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Raleighfirewall

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  1. dn0349: I contacted http://www.nboats.com. Got a good quote from them through Safeco Ins. Co. I will talk with them on Monday and finalize the deal and bind the policy. Phillbo: I'm not insuring the trailer because I keep the boat in a covered lift year round. The trailer is on my property. I have had an empty boat trailer or two for 30+ years and neither I, nor my neighbors, have ever had any problems other than dry rotting tires. We're lucky we live in a safe neighborhood. RichMarionOhio: What a great looking restoration on your Chaparral. I do love the "agreed value" insurance agreement. I feel like we have half the battle won before we have a claim. I've been on the NC side of Lake Gaston for 31 years now and only had one claim about 30 years ago due to my brother finding an underwater stationary object that took out the lower unit. I hope and pray that the insurance is just in case for an event that never happens. Thanks for the advice everyone. Safe boating!!!
  2. Last year, September 2013, I bought a 1997 Chaparral 1930 SS. Because it was so late in the season I did not insure it upon purchase. I leave it in a boat lift all year. Now that the season is finally here, I am in the market for insurance for the boat only, not the trailer. I went online and got a quote from BoatU.S. I have no problem with the price for the "agreed hull value." However, I am not familiar with the company that would write the insurance, National Liability & Fire Insurance Co. Has anyone had any experience with this company? I got a quote from my homeowner policy carrier that was about 33% higher as a rider on my homeowner insurance. I like my homeowner insurance company, Liberty Mutual, but they only write boats as a rider, not a stand alone policy. Just wondering about National Liability & Fire Insurance Co. and any other recommendations you may have. As always, thanks for your opinions and experience.
  3. I am assuming by your posts that the dry storage at Badin or Tillery would be on the trailer, under cover. Is that correct? Three grand for the trailer doesn't sound bad for a dual axle, especially if it is an aluminum trailer. Your Chaparral dealer should be able to set the trailer up for your particular boat without the boat being there. It may not be perfect but it would be good enough for a three hour trip. You could then drop it back off with the dealer for final adjustments before taking it to Badin or Tillery. If your boat is paid for, your only expense would be storage, winterization, maintenance and fuel. Sounds like that may be a good route to go. If you decide to sell at a later date you would need a trailer then. I think you'll love Badin or Tillery. Congratulations on the quick sale of your place at Smith Mountain Lake. You'll be glad you kept your options open for the remainder of this season. Who knows, it may end up being the perfect set-up for the future.
  4. I, too am interested in a remote oil filter to improve on ease of access for changing. My research indicates that the aftermarket, i.e. automotive type, remote filters are not USCG approved for marine use. After looking very closely at most all that are available, It looks to me like the automotive types have the male hose fittings attached directly to the hose. I don't see how you can screw the threads into the two adaptors with the male ends fastened directly to the hose end with a crimped type fitting to the hose. The Mercruiser has bent metal fittings on each end with compression type fittings like the female end of a water hose. The automotive type appears to be fixed like the male end of a water hose. That's judging by the pictures on the web.
  5. Thanks Denny and Cheap Sunglasses. I will check with both of those sources next week. Brick, I thought about trying to find a match to dye the two parts, as a last resort. It's really not a huge deal. It's just a couple of shades lighter than the dash and really clashes. I'm sure it bothers me a lot more than anyone else. Thanks for the help.
  6. The glove box and dash cooler doors on my '97 1930 SS are a slightly different color than the dash. I would like to know if there is anyone who specializes in parts like this for older boats.
  7. Raleighfirewall

    oil

    Outflying, thanks for the very helpful information. That's why I love this forum.
  8. I am assuming that your drain plug is attached to your bilge drain plug in your transom. I have not seen one except in videos and pictures. What I have seen is the drain hose extends out the transom when you remove your brass plug. If you are afraid that this rubber hose is brittle and prefer not to extend it through the drain you should be able to leave it as is and use a pump to remove the oil through the dipstick. You can keep check on whether the hose is leaking by keeping a close eye on your bilge for any accumulation of oil.
  9. I now own a Mercruiser for the first time. I have always winterized my 1983 OMC Stringer myself. I told my mechanic I wanted him to winterize my new to me Mercruiser. He assured me I could do it myself. He instructed me to hook-up the muffs on the outdrive and warm up to operating temperature. Then turn off the water and add RV antifreeze thru the muffs until antifreeze flows liberally from the outdrive. 4 gallons of antifreeze for a 5.7 Mercuiser. THEN drain the engine block and manifolds, making sure to probe all drains with a small screwdriver or short piece of clothes hanger to ensure that nothing foreign, rust particle, etc, blocks the drains. Replace the drain plugs and you're ready for the Spring. I have purchased the Camco winterizing system for adding the antifreeze. It is a five gallon tank with the valve and hose attached for the water hose and antifreeze hose. Very cost effective way to do it. I'll probably disconnect a few water hoses just to be safe, just out of habit.
  10. Were it me, I would glue the two pieces of plywood together with Gorilla Urethane glue. Wet one side, apply glue to the other and clamp or screw together. After this cures, scrape away all the foam from the edges and continue with your repair. As far as what and how to do the attaching to the floor, go to Youtube.com, type in Frisco Jarretts and watch his rebuilding of his stringers and floors in two boats. Very informative. You'll be glad you did.
  11. Not the same switch. Will take pics this weekend.
  12. Bob, looks like a toggle switch. Up is on and down is off. On my Yamaha outboard, pontoon boat, it is spring loaded and the lanyard must be attached.
  13. Bob, yes it is an electric fuel pump. 96 or 97 was the year they changed over to electric pumps. I did not change it. Ric, you should know that your electric fuel pump will not operate until you build 4-6 psi oil pressure while cranking the engine.
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