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Everything posted by Iggy

  1. You can add radar right now https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/86236#devices You don't need a new chartplotter just for that.
  2. When you said upgraded, I thought you meant replaced. But they are still doing firmware updates on you model https://www8.garmin.com/support/collection.jsp?product=010-00594-01 But maps, no. Thats why I would like to go with Furuno. But at the time I was just learning and have a lot invested in Garmin. But the 5212 is now hitting 10 years old. Maybe its time to replace it.............. You are not on a lake and you have some interesting places around you to visit.
  3. Why can't your GPS be upgraded? Bring your boat to my house, I will do it for you. I have changed out the GPS units in my boat several times so it seams odd that it can't be done. Remember too, GPS units are IP67 rated so there water proof and sunlight readable. It would be like reading your phone in the sun.
  4. You mentioned "the red light" I am thinking that is the VSR. Download the manual on it to give you a better understanding. On my boat, it from Blue Sea. https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/35/Automatic_Charging_Relays
  5. You should find the ground wire attached to the Neg side of the battery. But where? Every model boat is different, I would trace the wire from the VSR.
  6. You are asking a lot from a 7" display. To show 3 or 4 out of the 6 gauges is a lot with displaying GPS and fish-finder info. You are going to need two 7" displays or one 12" display. Even the 9" unit will be small. But thats me.................. I would also say that you do not need the gateway. You will need to know how to tap into the wiring to pick up Can+ and Can- for the J1939 connection and that would be off the tech if its like my boat. I don't know your boats wiring, but most Chaps do not have the fuel and trim connected to the engines computer. So no read out though the J1939 interface if thats the case. As to the NMEA2k network, its not a bad thing to have. My N2k network shares info between my GPS, VHF, AIS, fish-finder and my remotes for my Fusion sound system.
  7. I would take a U.S.C.G. safety course. Pulse your not saying what type and options your boat has. As in, open and closed system, reverse heat and cooling and.........
  8. Thats a nice little unit!! Six bolts and two wires and the whole thing comes off in 5 minutes. I would just replace the whole unit, don't even bother with the service kit. I would rather have that than the Vac-u-flush system.
  9. Have you cleaned the intake? The old impeller, was there any fins missing? Open or closed system? Is the impeller housing in good shape? I have seen sand rough up the walls causing the same problem.
  10. Yes, I would disconnect one remote at a time to see. There has to be a way to remove the head unit without prying it out. I would download the manual to see if a key or some sort of release tool is needed. My old Sony head unit, you needed there key which has flat to be inserted on the sides to pull it out.
  11. I have a 2011 Sig 290. As to the level of water, I have the same problem. But is just the two us us so its very easy to guess. But I have been toying with the idea of something like this https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=scad-tm1-tank-monitor-with-external-sensor-strip&path=-1|51|2234305|2234306&id=6539568 Every spring I use one of these to clean the tank but I never drink the water from the tank. Just to shower and wash dishes. https://www.defender.com/category.jsp?name=drinking-water-treatment-chemicals&path=-1|51|2234214&id=2243565
  12. Mine too. I changes mine out a few years ago, but no ongoing problems. Change it to another brand. I carry an extra one sump and water pump. With my luck, we would be away on a week long trip and and need one.
  13. You should go with this one ProMariner ProSafe Fail Safe Galvanic Isolator - 30 Amp https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=promariner-prosafe-fail-safe-galvanic-isolator-30-amp&path=-1|328|2290032&id=1353688 First off it is "fail safe" meaning that if the diodes inside fail you still have a ground connection. Also the Yandina isolator is not ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council) AND UL certified.
  14. Than you should be adding a galvanic isolator so your drive is not eaten up. You may want to check with your club or marina if you can use a 20 amp cord to plug in. Some docks will not let you use a 30 to 20 amp adapter unless your on board. Makes since, the breaker is rated at 30 amps for a shore power cord. The biggest normal extension card is 20 amps and if something where to happen the cord could burn up before the breaker pops.
  15. Are you planning to use this charger off shore power when the boat is in a slip?
  16. As she should! I would buy a digital one with a LCD display. The range from 25 to 150 bucks.
  17. Cyclops is right, I would buy a load tester and test the batteries. Years ago a bad battery blow out my charger from seating all winter. So now I load test them every spring. Its not a bad thing to do.
  18. On your comment : "This is also the case when I am disconnected from shore power, generator is off, and the switch (Shore-Off-Gen) is set to Off and I am running the engine. With AC Main set to on, the AC Volts meter registers 0 and I have no power to the associated outlets, appliances, etc." Again, this is normal. The engine/s will only put out 12v D.C. Not 120v A.C. So your lights, water pump, GPS and alike should be able to be turned on. No Microwave or anything that needs 120 volts. I think you popped a breaker, have you checked the genset itself. You may want to download the manual on it.
  19. I am supersized that you even went out knowing you had a problem. I would first go over all your battery connections and make sure that both are holding a charge. Its not uncommon that a wire to the batteries was not connected from last fall. Just another thing to check for.
  20. No, the digital display is correct. As I mentioned, my starboard tech reads 2500 all the time. Also Andrew conformed that his gauge is fogging up too. What is happening, is that moisture has is now in the gauge affect the mechanical movement of the needle.
  21. I would hope he would know that. But Andrew also said "or running the boat". So good point! You will not have 120v A.C power with the engine running. Only 12v D.C. power just like most cars. To have 120v A.C. you must be on Shore power or have your genset running.
  22. Have you popped the breaker from the genset?
  23. If you have twin engines is nice to see that both engines are in sync. Some boaters know that their boats run best at a given RPM.
  24. If they all are, you might want to think about a gateway so you can display the info on your GPS. Also, they do make LCD gauges as replacements.
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