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About Wingnut

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  • Birthday 08/01/1953

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    Eastern Shore Maryland

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  1. Wingnut

    2005 210ssi trim sender testing

    I have replace many of these after winter lay-up, as a boat yard will pull a boat at seasons end, clean the bottom, and dry store it for winter. As the owner launches in the spring, no trim gauge, and the yard charges him again to lift the boat so that we can change out the sender. My belief is that the boat yard actually failed the sender by getting carried away with the pressure washer in the fall. They just don't like concentrated high pressure water. W
  2. Wingnut

    Overheating, losing coolant.

    If these are the pictures, I'm missing something... W
  3. I had a little water diverter I hung over the side so that my neighbor would not have to hear my condenser discharge water running overboard all night. I put a 17,000 BTU split system in my 30' Sundancer, which located the compressor in the engine space and had 2 zones evaporators. Whisper quiet, and you could store meat in the aft cabin. W
  4. Wingnut

    Overheating, losing coolant.

    Cast iron is really hard so any steel wire wheel is fine. At some point we will want to get each piston to the bottom of it's bore and do an oil test and visual inspection.but lets get the gasket off first as I don't like what I'm seeing between the cylinders. Hopefully it was only the gasket that took the hit. Piston tops are aluminum, and by getting the piston to the top of the bore, they are easy to clean with the same wire brush. Softer metal so go easy. If the deck cleans up good, then I'd do the dye penetrant test discussed earlier. Also, please get the lifter valley ragged off to prevent trash from dropping down into the oil pan. Did you do your timing chain test yet? W
  5. Wingnut

    Overheating, losing coolant.

    Heads go to the shop as they are. Obviously a head gasket failure and it will be important to clean and examine the area of the block deck after you get the gasket removed. That has seen a lot of heat and my hope is that the block is not damaged. Get her buffed up with a wire wheel and the lay your machined straight edge across that area. They are not OEM gaskets either so she's been apart before. Based on what I can now see of the cylinder heads, it looks like we guessed right on the gasket set. I would not let the shop start on the heads until you confirm that you still have a viable block. W
  6. Wingnut

    Possible air intake valve ?

    The IAC valves ( Idle Air Control) will fail in two fashions. If the servo motor dies that is an electrical fault that the ECM will see, and set an "Engine Sensor" alarm. If they die mechanically, basically getting stuck in the wrong position now and then, drive-ability goes to heck, but the ECM stays happy. Some have said that they remove the IAC and clean the pindel, but I have never tried that as aftermarket replacements are not all that expensive, and it's a 5 minute change-out. W
  7. Wingnut

    Alarm went off while running

    Sorry too. Homey don't do Volvo. W
  8. Wingnut

    Overheating, losing coolant.

    Had some time this morning to drill down into your top engine gasket set. Here is the other possibility and I included the link to Rock Auto. Going on memory here as Merc did not change over their Vortec design the same year that GM did, but if you look at the intake manifold to head gaskets, you will be able to identify which one you have. I tried to go back and look at your intake pictures, but they are not there anymore. I think the first number I gave you is the correct one, but to be sure take a quick look at the attached link and photo. I also included a link to the best thread sealant I've found for head bolts. As far as questions go, our motivation is to prevent new owners from making the same mistakes as we did. Hardest part is the control of miss-information. Take your time, buy quality parts, and ask your questions before turning your wrenches and you will be fine.You and I know that any shop would hand you a bill for something north of 4 grand to pull this off. W https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8006720&cc=1031555&jsn=620&jsn=620 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/permatex-thread-sealant-with-ptfe-1-oz.-80631/16160028-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=16160028-P&adtype=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhd_QgIGq4gIVAp7ACh1yuQPTEAQYAyABEgKxRvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
  9. Wingnut

    Need to sale

    As with all loans, I would think that it depends on the individual's overall financial situation. So many out there figure if they can make the payment, then they can afford it. Dad always told me there is no better rate than NO INTEREST. Smart man. W
  10. Wingnut

    Overheating, losing coolant.

    If you have the early style one piece intake manifold, then the gasket set I specified may not be the right one. That's why I said that you would need to match the intake gaskets in the picture to the ones on your engine to be sure. This takes some effort to get it right but the "marine" gasket sets are so stinking expensive it's worth the effort. The automotive engines from the factory don't have exhaust manifold gaskets, but all marine engines do. The Fel-Pro kit includes exhaust gaskets in case an older engine were to have some warp-age. If they compare nicely to your OEM Merc originals, then you're covered. Head bolt kit number looks correct, but you will need 2 sets, one for each head as that is how they are sold. As Doc said, sealant on thethreads as they screw into the water jackets. W
  11. Wingnut

    Overheating, losing coolant.

