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Iggy

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Posts posted by Iggy

  1. But the tool. Take your time, double check things. Than later you can look at is and say job well done! PLUS, you will have the tool the next time something like this comes up.

    Just an FYI, at the start of each each year you should lube them. It come in a tube, like lipstick.

  2. As I mentioned, I just bought the same boat. So right now my wife is not too happy with me. I been buying things for the new boat. She says I am as bad is a little kid.

    Ok, so I had to buy wire, a VHF ant., the mount for that, an extra bilged pump with ever thing needed to install it, deck lights, extra remote the deck, transducer, cleats, S.S. hardware, NMEA2k connectors and I must have lift something out. I don't see any problems in this.

  3. I changed over to AGM battiers. There more $$ say 2X, but you will not have that problem. Mine come with a 4yr replacement & 100 month prorated warrenty.

    I leave them in all winter & the boat starts up ever spring. There now hitting 5yrs old, so far so good.

  4. Put Smart tabs on my '05 180 SSI 2 years ago. Planes out in the low to mid teens, smooths out the ride in chop, and eliminated the wander at no wake speed. Dropped the top end by about 2MPH but it's still the best thing I've added to my boat and substantially improved the ride and handling.

    My next project is sitting in a crate in the barn. Ordered a swim platform from swimplatforms.com a couple months ago and have been waiting for the weather to cooperate, however summer comes slowly in Upstate NY. This mornings project was to brush the snow off the boat and cars.

    Unlike some, I'm not queezy at all about drilling a perfectly good boat if I think I can make it better.

    Yep!

  5. I do all my boating for the past 13 years in salt water and every year I paint the bottom. I have never heard of fresh water bottom paint.

    Here is a link http://pettitpaint.com/ to the Pettit site. No meantion of it there too.

    I would ask the past owner what he used. I am thinking your boat is painted with a low copper based paint. That would make more since and he is calling it fresh water paint. Depending on how long your going to leave it in. You may want to paint the drive & prop too and use a 40 or even better a 60% copper based paint on the bottom!! The longer you leave it in, the more protection (higher copper) you are going to need. Do NOT use copper paint on your drive, they make a paint just for that.

    Beaware too, that some lakes will not allow copper based painted boats on there lakes. The eco paints do not work as well!!

    As too slowing down the boat. All bottom paint will, the question is how much. You may lose 2 or 3 mph at top end. BUT it beats cleaning the bottom, the growth can slow you down even more.

  6. My girl now 4 years old has been boating since she was 5 months. Knows more about boats than most adults. She immediately puts on her vest, checks to see if I put the battery on then asks to turn on the blower. She knows what a no wake zone is along with other important things on the boat.

    She's cute!!!

    I can't wait until she ask you for the keys to the boat. I have 3 kids 25, 30 & 32 yrs old.

    My daught called me up years ago when she used my car. I think she was 19 at the time and said "I got 2 flat tires, what should I do?"

  7. I have owned both brands. I have 740 & a 740s. Before I bought the 740s, I had a 5" DSI unit. I can't think of the model# right now. It would not interface via NMEA2k network properly to show GPH and depth to the 740. Garmin tried to help & Lowrence was almost no help at all.

    On the DSI side, I could NEVER get the detail as there web site shows. One tech there said "you nervier will". I just find the Garmin is easier to deal with and to use.

    I tred Lowrance, I wanted to see if I was missing something by sticking with one brand.

  8. A fully closed system is the way to go. If I lived on a lake I would have closed system too if I was plammimg to keep the boat. You only need to change out the risers when needed. With a closed system there really is no need to flush. You risers and heat exchanger may last longer, but your engine & manifold will last forever.

    I can't say I have the most, every few years I have been upgrading.

  9. I wonder if the props were installed properly with regard to the timing of the blades Greg. Large inner prop blades at 12, 4 and 8 o-clock positions and the smaller outer prop blades at the 2, 6 and 10 o-clock positions. If the blades were not installed and timed properly it could result in cavitation (air/vaccum/voids) when the props are spun at higher RPMs under load.

    This is were I am leek on! for 12 years I have had both Merc & Volvos and alway taken the props off and on & never lined anything up. Its always worked out!

  10. Hey Iggy,

    Lemmeknow how/where you put your new cleats. I have a 240 sig and am getting ready to put two new rear cleats on the boat, probably where some folks put their fishing pole holders. We have a really high dock and need to place the fenders high on the hull. I will post when I'm done as well.

    On the midship cleats, I want to be able to lean out. On my last boat, I put a folding step on the port side for my wife to reach it. She's 5,2 and I 5,5 so were not tall people.

  11. What is the hp rating of your tube engine?

    I will be ordering LEHR soon and I am torn between 2.5hp (for weight), and 5.0hp (for power).

    I wish there was a 3.5-4hp option. The 5.0hp is technically overrated for my Zodiac Zoom.

    Any advise?

    Any problems with the tender getting sucked by a prop wash, especially in reverse?

    In forward, not at all. In reverse, I never tried it, when it comes to docking when I really need reverse. I pull the inflatable along side to get it out of the way.

  12. I would add the closed system!! But first I would pull the Tstat to see how much rust in in there. If theres too much it will clog the heat exchanger. I have added them to my 2 past boats but both had under 20hrs on them.

    For me, I would not buy a boat with out a full closed system. But thats me! The engine will last longer, less work in the fall and the boat will hold its $$$ more.

  13. I have a 2008 Sig. 330 (now the 350). Bought it last September and really haven't had the chance to spend much time on it due to the "hard water" here in Michigan at the present time. When moving the boat to my permanent location I noticed that when accelerating to get on plane, if I did it too fast the props would lose traction and seem to spin as if there were a hub issue, but if I backed off, it would grab again with no problem. Engines are 350 mag, Merc with Bravo III drives. I'm wondering if this is normal and I was trying to accelerate too fast for the weight, or if there actually is a problem with the hubs. The trip was 250 miles and no other issues, it only happened when getting on plane. Thoughts? Thanks, Greg

    Bravo 3s have a splined shift. So there can not be any slippage there. I would check the props for damge and if the props were ever changed out make sure there the right pitch & size for your boat. Did your RPM go up or down when this happened?

  14. I am new to Chaparral so the 240 I would think is 25ft long. In Richards W. Pics, I have done the 2nd one amy times & it works well for me on my old 23 & 26 foot boat. What happened to me was when I flipped it up (as in the 1st pic) it acted like a sail catching the wind. The front of my boat was not high enough!!

    As to the 2.5hp, go with at least a 3.5 to a 5hp. I get it, the wight, but the wind and current will take that inflatable & push it around. I store the motor in the locker on the back and always put a line on it and cleat it off in case I drop it into the water.

  15. bought a 2012 chap 330 and agree the placement of cleats leave a lot to be desired.. The canvas on my boat is a big issue as to the leaking when it rains. Also the aft canvas leaves a lot to be desired,cannot allow people to sit at the aft seat when it is up,they constantly have to lean forward in order not to have their heads against the glass? Have had other issues but chap is trying? Dealer has been great , I was considering the 310 but agree with you not a live aboard,that is why we went with the 330. Good luck with the new boat.

    I just bought a 2011 Sig 290 and the midship & stern cleats to me are in the wrong spots!! I take delivery in May, so I have alread bought 2 sets of new cleats for the boat. Midship, you should be able to lean over and cleat your line. Not walk out on the bow to do it!!

    Anyways, good luck on the new boat!

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