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Posts posted by Iggy

  1. http://www.yandina.com/

    I went with Perko 2-ALL-1-OFF switch and west marine combiner. Batt number 2 DOES have the AMP directly wired to the Batt (had problems with alt whine through the stereo when going through the switch). If I do kill Batt 2 on the hook playing the stereo for hours, I simply switch to Batt 1, start and go home (have done this a number of times).


    I DID leave the original ON OFF switch with the "key" handle as a "little bit"(very little bit) of extra security when I leave the boat overnight at unfamiliar marina ( I pull the key out in the OFF position and take with boat key)


    To me, the above set up for the most part is right. The combiner from ( http://www.yandina.com/ ) works very well. It come in 3 types 50, 100 & 150 amps. Note the green wire, that is a control wire. From the helm you can set it to Auto, close the combiner or open it. Giving you full control over it.

    So if your battery is having a hard time starting your engine. From the helm you can combine 2 batteries with out moving.

  2. ??? missed somthing. Ha,Ha......Not that Old....My Old school was two batteries and a battery switch with 1, Off, 2, 1&2. You manage the charge and start. Worked for me since the 80's. I also like the option of choosing which battery to use to start.

    An engine whether fuel injected or carb is not the question. If you have a dead or shorted battery and parallel it with a good battery in the "combine" position, then it will drag down the good battery for a slow start or no start. Yeah I know we = when we Jump start a car. but a shorted battery can act as a load, so now you are shareing the output of the good battery. The new electronic FI, computer managed systems don't like under voltage and won't work even if it will barely crank.

    With the 1or 2 or both, you can isolate which battery to start with. The Add a Battery only option is Combine.

    Hence my point. (above) A VSR or combiner is great. But the way the ARC system is setup, to me is no good. I would want to know that ether battery can on it own start the engine. But that's me!

  3. Iggy,


    Your comment "One thing I don't like about it is that you can not start your engine on ether battery alone". Is a bit of a surprise. Their has been a lot of discussion about that system vs. just a switch. With the 'Add-a-battery' system, you have a three position switch , off/ on/ emergency(combine). Battery one should be a starting battery, battery 2 should be your house. Under normal operation, your starting battery will only be used for that purpose and the house for all other functions. The system will not let you run your starting battery down without interference from the user. The only reason I can think of that you need to start from just battery 2 is if battery 1 goes bad or shorts, then you would not want that battery pulling down your system. otherwise, you will never have a dead starting battery. Under your plan, if the user forgets to switch over, he could run them both dead or the wrong battery down.


    As to, under my plan. Not true, that's were the combiner comes into play.

  4. 1991 2100 SX 350 Merc engine. When I turn the key to the start position (one past the on position), all I hear is a clicking noise from the engine. After about 3 or 4 tries (with the same clicking noise), the starter will finally start turning and start the engine.

    Do you think this is just the starter relay? Im guessing the starter motor is OK being that it eventually does start cranking and turns the engine.

    Or is there some other relay somehwere that can be doing this?



    Not hearing it, when it " the starter will finally start turning and start the engine." Does it sound normal, as in, is the engine turning over at a normal speed? If so, then its your starting motor.

    If it was your battery and cables, (I would check anyways, too simple not to do) it would not start at all. Or at least turn over slowly.

  5. I would stay away from the ARC system. One thing I don't like about it is that you can not start your engine on ether battery alone. And price too.

    Buy your self a dual battery switch and swap it out with the one you have now. Use the below link. Run a cable from the new battery NEG side to the old one. Than run a cable from the new POS side battery to the new switch. Not hard to do!!

    Some boaters swap back & forth between batterers. From day to day, or go out on #1 & come back on #2 battery. To add to this, you can add a combiner that will charge both batterers up when the engine is running. Still cheaper and better than the Arc system.

