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Posts posted by Iggy

  1. No, the digital display is correct. As I mentioned, my starboard tech reads 2500 all the time. Also Andrew conformed that his gauge is fogging up too. What is happening, is that moisture has is now in the gauge affect the mechanical movement of the needle.    

  2. 22 minutes ago, Bt Doctur said:

    I would hope he would know that. But Andrew also said "or running the boat".  So good point!


    You will not have 120v A.C  power with the engine running. Only 12v D.C. power just like most cars. To have 120v A.C. you must be on Shore power or have your genset running.  

  3. 22 minutes ago, rjbergen said:

    I’ll take a look. Today is investigation day. I would hope my batteries aren’t mis-wired since they were fine last year. If they are, that means the winterization crew screwed with them. First step is testing the isolators with a multimeter.

    I’ll have to run through the scenarios again today to see when the lights start. From the manual, it seems that flashing red means either shore power off, or there is current running on the AC ground. We have been finishing up exterior jobs with the good weather and haven’t been too concerned since we’re not in the water...no corrosion or ESD risks on land.

    I did wonder if being connected to a building makes a difference. Buildings have AC neutral and ground connected. Do marine shore power pedestals get wired that way?

    I have used GFI 20 amp outlets at my boat yard with out a problem. I would think the pedestals are wired the same. 

  4. 1 hour ago, dan02gt said:

    Can you move the bow roller back on the trailer a few inches?  If so give that a try. 

    I would not move the strap over the roller. If you do that the strap and latch will end of pinched between the bow and roller. 

    Do you mean loosen the whole assembly and move it down the post. If the winch was lower that might work BUT we are not seeing how the boat is seating in the trailer in relation to the winch and roller. Was that trailer fitted to the boat? Or did that trailer used for another type of boat.  

  5. First, jump across that light wires that go to the control switches. Too easy to do and if it works that just narrowed it down. If not, than you could have lost ether the pos or the neg wire, maybe both need to be replaced. There only 22 years old..................  With that age, I would replace them anyways. They could be corroding and you don't want to burn out the windless. After that, its the conractor.   You could peel the insulation back and look. If its not tinned wire its not marine rated. 

  6. Sounds like you have a bad cable. You have power on both sides of the breaker. So one side of that breaker goes to the solenoid (contractor) and your saying no power at the solenoid. Now that cable could be your Neg cable at the the contractor. You not saying how you brought power up to it or what you used for ground at the breaker.  At this point, it could be ether cable.


    I would first a temporary ground cable. If that did not work than a temp Pos cable.     

  7. 45 minutes ago, Mustang said:

    I don’t know how I missed your comment earlier, but I’ll try switchIng to both when the engine is running.  They’re definitely only charging when the battery is selected on the switch.

    The 11.6-11.7 readings came from the helm gauge.  I turn everything off and it’ll go up to about 11.9.

    I don’t actually hear anything coming from the compartment when the hatch is shut.  I did hear some sound coming from there when I would switch from one battery to the other.  Always the same battery being used when I heard that sound.  Maybe that’s the injector?  

    ive got a lot to learn :)


    thanks again for everyone’s input!

    When I turn my key to on, I can hear the fuel pump turning on for a few seconds. I always 2 to 3 seconds and turn the key to start and it fires right up.

  8. Drop you anchor and call Sea Tow. 


    A trolling motor is going to get so far without the proper battery bank. But this is where good maintenance, a good battery setup, tools and spare parts come into play.  

  9. On 5/13/2020 at 5:22 PM, Mooresville said:

    I plugged the Yacht Devices gateway in at the engine.  It plugs directly into the engines diagnostic port.  No adapter is required.  It then runs to the console where it plugs into the mnea2000 network.  I never tie anything into my gauges or leave hidden gauges like someone else mentioned. Engine to network, then plotter to network. As far as the transducer, just buy one that its compatible with your chartplotter and plug it directly into the chartplotter, no need to connect to the network. 

