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Iggy

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Posts posted by Iggy

  1. 1 hour ago, rjbergen said:

    Because seawater introduces it's own headaches. It can cause nasty smells, it adds another through-hull, and an additional pump.

    Why do you not want to use freshwater? Do you actually use up your entire tank of fresh water? My holding tank is almost always full before my freshwater tank is empty, but I also don't drink or cook with my freshwater tank. It's reserved exclusively for washing hands and rinsing things off, no ingestion.

    As he said!!! And then some...

  2. 9 hours ago, kevinwright9 said:

    Our boats are very close in year and size.  Did you connect the gateway near the engine or under the console?  It looks like I'm supposed to just pull a connection from the tach under the console and insert the gateway, but the connections do not match (6-pin versus 8-pin according to my research of the gauges).  My boat is in dry storage so I haven't been able to climb underneath and take a closer look.  That's my plan for Thursday when it stops raining here.

    Same question for the transducer.  Neither the Garmin or the Simrad has an 8-pin connector, so where is this connected?

    Am I needing to get adapters for both the gateway and the transducer?

    My install was 6 pins, but not all the pins are used. Basically, only 5 pins are used at least on mt boat. Can +, can-, Pos, Neg and ignition.   You may not need a adapter, but just a new plug itself. How many of the pins are used?  

  3. 29 minutes ago, Wingnut said:

    Sounds like a restriction has formed over time. W

    Do a net search on Marine AC condensing unit cooling water pump installation. I feel that the addition of a longer hose, and a priming loop will cure your issue. Beyond that, there are self priming condenser cooling pumps available, but they have a rubber impeller that has to be serviced, not unlike our engine raw water pumps. W

    Thanks, but to be honest about it. It takes me 2 or 3 minutes to do once a year. So upgrading the pump may not be worth it.

  4. I have a 2011 Sig 290 with twin Volvo 4.3l engines.  I installed the gateway about three years ago. As to where the gateway is installed, I am talking about Volvo's only. It depends on, do you have digital or analog gauges. In my case, the gateway was installed in line with the tech at the helm. One gateway did both engines. A 20 min install, but it took 2 hours to research and move pins on the connector.

     

    Analog, you must use one gateway per engine and is installed at the engine. As to the file, very easy to create and edit. But mine worked without it with everything showing that I needed.  

    As to a NEMA2k transducer, that will only give you depth and no fish finding screen. Keep in mind that NMEA2k is old technology that comes out of the 80s. Better that NMEA 0183, but limited bandwidth and now Ethernet is replacing it. If you have radar or a black box fish finder you know what I mean.   

  5. 3 hours ago, Dozer said:

    Ok, its 3:30 in the morning, we're out for the weekend. Mild temps, A/C is warm, and I see the HFE code. Went out, looked for the usual stream on the side...no flow. Went into engine bay, could feel the pump running. Seacock filter is clear, but also noticed water in the bilge that was not there earlier (not sure if this related), did not see any water leaks around the A/C water pump, been parked for a couple days in same spot, A/C worked night before without issues. Water temp is about 73, Air temp mid 70s to low 80s

    Boat is on trailer when not in use.

    Coils are clean, no water in the tray

    So as usual before I start tearing things up I would like some advise on how/where to start

    The system is a Dometic Marine Air System on a 2006 290sig

    Thank for any advice on how to troubleshoot this thing, before weather gets really warm.

     

    If the boat is on the trailer when not in use. That means that you need to prime/burp the system every time you put her in. I too have a 290, but I keep her in all season. Thats one big load to be hauling! Boat and trailer must be hitting 11,000 lbs 

  6. 27 minutes ago, WetCoastWillie said:

    Open, raw water cooling

    Since its an open system you have a lot more to look at. If its a Volvo, I would also use the hose on the side of the engine to flush the mud out. With the engine off, I would flush it and see if mud comes out of the drive. If not I would start the engine and flush at the same time but not raising your RPMs over 1500.  

    I would still look at the impeller. Years ago being new to boating, I could not figure out why my engine was overheating. The boat I bought was new and only the dealer used it. I think he beached it and mud and sand was sucked in and scored the impeller housing. 

  7. 2 hours ago, 1830SST said:

     

    Iggy, I'm well aware of the E-10 stuff. I've had ten years of small business repair experience and can tell you it's been the most counter-environmentally fariendluy and destructive issue... I now recommend electric for all minor outdoor power equipment. Anyway, I won't go there any more.

    My "non-negotiable" plan is to go through the fuel system, clean oil pain and change all fluids, compression test. A carburetor rebuild is in order too, whether it needs it or not! Because I THINK this is a carbureted engine. I don't know the maintenance history, so I'm going to be starting over- especially with the fuel system. There will be electrical inspection too.

    Getting excited for my new project. I can't wait for that upgraded sound system blaring over the skiing towards skiers in tow. Oh, and the 50MPH will be fun too.

    It sounds like you have it under control.

