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Posts posted by Iggy

  1. Go for it!  There are many u-Tube videos on this.  Lewmar makes a great windless and there web site is very helpful. I would check it out.

  2. 2 hours ago, Steve&Steph said:

    I have the tiny fluke anchor that came with my 257SSX.  It might be 4-5lbs.  I have 0 chain and anchor every weekend in a midwestern mud bottom lake.  I have literally had 0 times that my anchor has not “hooked”.  I simply find a spot, stop the boat from moving, do my best to THROW the anchor into the wind, so the boat is pulling back, make sure there is nothing behind you as you will move back from slack.  Let out a lot of rope.  Do I ever get to 5:1 or 7:1 ration, almost never.  Our lake is 20’-60’ deep and I have 200’ of rope and typically only use  1.5:1 - 3:1.  We get lots of wind and again, no issues.  Occasionally I will get into a rock bottom cove that the anchor will drag in a little, but eventually hook.  Using your front bow D ring will help as it’s lower to the water and will help with the pulling angle (what you are doing by letting out a lot of rope).  You can use a Danik hook (google)  to make this easier. 

    Not hooking is almost always because you don’t have enough rope out.  Throw your anchor into the wind..  if you throw your anchor across or with the wind, understand that your boat is going to move over it, or to the side until it’s pulling against it.  Chain won’t hurt, but I have never needed it.  

    This goes back to local knowledge. What works for your area may not work for others. As JJlai mentioned and I wholeheartedly agree. 

  3. 7 hours ago, SST said:

    You proved my point. You knew there were "isolated thunderstorms" out there and you went anyways. You knew ahead of time.

    That remains to be seen. This storm was more than the average thunderstorm. Thunderstorms are a funny thing, they can come out on where and last only minutes.  It could be down pouring where you are and one mile away is nothing.  

    But I don't want to get into a deep discussion. But I would rather be prepared, than not. You could have engine trouble and not get back to the dock on time. Than get caught up in a storm.  A good boater has the right equipment on board or at least try. Thats why the make PFDs, EPIRBs, Flares and more. You don't know what can happen. 

  4. Looking at the pic I dont think you have a GFI outlet. But I was thinking you may have some form of one. My wife comes from France and we visit there every few years. I have never seen one there.

    In the U.S. it is required by law (every state in the U.S. is a little different) to use a GFI outlet in wet locations. This is a safety device that helps stop electacutions from happening. Case on point, if you dropped a hair dryer in the tub and some one was in it. Chances are they would be dead. But with a GFI outlet in the bathroom, chances are they would be alive. In milliseconds it turns the power off. 

    I would look at the wiring, both at the breaker and outlet.

  5. 6 hours ago, drewm3i said:

    There is no such thing as too much chain...when we had our sailboat, we had 150' of chain which is not uncommon at all. Power boats absolutely need a lot of chain as well. Sure you didn't drag while on watch in good conditions, but would you trust it all night at anchor? How about if a storm blows through? Dragging could leave you on the rocks which is just not worth the risk.

    I would have to agree. But I am a salt water boater that has 50' of chain on a 30' foot boat. My normal anchoring depth is between 12 to 30 feet. 

    Remember too, we are talking in general situations. The newbie does not care what works for me. But how the anchoring system, I should say ground tackle works.   


    But this also goes back to local knowledge. In some spots 6' of chain is just fine, others may need 12'.  


    As to SST, no such thing it came out of nowhere.  I have told this story many times. Years ago in Boston Harbor we were anchored. There were reports of thunder storms for that day.  But these storms ether don't show up or very isolated. We were ready to pull anchor and go home. Then we saw a storm go from south to north passing right over Boston 4 miles away from us. We decided to stay since the storm would be in our path. For us it was almost uneventful. It got a little dark and the wind picked up to 10kph. I just got radar and really did not know how to use it. I had a experienced boater on board and he looked at the radar.  He said that the storm just made a U turn and heading for us. I run to the bow and let out my entire rode 50 ft of chain and 200 feet of line. Well, we got hit with 60 mph winds, two boats past us since there anchor was not holding and one ran aground. I dragged about 50 feet in 15 feet of water. 