    Follow this too http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/graphics/dualBatterySglEngine441x370.gif&imgrefurl=http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/dualBattery.html&h=370&w=441&sz=9&tbnid=0FaIB_pDDBevBM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=107&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dmarine%2Bdual%2Bbattery%2Bswitch%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=marine+dual+battery+switch&usg=__csGn8y9Rq2o3IThVO_lC1c_eY1Q=&docid=rMzwWpKLoctu1M&hl=en&sa=X&ei=9DFeUdXcL6SU0QGN64HIBA&ved=0CE0Q9QEwAA&dur=71

  6. I find it odd, too about how hard one needs to try now for good source quality. We've traded sound quality for convienence in many cases, and many people don't even realize they've traded off quality. I also find it strange that powerful bass is now associated with a quality system. In the past, we worked as hard as we could for a perfectly flat tone curve in the listening space. I have an old McIntosh equalizer that came with a kit of caps that could be swapped out to ultra-fine tune the system to the room for a dead flat curve. The more the amp and speakers could disappear, the better. Now, with the sub-woofer systems, it's completely up to the end user to try and balance the system, but without a reference point that can be very hard to do. Most stores seem to sell the idea that the bigger the thump, the better the system. Go into Best Buy and it sounds like a continual thunderstorm rumbling away. I don't get it.

    Ya know, your right!!!!!!!!!!!

  7. Bro....just keep it simple. Go to wal-mart and pickup some Mobil 1 15w-50 full synthetic. Easy and great protection for your engine.

    Yes!! Remeber, its a car engine (really a truck, but keep it simple). So thing like oil can carry over to the boating world.

  8. I am not fallowing you on "You are right about the new DACs being almost the same" I never mentioned "same". Just that the built in ones to under 200 CD players & MP3 players and alike are junk. I think its funny that it cost so much $$ to have good music in the digital age and in the 70s a good Dual turntable was 150 the cartridge 75 and it was great. OK double that in todays world, but there harder to find.

    That is one reason I went with Fusion on the boat. Better DACs that most, but it's a boat.

  9. Yep, been there. Time for a new amp. BUT to change the subject a little. Going from LP to CDs, at first I thought they sounded better. As time went on, I just didn't think so. About 10years ago I got on the web and found what is called a D.A.C. (Digital to Analogue Converter) http://www.witchdoctor.co.nz/index.php/2011/01/firestone-audio-spitfire-mkii-dac-review/

    What a difference it made in the sound. These MP3 players and $ cd players have cheap D.A.C.s that just do not bring out the best in music. I paid about $ for it & will worth it. As D.A.C.s go, this is a cheap one, some go as high as $. Too much for me, but at $ I am hearing things in the music that I have never heard before. I must have!!

  10. I'm not sure about the Volvo small block, but I'm pretty sure full closed systems are available for the merc. I thought they were for Volvo as well. If so, and you really want closed cooling, I would spring for the extra cost and get full closed. To me, half closed hardly makes sense. Yes, you're protecting the block, but that's all. You're still exposing the engine to the full risk of a manifold failure, which can destroy the engine, anyway.

    If you have no way to flush, and the boat will stay in the water full time, I suppose half closed is better than open. If the boat is on the dry, why bother? You still have a lot of expensive machinery bathed in salt that you'll want to flush. I've been told by every marine mechanic I've known and trusted that a saltwater block flushed after use will be mechanically worn out long before it rusts out. If you are planning on leaving the boat in the salt water for long stretches, I think you'd be much better off finding a fully closed system.

    One boat I had was a 2007 Merc 350, a dry joint. I could only get it a half system. Why, I do not know? That too was from San Juan Eng. As I mentioned great people to work with!!

    Volvos can be flushed out while they are still in the water, Mercs can not. But I am adding a Nutra-salt system to keep things simple.Keep in mind to, that some e. manifold are coated or ceramic lined.

  11. I don't know, I don't get it ether. My dog eat my decoder ring years ago,

    The bigger thing here is. A fully closed system is better, BUT for some reason Volvo & Merc are building the engines only to take a half system. So half it is! Myself, I am installing a Nutra-salt system for the e. manifolds.

  12. Depending on the waters, I would not let them float. The growth will build up quickly in salt water. Mine are pulled tight so they don't pop up onto the dock or try to go under the dock.

