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Posts posted by Iggy

  1. 2 hours ago, Paul W said:

    so they won't operate on shore power ? I need to have the house battery on too ? Wont the boat convert 120v to 12v ?

    Your charger will convert 120v to 12v. Thats why most chargers for the Sig model is in the 40 to 50 amp range. So it can handel the 12v load and keep the batteries up.

  2. 3 hours ago, rjbergen said:

    Starting ability is related to CCA and MCA. Same current draw test conducted at different temperatures. 

    Your engine manual will specify how many CCA are required for reliable starting. For an 8.1 I would expect that to be in the 650-800 CCA range minimum. More is always better. 

    I prefer running Group 31 batteries as they are the largest you can get without going to 4D or 8D. Those 4D and 8D batteries are outright unwieldy and weigh over 100 lbs. Group 31s are perfect for all boats under 40’ or so. 


  3. What boat would I like??  Thats a big question!!  BUT it all depends on how you want to use your boat!! We live on it on the weekends, take one to two week trips. 

    I am buying a Cutwater 30S. Or at lest I think I am? This week going to finish the deal for next year delivery. A Chap will not fit our needs!


    We looked at swift trawlers, Mainships, Albins and Selene. All a little to slow for us. 

  4. 11 hours ago, Tom Ehrhart said:

    I plan to crawl under the helm today and take a few pictures.   With the NMEA 2000 vs 0183, to you think its worth the effort for installing a NMEA network vs simple wiring of the 0183.  If I understand correctly, the 2000 offers more data vs abbreviations with 0183.    At this point though, no plan to add other electronics.  


    Go with the NMEA2k network. As time goes on you may add things. My GPS, VHS, AIS, both engines date and Fusion head unit all talk to each other. 

  5. Personal, I would scope out the helm. Chances are you will find a Pos and Neg bus bar of some sort. Of course fuse everything, but I would not attach the VHF to a accessory switch but the NMEA2k network I would.

    If you want to use the VHF that will be a 2 step operation. Also for safety sake it will be a faster way to get the VHF up and running. Let say something happens to the Capt. Peolpe on board my not know that the Acc. switch needs to be turned on first. Its not labeled VHF.

    Yes, Cyclops is right but must modern VHFs can scan.  

  6. 2 minutes ago, MonacoMike said:

    Someone here should point out the obvious,  the CG only approves fixtures, not bulbs.  Therefore if the bulb is replaced with a bulb type not manufacturer recommend the light is no longer CG approved.   It will not matter until it does.  These are serious matters not to be taken lightly.  A friend put in bulbs, the super bright LED sounds better, however the color was washed out to the point it looked like a white light in the distance.  The lens was not made to diffuse LED light.  


    Additionally the CG has a warning out concerning LED lights and VHF interference.  You should test to be certain the LED lighting is not affecting your VHF performance.

    https://www.dco.uscg.mil/Portals/9/DCO Documents/5p/CG-5PC/INV/Alerts/1318.pdf?ver=2018-08-16-091109-630


    With the above said too....

    I found it easier just to replace the hole fixture. Keep in mind, that there potted so the contacts or connections can not rust up.


  7. 17 hours ago, kevinwright9 said:

    Quick update.  I did get the Garmin 742xs installed.  Had to order the dash panel from a 2018 246 SSi, but it is the same size and wood grain look.  I also added the Yacht Devices Gateway for my Volvo engine.  I did have to rewire the connection, but they provided instructions and it was pretty easy.  I did have to keep my speedometer as the power for my multigauge came from the speedometer.  The technician who installed this thinks there may be a harness, but he wasn't sure.  So my speedometer is tied up tight under the console along with my NMEA2000 network.


    Image.heic 200.88 kB · 8 downloads

    I think the yacht devices is the way to go. Its cheaper and easier to do the same thing. I did it years ago when my tech broke.

  8. Most of these boaters on the forum are lake boaters. So SALT to them is a very bad word! 


    I have a Sig 290 that has been in salt for 8 years now. It goes in the water in late May and Comes out in mid October. I don't flush! But I do have a closed system. 

    I can't say any of my problems have been from salt water.

  9. 2 hours ago, Was_Wylie_Tunes said:

    Its a hard no, for me. 

    There are two types, you have lithium -ion and lithium polymer.  The ion is the type you have to worry more about.


    Now the type that go into our boats is ion, but they have built into the battery a "Battery Management System". Not to get into it here, but it makes the battery a lot safer. Unlike cell phones! The down side, about 4x the price of an AGM . The up side is that there 1/2 the wight  and can discharge around 40 to 30%.


    I would wait another 2 to 4 years for a price drop. 


  10. 23 hours ago, cyclops2 said:

    Your problem seems to be random ?  Are both engines now perfect.

    I Have Done a advanced throttle shift by accident. ..... Have your linkages checked for sticking. Or looseness. A loose gear shift will allow advancing throttle without the perfect throttle tracking. Had 1 of those.

    I am waiting for the new part to come in. So the port engine works good now. 

  11. I just did a 7 day trip doing about 150 miles. Not sure if that matters, but anyways. The day before leaving I was at the gas dock. I restarted (I have twin 4.3L ) the engines. I put the port engine in gear and had a small bang from the drive engaging. I first thought drive problem and noticed that engine was at 1800 RPMs. The next day, Saturday made it home with no problems, both engines ran great.  

    Today, after a little reading went after the IAC unit. Mainly I was reading no start or stalling. I pulled the IAC unit off the starboard engine, installed it in the port engine and now it idles fine. Just though I would mention it since everything I read never mentioned high idle.

    So new IAC!! 


  12. To each their own!  There are many ways to look at this. First I would check the complete setup and make sure that the #2 battery is charging when the switch is on #1. The switch alone can not do this. You must have a battery combiner or a ARC.

    Running on Both is all well and good. But it gives you no backup. I size my batteries to my load and how long I wish to use that load. Keeping in mind that I have a 2nd bank to fall bank onto. Or what I call my house bank of 3 batteries, that powers my fridge, music, head..............  Than my starting battery 

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