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Mhans

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Everything posted by Mhans

  1. Have a 2011 Sunesta 264 w/Mercruiser 8.2.. Was running perfectly all year. Took it downriver for lunch. No problems at slow or fast speeds.. Docked at slip for a couple of hours. Came out to leave. Turned key on and 2 long alarm beeps. then they stopped. Nothing displayed on dash. Started without a problem..first crank. Took off back home...9 miles upriver. Worked flawlessly...slow through N0-Wake zones and 3/4 throttle back to dock. Pulled into dock without incident. No overheating...No "limp mode"...nothing seemed out of the ordinary. Tied up for 1 hour. Went to start the boat and started to crank and immediately "clunked" to a stop. Every attempt to turn it over would either briefly make a normal cranking noise, but quiclky freeze to a complete stop. Batteries are new....12.5-13v output. No change with Battery selector on 1-2-or both. All accessories work fine. When key turned on, sea water temp only 120-130 degrees. All fluid reservoirs/oil levels perfect. Engine still seems "seized"....after the perfect run back from lunch. No alarms. I have lived through a hydrolock before when an impeller was cooked along with exhaust flaps. That followed a clear overheat situation. This time...no warning...boat was running fine...and problem occured on attempted start up after sitting for an hour. Any ideas? First plan to pull plugs and try to manually crank engine... Thanks
  2. Anybody have a diagram/pic of the 2 battery setup connections for a 2011 Sunesta 264. (8.2 Merc engine).. Seems there is some confusion on what is battery # 1 and #2 and what connections go where... Thanks...trying to get this beast in the water Mike
  3. Main breaker wasn't tripped...I'm assuming you mean the "Main breaker button" near the electrical connections on the left side top if the engine. Mike
  4. 2011 Mercruiser 8.2, 380 HP with Bravo III
  5. .distracted and preoccupied..last evening, I placed both batteries in my 2011 Sunesta 264 and attached the cables trying to beat the setting sun....All was well until I turned the battery switch on and a brief spark across the VSR module was seen. And no power.... After I briefly panicked, I looked into the battery compartment and my horrified worries were confirmed. I had dropped the batteries in "backwards" to the way I had taken them out and attached the yellow ground cables to the (+) electrodes and the red positive cables to the (-) posts on the batteries. Removing the cables and reattaching them correctly now only gives power to most of my accessories/lights/horn/blower,etc. BUT I have NO power to the dash guages/trim/tabs and NOTHING happens when I try to crank the engine. I have looked at all the fuses (that I can find) and they are fine. Circuit breaker not tripped. No breakers tripped on panel behind dash. So... Alternator??...starter???..blown diodes somewhere else? ..VSR module? Thanks
  6. .distracted and preoccupied..last evening, I placed both batteries in my 2011 Sunesta 264 and attached the cables trying to beat the setting sun....All was well until I turned the battery switch on and a brief spark across the VSR module was seen. And no power.... After I briefly panicked, I looked into the battery compartment and my horrified worries were confirmed. I had dropped the batteries in "backwards" to the way I had taken them out and attached the yellow ground cables to the (+) electrodes and the red positive cables to the (-) posts on the batteries. Removing the cables and reattaching them correctly now only gives power to most of my accessories/lights/horn/blower,etc. BUT I have NO power to the dash guages/trim/tabs and NOTHING happens when I try to crank the engine. I have looked at all the fuses (that I can find) and they are fine. Circuit breaker not tripped. No breakers tripped on panel behind dash. So... Alternator??...starter???..blown diodes somewhere else? ..VSR module? Thanks