  13. Engine water temperatures can cause large amounts of suspended particles to become difficult problems.

    Web search corrosion rates in 1/2 closed cooling systems Then click on post...... Chapter 24 about GE infrastructure

    Scroll down to Calcium Carbonate protective scale. It describes how pot luck keeping solids suspended is with a rising temperature.

    A fully closed system in a boat would be ideal. But the bulk & heat rise in the engine room would be a cost problem.

    You better read it again. There not talking about boats!! Its a general statement. I disagree with you completely.

    On your " The cooling water that goes thru the engine block heat exchanger can be used to cool the exhaust manifolds" Thats a full system then, I have never heard of a "engine block heat exchanger". "Not all 1/2 systems do this. Some do dump the heated cooling water from the heat exchanger overboard." What you are saying is that NO water goes into the exhaust manifolds than. Thats wrong!! Forgive me, do you understand what a full to a half system is?? Were talking Chevy basied engines now.

    On your "A fully closed system in a boat would be ideal." YES, on that point!!

    On your "But the bulk & heat rise in the engine room would be a cost problem" What problem or problems? If any thing, it would reduce any problems. Your engine would constantly run at a normal operating temp. The t-stat would better control the temp because it is a closed system.

    On your "The heated water is probably too hot coming from a closed engine running a hotter than 140 F thermostat. Above 140 F the salts in the water come out of suspension & start to bind to any surface" Than your in deeper do do than some one with a closed system then. Most engines run at 160 to 170 with the raw water going though it. Closed systems, for the most part run at 170 to 175. From your statement than, every one with an open system in salt water should be overheating in time because "start to bind to any surface" so the cooling system is clogging up. Really??

  14. I would use the normal 4 to 6" fenders and hang them down. Not across. Two or 3 would do it to protect the stern. On the side of the finger. I would use 6" fenders, the though line ones http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10391|321174|30250|321910&id=594261

    Using eye screws, mount the fenders, end over end to each other with the eye screws in between. As if in a chain, In this way they can't pop up or down and no need to put out fender on your way into the slip.

  15. I have used both Lowrance and Garmin. I went with the Garmin, better tech support, easier to use & setup. It was also more NMEA2k friendly to non-Garmin products than the Lowrance unit. The GPS & radar overlay on the Garmins work out well. Better than I would have thought, My first problem was, getting the overlays to line up. I add a electronic compass which resolved that.

    I add the 18"HD radar dome. It was simple to hook up. A power cable and a data cable using a 8pin RJ45 connector.

    If your going to get into radar, I would try to get the biggest screen I could. The bigger the better, more so if your going to split the screen. Having a separate fish finder has help me out on that.

    Now add the NMEA2K network and your GPS can display tons of info. Fuel rate/GPH, MPG, depth, speed, temp, AIS targets, your VHF will have you updated postion and more.

  16. Too many moving parts for me!! I had the hand pump and converted with a 12v motor. You take the hand pump right out and this fits right in. Other than running wires, about 10min of work.


    I have seen it cheaper, I had it on my old boat for 2 years, worked great. It adds water as it sucks the bowl out. ALL the working parts are right there, if it only lasted 3 years to me it would be worth it, pull it out & install a new one. I have dealt with Vac-u-flushes, too many moving parts, too many thing can go wrong, & the parts are not cheap. Even dealing the distributor, Northeast Sanitation.

  17. should be a backing plate then washers to spread out the load, be careful if you use a spring line,

    to hang fender on rail,


    to install on side of boat, I use these ,love them.


    So true on the above. As to the curve of the boat, you could use starboard as a bed to even it off.

    Midship cleats for me is a must. Coming into any slip, the wife has the stern line and midship lines ready. Any good dock hand will take that midship line & cleat it. This will suck you right into the dock. Your bow or stern will not swing out.

  18. I would call Garmin, they are very helpful! 800-800-1020

    That unit came out in 2006. I am willing to bet the cables are different, but thats easy in changing cables. The harder part will be fitting the new one to your dash, you may need to use a good rasp file or saw to make the opening bigger. All in all, its not that hard to do

    There web site is very helpful too. Here is a link for your unit template: http://www8.garmin.com/manuals/641_FlushMountTemplate.pdf From it, you could try to match the closest new unit that fits.

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