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Posts posted by Iggy

  1. 4 minutes ago, rjbergen said:

    I tend to overbuild things and it’s largely based on being an engineer for the U.S. Army. When I’m sending things I’ve designed to soldiers in combat zones, I don’t want it to fail during a firefight. 

    I was very close to buying the gateways when I post the most recent thread earlier this year. They were on sale 15% off I think. But then it was like, “Well, I need one for each engine”, “Each engine needs an adapter cable”, “Of course I want the WiFi adapter to send data to my iPad”, “If I’m using my iPad, I need a RAM mount to hold it while cruising”, “Now I need the NMEA 2K backbone cabling”, and all of a sudden it was nearly $1,000! I couldn’t justify the cost right now because I have my wedding to pay for and that’s coming up quick on Aug. 31st. 

    The seasonal thing also makes it tough. I’m spending so much money on the boat and have such a short window in Michigan. I aim to splash the first week of May and haul out in the middle or end of Oct. I guess it’s really almost 6 months, but hey, I want to use it if it’s in the water. I also struggle to find free time in the spring to prep the boat as I coach I high school girls lacrosse team from the last week of Feb through Memorial Day. 

    You only need one gateway for both engines. At lest thats all that I needed. One gateway will handle up to 4 engines. I already had the network in place, but I wanted it for other things too!!

  2. Creating routes on your GPS is doing it the hard way. Your better off using Home Port, you have heard of that Hatem haven't you?? In this way you can zoom in and out. Fine tune it to your liking. You have all the editing tools and a mouse and a far bigger screen to work with. You can do it in less than half the time if not less. Than save to a SD card and transfer it to your GPS.

    A few good things about doing at home. If you upgrade your unit, you can install the routes on the new unit. If for some reason, you need to do a factory reset or editing. Well you have it all backed up!!

    Once you get use to the program, its very easy to do. To go from a 7" to say a 22" screen, thats about 5 times bigger and it makes it easier to go from waypoint to way point. 

  3. 3 minutes ago, sburke91 said:

    Question for those that have done it--how do you pull the gauge out?  Do you have to worm up from underneath, does it just pull out, or are there tabs on it and/or the dash that you can hit with an automotive trim panel tool?  

    You don't need to in order to hook up the gateway. If thats what your asking. You just need to get at the connector on the back of it.

  4. 21 minutes ago, DQNinh said:

    Hi All,

    I have a 2016 Chaparral H20 Sport.   In the middle of the floor, it has a tank (pic 1).  When I bought it, the salesman was kind of joking, "You can keep your fishes in here".

    I always think that is the storage area, and keep my "gears" in the tank.  But I learned that after a fun day on the lake, a lot of water gets into the tank, especially when I have a heavy load or running fast.

     Inside the tank, there is a "hole" (pic 2)  but does not have around shape so it does not take a plug.

    1.  Why water get into the tank?
    2.  Is there a way to pump the water out and how?
    3.  How do I keep the water from getting inside the tank?  Can I just seal the hole permanently?


    Webp.net-resizeimage (1).jpg


    Is that where the water is coming from?? Or is it hatch since there is no seal?  The hole can easily be sealed with 3m 4000 fast cure or any thing like 4000. 

  5. 7 minutes ago, EliW said:




    Yikes, comes out to 552 watts and 41.5 amps

    It may be 456 watts and 37.9 amps if I don’t add led strips.


    what am I gonna need to do for all of this? 


    Edit: at 40 amps at 25 feet i should be good with 10 gauge wire and that’s for all the loads combined 


    this if for 10 percent voltage drop

    I think I would take one or two light out? I have a funny feeling that your 25 feet is only the distance from battery to light.Yes?? Which means you need 50 feet of wire at AWG 6 size to carry that load. Never mind adding another battery to your bank. 