    My point is, you never know? Looking at the weather or not.  



  6. Fortress makes a great anchor! But if you want the best, go with a Rocna.  https://rocna.com/

    I would ask the local boaters in your area first. They would know what would work best for the bottom your boating in.  

    To recap what other have mentioned. You need 15 to 30ft of chain.  For every 1 of water (depth) you need 5 to 7 feet of line or what is called rode. Chain is key in the whole system.


  7. 3 hours ago, Jacalore said:

    I'm familiar with ground tackle and how it works. I singlehanded a 34' sailboat from the Chesapeake to the FL Keys. Spend the winter there, lived aboard, anchored out. Over spec every section of your system, you'll sleep better at night. 


  8. 8 hours ago, Jacalore said:

    Chain is key, agree. But it's not a shock absorber, rope is. Or a snubber. 

    I went with a Fortress and will cut down the stock to fit Chaparral anchor locker. With 15' of chain, should be fine. River runner and back bays. 

    You need to remember, that your chain will lay flat on the bottom. Now if the wind blows your boat back, the wight of the chain will slow down that movement and the pull on the anchor will be less.  With out it, your boat will be pulled back faster and increase the angle giving your anchor less holding power.  So the pull will be greater and your anchor could pull out.




  9. I went with a Rocna anchor. The holding power is much greater than anything I have ever used. Will not pull out even if the wind does a 180. 

    https://rocna.com/products/original-rocna/  Watch the video, its very good. 


    But chain is key to any anchor. It does a few things, acts like a shock absorber and keeps the shank low so the flukes or plow will not pull out. The more the better holding power your rode will have. 

    In my Sig 290, I am using 50' of chain. But I am not a lake boater, but a salty.  

  10. 11 hours ago, Johnfrmcal said:

    How do you flush it?  I assume you tee’d into the hose coming from the seacock and you hook a hose to the T and shut the seacock?  I have a 5ecd and it has the raw water cooled fuel pump module. It really needs to be flushed because in salt water it can get buildup and clog the line after the water pump. I’ve already had to clear it once. 

    I would create a loop. Raw water in and out. Some boaters use a 5gal bucket and a bilge pump. Then run a barnacle buster for one hour and than reverse the flow for another hour.  

  11. 3 hours ago, brick said:

    “ESD” (Electric Shock Drowning) is a very real and dangerous issue. You should not swim near any dock that has power. 

    Its not the dock so much as it is the boats. The News only said that the two brothers by-passed safety equipment on there boat. 

    Could the Marina be wired wrong, yes. But it is more likely a boat that is. If your anodes are being eaten up quicker than normal! Than you or the boat beside you has a problem. 

  12. 14 hours ago, Carl D said:

    So....As the proud owner of a "older" Chaparral " I have come to realize not all boats are created equal. This is the first time in my boating experience that I have come across a manufacture that did not consider that their boats would be around 10-15 maybe 20 years it seems....Why would a manufacture use a non serviceable component in their vessels? I have a 2005 Signature 310 that if I had a engine part failure I could get a replacement through Volvo, If I had a AC issue or a vacuflush head issue or even the generator unit needed parts I could source them. So why is it they would put multi gauges (with Deutsch pin connectors no less) that are completely non serviceable or even available for replacement? Has anyone been able to find a solution for this please? I have looked for every possible solution and can only find 1 replacement gauge for $1,200.00  The Chaparral model I have uses 5 inch gauges (I have attached a picture), the issue I have is that none of the back lights work so they are not visible at night. Trim gauge is not working but that is probably not the instrument cluster. Any hep would be appreciated. Thank you all.


    Does you engines use the J1939 protocol? If yes, that opens a very wide door! I would look into it.


    My twin engine boat 2011 Sig 290 has a dual tech. They wanted $800 to replace it! For $175 I installed a J1939 to NEMA2k gateway. Noe I can read almost everything from my GPS OR I could install NMEA2k gauges.  

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