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About Wingnut

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  • Birthday 08/01/1953

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    Eastern Shore Maryland

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  1. Wingnut

    Educate me on trailer winches

    I'd go with cable, and a snatch block so you have a double pull. The up side is it double the capacity of your winch as cable, hooks, and winch head have their induced forces cut in half. You physical effort is also halved. but the downside is it doubles the time as the travel speed is also cut in half. On my power winch, on our ramp at low tide, the winch effort is high during the last 1/3 of retrieval. It slows the winch as load increases if I pull single line. Go through the snatch block and the winch stays at rated speed, so loading time is about the same and winch is much happier. Even if you loading travel time doubles, you are much safer as strain on the moving parts is 50% of what it was. The other feature I like is you end up with two trailer anchor points for the cable end. One even or slightly higher than the hull eye, and one below the center-line of pull. As these points oppose each other when the boat is fully nested, you end up with a much more secure bow while trailering. Block available a Amazon for less than 20 bucks. If you go to cable, Eastern Marine has a nice selection and they also have replacement straps and the 2" heavy duty one is rated at 8,500# but it will likely fill your spool up to quickly and leave you with a shortie... W https://www.easternmarine.com/trailer-winch-cables-straps Keeper KTA15120 Pulley Block - 8,000 lbs. Load Capacity
  2. Wingnut

    How would you address this leak?

    As the leak occurs at rest, and you have ruled out rain water infiltration from above, I too think it's time to pull the boat, and alter careful hull external inspection, I would fill the bilge with water up to a point where it is not touching any of the mechanicals. If the leak is in her bottom, up to the 1' level +/-, you will find it in a hurry. The bilge has already been wetted up to that level anyway so no down side to the test. W
  3. Wingnut


    The process actually leaves the props with a matte finish as the go fast guys discovered that breaking surface tension had advantages over and above the mirror finish polish that looks so nice. Find a shop with a Hale computer based measurement system and have the props brought into spec. It surprises me how far off a factory prop can be out of the box. I had a little cup added to mine as the 496 is a torque monster and with the high weight of the reciprocating mass, keeping the WOT RPM's at the low end of the range is desirable for both longevity and economy. My guy at Rock Hall Propeller zero's the prop into a reference point which is around 1/8th of the wide factory tolerance, then finishes with a finite balance. Butter smooth. W
  4. Wingnut

    Towing one boat with another

    We all have dock stories. Pulled up to the dock at the Jetty Restaurant in Kent Narrows. The dock-master is a friend, and he points me into a space that will be tight, but I've been in there many times before and I know she will fit. I make my move against wind and current so this should be easy, and the owner of the new Boston Wailer 30 sprints to his bow. I say "don't you trust me"? He just says NO... He then says "nice job" as things went perfect, and I smile and say "ain't over yet". Bumpers out, 3 lines affixed, and a jet ski decides there is room between my stern and the other boat's bow. Yea, it will fit, but it will eventually hit. Owner starts his rant " you are not putting that in there, no way, I won't stand for it. All at the top of his lungs. Jet ski has figured that out already and is just dropping off his passenger. The rant continues at the top of his lungs. Dock-master looks at me and says "somebody needs a punch in the face". OK, a bit harsh but likely accurate. He says "the jet ski is not staying there but you need to calm down". He says this is a quarter of a million dollar boat and that guy is not staying there. We look at each other and the Dock-master says "you got hosed". Hey, somebody had to say it. W
  5. Wingnut

    Towing with Range Rover Sport

    Look for a truck stop in your area with a sign that says Cat Scale. W
  6. Wingnut

    First Boat, First Car

    I built a 63 Chevy Impala when I was still a high school Junior. Never saw the street because as soon as I turned 17, it was off the Atco Raceway. 12.20's with a best of 12.10. 355 with 292 turbo casting off-road heads from GM, and a single 850 double pumper and Doug Nash pro shifted 4 speed. Took the engine out of that and stuck it in a 66 Chevy II, and went 11.0 with the same set-up. Duce got SRD suspension, a Nash 5 speed, 14" tires, tunnel-ram with twin 660 center squirters, and a de-stroked 302 (292 cu in) and went to the Gator Nationals the following spring. 10.10 at 130 in a 3,400# E/MP car. I miss the days when you worked on a piston dome in your lap for hours on end, then started on the next one. Now it's all CNC out of the box horsepower that the guy with the biggest check book can buy. One of the best days of my life is when we trailered Don Bowles at the Spring Nationals in Columbus and his A/SM Ford Fairmount. His crew chief at the time was Jack Roush. Sometimes money can't buy happiness... W
  7. Wingnut

    Port engine stall/drive seize

    Because the drive locked up, have them check engine alignment too as it only takes a few extra minutes while the drive is off. A drive seizure has the same negative influence as hitting a submerged object. Sounds like your cone clutches and upper gear set learned that lesson. W
  8. Wingnut

    Port engine stall/drive seize

    The upper gear case is likely fine. I would have him replace the lower half and get back to boating. The lower lists for $4,500, and be sure to specify the correct ratio as all the gear reduction in a Bravo is done in the lower gear case. Save the old one too as gears and shaft are likely serviceable. W
  9. Wingnut

    reverse only (even with throttle in Forward)

    BT is right that the lower shaft needs to be elevated and it does appear the thrust washer and stainless cotter pin that holds it up there is missing. That said, I do not believe that is causing your particular problem but that too needs to be resolved. Shaft however does not seem to be bent. Time to disconnect the shift cable atop the engine and have a helper turn the prop while you push and pull the cable in and out, while holding on to the casing. If she does not shift forward/reverse clean, get the drive off so you can further diagnosis the problem. W
  10. Wingnut

    reverse only (even with throttle in Forward)

    Yes, the foot and shoe should be fully engaged. Look to see if the shaft that exits the top of the lower gear case is bent where it exits the case. If it's not, it is shaping up that you have failed the rear shift cable. Pretty common failure and not that hard to change once the drive has been removed, however they can be a pain to get adjusted right. If you don't have a manual for your drive, let us know. W
  11. Wingnut

    Prop Movement

    There is a product call Mary Kate On & Off that does an amazing job on severely stained hulls, after the heavy stuff has been pressure washed off. W
  12. Wingnut

    Yamaha tilt pin stuck

    Yep, thought you had one on the old Yamaha outdrives.
  13. Wingnut

    Prop Movement

    Your drive train sounds perfectly healthy. Either the hull has drank up some moisture as it was slipped without a barrier coat being applied, or you have enough growth that it is creating substantial parasitic drag. Unless the boat seems to set lower in the water than it did before, I'm choosing door #2. Get it clean, sanded, barrier coat and hard epoxy anti-fouling paint applied and enjoy "next" summer. W
  14. Wingnut

    Yamaha tilt pin stuck

    The forward pin remains in the housing, as you slide off the trim cylinders for clearance. The rear pin should slide out, but does not really need to. W
  15. Wingnut


    His boat has been fixed and is running great