  6. 52 minutes ago, summerpenguin said:

    I just checked, and I have the same GPS you do. I have he breadcrumbs on it now. Have you ever deleted them? I'd love to delete all BUT one, haha so I know how to get back home. I guess I could delete them at the dock and then start a new batch. They are kind of getting in the way, especially in narrow channels. Looks like someone wrote on my chart with a black sharpie.

    Deleting bread crumbs doesn't delete any fishing spots I have marked, does it?




    If your in doubt, why not save it to a SD card? But you are really taking about waypoints, yes? 

    You could use your computer or your GPS and plot a route to get back home.


  7. On 7/13/2019 at 10:17 AM, Hatem said:

    I understand all the Mercury vs Volvo etc, I'm just saying that it's mostly referred to here on this forum as the "Smartcraft gauge" since I've been here in mid-2014 regardless of if the word Smartcraft is reserved to the Merc system AND that it supports Volvo engines. 

    But I did think it was produced (or licensed somehow) by Chaparral for obvious reasons, logo.  So who is the manufacturer?

    Curt is 100% correct, pull out your gauge and look. Except on one point, Vovlo use J1939 protocol which is why you need the gateway.  Sorry Curt!!


    I am going to say "NO" "Typically this has always been called the "Smartcraft" gauge on this forum regardless if your powerplant was a Merc or a Volvo" two different systems. The gauges between the two are different.


    Also I don't think you "I understand all the Mercury vs Volvo etc". Otherwise you would not be asking these questions.  

  8. 6 hours ago, Hatem said:

    The difference is that you didn't need to unplug any wires to remove the main unit from the frame.  So it is different that whatever you described.

    And it most likely had nothing to do with taking it with you to update anything.  He was a simple anti-theft device.

    You did't say that! You need to be correct in your information otherwise its useless. 


    Your not saying too, if you can lock it! Otherwise it makes it easier to steal. You need to us all the info, not just some.  

  9. 26 minutes ago, Hatem said:

    So I was at West Marine yesterday late evening coming home from a long day at work and was actually looking to buy the new G3 BlueChart for my 741xs and I asked them about Simrad GO12 SXE

    Funny (or I should say "interesting") how almost all these new systems are APP oriented.  So instead of a list of bars that have all the different functions listed for you, you just pick from the APPs.  So I took a few pics for you and man, what an AWESOME unit!  It wouldn't give me any forward scan because it was on display, but they could've programmed an example like most do, would've been good to see.  I'll tell you something, that feature ALONE would be the selling point for me depending on how well it showed up, but I'm assuming by all the other screens, it must be great!

    So once opened it, you can select from all these features.  I must be honest, though, I was not impressed with the charts and the salesman had taken off so I couldn't ask him, but I believe there wasn't enough info like specifically depth readings because it's a store-mounted unit without a transducer hooked up, but seemed like a lot was missing!  But others with the same display did show (channel, buoys, markers and specifically depths) so I thought that was a bit weird.  If you do end up getting it, just double check the display of information on the charts and make sure they give you the one with the latest and that they're not getting rid of an old batch of inventory to open the door for a new model.  Because I think that's what happened to me and why they bundled the 741xs in a package deal to make it more enticing  to move out the unit.  Had I known that, I might've done more research and looked to the comparison to the 742xs, but I most likely would've lost the package deal with the radar dome. 

    But this is pretty cool.  Just like your smartphone, pick the feature you want in an APP version.


    And  a few more pictures for you that I thought were interesting.  The radar is AMAZING!  I did talk to him about the issue of mounting that turned into something so much bigger than it needed looool to clarify things.  What he (this is the Garmin official who was there) said that what they do is depending on the boat and how stern heavy it rides, most of the time is they'll ask you when are the more frequent times that you will be using the radar?  During fog only?  At nighttime only and if so, what is your average speed when you're moving at nighttime.  Depending on that answer, they'll now what degree bow rise you end up having and they'll level it according to that bow rise since the beam it sends out has a span range of about 12 degrees to work with.  So they need to find that pitch for the most common cruise speed you'll be doing and set it at that. All of that talk brought back a lot of memories I had forgotten that the Garmin installers who installed mine had asked me all these questions.  It also complicated things a bit because I needed to elevate mine an additional 6" to be able to keep my tow bar on top of the arch.