    On some installs, you may have to plug directly into the engine/s. But electronics of any type do not like heat.   

  10. 4 hours ago, Mustang said:

    Sorry I wasn’t more clear with the reply.  It’s a lot to read through lol.

    They aren’t deep cycle or starting batteries, just all-around marine batteries.

    I’m still trying to figure out which battery is which :)

    Pull the red cable off of one of the batteries. That will tell you which battery is which. Than you might what to draw out the wiring of the batteries to the switch and include anything else that might be connected.


    What it sounds like the last owner added a standard dual battery switch and setup. Which is good in it  self, but the tracing the wires would tell us more. Than he added the music system with the 2 amps and head unit. That alone is going to pull a lot of power. So now the math comes into play. You need to look at the specs of your system to see how many amps it will be pulling. Than what are the AH (amp hours) of your batteries. So you must know what you have. How long to you what the system to play when not on shore power?

    To keep numbers simple. If your system pulls 50 amps and one battery is powering the system. The other battery for starting and that battery is rated at 100 amp hours. This meant that you can only run your system for 30 to 40 minutes.  You may want to add a 3rd battery, so two are in parallel powering the system.  As to charging, we can get into that later

    Keep in mind that flooded batteries should not but brought down below 50% and AGMs below 40%.  Which give you the 30 to 40 minutes depending on types.

  11. 15 hours ago, rjbergen said:

    This response is based on the assumption that you have 2 independent batteries and they are not connected via a Blue Seas Add-a-Battery kit or anything like that.

    You can start the engine using either battery. Once running, switch to both to ensure both batteries receive a charge. When you anchor at the sand bar, switch back to a single battery to preserve one battery to start the engine for the trip home. When you're ready to leave, switch to the reserve battery to start, and then to both while running the engine.

    Are the 11.6-11.7 V readings taken using a multimeter? Are those readings while the blower is running? Essentially we need to know what the battery voltage is (using a multimeter, not the dash gauge) after it has been sitting idle with no current draw and no charger for at least 30 minutes. It should be around 12.6 V at that point to be considered fully charged and healthy.

    Your dash gauge should display whichever battery is on on the switch. When you say it doesn't display a second battery, do you mean the gauge doesn't show anything when you switch to #2?

    3-5 seconds cranking the engine is on the longer end of normal. Might be time for a tune up or fresh batteries, or both.

    Yep to the above!


    As to cranking, if your engine is fuel injected? I am sure it is, but first turn the key to the on position. You might hear the fuel pump for 1 or 2 seconds and wait those 2 second. Now start your engine, it might start up quicker for you. 


    As to load testing, I would buy one of these https://www.amazon.com/s?k=battery+load+tester&ref=nb_sb_noss_1  You don't want the ones with the analog sweep meter. Those are more like a toaster. The digital ones put a small load on the battery and than do the math. They range from $25 to $150, I bought a $40 one and it works great! Beats disconnecting your batteries, carrying them and all that.


  12. Thats it!! Its very broad as you can see.  


    Now if you read that link that Rambo used, it is very informative. As to the inland rules and international rules. More specific, crossing, Safe speed, overtaking, give-way and stand on vessels.  The best rule I think is the Avoid Collision. You may think you are the stand on vessel, but in some case you are not. Good reading on this topic.   

  13. I got my U.S.C.G. Captain Lic. months ago. I tried to look it up a passage and could not find it. But it went something like this. No other lights can be on that would obstruct or handier navigation lights. 

    In other words and this is very broad for many reasons. You can not use green or red over head lights on your radar arch running at night. So that lighting that would confuse another boat at night as to the orientation of your boat. AND  If the red and green nav lights are more center of the bow and the docking lights are bright enough so the nav lights hard to see or can not be made out. That too would be illegal.   Maybe poor examples, but true. As far is the course I took, there was no mention of docking lights. But the law in its own way covers everything. 

    If the docking lights of other boaters are a real problem, I would hail your Harbor Master. He can explain things to them.

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