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Wingnut

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About Wingnut

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    WINGNUT
  • Birthday 08/01/1953

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    wingnutmfs@yahoo.com

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  1. I feel your pain. NHRA drag racing for me and top fuel engines will cave in your chest on the starting line. My class usually followed them during qualifying during match races in the early 70's so up close and personal was the norm. I found this to be an interesting read and the class has evolved well beyond this level since it was written. 10,000 horsepower plus from 500 cubic inches. Top Fuel Trivia One Top Fuel dragster 500 cubic inch Hemi engine makes more horsepower than the first 4 rows at the Daytona 500. Under full throttle, a dragster engine consumes 1½ gallons of nitromethane per second; a fully loaded 747 consumes jet fuel at the same rate with 25% less energy being produced. A stock Dodge Hemi V8 engine cannot produce enough power to drive the dragster supercharger. With 3000 CFM of air being rammed in by the supercharger on overdrive, the fuel mixture is compressed into a near-solid form before ignition. Cylinders run on the verge of hydraulic lock at full throttle. At the stoichiometric 1.7:1 air/fuel mixture for nitromethane the flame front temperature measures 7050 degrees F. Nitromethane burns yellow. The spectacular white flame seen above the stacks at night is raw burning hydrogen, dissociated from atmospheric water vapor by the searing exhaust gases .Dual magnetos supply 44 amps to each spark plug. This is the output of an arc welder in each cylinder. Spark plug electrodes are totally consumed during a pass. After ½ way, the engine is dieseling from compression plus the glow of exhaust valves at 1400 degrees F. The engine can only be shut down by cutting the fuel flow. If spark momentarily fails early in the run, unburned nitro builds up in the affected cylinders and then explodes with sufficient force to blow cylinder heads off the block in pieces or split the block in half. In order to exceed 300 mph in 4.5 seconds dragsters must accelerate at an average of over 4G's. In order to reach 200 mph well before half-track, the launch acceleration approaches 8G's. Dragsters reach over 300 miles per hour before you have completed reading this sentence. Top Fuel Engines turn approximately 540 revolutions from light to light! Including the burnout the engine must only survive 900 revolutions under load. The redline is actually quite high at 9500rpm. The Bottom Line; Assuming all the equipment is paid off, the crew worked for free, and for once NOTHING BLOWS UP, each run costs an estimated US $1,000.00 per second. The current Top Fuel dragster elapsed time record is 4.441 seconds for the quarter mile (10/05/03, Tony Schumacher). The top speed record is 333.00 mph (533 km/h) as measured over the last 66' of the run (09/28/03 Doug Kalitta). Putting all of this into perspective: You are driving the average $140,000 Lingenfelter "twin-turbo" powered Corvette Z06. Over a mile up the road, a Top Fuel dragster is staged and ready to launch down a quarter mile strip as you pass. You have the advantage of a flying start. You run the 'Vette hard up through the gears and blast across the starting line and past the dragster at an honest 200 mph. The 'tree' goes green for both of you at that moment. The dragster launches and starts after you. You keep your foot down hard, but you hear an incredibly brutal whine that sears your eardrums and within 3 seconds the dragster catches and passes you. He beats you to the finish line, a quarter mile away from where you just passed him. Think about it, from a standing start, the dragster had spotted you 200 mph and not only caught, but nearly blasted you off the road when he passed you within a mere 1320 foot long race course.
  2. Wingnut

    2 new engines, overheat alarm

    Check the transfer hose between the out drive upper gear case and the transom plate, and also the transom hose barb. A pinch in that hose or internal blockage could restrict flow, but it would seem that they have already checked that. A small crack in the hose or corroded hose barb could allow air to enter the inlet stream via the raw water pump suction hose, limiting pump delivery volume. I like their idea of a clear test hose on the pump discharge as it would show air bubbles. Also, pumping indirectly into a 5 gallon bucket for 10 seconds would give you a good idea of available pump capacity at idle, and it would be nice to compare between the good engine and the not so good one. Don't rule out a blown head gasket on the bad motor either. Base ignition timing could be way off, or even a spun main bearing. How do the oil pressures compare? W
  3. Wingnut

    Bow Thruster

    Don't laugh. Professor Erwin Corey made it all the way to 102, and died in 2017.
  4. Wingnut

    Bravo 3, replace 26P with 28P prop?

