Iggy
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Posts posted by Iggy
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I have added, not these, pull up cleats. When you say "require a large slot to recess the cleat" On all of them, you will need to get behind them to tighten them down. So I am not sure what you are driving at.
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My new boat goes in this Saturday afternoon! The waiting is killing me. I have a lot to do, and not much free time for the next 3 weeks. Than I am taking a week off and spending at least 5 working on her.
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That's a beautiful boat!
Yep, it is!
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Good luck with it!!!
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If your going to install shore power, I would have a pro do it. The last thing you want is a fire aboad your boat!! No has mentioned breakers, bonding wires, fault lights, or a main panel. If your going to do it, do it right. A.C. power on boats, are not that simple, as in a house.
The charger will need a 15A breaker, the main a 30a breaker and I would add one or 2 outlets and they need breakers. The outlets will need to be GFI. Everthing needs to be marine rated, (the GFI's I am not sure)
This could open a new world for you, heat, coffee pot,..........
Once you the this all done or do the batteries first, then you can go into your battery setup as to adding battery combiners or isolators.
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What comes to mind when you mentioned the fuel tank. The new fuel will eat though some of the older tanks. I have heard that ever thing in the fuel system may need to be replaced. As in O-rings, gaskits....... on some older boats.
I would also take a U.S.C.G. course
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Well guys here is the update on this issue: I took the advice several of you offered regarding disconnecting the remotes. I decided to plug them in one at a time and power up the stereo to see if I could isolate the problem. Turns out it was the remote on the transom that was locking everything up. When I plugged the remote on the helm back in, everything worked perfect, but when I plugged in the transom remote it locked up again. So now I need to find a JBL 35w remote in white. Unfortunately it is a discontinued unit. To be continued....
Time to up grade! Glad you fixed it.
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What you first need to ask your self, "what depths do I anchor in?" You should want a 4 to 6 scope in your rode. So if your in 10ft of water & want a 5:1 scope = 50ft of line/rode. The more rode the better, more so if a storm comes up. Basally the same with the chain. Six feet of chain for me is too little. To me more like 15 to 30ft of 1/4 to 5/16ths chain is more in line depending on the size of your boat.
The chain helps to keep the shank level to the bottom which means more holding power. One foot of chain is equal to 4 or 5 ft of rode.Don't short change your self on the chain.
Personaly I like the fortress type anchors. They have great holding power! http://www.fortressanchors.com/
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nice reference.
If he reads it, it should answer his question which was not clearly stated.
True
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It sounds like you have a standard dual battery setup, yes? Its not a starting & house type setup.
With both batteries being equal/same type than it really does not matter in ether case. But you need to know what they are, deep cycle, starting, or made to do both. You may have one starting & one deep cycle.
To truly answer your question, please let us know the types of battery's & if you have a house battery setup. Most smaller boat just have a standard dual setup which most likely you have.
I would do it your self, this is how we learn by asking questions. Its not hard once you understand the setup!
Here is some good reading http://www.boat-project.com/tutorials/dualbatt1.htm
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I never had to wait with a bad remote or diconnect it. It will not hurt, but I don't think its needed. As with anything like this, always power down, connect or disconnect, than power back up.
Commonly what happens, is that a button on the remote is shorted as if it is being depressed. This locks up the head unit. Depending on how its wired, disconnect one at a time or all of them and power back up to find out which one is bad.
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Be safe, go with the marine grade, there ignition proof. How much more could it cost.
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I don't know about a security code. But if that was it, you think it would display something along those lines.
I have sean this with other decks. Try, disconnecting each remote, you may have a bad one.
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What comes to mind for me, is those 12v florescent lights that are mount above the sink. Every boat I have owned, had a simple piece of wire as a att. I bought one of those rubber att. made for a car that bends. Like this one: http://www.bing.com/shopping/mobile-rv-audio-accesories-antennas-magnadyne-am-fm-rubber-antenna/p/1FB1AEBD2661C9D934DC?q=rubber+fm+anttenna&lpf=0&lpq=rubber%2bfm%2banttenna&FORM=CMSMEE
It worked a little better.For bucks i cant complain!
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As to a fuse, there must be one. Not knowing your model myself, I can't tell you were. I would look by you battery switch & any breaker/fuse panels you have.
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Sounds good, mechanically ... the battery might be still too weak.
Take another good battery (or jumper cable, booster pack, etc) and
try again before getting worked up with any potential mechanical issues.
Yep!
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For me, the confusion in some of this comes in when you don't actually plan to have an engine side and house side to the equation, just a second battery to switch to once the first one is drained down.
I fully understand the concepts of the house breaker panel being wired directly to 1 battery and the engine to the 2nd battery, but when you only have 1 battery from the factory and don't plan to split the house & engine supplies, that seems to be the question never answered when looking at all these posts, BlueSea website, et al.
You could say that it is being answered. All you need to do is add a battery switch to change it from a house to a starting battery. Its about how you wire it to get the most out of it "for you". We are basally talking about charging ether one up.
So for you you have 2 batteries and a dual switch.(For now leave shore power out of this) Now you can leave it at that and switch back & forth so both are bing used and charged up. With a combine OR VSR, both batteries will charge if the switch is to #1 or #2. The ARC system is more limited. It can help the starting battery, but with that system alone it can never start the engine on its own.
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I have heard of the before and the alternator died. When you get the engine started, check to see if your getting a charge voltage at the battery. Hopefully, nothing went south!
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It's not that important to me to go fast. I like going around 24 to 25 knots, faster than that, it can get rough out there. I am installing 2 fuel flow sensors (Sig 290) and dispaly the info on my GPS. I like finding the best MPG and knowing what it is.
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A. Some one did not know what they were doing.
B. There is a problem with one or both and its draining the battery.
Makes no since to me.
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Iggy, sorry ... I had no intention to go into vendor evaluation mode here. I just had expressed my opinion that was based on facts that I did not care to dive into in my previous commentary. I should have been more descriptive.
The thing that put me off with Yandina, beside the dreadful look and finish of their products (and website), is lack of any certification ... none I could find on their website or in their manuals. None of the required regional certs like UL, CSA, CE, nor marine certs from USCG, ABYC, or specifically SEA J1171 (ignition protection). Playing with electricity on a boat is a serious business ... the products from other mentioned vendors carry multiple certifications.
The fact that West Marine dropped Yandina in 2005, and does not carry Yandina products anymore, does not give any more confidence. I trust your judgement and believe that their products work, and are well supported ... they are just not for me.
I see said the blind man. They are poted, but point well taken.
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So true. Don't forget the combiner can be set to Auto, so both are a "set if and forget' concept".
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Yandina makes combiners for West Marine and others. Ask AndyChamp how long he has had his & any problems if any. Forgive me, but it you can't explain why, than there is no problems. All Yandina's combiners have a life time warranty. E-mail them them on a Sunday, I bet you will get a responce within 2 or 3 hours. Great customer service.
All VSRs and combiners work the same.They see a charge voltage and they close, no charge voltage & they open.
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I think you just posted two contradicting or inconsistent answers ...
I have a VSR and I cannot start the engine using the house battery on its own ... I can use the parallel switch and start the engine that way. So in my case VSR works like supposedly inferior ACR.
Looks to me that both, ACR and VSR function the same way, and are only named differently by different manufacturers. How batteries are wired, true separation of purpose vs two equally utilized units, is a choice of the boat builder or user, and can exercised by wiring the switches accordingly. I think all previous responses pointed to this conclusion ... just need to read them carefully and follow the links.
Yes, that is what I am saying. It is on how it is used & wired.
Drain covers?
in Newbies
Posted
Yep!