  7. I have the Fusion BT100 on my CHaparral 264 with the Clarion head unit. It has worked flawlessly, BUT..occasionally a device will not be able to connect, even though the Fusion network is seen under the "Bluetooth" settings. The only solution is to Delete the Fusion Bluetooth acct and then power down the device (my phone, etc.) and the repower up and let it discover the Fusion again. I then can connect without difficulty. Doesn't happen frequently. My Blutooth "antenna brick" is inside the cabinet under the stereo and can pick up devices all over the boat...rare to no cutouts. Mike
  8. That should be MERCATHODE troubleshooting ...darned spellchecker!
  9. I have a 2011 Sunesta 264 with 8.2 Mercruiser with Bravo III drive..I have been plagued with stern drive corrosion for two years. Keep it in the Allegheny River in a slip at the yacht club. Change anodes every year (fresh water-magnesium). Have repainted the out drive last year before season....still corroded by the end of the season. Sanded and painted lower unit again this year before season...primed and painted with Mercruiser products....pulled it out last week and again, significant corrosion and pitting on the lower unit. Is there any way to check the Mercathode system? Mercruiser suggests maybe a SECOND Mercathode system is needed. I don't know how to check the water around my slip for electrical potential. Thanks
  10. Just to add my .02 and headache history.. Just after purchasing my 2011 Sunesta 264 with the 8.2 Merc, I had it in my driveway with the muffs streaming water in the out drive. Started it up and shortly thereafter heard alarms that I thought were due to the depth alarm going off since I was in my driveway (old boat used to do this).. Well, ended up cooking the impeller..repair shop at my marina stated they HAD to pull the engine to change impellers,,$800 bucks..put boat back in water, to the lake..rough water day with waves lapping at the stern..engine freezes on start up..locked up. Burnt up starter/solenoid trying to turn frozen engine over. Pulled boat.. Mechanic found shredded/burned rubber exhaust flap pieces in exhaust.. which allowed the reflux of water back into cylinders/oil. Starter replaced, exhaust flaps replaced...so...about $2000 bucks later, boat runs great.
  11. I have to admit, the Igloo marine cooler on my Sunesta 264 is pretty much worthless. I do a lot of outdoor stuff and it pales in comparison to a good Coleman and many others. I'm not talking about a 300-400 Yetl....I was amazed how poorly the Igloo performs...ice and drinks maybe last a day and a half...and that's in the shaded environment under the sink...if you want it just for a day...then I guess it's acceptable...but, a handle already broke as did the latch...both of which I replaced but not that cheap. Anyway, consider another brand until Igloo makes better insulation. Just my 0.02 Mike
  12. 2011 Sunesta 264 I am having trouble filling my fresh water tank. Filling thru the cap Using a standard water hose...I get a "vapor lock" after about half-a- gallon as it fills up the neck...it slowly goes down, but I can't run the hose continuously without it locking up...slowly will fill my tank...it behaves like the vent isn't open..bubbles up after a few seconds like an air-lock..and I can't find the vent? Diagrams from Chap don't include the vent. Is there a side tube or vent that comes off of the filler neck? Very frustrating. Can't see anything obstructing the tube. Thanks, Mike
  13. Mhans