    At the very least, get the old props off and set up a dial indicator on a fixed stand, and check both prop shafts for run-out. Hard to believe that a prop could suffer that severe of an impact without bending the shaft as the inner, rear prop drive shaft is small in diameter, and is cantilevered out so far from bearing support. w
  5. Wingnut

    Wich manifold and risers to purchase

    I hope you inspected the interior of the exhaust hoses and exhaust flappers at the y-pipe entry while you were in there. I think on a 2006, I might have rebuilt the starter also, for the price of a new bendix, brushes and solenoid. Fingers crossed, hoping your overheat is behind you. W
  6. Wingnut

    BAD ENGINEERING---BAD SERVICE

    OK. Busted. You caught me. I work for Bayliner. Ha
  7. These vents are thru-bolted, as holes through the boat are 7/8" diameter for a 1/4" stud. Crazy design with 1-1/2" diameter stainless steel fender washer on the inside, retained by a single 1/4" sst nut. You would think at the very least they would have double nutted the things. Find a newer Chap over a year old and you will find studs and nuts in the bilge. W
  8. On some of mine the stud unscrewed from the plastic vent, and on the others the nut just backed off. The holes in the boat were 3/4" diameter for a 1/4" stud so they need the big fender washers. Hatem's photos show both a missing nut in one case and a missing stud in another. I too considered the poly lock nut approach, but the plastic thread boss in the vent itself is so fragile that I did not think it would stand up to the twisting strain. Not very robust, but after 10 years mine still look as new and with the addition of a 1" length of 1/4" id rubber tubing, the nuts stay on. W
  9. Wingnut

    Toilet Questions - 275 SSI

    Somebody had to say it. Ha....
  10. Wingnut

    Chaparral Sunesta Voltage Fluctuation

    Hommie don't do Volvo. W
  11. Wingnut

    Chaparral Sunesta Voltage Fluctuation

    Nice. Free fixes are always the best. W
  12. Wingnut

    Smell Gas When Starting

    Fuel smell on an MPI engine is certainly not normal. Could it be a small exhaust leak? When the manifold and/or riser gaskets start to fail they weep on initial start-up and seal off as soon as they feel some heat. Eventually they get bad enough that they make some noise, but if you listen carefully at start-up you may be able to hear or even smell where it's coming from. Unless you can see evidence of an actual fuel leak, I'm betting you are getting a few puffs of exhaust into the bilge area during initial start-up.Look for stains, carbon, or even rust. I just did a big block that had a plastic smell, only to find that a riser gasket pin hole was melting the wiring harness. More likely an exhaust leak as you say it goes away, and an actual fuel leak would be there as long as the fuel pumps were running. W
  13. Wingnut

    Impellar Housing

    The Harden has replaceable end plates, but I've yet to hear of one that ever needed them. The stainless alloy is pretty stout. Larger bearings, seals, and shaft so you would need to get repair parts directly from Harden in the future, with the exception of the impeller and case o-ring. As Pops said, you would want the one with the pulley as the stock pulley can be a bear to get off the old pump. W
  14. Mine had 1/4" stainless steel all-thread studs screwed into a threaded receiver which was molded into the plastic cover. The stud went through the hull, and was secured with a large stainless steel fender washer and 1/4" nut. Kept finding nuts and washers in the bilge the first season, then I secured the stud into the plastic with lock-tite and tightened the 1/4" nut to a quarter turn beyond hand tite. I then slid a length of rubber hose on the the remaining threads to keep the nuts from working their way loose again. This all assumes that you can get to the studs on your boat. Mine were doable, but not easy. If not, pump a glob of 3-M 5200 behind them at the mounting points and tape them down flat for 24 hours. They will be water tite and remain there when you sell the boat. W
  15. Wingnut

    Impellar Housing

    I take the stern side end plate (hose connecting manifold) and do a weld overlay with red brass. I find the replacement clad material to be far harder than the bronze OEM castings. I then machine the built-up surface dead flat. I then press off the drive pulley from the impeller shaft, and drive out the bearings and seals. Older ones are a simple press fit, and the newer ones include a snap ring behind the outer seal. I then clear the area of the front plate with a cup brush covered with scotch brite and use my drill press to polish the deep scratches until they shine like new. I then melt silver solder into the scratches allowing it to self level. I then machine that area dead flat, install new bearings and seals, and tell the owner to stop using his skeg as a depth finder. There is an aftermarket kit that includes drop in replaceable wear plates, but it requires the use of an impeller that is 1/16" shorter than stock. For me, I don't like the idea of reducing available pump volume right out of the gate. The Harden Stainless pump has a bigger bearing set and larger diameter shaft, but uses the stock impeller and has replaceable stainless end plates. W https://goo.gl/images/UcGNj4 http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-15774-stainless-steel-gen-7-sea-pump-for-mercury-350-496-and-502-mag.aspx https://www.ebay.com/i/262735979625?chn=ps
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