    His was a 305, and yours will need the Vortec 350 kit as head gaskets are different. Unlike the automotive counterpart, your manifolds are gasketed too so those are a separate OEM Merc purchase. Also, be careful when you bolt the two half's of the intake manifold together, as you are dealing with plastic. Real easy to dislodge the massive O-ring and end up with an oil leak. Also, order new head bolt set as this engine uses stretch bolt technology and the old bolts are not to be reused. The Fel-Pro number should be your kit, just take a look at the intake manifold gaskets to be sure they match your existing, and this kit comes with exhaust manifold gaskets but they are not Marine spec. W FEL-PRO HST7733PT16 {#HS5746C}
  12. Wingnut

    Engine noise - “popping” or “missing”

    The newer ECM managed engines rely on input from both the crank position and cam position sensors. When the relationship between the two gets out of range, the software can get confused and create a miss fire. In the old days, retarded valve timing often got compensated for by an increase in ignition timing as a tech would simply advance the distributor during the next tune-up. As Curt said, sooner or later the chain would fail and either cause a no start condition or the pistons would smack a valve or two and it would get really expensive. Timing cahin failure is rare now days as they use double row roller chains which will live for 1,000 hours with the modern oils available. My only other comment is cleaning the throttle body. In the future consider removing the body as it's only a few bolts. Then remove the throttle position sensor to prevent damage before using the carb cleaner. 2+2 Gum Cutter seems to work the best. After you finish with the cleaning, soak the throttle plate, cross shaft and body bushing with CRC or similar product. The cleaning has removed all the lubrication and you don't need future wear there. Everyone is quick to spray cleaners into the air intake, with little regard as to where all that crap is heading. Better a puddle of black mud on the work bench than on valve seats and cylinder walls. W
  13. Wingnut

    New impeller, no water flow

    I hate to say this but it sounds like they replaced the impeller, but not the wear plates. A used, healthy impeller over time wears into the groves in a damaged housing. Put a new, flat impeller in there, and they don't pump near as well as the old one. The flat ends of the impeller need flat end plates to seal or they will by-pass internally and refuse to prime, especially on muffs. The only other things to check is if you have the single point auto drain system and it was left in the "armed/drain position" or the suction hose quick coupler is not nested together completely. Either way, I'd take her back. W
  14. Wingnut

    Overheating, losing coolant.

    The CRC is to protect the raw cast iron cylinder walls that have been exposed to some coolant. The center piston rings are cast also, so soak down the bores and piston domes really good. There is plenty of oil film in the lifter valley to protect it. Just keep the opening covered with rags to prevent debris from getting down in the sump. You will want to crank the engine over by hand a few revolutions while you are spraying the CRC to make sure the entire cylinder bore has a film of oil. As far as the machine work goes, make the shop aware that you had over-heating issues, and that they need to deck the heads, inspect the valves and valve seats and replace as necessary. Complete valve job, inspect and/or replace valve guides as needed, and shim the valve springs or replace them if they are out of spec. A top shop will have the ability to pressure test the finished assembly, but at the very least they need to crack check the castings via the magnetic particle or dye penetrate method. If you buy your complete upper end gasket set now, you can give the shop the included valve guide seals so that you don't have to pay the shop to supply them. While the heads are away on their vacation, it's up to you to get the block in shape which includes cleaning all the gasket surfaces with a scraper and wire wheel. After you have them looking as new, use a steel precision straight edge, flash light, and a set of feeler gauges to confirm that the block decks as not warped. Put the steel on it's edge, across the sealing surface at several locations and use the thinnest feeler gauge in the set to see if you can pass that thickness under the steel. .002" is too much. Lastly, obtain a dye penetrate test kit on line, and follow the directions so that you are sure there are no near invisible cracks in the block. We now know that you had combustion gasses sneaking into the cooling system, and we are assuming that a head gasket had failed, but need to be sure. If you plan to skip this step, then figure on doing the air test after you get the heads back on. Lastly now is a good time for secondary maintenance, and if you have not checked the timing chain for slop, it's easy to do and costs nothing. Be a real shame to fail an old chain in the future and have all those shiny new valves get bent. Even the starter is right there staring up at you and a quick trip to the rebuild shop would buy you another 15 years. Distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, all right there right now. W
  15. Wingnut

    Fresh water pump switch

    It's not a rocker switch on the helm grouping? W