    The side scan sonar was obviously tremendous!


    Of course fish finder is excellent


    Just a plethora of information that would take a while to understand everything.


    But check out their price!  I didn't remember what it was on your link but I'm supposing it's probably considerably less than this here?  Which did include the transducer and wiring etc. 


    On, " If you do end up getting it, just double check the display of information on the charts and make sure they give you the one with the latest and that they're not getting rid of an old batch of inventory to open the door for a new model. "

    So you are saying that if you buy "an old batch" that the firmware and charts can not be upgrade. Really?? I think your wrong again...........  


    Oh, "Funny (or I should say "interesting") how almost all these new systems are APP oriented. " Yes it is a interesting setup. BUT for Simrad it is not new. You need to keep up! They have been using it for the past 4 or more years that I know of. 

    And ", they'll now what degree bow rise you end up having and they'll level it according to that bow rise since the beam it sends out has a span range of about 12 degrees to work with.  So they need to find that pitch for the most common cruise speed you'll be doing and set it at that."  I said that already where you wanted it level with the water line, remember?


  10. 52 minutes ago, Hatem said:

    Let's move on, I can put all the insults and stupid stuff behind me.

    So I stopped at West Marine yesterday to see if they had any G3 Bluecharts and they were out of them.  So I took a look at this new model (I forget what number it is but you can actually disconnect it and take it with you, kinda like your old radio cars that used to be able to do that.

    There was a Garmin rep showing the salesman some of the features and so I asked him if I played with it a little and went to compass setting to see how different it looks from mine, pretty similar.  Notice the bar above and blue arrow showing direction of boat only when it's moving.  Had a great conversation with him I wish I recorded it!   


    I'll post a pic or how it appears on mine later when we get out there and how I use it AND TRUST IT! lol


    Really, "So I took a look at this new model (I forget what number it is but you can actually disconnect it and take it with you, kinda like your old radio cars that used to be able to do that." 

    I could do that with my old Garmin 3006c unit 10 years ago. So that is nothing NEW! I could disconnect the 2 cables in the back, undo the two knobs and take it home. Yes, you need a 12V supply and cable. But though the NEMA 0183, you could up load and down load routes.   

    Roughly about 5 to 6 years ago, Garmin has install a SD card slot/s so why even take it home for updates. Unless you want to?? 

  11. 8 hours ago, EliW said:

    Ive been meaning to add up the total load, I’m adding a lot probably around 450 to 600 watts in total 


    im gonna add it all up and find the exact total watts volts etc in the morning 

    I hate to ask this question, is your math right on the watts? I thought you were installing LED lights. And yes, you will need a few batteries to keep this load up. You may want to come off the battery directly. I would agree with Drew on 40 to 50 amps. 

  12. 20 minutes ago, drewm3i said:

    I would connect it directly to the large gauge wire that goes to the battery negative. 

    You could!! And there is nothing wrong with that, just saying. But for the sake of others, if the load is high "yes" you may what to do that. But he is installing LED lights, so may not be needed due to the fact we don't know the load. It could be low! He needs to do the math between load and the wire needed.

    But that is a good point.

  13. 2 hours ago, Rambo said:

    The compass is showing 172 degree heading (CTS), and not the direction where the boat is moving. The tracking (movement) direction is calculated by GPS (COG). The boat can be still and the compass will show the correct CTS while GPS will show the last calculated COG while boat was still in motion, that is the direction of an outdated track.

    BTW, the compass in NOT showing SOUTH facing helm. The way the marine compasses are marked it is showing boat's bow facing SOUTH at 172 degree.

