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Posts posted by Iggy

  1. 1 hour ago, Dreamboat276 said:

    Iggy, he says he never touched the VSR. He tells me he only added a second house battery by installing the battery and then connecting it in parallel to the existing house batt. That's all he said he did.

    So more than likely then, this goes back to the charger itself and how it might not be able to charge the two house batts that are in parallel, as Cyclops2 mentions above? But why? If they're in parallel, it's as if there's just one battery.

    I don't think its the charger. The ground or Pos wire from the VSR could have been connected to the existing battery. Have you traced the wired back?

  2. Sound like the bass plate is rubbing against the impeller putting a load on it and/or the pump motor is failing. The size is not a big deal as long as it fits. I would just replace the pump and be done with it.   With pump in hand, in 5 minutes you could have a new one installed. 


    Remember too, that is used all the time. With ever shower and when the A/C is running.

  3. 3 hours ago, JohnZ said:

    Agree on the need to replace - at this point a timing issue.  Some unsettling in the personal life due to COVID situation but it will get replaced in the not too distant future.  I will also be wanting to add radar (which will require a chartplotter replacement) as we start to venture out of the Bay to explore down the Atlantic coast as well as up the coast towards New England

    You can add radar right now https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/86236#devices  You don't need a new chartplotter just for that.

  4. 1 hour ago, JohnZ said:

    Great offer - thanks.  Boston a bit of a hike from my area though.  As I read the compatibility section on the Garmin website, they no longer provides updates for it and the g3 map set is not compatible with my unit.  Is there anything I am missing that I can do with a 5212 running v7.8 and map g2 v2012 13.50?   Thanks

    When you said upgraded, I thought you meant replaced.  But they are still doing firmware updates on you model https://www8.garmin.com/support/collection.jsp?product=010-00594-01


    But maps, no. Thats why I would like to go with Furuno. But at the time I was just learning and have a lot invested in Garmin. But the 5212 is now hitting 10 years old. Maybe its time to replace it.............. You are not on a lake and you have some interesting places around you to visit.



  5. 26 minutes ago, JohnZ said:

    Have you thought about using an iPad or similar with one of many various navigation apps for those few times when you want the extra security of a chartplotter?  If you have an iPad, you can get an annual subscription to Navionics for <$25 - Garmin owns Navionics - chart quality is same or better than a Garmin.  Then maybe another $50 for an iPad mounting bracket.  Its a real economic solution.  And that's the way I've gone.  My 330 has an obsolete 500 series GPSMap unit - can't be upgraded.  So I can use the iPad for charts and the chartplotter for all the other features on the 2000 bus like gauges and such.  Food for thought

    Why can't your GPS be upgraded? Bring your boat to my house, I will do it for you. I have changed out the GPS units in my boat several times so it seams odd that it can't be done.


    Remember too, GPS units are IP67 rated so there water proof and sunlight readable. It would be like reading your phone in the sun. 

  6. You are asking a lot from a 7" display. To show 3 or 4 out of the 6 gauges is a lot with displaying GPS and fish-finder info. You are going to need two 7" displays or one 12" display. Even the 9" unit will be small. But thats me..................


    I would also say that you do not need the gateway. You will need to know how to tap into the wiring to pick up Can+ and Can- for the J1939 connection and that would be off the tech if its like my boat. I don't know your boats wiring, but most Chaps do not have the fuel and trim connected to the engines computer. So no read out though the J1939 interface if thats the case.


    As to the NMEA2k network, its not a bad thing to have. My N2k network shares info between my GPS, VHF, AIS, fish-finder and my remotes for my Fusion sound system.   

  7. Yes, I would disconnect one remote at a time to see.  There has to be a way to remove the head unit without prying it out. I would download the manual to see if a key or some sort of release tool is needed. My old Sony head unit, you needed there key which has flat to be inserted on the sides to pull it out. 

  8. I have a 2011 Sig 290. As to the level of water, I have the same problem. But is just the two us us so its very easy to guess. But I have been toying with the idea of something like this



    Every spring I use one of these to clean the tank but I never drink the water from the tank. Just to shower and wash dishes.  https://www.defender.com/category.jsp?name=drinking-water-treatment-chemicals&path=-1|51|2234214&id=2243565




  9. On 5/20/2020 at 9:59 AM, 2004lebanshee said:

    Mine is a Sahara  s500. Not sure on the tripping.

    Mine too. I changes mine out a few years ago, but no ongoing problems. Change it to another brand. 


    I carry an extra one sump and water pump. With my luck, we would be away on a week long trip and and need one.

  10. You should go with this one ProMariner ProSafe Fail Safe Galvanic Isolator - 30 Amp  https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=promariner-prosafe-fail-safe-galvanic-isolator-30-amp&path=-1|328|2290032&id=1353688

    First off it is "fail safe" meaning that if the diodes inside fail you still have a ground connection.  Also the Yandina isolator is not ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council)  AND UL  certified.


  11. 2 hours ago, deadsea said:

    Yes, I should have mentioned that the boat is in a slip (edited my post) and I will be plugging it into the shore power outlet.


    Than you should be adding a galvanic isolator so your drive is not eaten up. You may want to check with your club or marina if you can use a 20 amp cord to plug in. Some docks will not let you use a 30 to 20 amp adapter unless your on board.  Makes since, the breaker is rated at 30 amps for a shore power cord. The biggest normal extension card is 20 amps and if something where to happen the cord could burn up before the breaker pops.  

  12. 4 hours ago, TimBrown said:

    Just to set the record straight, I drove the boat to the gas dock. It started fine there, so I decided to run it for awhile just outside the mouth of the inlet to the marina to allow the batteries some time to charge. I had my phone and radio with me and was never in any danger. I also had my booster box which I always take on the first voyage or two every year. 

    After getting a bit more of a charge in the batteries, I didn't have any more problems. I assume the issue was not enough juice to the Smartcraft system prevented the boat from starting, even though it was turning over. 

    Just curious if anyone else had experienced this. 

    Thanks for your concern about my safety. 

    Cyclops is right, I would buy a load tester and test the batteries. Years ago a bad battery blow out my charger from seating all winter. So now I load test them every spring. Its not a bad thing to do.  

  13.  On your comment :  "This is also the case when I am disconnected from shore power, generator is off, and the switch (Shore-Off-Gen) is set to Off and I am running the engine. With AC Main set to on, the AC Volts meter registers 0 and I have no power to the associated outlets, appliances, etc."  


    Again, this is normal. The engine/s will only put out 12v D.C. Not 120v A.C. So your lights, water pump, GPS and alike should be able to be turned on. No Microwave or anything that needs 120 volts. I think you popped a breaker, have you checked the genset itself. You may want to download the manual on it. 

  14. I am supersized that you even went out knowing you had a problem. I would first go over all your battery connections and make sure that both are holding a charge.

    Its not uncommon that a wire to the batteries was not connected from last fall. Just another thing to check for.

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