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Iggy

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Posts posted by Iggy

  1. 7 hours ago, quattrospeed said:

    Wow, I’m a long time lurker here... 2007 290 SIG (pictured) and I had no idea this was even possible. Am I reading this right? I can connected my mercruiser engine data and gauges to my nema2000 device? In this case Garmin 942? I would definitely pay for guidance with this. 

    I would this so too! I too have a 290 but 2011 model and Volvos. I would suggest a bigger GPS or at lest a 2nd one if you going to display engine data too. 

  2. For the same reasons I use 4000 fast cure installing to new pumps. Its been 5 years now and the pumps are still in place.

     

    The other small reason I use 4000. I did not want water to get into the glass. 

  3. 40 minutes ago, Wingnut said:

    The words polarity reversed on an AC power system is somewhat of a misnomer, but the marine industry has used it for years. If your boats power system or shore power cord/adapter has not been fooled around with, then likely you have lost ground continuity to your panel. I would begin with trying a neighboring receptacle at the marina, and see if the fault clears. If so then the problem lies in the power head at your individual slip space. A multi-meter will allow you to test for continuity between ground and neutral at your boat cord, and also to be sure you are seeing 120 VAC between neutral and hot on the proper prongs. If you are not familiar, have the marina maintenance guys check it out. You may have lost the ground connection in the on board cabling to your panel, but that is less likely. W

    So true, but what comes to mind is two things. The ground in the AC panel could be loose or the galvanic isolator is bad and it is not a fail safe type.

  4. On 4/30/2020 at 8:19 AM, Stimpy said:

    Correct...I have the older analog gauges. I"m all set on the gateway's and harness's and know my path forward on them.

    The tank adapter is another situation. Being it's a bare wire cable, I'm trying to get any info I can on it before I start splicing into my harness somewhere

    I would go off the back of the gauge. But personally, I would not bother. Your using the same sender thats in the tank, so it still won't be that accurate. On a medium to long trip, I always fill the tank. I take note of the G.P.H. rate which will give me a very good idea of how much is left in the tank. To me, the fuel gauge is only good if your not moving.    

  5. I put one in my 290 but mine is a 2011 model. I connected it to the tech and it took about 10 mins to do after moving some pins around. 

     

    I don't know your engines but one gateway for both engines. I can see almost everything, temp, tech, oil temp, G.P.H. but not the fuel level. In it self, no big deal. 

  6. 50 minutes ago, TexasPilot71 said:

    My surge brakes will actually lock up when braking hard.  This happens even without the truck's ABS engaging, so it's not that "emergency stop" but rather just hard braking.  Still, I think you are correct there shouldn't be a problem with a cushioned hitch.  That play should be much more minimal than what is required to activate the surge brakes.  Might even prevent the locking up I described.  Hmmm...

    I agree, the more I think about it I really don't think it will affect it at all. Again after years of towing as far as braking I did not notice and difference. If anything, the cushion will lessen the force of the stop making the brakes come on a 1/10 of a second later. If that time lag AND if am right makes a difference, than we are not driving correctly too.      

     

    Just buy one and it makes for a more conformable ride when towing.  

  7. 1 hour ago, 1830_ss said:

    Thanks everyone for your comments! I have tweaked my diagram based on your suggestions. 

    I was in the boat yesterday and tried to update the cables coming from the engine and just can barely fit my hand in there to reach the negative cable and can't seem to get a wrench in there without removing things first so I'm just leaving them. They are fine, I just thought I'd update them BC I got some really nice 1 AWG cables. 

    I also am having trouble locating my power cable coming from the helm. It's run through conduit in the hull and comes out in the bilge.  It is wrapped in a bundle of other wires and covered. The bundle splits a couple of times and terminates in different spots on my engine. 

    I'm thinking of just disconnecting the red cable from the helm, capping it and running a 4 AWG cable in its place to the house battery. So all the electronics will use the house and the starting batt will be just for starting, blower, and the bilge pump. 

    I would keep it simple. Why not and fuse it at your starting point, most likely the battery switch. Just run new cable up the helm. Then install a fuse panel, they come in all shapes and sizes. This will give you plenty of power is you size it right.