    All this was already stated, restated and implied dozen of times in this thread and other related posts. There is no answer to the question as worded since the question does not make sense. Till one understands the difference between compass and GPS, between CTS and GOG, this discussion is mute at best or just sounding informative but really dangerous if taken at its word.

    It's not an opinion, nor assumption, nor "I think", nor open to backpedaling "I believe", it's a fact. It's physics. Unlike a car that almost always moves in one direction, the direction of the hood ornament, until it loses traction, boats do not have rolling wheels and move in two direction, forward and sideways, while making the way. Further discussion is just not possible until one comprehends this difference.


    Simply mind boggling - this is an example of how uninformed and dangerous advice one might find on the forums like this. It is nearly impossible, and very time consuming to do it over and over, to correct the misinformation like this. There is plenty of good info out there. Please search the web and learn from experts and reputable sources. The forums with opinions like the above prove to be neither.

    Kudos to Iggy for trying to fact check and correct the blatant errors and misconceptions.

    I am really done here.

    “Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience.” - Mark Twain


    You are right....  "Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience.” - Mark Twain

    One day he may understand, but not today.

  14. 3 minutes ago, EliW said:


    Awesome thanks so much just what I was looking for! I bought adhesive zip tie bases, I’ll use that to keep it all tidy. I’m putting in an extra bus bar because I think I need more, i will also have inline fuses on each separate piece of positive wire including the main wire connected to the on off switch. I also already have a circuit breaker in my switch panel so no need for a fuse box although I may still get one. 


    Can i I connect my second bus bar directly to any screw on the old bus bar already in the boat? 

    I would say yes, but the wire needs to be heavy enough to handle the load from one buss to the other. If I understand your question? 

  15. 1 hour ago, Hatem said:

    FINALLY a positively contributing post from you!  Yet I won't forget you (and that other guy) did everything in your powers to discredit me and my efforts to help newbies NOT show them that I am an experienced individual with the uses of GPS, but to only DISCUSS what I know and how I use it (which in itself is a bit limited and I made that disclaimer way at the beginning in my first post) and MAYBE, just maybe some of them will want to learn more and ask questions and even disagree with that I say, which is perfectly fine.  That's the way it should be.   The way that's been done here is where I have had a problem with it.  I'm just going to say this and end it but the fact that YOU and that other Rambo guy suggested going to other places to learn whatever it is sucked because you basically wanted to destroy this thread or end it.  I take HUGE issues with that.  You wanna correct me, do it here and do it respectfully or I'll tell you go to #$^%.  I won't stand for it.

    Back to your point, so why would Chaparral include them in the beginning until just recently if they're really supposed to only be lake boats?  They were always considered lake boats yet they ALWAYS had compasses.  I won't wait for your answer and it's because some lakes are HUGE and people can easily get lost on lakes and it also always helps to have a compass and learn how to use it.  How many Chaparrals do you suppose are being used in the Great Lakes which they call and ocean anyway?  It would be super easy to lose orientation and a magnetic compass can become rather useful.

    The problem is now that the ones in the newer GPSs are in fact excellent, very accurate and also MUCH easier to use and so yeah, why include a magnetic one and have to pass the costs to the boat buyer.  So the first part of that was my point. You think Newbies don't know how to read their instruction manuals or go to YT or Garmin websites if they want to look for "professional information"?  Where were you guys when I posted my entire windlass anchor installation with pictures that you both could've easily nitpicked?

    And here's the other point that seems to get lost in all of this minutia and that is - so what if 70% of the boaters on this forum are lakers?  What about the other 30% of saltwater boaters that include you and me (and I'm not even sure that umber is accurate to begin with, but we'll go with it for now) won't it help them as well?  There's been quite a few new boat owners posting that they're in salt water so this is perfect timing for them.

    Look at all the pictures and commentary I've included in this thread.  Would you appreciate it if a pair of ........ came on here and took a huge steaming pile of @#$%@# on it?  I don't think so.

    Maybe instead you should show how you use yours?  Post a pic (I know that would be so difficult) and show a cool feature that you use to teach a Newbie.  Wouldn't that be better to do?