    Tow Vehicle??

    Looking for advice. I have a Sunesta 264 that I need to trail around to different lakes this summer. I only have a Chevy Tahoe that is just too small to handle the weight. Looking at pickups, specifically, "duallys" and thinking diesel, but this is way out of my area of expertise. I am confused by how big, what kind, etc. I am probably looking for a reliable used vehicle to tow the boat...will be my non-work car. Any advice?...the boat weighs around 7800# "dry" and the trailer 1800#. Thanks Mike
  14. Mhans

    Battery wiring

    I know people have asked this type of question before...sorry for repetition and my ignorance. The mechanic pulled my 2 batteries from my 2011 Sunesta 264 at the end of last season . I am reinstalling them now. I do not have a wiring diagram and the are several cables to be attached...large yellow (ground?) and red (+) and then smaller black and then thenDTS harness with black and red. Does anybody have a description/pic or instruction? How do I tell which battery is number1 and number2? Thanks....just don't want to x-wire. Thanks again Mike
  15. I had to replace the ski arch in my 2011 Sunesta 264 last year..new arch came with multi-color LED lights, not present on the original. Since not part of the original, had to buy new switch and wiring harness that Chaparral charged me for!!!!....even worse, wiring the switch as instructed didn't work.....marine electronics guy also had difficult time getting it wired.....thought the original LED 's were faulty and only one of the replacements seem to work....Bottom line:Chaparral doesn't want to send replacement for the remaining non-working 3-color LED unless I pay full price...around bucks for a simple 3 color LED...and they won't reveal supplier....does anybody know who the supplier is or how to replace the multicolor LED (red-white-blue) for my 2011 Sunesta 264.... Thanks, Mike
  16. When I was winterizing by 2011 Sunesta 264 I stupidly put a couple of slices and scuffs in the front panel of my rear-facing seat over the swim-deck. Does anybody know the best source for matching vinyl? I'm looking for the "sand-light tan" color. Thanks, Mike
  17. I was cleaning and winterizing my Sunesta 264 and just above the sanitary holding tank near the engine were 2 different wires...one coming from a harness with a blade connector, the other a shielded green cable with an eye-hole connector that has obviously been screwed to something in the past. It has a label p.exh.th....See pics...any idea what these connect to??
  18. I have to replace the batteries in my Sunesta 264.. Having some battery drainage problems that have occurred since some new arch lights installed. My research suggests a "Cranking" battery for starting and a "Deep Cycle" for accessories ( I don't run a trolling motor but I have LEDs, stereo, etc.) The current two batteries are both Interstate Cranking batteries, not Deep Cycle. Should I get one "Cranking" battery as my primary for starting, and a "Deep Cycle" for battery #2 for my accessories?...or stick with the same for both. Secondly, there now seems to be a slow current drain since the marine electronics guy installed the arch light....how do you troubleshoot or measure the amount of drain? (? Ammeter on battery??) He won't answer my call:-) Thanks, Mike
  19. Mhans

    Built in Air Pump

    I find the installed pump on my Sunesta to be underpowered and not worth the money. I am looking for a combo vac/pump unit to replace it. I find I am still "mouth-blowing" my tubes til they get enough air in them after I have used the on-board pump. It's just not strong enough to get enough air in the tubes..
  20. I had the exact problem with suntan lotion. Happened on my prior boat, a Celebrity with white vinyl. I used a bleach-based vinyl cleaner and it took it out. Need to let it set for a little while before you wipe it off. It's obviously some chemical reaction between the seat and a chemical in the suntan lotion.
  21. I had the exact problem with suntan lotion. Happened on my prior boat, a Celebrity with white vinyl. I used a bleach-based vinyl cleaner and it took it out. Need to let it set for a little while before you wipe it off. It's obviously some chemical reaction between the seat and a chemical in the suntan lotion.
  22. Looking fr help...had to replace my ski arch on my 2011 Sunesta 264 last winter. New arch has multicolored LEDs, old arch had no lights. Had to purchase a !!! harness and switch thru Chaparral to connect to ACC switch wires on dash. Didn't work. Power to switch wires all intact. Local Chaparral dealer doesn't do electrical work, but sent replacement lights for the arch...still don't work when harness hooked up. Local marine electronics guy tried to troubleshoot, no success, needs wiring schematic/diagram for arch lights. Chaparral NOT helpful in troubleshooting or providing any schematic diagram. Anybody know where I can get a wiring schematic for the arch, or have any knowledge how to further troubleshoot/wire the lights? Thanks, Mike Hansen (Mhans)
  23. Looking fr help...had to replace my ski arch on my 2011 Sunesta 264 last winter. New arch has multicolored LEDs, old arch had no lights. Had to purchase a !!! harness and switch thru Chaparral to connect to ACC switch wires on dash. Didn't work. Power to switch wires all intact. Local Chaparral dealer doesn't do electrical work, but sent replacement lights for the arch...still don't work when harness hooked up. Local marine electronics guy tried to troubleshoot, no success, needs wiring schematic/diagram for arch lights. Chaparral NOT helpful in troubleshooting or providing any schematic diagram. Anybody know where I can get a wiring schematic for the arch, or have any knowledge how to further troubleshoot/wire the lights? Thanks, Mike Hansen (Mhans)
  24. Mhans

    Money for a tow?

    I would never take the money. Boaters take care of their own.. I was stranded a few years ago at Deep Creek Lake in Maryland with a dead battery and a boat full of family. Stranger came by and towed us for about 4 miles to the marine service dock. Took over an hour. Wouldn't take a dime....Last year my brother and I were at Lake Tahoe....came upon a party of 5 in a broken down bowrider in Emerald Bay...we towed them for two hours to a South Shore marina...caught #$^% by our wives when we arrived late for dinner, but we'd do it all again in a minute....Who knows how long he would have been stuck in the lake...dead in the water....This is what boating and boaters is/are about...like the guy said..."Pay it forward".....someday you'll likely need the same help.
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