it was - I'm thinking I have more than likely submerged the starter.... so I kill the engine and we start getting jackets ready and electronics in the water tight bag ready for the worst. Bilge is still going, we flag down a passing boat and get a tow back to the marina. Without the engine running the bilge is dry by the time we get to the dock. Our rescuers refuse my offer for dinner at the marina burger joint - they'd been out in the Gulf last week and had a dead battery so this was their pay it forward moment. I tie up and the Admiral heads for the truck. From the time I start the engine, idle the 50 feet and drive onto the trailer, the bilge pump is going again and runs for a good 5 minutes before pumping dry. I'm thinking (hoping) I somehow blew out a blue drain plug in the run up to max throttle. Now the questions: what is the source and what potential damage do I need to check for? Second question - do I take it back to the folks who winterized and re-commissioned for me, a big box sporting retailer (I won't call names, but it starts with a 'C', they sell mainly outboard rigs, and their building is made of logs) or just give in and head to the Chap/Merc/VP dealer that I didn't use this year for my service?
  14. Hi shipmates, Sorry for the off-topic post but just a quick hello to let you guys know I'm not on the bottom someplace and I didn't lose my mind and sell the boat. Still here. Spent the last 18 months taking care of my aging in-laws, with my 83 year-old FIL having a form of dementia and eventually succumbing to cancer in January of this year. Been a long, hard journey but I was able to get both of the parents-in-law out on the Chap last July on a mild day. As a Maine fisherman in his youth and an avid power boater and sailor throughout his life, it was great to give him that joy of being at the helm again. The boat is still in storage awaiting recommissioning which I expect to do soon and hopefully will be able to rejoin you folks in sharing and fun convos.... Have fun and keep the chine side down....be back later on. Keith 'Pura Vida' 2012 246SSI, 350MAG B3
  15. 2012 Tennessee Trailer 5000 Series... http://http://i1344.photobucket.com/albums/p657/nkdenton/WP_20130818_006_zpsccnzaud4.jpg[/IMG]