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Wingnut

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About Wingnut

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    WINGNUT
  • Birthday 08/01/1953

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    wingnutmfs@yahoo.com

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  1. I would not waste a dime on new anything until you determine where the leak is. Air testing is pretty straight forward and will pinpoint the point of entry. W
  2. The ECM has a wealth of information about the engine like how many hours were run at wide open throttle, actual engine hours, any overheating events and the like. Trade-in value on a 2006 is around 30 grand if it's really clean as the used boat market is hot right now. I just turned down 40 for my 2008 256 SSX as it has been garage kept since new, shows as new, and at 400 hours has been maintained to a very high standard. Had a friend offer me 45 but it's impossible to secure a boat loan for a boat over 10 years old. A new one is worth about $140K, as long as the hull is sound a few repair do
  3. Drain the oil so the water is not laying in there. Remove the plugs, and do an air test on the cooling system to determine the source of the leak. Cracked block, head, blown head gasket, or leaking riser/exhaust manifold are most common. If you find water in the cylinders, focus your search more toward head gaskets and/or exhaust system. W
  4. I've never seen aluminum freeze plugs, but I guess anything is possible. My guess would have be electro-plated steel, but as they are not magnetic, perhaps they are stainless. I think at this point, you run the thing and if it will achieve rated WOT RPM with the stock prop/props, then it's a keeper. If not, you may wish to consider changing out the cam shaft. Nothing else unique on that lower end. I think you may have a keeper as there is not much of an incentive to substitute an automotive equivalent as marine crate motors are pretty cheap, either new or rebuilt. Is it still the 4" stan
  5. Put a magnet on one of the freeze plugs. If they are steel then it's a automotive version. If they are brass, then likely you have a marine version. The marine engine will have a stainless steel impeller in the coolant circulation pump too. The automotive versions have stamped steel. Cam is different but that would take some disassembly to determine. W
  6. Any Volvo dealer can help you as that service code is Volvo specific, not Chaparral based. I would double check the drive oil level as that will throw that alarm and limit power too. Perhaps your tech neglected to top the drive off after the first heat cycle after servicing. W
  7. If you turn the key on and remove the sending unit wire either at the gauge head or at the tank unit, the indicator should crank around past full. Conversely, putting the sense lead to a known ground will clock the needel to just below empty. W
  8. First issue is where did that chunk of aluminum end up. Not good to have that lodge in a bearing or gear set. The top cover can be drilled over-sized and a stainless steel threaded insert utilized to repair the bad threads. Your failure is somewhat common on that drive. W
  9. Each tank has it's own sending unit, which is nothing more than a variable resistor to ground. Each helm display is fed with 12 VDC positive as soon as the key is turned to the on position. They depend on their independent sense wires coming from aft. In your case it would seem both of these wires have been landed to the same gauge head. If this is true, then you can't believe the indication from the "working" gauge either as it is a combined signal. Go to the top of each tank and see what color wire runs forward, then find the other ends where they exit the harness and head toward the gauge c
  10. The factory Volvo and Merc paints are industrial enamels, but are not anti-foul-ant. Fine for trailer boats but if you leave her in the water you need to apply Trilux-33 from Interlux. Mill Thickness is key, and three coats from a quart with a spray gun works very well. Burp cans will get you there too, but it takes several. A quart and a gun gives you high build at an affordable price. Do it right, and it will look like you just did it in the fall when you pull her for winter storage. These coatings were developed for aluminum boats, and are compatible with the base metal. Never use a convent
  11. The added weight and softer torque curve in the mid-range makes 2 HP at WOT a bad trade-off even if you love noise. Sawing two large holes in a 2006 boat at or below the waterline, and making engine general servicing harder than it already is? If I was pushing 600+ HP through 500+ cubic inches it mike be a play, but your 5.7 is far from being exhaust limited. You time to plane will likely increase after install. W
  12. In 1995 Merc used both a stamped or cast engine bracket, and the assembled heights were different. If your boat had an engine swap from a donor engine, perhaps the wrong bracket was carried over. Or, perhaps the rubber isolation mounts at the rear of engine attachment points have degraded and allowed the rear of the engine to drop. W https://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serialize(value)/5.0LX_4_BBL._GM_305_V-8_1988-1995/816596/1014-350 https://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serialize(value)/5.0LX_4_BBL._GM_305_V-8_1988-1995/816596/1014-340 https://www.
  13. +1 on Cleaver's comments. Merc ECM can throw 37 different codes, some critical (constant tone) and some informational ( 2 beeps per minute). You can throw parts at the thing until the wallet is empty, or take a more systematic approach to isolating the alarm. First question, is the warning tone constant or beeps per minute? That really narrows the list. Warning System The engine warning system incorporates an audio alarm and, if installed, a SC1000 System Monitor. When the key switch is turned to the ON position, the audio alarm will momentarily activate to test the
  14. Low points in sink and shower drains are something most miss during winterization. Usually just pushes the fittings apart, but run some water into all the drains and assure yourself that it finds it's way to where intended. W
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