    As in  https://www.boatersland.com/blu5026.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw-YT1BRAFEiwAd2WRtvtJgd_2rB4LSbxUkaKLupBmyAk7LzO2jJ2WEWxHB7fgEwq6CvUmphoC5SIQAvD_BwE 

    I would do it more so if you adding things like, VHF, AIS, fishfinder, GPS, radar and a N2K network.   Right there  is 20 amps give or take.

  8. 32 minutes ago, dan02gt said:

    JL Audio, Wet Sounds, and Kicker all make good marine speakers.

    Yep! Plus Rockford Fosgate. If you want the best of the best, look into Bowers & Wilkins

  9. 4 hours ago, Senior said:

    OMG!  Waiting for a new boat is worse than a 10 year old waiting to open presents on Christmas morning!  My docks were installed Monday, I got all of my personal gear off the old boat yesterday and said goodbye! I just scheduled delivery of the new boat for next Thursday 4/30. Weather in Milwaukee next week should be 55 degrees and sunny!

    So true!! We have out grown our Sig 290. We have a deposit on a Cutwater 30C. Sorry leaving the Chap family!   

  10. That on-board computer as you call it may not be a chart plotter. By adding a GPS unit like Garmin, Raymarine, Furuno and more. You will get all the features that come with it that you may not otherwise have. Like adding routes, local services, MPG, GPH, anchor alarm, adding radar or AIS and the list could go on.  

  11. 8 hours ago, 1830_ss said:

    Thanks for the reply and the diagram! Thanks for pointing out the ground to the switch! I now know this is where I need to hook all of my boat's other electronics to and not a ground. 

    Blue Sea diagrams show to follow your suggestion and to wires the ACR to the batteries after the switch but I've heard of wiring it before the switch. 

    I'm really just hoping to be able to float or anchor and listen to some tunes without worrying about draining my battery. Also, sometimes my boat sits for a couple of weeks and would benefit from being able to combine the batteries for an emergency start. 

    Thanks agin! 

    I get what your trying to do!! Personally ether switch will work, but I like the dual battery switch because now you can start your engine on ether battery alone. It just depends on what you want to do in the end.

    Another way just to throw it out there. Have three switches, just food for thought! You would use a 2 connecting bars (not wire) between the switches.  

    Battery Management Wiring Schematics for Typical Applications ...

  12. 8 hours ago, 1830_ss said:

    The diagram on the BS website shows the ACR wired to the batteries. Is there an advantage to the way you suggested?

    As mentioned, there should be less of a voltage drop. Below is the specs, look at low open as in example if the voltage drops below 12.35V the ARC will open. You dont want to add more resistance by adding more wire. So you connect the ARC to the batteries. Resistance equals a voltage drop, if you have enough you get heat as Mr. Tunes mentioned. 

    Relay Contact Position: -Combine (30 sec.) 13.5V

     -Combine (90 sec.) 13.0V

     -Open Low (10 sec.) 12.35V

     -Open Low (30 sec.) 12.75V

    Open High 16.2V  

  13. Personally, I would just use a dual battery switch. This will give you complete control over this system. You can turn on ether battery and combine them if needed. In this way you can use ether battery to start or run your sound system give equal use to both batteries. But to each there own, that switch will work too. 

     

    Also, I see that you have a ground wire going to the switch. That will short out one or both batteries depending where the switch is set to. But from your pic, you don't need a dual circuit switch. You not turning anything else off other than to start your engine. Your powering your amp directly off the battery.  

     

    The size wire is all dependent on load and distance. This is where that math comes in. But if I had the heaver wire and knowing the lighter wire will carry the load to. Its best to use the heaver wire at that battery to the switch and bus bar. This will give you a smaller voltage drop.  I don't think you need run a wire from the bus bar to the engine, find the battery that has the Neg wire going to the engine. Use that Neg side of the battery to the bus bar. OR use that wire off the battery, connect it to the bus bar than run a wire from the bus bar back to the battery. Ether way!

     

    Personally, I would connect the ARC directly to the batteries and fuse each side. If you connect the to the switch, there could be a voltage drop due to the extra wiring and switch. In other words, it will not work the way it should.

     

    Note the wiring diagram  ML-ACRs.jpg

     

     

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