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    Out side of Boston
  • Interests
    I am a computer tech by trade. I like working with my hands ether building or fixing things.

    I love boating and going to new places by boat. In some cases it been a fun and a learning curve. At times living on the boat up to a week on vac.

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  1. I don't care for ether brand, but thats why I said "you may what to that route." It would be a savings in $$ and time to rewire it.
  2. To me, the gelcoat is not a deal breaker. That part is easy to fix. I boat in salt water and I too have a closed system. The advantages of a closed system is that it is very easy to winterize the engine. It takes me about 30 seconds, engine runs at better operating temp, no air gets into the block which promotes rust build up. My boat is now 6 years old, and maybe in 2019 to 2020 I may have to replace the risers. As to the blistering of the drives, I really don't think thats from the salt. I have twin engines and no blistering on both drives, but I do paint them every year. The biggest thing is that you use the right anodes in the heat exchanger and the drives for the type of water your in.
  3. I had a Lowrance and a Raymarine to see what I was missing. RAN right back to Garmin. But the structurescan hd module is from Lowrance. So you may want to go that route.
  4. Yes!! So very true........ It would be a labor of love!
  5. You need to use a non-copper paint on the drives. I do it every year and it will last up to Sept. with 2 coats.
  6. so very true........... I am sure its there for a reason and not a good one. The price to get rid of a "bad" boat is higher than what the boat is worth. To cut it up, dispose of any fuel and oil properly cost $$. What some people have done is grind the hull #'s off and sink there the boat.
  7. Don't forget the fuel filter.
  8. Lets step back? Someone said dry wight is 10,300lbs. The trailer must be about 2,000 lbs if not more. Add fuel, water, and gear about 700lbs. Two people in the truck, 350lbs. So the truck must be able to tow at minimum 11,550lbs To be safe, lets say 12,000lbs. This is just a good guess, so the homework must be done.
  9. I did not get it. Remember, it will not cover what they call wear items. You need look and see what items they are. In my case, my port engine's raw water pump bears were going bad. After one year, it would not be covered even with the extended warranty. For me, I can replace it on my own so it was no big deal.
  10. Is there an error code?
  11. Now thats boating!! Top speed 5 knots............
  12. No, there normal threads. I would take a torch to it. Just for about 30 seconds, that will expand the prop a little.
  13. You asked a question, and in trying to stay away from " method itself - and it was asked not to be twice in bold". That at times is hard to do because it can raise other questions. I did say "forgive me" but as some one else said, you knew it was going to happen. I don't think anyone was try to sway you away from your method. Anyways, good luck..........
  14. What comes to mind for me, that is has never been bottom painted. I would check for blistering and moisture content of the hull.
  15. Well, to get back to the point. As some has already mentioned. Without draining the block you already have about 3 gal of water in your mix. SO you could use -100 if your worried about it. More $$. Or just use one or 2 gal of -100. I have never done it that way, but I would like to see what the temp gauge is reading after 5 or 6 minutes. One thing to remember, when water freezes it swells. When AF freezes is shrinks. So even a small mix is not a bad thing. But, 2 or 3 gal of water with -50 AF could be. But you must be using 6 or 7 gals of AF just to keep it flowing? Forgive me!! I just would not do it that way. Nothing wrong with it, provided the mix is right and using more AF than needed.