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About Wingnut

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  • Birthday 08/01/1953

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    Eastern Shore Maryland

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  1. +1 on everything Shepherd has said, and I'll add that you should never expect an Alpha to shift smoothly. They call the engagement mechanism a "dog clutch" but in reality there is no actual clutch involved. The shift ring has coarse teeth (dogs) that are intended to be rotating at shaft speed, then slammed into a matching set of dogs that are stationary. No give or momentary slippage are built into this design. The key is for the operator to make a quick, and deliberate move from neutral to either forward or reverse. Slow shifting will result in grinding, and substantially shortened dog life. The dogs can also be hard to disengage to the point where Merc uses a switch interrupter switch which momentarily shuts the engine off during shifting. Not a user friendly design in any sense, but when properly adjusted and maintained they tend to live a long productive life. W
  2. Outdrive replacement, either lower gear case or complete drive is a really straigt forward, bolt on replacement. Many replacement options available online and if it were me, buy one and allow us to walk you through installation. W
  3. So true. Also, you can pick up some sand or worst case a trash bag and trash a brand new impeller in seconds. I added a simple pressure gauge at the power steering cooler water circuit just next to the OEM pressure sender so I can monitor impeller health at a glance. pump_zpspy2lem7r.jpg.html
  4. The hour meters are simple Hobbs digital timers that accumulate hours when power is applied (key on) and stop when power is lost. They do no communicate with engine data or the ECM's. They also do not care if the engine is running or not, and my question is why would you have the key on, without the engine running? If you are interested in how many actual hours are on your engine, a dealer can utilize a scan tool to access the ECM histogram which will indicate total run hours, and depending on sophistication of the ECM you may also be able to see what percentage of the total time the engines were run at WOT, and past alarm conditions. W
  5. More than likely your trim limit sender has failed which is located on the port side of the out drive pivot point. Use the transom switch to raise the drive, then see if the throttle mounted switch will lower it. W
  6. The newer style Vortec GM 5.0 blocks have a cast aluminum timing case cover which is easily removed without disturbing the oil pan. The early small blocks had a lip that mated to the front of the oil pan, but the later engines use a captured gasket on the lower sealing surface that is part of the oil pan gasket assembly. If you carefully remove the cam cover, the gasket will stay with the pan and can be reused. A small coat of silicone on the cam cover will allow for leak free re-installation, just take your time. Use a pair of dowel pins in two of the bolt holes (one on each side) and pry down gently until the cover aligns with the alignment pins and the cover will slip right on You will need a harmonic balancer puller, and be sure to replace both the case cover crankshaft seal and gasket. Water pump will need to be removed also and depending on how many hours on the engine, take a good look at the timing chain while you are in there. Give the silicone 24 hours before running the engine is a good practice too. W
  7. Mobile is in Alabama, I worked for Mobil Oil. Ha... Any hoo, 10w-40 Automotive oils are not formulated to run at sustained high RPM and marine combustion chamber temperatures are significantly higher than their automotive counterparts so you need the increased viscosity. The 10w-40 would have issues with foaming in your application. The 15w-50 is the way to go and if you have been using conventional oils to date, you will see both a slight improvement in fuel economy and wot performance. W
  8. Mobil One 15w-50 is my choice since the late 80's. Available in 5 quart containers at WalMart for under 30 bucks.
  9. Unless they figure the pump faulted and fried an ECM output. Good news is it would appear they are close to finding the issue.
  10. So true. If it were me I'd be swapping the ECM's port to starboard and see if the problem follows the brain. It's good to have twins just for that reason. W
  11. The Evinrude E-Tec is a direct injected 2 cycle platform. Never heard of a V-Tech
  12. I bought a 256 new, and was ready to trade it until I added trim tabs. I too do not need to deploy them all that often, however just adding them to that hull changes the ride characteristics significantly to the point where I do know why Chap ever offered that ride without them. Be glad you have the tabs. W
  13. The oil pressure sender will be just behind the port side of the intake manifold, and screws into the oil gallery in the block. There are a few models that mount just above the oil filter but I think you will find yours atop the engine. As far as the steering, it's hard to diagnose without doing some pressure testing. As you have not mentioned noise, or pulsation, I would guess that the pump is OK, and that your issue is within the cylinder/diverter valve assm. Your voltages seem perfect and it would seem your alternator is doing it's job. W
  14. Your low oil pressure fault could be a failing sensor or as you said, an oil of too low viscosity. IWhat was your voltage at the buss bars at 3,000 rpm, and how much did it change from standing voltage with engine off? Code could still be an ECM error created by low voltage, but my guess is that you are looking at a new issue. W
  15. On average mid 14's at 3,000.