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Everything posted by Iggy

  1. My boats now is too big to trailer. But when I did, I liked the trailers that used rollers. I would paint the bottom the best I could. Than wait a day and use a comer-long and pull the boat off the trailer about 6 to 10" to expose where I could not reach. Than use the winch to pull it back.
  2. There are 2 schools of thought on this. None of them wrong, it just depends on what you want and how you feel. I like having control and knowing that ether battery alone can start my engine. Also its a simpler hook up as you mentioned. You just need to wire a ground to the ARC or VSR. Keep in mind, you go out on the #1 battery, drop anchor and do your thing. If the engine can not start, switch to #2. If there both that bad, switch to combine. But you will never know with the add-a-battery kit if the 2nd battery can alone start your engine. The other way is more automatic, but less control. The 1st battery will power the boat. the 2nd battery will power what ever you hook up to it. Remember, you will need to separate the loads if that what you want. The other way you don't. Otherwise, it come off of the #1 battery. When you think about it, its really not that automatic unless you separate the loads. If your engine will not start, you still need to use the battery switch. Another thing too, you don't want to drain any battery too far down. Flooded about 50% and AGM about 40% down. Otherwise you will shorten its life.
  3. Yes to the above. But remember, this is NOT the Add a Battery kit setup. With the above, you can start the engine off of ether battery alone (or both). A good thing, with the kit, you can not you must combine them. This can lead into, the good battery discharging into the bad one. Not good. As someone else mentioned, on smaller boats there may not be a complete separation of House and Starting setup. Leave the wiring to the Alt alone. Just replace the battery switch with a dual battery switch and install the ARC or VSR which is a 3 wire setup. Simple setup, giving you complete control. Of course, complete the wiring from the 2nd battery to the switch. One to ground, Neg and the other to the switch, Pos side of the battery.
  4. http://www.mpja.com/04-16-18.asp?r=278544&s=20 I thought this might be a good add on for someone. It shows volts, 2 USB ports, and a standard 12V port.
  5. I don't believe that is a parallel switch, top row center is marked just for that. I would unscrew the panel and pull it out a few inches and see how its wired. The next pic looks like your contractor/relay for your windless. The last is a battery isolator, used to charge all the batteries up without them discharging into each other. On the engine running rough, check all your batteries. You can buy for 35 to 50 a load tester to see if there any good.
  6. If you would like radar, i would go with more power and the bigger array the better. I went with the Garmin 18 inch dome. When I get close to 2 channel buoys, the radar sees then as one. The 24" model would see them as two separate targets. Why, less power but the 18" uses a 5 degrees beam were the 24", uses 2.5 degree beam. Needless to say "I wish I bought the 24" one!!" This is typical of most radar units, just not Garmin for what its worth.
  7. Why not just move one on the mounts down so the door closes? Unless I am missing something.................
  8. Congrats on the new boat!! I have a 2011 Sig 290. Which is almost, the same boat. Same beam, twin engines, fuel and water capacities the same. Maine has a great coast line! Are you doing lakes, salt water or both? There are different things you must do for ether one. Salt water is more of a challenge, but with that coast line I would differently do it. You could spend two or three years going places and never hit the same place twice. Even a short hop to Nova Scotia. But do take a boating course and think of adding a VHF if there is not one already.
  9. Your right, on a alpha its in the drive. Volvos are even easier to change out.
  10. I would leave the 541s in place and mount the 741 to the side. Use the 541s as a fish finder and the 741 as a GPS. This will also give you a backup GPS unit.
  11. Try Defender.com
  12. Look at Isotherm, more $$ but you get what you pay for. It heats up faster, stays hotter longer and uses half the power. About 700 watts, which is great when using the genset.
  13. Yes, remember that the sea water is running though the heat exchanger. Much like air going though your car radiator. So that impeller is pumping that sea water to the heat exchanger. With out that water, the engine will over heat. I too have a closed system, I change it out every 2 years to be on the safe side and carry a extra one on-board. Cheap insurance!