    I think I can safely say that there was not one thing NEGATIVE or stating that you where wrong again in my last post. But you could not leave it alone!!

    1. The word disclaimer or anything like that was not used in our first post. 

    2. Discredit you, you did that yourself due to your lack of knowledge and you would not listen. Other cases in point, the transducer topic where you read the compatibility list and did not understand that it could not possibly work.  Lets see know, the mounting of the radar dome/array that should be level with the water line. Well you got that wrong too. In it self there small, but with the transducer. You debated that until to two other people agreed that it could not be used. And I don't understand??

    3. No we did not want to destroy your thread. You did that, again stating things that you did not know and getting emotional rather than asking "why" you were wrong.  AND he even give you a link to a past posting stating why and again you said "I would absolutely use the GPS compass to compare the calibration AND accuracy on the magnetic one regardless of the bow pointing in whatever direction.....". Really!! If you did not understand, all you had to do is ask him, but no you basically said that he was wrong.

    4. Yes, it would help the other salt water boaters!! Thats why they have classes on this stuff. 

    5. Your topic on a windless install. That did not interest me. I have installed them on my past boats. But if you want, I can pick though it and I am bound to come up with something. Just let me know?  


    If you really want to know how I use my chartplotter. I first go to my home computer, pilot a course/route and down load it into my GPS.   


    Now get off you your thorne and come back to earth.  Yes, I just got emotional...

  16. 1 hour ago, Hatem said:

    That's what I thought and I noticed that on the few new Chaparrals I looked at at the New England boat show.  Interesting that they seem to have been done with them and like I mentioned earlier, I wonder why?  Could it be that the compasses on the new GPS' now are so much better and more importantly easier to use?

    Do you use the one on your GPS or even on your IPhone?

    I'll talk a lot more about the magnetic compass (despite the past distractions) and the comparison to the GPS' one in due time.  No one has answered that question about which direction is the boat moving in with the compass showing SOUTH facing me in the helm?  I hope you newbies have not been scared away by the BS that occurred from a certain individuals that essentially wanted to destroy this thread.  Don't worry about that.

    I talked a bit about setting waypoints and was going to do a couple waypoint setups, but due to the group I was with and the fishing we were doing, I made a very limited waypoint in open water since we were about 20 miles offshore.  We were around 100ft of water and I figured I would look for a deeper section and used the "panning" feature on the touch 741xs touch-screen which you can move the screen to different places way beyond where your boat location is, find the spot that you want to get to, tap that spot with your index finger and a yellow X will show up and will ask you if you want to set that as a waypoint and you press yes.

    So I panned all around until I found an area that was about 10 miles away that was a pretty good size dip that went down to 170ft deep.  So I did exactly what I described in the above paragraph and this is basically what it looks like.


    If I had autopilot, then I wouldn't even need to steer to that point but the 276 stays pretty straight so not much steering needed.  Took about 15 minutes to get there to see if there were any bigger fish in deeper water.  It almost works like your car's GPS, just some slight differences.


    I am being very up front about this.  "Interesting that they seem to have been done with them and like I mentioned earlier, I wonder why?" If you think about, Chaps (including mine) are really lake boats. How often would a lake boater use one VS  a salt water boater? Also at there discount, they must be saving about $100 per boat.


    Even looking at the forum, there must be +70% lake VS salt water boaters. 

  17. 10 hours ago, EliW said:

    How do I tap into the wire? Where would I connect my positive and negative ?? It’s the only thing I need to know before I can start wiring. 

    Here is the wiring for the on off switch you’ll also notice a bus bar for the negative on the bottom left. Where would I connect my wires to tap in an add a new bus bar and my switch panel?



    Thats easy, use a ring terminal (size the terminal to the wire to) l that is the same size to fit onto the back of the switch. Use the switch side as you mentioned before. To the left you have the Neg bus bar. If there is open terminal use it.  Wire tie all your wires so they don't come loose.