  8. It looks like it can be a very good looking boat once cleaned up!

    Now you say it ran last season. What comes to mind and I don't know enough about it, is the E10 fuel. In 1994 there was no E-10 so has the boat been running from year to year since 1994? I what I an trying to say, if the engine been running all these years on E-10 than your all set. If not, than hose and gaskets may need to be changed out. We have heard stories on older boats that these things break down with the newer fuel. Maybe the boat been running on leaded fuel all these years? 

    If it was me, I would do a rough cost on paper to get the boat back into shape. Than, is it worth it? Go after the engine and drive first, than the wiring and helm. After that the hull and the repairs to it. As to the seats, I would just replace them. The cushion, covering, and backing are most likely shot. 

  9. 41 minutes ago, Lysdexic said:

    I literally just went through this. I bought a replacement pump from Troy at Mancave Mechanic. I did a ton of research before doing so, and the bottom line is that Volvo (Carter) still manufactures the pump the same way, meaning they still paint the inside of the pump. Because of the ethanol content in fuel these days, I would expect an accelerated rate of failure on the factory replacement. The best price I found on a new one is $1,500.

    I replaced my pump last week, and it runs great so far. Troy was great, and had great customer service. The only issue I had was the valve stem inside the fuel pressure testing valve was loose, so I dumped fuel. Grabbed a schrader valve tightener and took care of it.

     

    Steve

    Brand now I picked mine up for $800 each for genuine Volvo pumps. WOW, $1,500 I would change your search engine. As far as I know they have stopped using paint in the pumps on the genuine Volvo pumps.  

     

    http://www.cecilmarineonline.com/849-99-genuine-volvo-fuel-pump-23306461-old-part-21608511-a-signature-is-required-for-delivery-in-stock-ready-to-ship/

  10. 10 hours ago, SG Boater said:

    No ideas from anyone?  Double checked the battery cables and all are connected, and tight.  Tested the battery switch and I have continuity so that's not it.  Wide open to suggestions.

    You checked for continuity, what about voltage. What are you getting for voltage? Start at the battery and work forward. Where are you loosing 12V?

  11. 16 hours ago, SST said:

    That looks pretty good. I haven't seen that one listed.  I can't tell from the photo but is the storage bag attached to the life jacket or is it separate?  My concern might be if its windy what's the probability of it getting blown away. If its attached to the bag while attached to me, I won't  likely lose it.

    It is all one. You pull the cord and the bottom is attached to the belt. Then you pull it over your head. I also use this type when on my inflatable.

     

    If it really get rough, I use this type. https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=onyx-m-24-manual-inflatable-life-jacket-life-jacket-pfd&path=-1|135|2290066|2290071&id=2044782

     

    Both give you the freedom to move. BUT remember one thing, U.S.C.G. will not count it as a PDF unless your wearing it. As mentioned the fanny pack type I keep on the back of your seats. The U.S.C.G. boarded us and did count them because they where right there.  

  12. I have twin engines too. But I have four switches, one for each engine, one for the house, and one to combine the two engine batteries. You don't have one to combine the two starting batteries? Sounds odd. There should be two VSR (voltage sensitive relays) by the battery switches. With just one engine running (ether engine) that starting battery will charge. Once its gets to about 70% the first VSR will close. That will charge the house bank and than the 2nd one will close to charge the other starting battery. 

    I added 2 more house batteries, one was just not cutting it! But normally, both engine are running and the VSRs will close and charge the house. In my case, if the house bank is low, I start both engines. That would be a big load for one alternator, plus it would charge up faster.  

     

    If you house bank is not charging you ether have something wired wrong or your VSRs are bad. That goes back to tracing the wires to get the bigger picture of how it works.

  13. If it was my boat I would do a bunch of things. 1. Install a 2nd bilge pump. 2. Use sightly over sized fenders. 3. Use 1/2" 3 stranded dock lines. 4. If I could, I would use a spring line and keep the boat off the dock. 5. Are you using the right anodes?  6. Talk to my slip neighbors. Exchange phones number to watch each others boats and ask them if there is anything else you should do. After all, they know the marina. 7. Paint the out-drive and trim tabs.  

  14. 6 hours ago, Noonan1 said:

    Thanks Toddler.  I was only about 100 yards from my dock, but you’re probably right about not continuing.  When I throttled downThe warning alarm stopped.  I’ll check the hoses in the am

    You could of over heated too. By throttling back the engine was not working as hard and the pump with reduced water flow was enough. Thats not unheard of.  When was the impeller changed out? 

  15. If your looking at inflatables, you don't want one that is a "roll up" type or a flat bottom. You need one with a keel or it will not track right.

    My first one was a Mercury, flat bottom with slats on the floor. I was all over the place and to make it go in a straight line was tough. The wind, the current would push on it make it hard to control.

     

    I bought this and love it! It has a flat deck so when water that gets in and it well, it go to the keel. With the roll up, your feet and bags were in water.   https://www.northatlanticinflatables.com/product-page/8-8-aluminum-rib-w-deck  Now the do make ones with inflatable keels that cost less. 

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