  14. Yep! I have a closed system so I need to change the anodes in the heat exchanger. Rather than the hot water tank.
  15. Just my thoughts, I would rather use a breaker than a fuse. I breaker can be reset, but a fuse you would need to replace it. Where to buy, many options Defender.com and tinnedmarinewire.com just for starters.
  16. I should have asked, are we talking about Mercs or Volvos. I have Volvo's and the data goes right to the tech. Four wires to the tech and that feeds all the other gauges for the two engines other than the fuel tank. The gateway I used was a pass though connection to the tech with a NMEA2k connection. Mercs, I could not tell you
  17. Well, its like this........... Personally that unit is too small to display, GPS, fish finder and engine data. But thats me. I have a 741 and a 741s, One for radar and GPS, the other for GPS as a back up and Fish finder. What happened to me is that one side of my tech (I have twin engines) was broken. New tech was 750 and if your engine uses J1939 protocol, which mine does. For 175 I added a J1939 to NMEA2k getaway. In the lower corners of the 741's you can have data fields (a digital read out). So now I can display both engines tech readings in those fields. Now this you can do, but to display the gauges would take up a whole screen.
  18. What is nice with the Garmin units is that they have a "Services" icon. So you can locate, fuel, marinas, yacht clubs and repair shops where you are. One summer we were coming from the Mather's Vineyard when the seas were getting rough. We when though Wood Hole and said that we need to find a place to stay over night. The GPS's had a list of places and what they offered along with there phone number and there hailing channel.
  19. Tried Lowrence and there customer service was bad. Went right back to Garmin. They have great support and will to help you any way they can. I must say that the new Raymarine looks very good on paper, but my last Raymarine was over 15 years ago. At that time Garmin was far better.
  20. Not sure than. On a Merc, I always used muffs.
  21. Some thing sounds wrong. This is my or the start of my my 7th year in salt water. In the next few weeks, I am having the drives pulled and the boots replaced. Other than normal maintenance and a new hot water heater last year. All is well!! I do have a closed cooling system and do all the work myself, other than pulling the drives. Too heavy, need the right tools and needs to be done about 8 years or so. I did add Racor filters for what its worth? I now have about 120 hours on the engines. Again, some seems odd about all your problem.
  22. And how did that work out?
  23. I have heard some boaters bypassing the hot water tank like you said. By connecting the two hoses, BUT I would only do that if your 110% sure that you will never heat the water off the engine. But if your not connected to shore power, than yes. You can heat the water off the engine. It will take about 20 to 25 minutes. If your engine is cold, you need to warm up the engine and the engine needs to warm up the tank. This is another reason where a closed cooling system is better. Your hot water tank will heat up faster. You would have AF running though it, rather than sea water. Heating the hot water off the engine is great and we do it all the time when we go away.
  24. Maybe I am not understanding?? But we are talking about cursing speed, not top end. Yes? I have a Sig 290 with twin 4.3L. Ok different boat with different engines but the same does hold true. I do about 30M.P.H. (26knots) doing about 3200 to 3300 RPMs. Which give me about 22 GPR fuel rate. Anything less or more, brings down my MPG rate. Roughly, the same should true with this boat. Doing about 30 mph or any boat's (sweet spot) getting the most MPG out of the engine/s is a good thing for a long trip. Why push the engine/s and pay more at the fuel dock??
  25. I had one of these setups. I what I found out, that "IF" the sea water was cool enough. You could keep the water pick up closed. I would close and open the pick up, every time we came or left the slip. On day I forgot to open it, The engine did not overheat and the temp gauge was fine, in the 175 range. Called the dealer and was told, that the sea water was in the 65 deg range. It it was more in the 75+ range, than I would need to open the pick-up. I only used the muffs, the water is going to the same places. In the block. I would not run the engine for long at 1200 RPMs due to the fact that the hose can not supply as much water as the out-drive alone. But thats me.