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About Wingnut

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  • Birthday 08/01/1953

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    Eastern Shore Maryland

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  1. Wingnut

    depth gauges

    You can test for proper transducer placement by putting water in the bilge, and moving the transducer around. It works on sound waves and searches for changed in density to reflect back the pulse, measuring the time it takes. I mount them to the inside of the hull often with epoxy resin. The transducer just thinks is has a thick cover and ignores that reading, shoots through the hull, and bounces off the bottom of the water way. You could try a transom mount if you can find some quiet water back there. W
  2. Wingnut

    depth gauges

    No thought necessary. In the bay, espicially at night, out of the shipping channel is a real good idea. 25' of water assures that but 15 or less tells me I'm in Crab Pot country.
  3. Wingnut

    depth gauges

    Transducer placement and orientation is the key. The face must stay wetted, and bonded to the water column regardless of speed or running attitude. Also, there is an arrow on the transducer body that must point in the proper direction according to the OEM's installation instructions. Show us your location and check the arrow, and go from there. W
  4. Sounds basic, but start with battery polarity. Negative ground (typically yellow wires), positive to hot (typically red wires).
  5. Just remember to keep it as far from a heat source as possible as you don't want to induce vapor lock. Also, all fuel pumps push better than they suck, so be careful about adding suction restrictions and a lot of extra fuel line length, as it's hard on the pump. The anti-siphon valve at the tank is a substantial suction restriction as it is. W
  6. Wingnut

    Trash in the tank

    Chaps after the early 2000's all have the screen at the bottom of the pick-up tube. W
  7. Nope. Homie don't do Volvo...
  8. They do, it's called a R-230 Robolo.
  9. Wingnut

    Trash in the tank

    The newer Chaps have a small mesh cylinder shaped screen measuring about 1/2" diameter x 1-1/4" long. Latest are flexible and seek the low point in the tank. https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/boat-fuel-pickup-line-1-2-20-threaded-x-26-1-4-inch-yellow?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp8601836&sc_intid=8601836&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1_G7pPOs6AIVCv_jBx0zQw51EAQYBCABEgJVtfD_BwE
  10. Mail box was full again. Try now. W
  11. Skill set aside, the challenge with a Bravo drive is having the proper tools as the complete set of spec Merc tools are not cheap. Beyond that, doing the repair improperly can cause a failure well beyond a simple seal leak. Gear set backlash, pinion depth, bearing pre-load, bearing carrier shim pack thickness, seal placement, and assembly torque are critical. Do it right and these drives will run for over 2,000 hours, and do it wrong and it will fail within hours, and when a bearing and/or gear fails it distributes metal trash throughout the drive so you could end up with a handful of bad gears and bearings. Cone clutch installation and initial set-up requires precise measurement also as you never want problems with shifting. If I were you I'd buy the bearing retainer wrench, remove the top bearing carrier, and get it apart, taking note as to where and how the shim pack was placed, and inspect both bearings and gear. If they are serviceable, then replace both the carrier o-ring and shaft seal and reassemble the stack in the exact order that you disassembled it. If you do not have the OEM manual, PM me with a valid e-mail address and I'll get a PDF heading your way as this is not something you should attempt without a couple reads through the manual. Your gimbel bearing suffered a catastrophic failure which puts lateral induced stress on both the engine coupler, u-joints, and out drive input shaft bearing carrier, and they will need careful inspection to ensure you don't have an issue there. I use a bore scope to inspect couplers and make sure you use the special spline specific extreme pressure lubricant on the spline teeth as that is critical. Trash a coupler, and the engine has to come out and the couplers are 700 beans for the big block.The gimbel showed no signs of bearing grease and on a 2008 there should be a grease fitting on the transom assembly. When you buy the new bearing see if you can find the older style bearing that still has a grease hole, as the new offerings are sealed. Coupler also has a grease fitting which can be serviced by laying across the top of the engine, and turning the engine over by hand until the fitting is pointing straight up and you should have a separate grease gun to lube this single fitting as the spec EP grease does not get used anywhere else. W (https://www.cpperformance.com/products/outdrives/bravo-tools.htm)
  12. With the input drive shaft abd u-joints shaft trashing about, it's little wonder that the input shaft seal took a hit. That said, in order for that seal to fail either there is deflection or just old age. The bearing carrier, seal housing, twin bearing assembly and top drive gear will need to be removed and dissembled. The carrier also has a large o-ring on the ID. Inspect the bearings and carrier carefully to be sure your new seal will live a long life. If bearing is replaced, the the stack clearance will need to be re-set which requires a shim pack assortment. W
  13. Likely the u-joints would have seen sea water also so as a minimum new gimbel, and u-joints. Engine alignment too, and a careful inspection of the spline female teeth on the engine coupler. A bore scope works best, but your 496 has the stainless work boat coupler so you will likely be ok there. Be sure to use the specified extreme pressure lubricant on these splines, and an MP grease just will not serve you well. The bellows is a crap shoot as a pin hole would still be an issue and the only way to know for sure is to remove it and do an air test. If it's the original 2008 unit, I'd replace it. Also as the driveshaft was being thrashed about, check the out drive input shaft bearing carrier, bearings, and seal set carefully for signs of gear oil leakage, and deflection. You may want to drain the drive and do a full pressure/vacuum test. As this looks like it's been failing for some time, I think you will be amazed at how smooth your repaired unit will be as long as you take your time and do the perfect alignment. They are a bit of a pain to get right, but the effort is well worth it. W
  14. Wingnut


    The 50 amp breaker controls the high amperage feed to the engine, and is hot as soon as you turn on the battery switch. The key switch sends a single 12 vdc low amperage hot to the relay marked main in the engine harness, and that signals the ECM to initiate. The start position of the key switch has a similar mission as it sends a single low amperage feed to the starter solenoid. Dock side power is 115 VAC and can power an on board battery charger, but power cant go beyond there if the battery switch is in the off position. None of this has anything to do with the key switch at the helm. W
  15. That is the correct color and you might just be surprised as to how well the color matches. Surface prep is the key as you want an invisible blend line, and need good initial adhesion for a lasting repair. Their repair paste works well, just mask off the adjacent area all the way around. Prep with 220 grit, and Acetone, build ample repair material above the level of the existing gel coat, and allow the paste to cure completely before wet sanding begins. I usually let it set for 2 days to cure. Block sand the repair with a hard rubber squeeze, and don't be tempted to sand with your fingers. Get the basic shape back with 320 grit wet and dry paper, then switch to 600 grit with a little dawn liquid in the sand water for lubrication. Be careful not to undercut and when yo think you are almost there, switch to 1,500 grit then finish with 2,000. You will find that very little compounding and polishing will be required if you did a good job with the sand paper. W
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