    Remember too, that yellow wire on a boat is Neg 12V. In most other applications, its black. Because you also have 120V A.C. on boats and they use black, so now there is no confusion between the two.   

  18. 36 minutes ago, EliW said:

    Hey guys, sorry to interrupt but does anyone know where I would tap into the power harness for my boat? I need to know where to get the positive for my switch panel and the negative for my bus bar!



    I would tap into the switched side of your battery switch. It really depends too if you need it alive at all times. Say for a bulge pump, than to the battery. But in ether case, use a breaker or fuse.  

  19. 12 hours ago, drewm3i said:

    There are many different paints to choose from with all different appearances. With trailer boats or fresh water boats, petit vivid is the best looking as it is a hard ablative and doesn't wear away as easy as something for higher growth areas.

    Interlux micron 66 is the best I have found and lasted four years on our sailboat in south florida with little growth when it came out.

    The paint harm's dealer used is okay, but nothing special. In the NE it is probably fine, but in Florida it wouldnt work as well. His probably needs a yearly maintenance coat, which is okay but a pain. In freshwater, something like vivid applied in 3 coats will probably last year's without needing additional coats. You'll know when it's time because the paint will stop working. If you use something with too high of a copper content in freshwater, it won't work at all so be careful with that.


    Ablative can be applied over ablative, but epoxy cannot be applied over ablative. You will want to epoxy barrier coat before applying any paint. The barrier coat will last 5-10 years and will then have to be removed and redone. They crack with age. After doing a bottom job on a large sailboat, I would never paint a small bowrider in fresh water like this one. 


    I agree with you on "The paint harm's dealer used is okay, but nothing special. In the NE it is probably fine, but in Florida it wouldnt work as well." I am in the same Boston waters and one year same stuff since it was water based. I was lucky to get one season from 2 coats. 


    Your in much warmer waters all year round. I have been using this or there %45 copper one, which ever is on sale https://bluewatermarinepaint.com/collections/ablative-bottom-paint/products/copper-shield-uno-35-copper-ablative?variant=21808406528100  

  20. 3 hours ago, Hatem said:

    I agree.  Amazing how expensive it can get.  IIRC, mine was a package deal.  It was the 741xs GPS (which honestly isn't too bad, but if I had more experience at the time of buying it, I might've picked a different model but it wouldn't have been a package deal), then the 18" radome and the transducer I think it was all for $1800?  Maybe more I'll have to dig into my receipts to find out for sure.  Then there was the cost of the installation which wasn't cheap, either. So it adds up quickly.

    But I use my radar a lot, especially like in a few hours when we head out with a few buddies and it's still dark out.  Took a little time to get used to it and understand some of its nuances and then it's invaluable if you're stuck in major fog.  One thing that can happen easily is you lose your orientation in heavy fog if you're in a place you're unfamiliar with.

    I think I'm subscribed to your channel so I should get notifications.

    EDIT: PS, you noticed I didn't respond to that last idiotic post ditectrd at me otherwise I would've wiped the floor clean with his face because of how purposefully insulting it was and without any moderation on this forum, sometimes you have to take things into your own hands but I didn't respond out of respect to you and your thread and I made a promise that I would do that and I keep my promises.  Besides, I already wiped the floor so why bother again lol.

    Good luck on your choice and do keep us updated on what you choose and get.

    Now I did not say ANYTHING bad about of your past posting in mine on this topic. But you had to say, "you noticed I didn't respond to that last idiotic post ditectrd at me otherwise I would've wiped the floor clean with his face because of how purposefully insulting it was and without any moderation on this forum," Nice and you claim not to be emotional. I have never called you names but just to prove you wrong with fact. 


    But now  please tell me, how do you... " One thing that can happen easily is you lose your orientation in heavy fog if you're in a place you're unfamiliar with." When you have your GPS right in front of you, and your radar giving needed info.