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Wingnut

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    WINGNUT
  • Birthday 08/01/1953

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    wingnutmfs@yahoo.com

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  1. As an impeller wears it will lap into any end plate or housing sand scratches. When a new impeller is installed, the straight rubber impeller edges will bridge over the sand groves, and not seal completely. Upon initial start-up, the pump needs to be able to displace air as the suction becomes wetted, and the pump becomes primed. Did you inspect the housing interior? W
  2. Timing does not change. I would suspect a fuel quality or delivery issue. W
  3. This one really has me stumped. W
  4. Are you using an OEM Merc gasket set of an aftermarket? Are you over-torquing the retaining nuts, or has it been done in the past so that the gimbel is distorted? Check surfaces with a straight edge, as I've never had this happen. W
  5. Per drawing, make sure you order everything you need. W https://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serialize(value)/R-MR-ALPHA_ONE_Sterndrive_1983-1990/ 99964/2203-110
  6. That's not a lot of water volume even at idle. Is the Alpha raw water impeller fresh? Is the connecting hose from the drive to the transom assembly intact, not kinked, or restricted? You are right, no ECM on a 1990. W
  7. Your boat may have two water temperature sending units. One is for gauge indication, and the other is a simple switch that talks to the ECM. Perhaps you replaced the ECM sender/switch, and not the variable output sender that feeds the helm indication. Sounds like your engine is not actually overheating. W
  8. Yep, that's the check valve. Super simple design, but it works. W I wanted to take a minute to comment on oil usage in both the Alpha's and Bravo drives as it seems to be a topic that surfaces on the forum almost weekly. My contentions based on 35 years in the Lubes business and over 40 years in boating are as follows. First of all, I feel that any actual consumption of oil by a drive system indicates a leak. If the drive shaft bellows accumulates gear oil, the input shaft seal is leaking and needs to be changed along with a careful inspection of the top bevel gear bearing set. If the owner is very aggressive about greasing the gimbal bearing, then it would be normal to see a small amount of carrier oil separation from the grease accumulate in the bellows, but it would not be the same color as the gear oil. Secondly, the remaining three drive seals are all below the water line during operation and a leak would be evident by an oil sheen in the water both during operation and at rest. For obvious reasons, these also need to be fixed in a hurry due to pollution issues and also their ability to draw water into the drive housing during cool down. Other than that, there are a few gaskets and an o-ring which I have never seen fail unless they were installed improperly. This leads us to the question of "why does my drive use oil, and where does it go?" Based on my experience I suggest the following. Gear oil is a complex hydrocarbon matrix comprised of large chain molecules which are subject to a phenomena known as shear. Think of a gallon bucket full of tennis balls. You can only get so many balls in the bucket due to the amount of air that is surrounding each ball. Under heavy loads like water sports as you suggested, some of these molecules break down into smaller pieces due to shear. Now the bucked seems to be only 7/8 full as the tennis balls are now smaller in size, but there are more in number and if we were to weigh the bucket we would find that it weighs the same as before. We did not loose any balls, that just take up less space then they did before. The same thing happens with gear oil. As the molecules shear, they take up less space and it appears that there has been an external loss of oil. Actually it is still there, just degraded in quality somewhat. After 50 to 100 hours of this abuse, it begins to loose its effectiveness and is in need of a change out. Gear oils have a very high density, and a fairy low gravity. Drop a golf ball in a bucket of gear oil and it take a while to reach the bottom. Drop the same ball in Gasoline and it sinks quickly. Now weigh each bucket and you will find that the gasoline is much heavier then the gear oil. Gasoline has a higher gravity, but lower density. That’s because its individual molecules are very small with little space for air between them. The same volume of gear oil has a lesser mass as the complex chain molecules are large by comparison and have a great deal of air between them. Beat those big molecules into little ones in a high speed, non-hypoid gear case such as an out drive, and pretty soon the same amount of oil takes up less space, and needs a top off. Nothing actually leaked out, the balls just got smaller. Lastly I'd like to suggest a variation in the method in which you and others change your drive oil. I keep reading about the air that gets trapped during refill and the subsequent need for topping off, and also about drive oil reservoir level alarms after servicing, and I can tell you I have a quick and easy solution. DON'T REMOVE THE TOP VENT PLUG, or install it tight prior to refill. When draining the drive, remove the cap from the remote reservoir, and remove the bottom drain plug. It's important to drain the reservoir anyway as sediment accumulates in the bottom of the bottle due to thermal capillary circulation during normal operation. Get this old oil out with the rest of the drive oil as it is just as old and just as worn out. Attach your filler to the bottom drain as normal, and pump up the drive until oil appears in the remote reservoir. Look Mom, no air. The oil tube that runs up to the plastic bottle on the Gen II's exits the drive higher then the top vent plug, thus displacing the mystery air bubble. Using this methodology, I have never had to top off a drive after servicing. If you beat up an Alpha, expect to add a little oil due to shear, but if you are doing that often and there is no external leakage, the drive oil is shot and you need to think about changing it more often anyway. I use a pressure tank to fill my Bravo III-X as it take over three quarts. I change it every 50 hours, and have never had to top a drive off because I don't give the oil a chance to begin to shear and I don't start out with an air bubble in the first place. Keep the top plug in and watch out for shear loss and I think your drive will be around for another decade or so. I hate to hear our forum members talking about top off on drives without level alarms. If you have to add a half a quart to a Bravo, or even less to an Alpha, then the top bevel gear set and bearings in the upper gear case are already taking a big hit. Hope this helps.
  9. The cap is designed to seal while under pressure and vent when a vacuum occurs. Theory is, it will keep the lube side pressurized while underway, helping to prevent sea water infiltration at the prop shaft seal, and also relieve any vacuum that occurs every time a hot drive gets quenched, like when coming off of plane, so that drive does not promote sucking in of sea water. If oil is getting in the bilge, I would look closely at the bottle bottom fitting o-ring and the hose back to the transom plate. The OP may even have a front seal leak where the driveshaft enters the upper gear housing. I would not seal the lube cap off as then it could allow the drive to operate under a vacuum, never a good thing. If yu are experencing an over-pressure condition, then likely you have a trapped air bubble in the drive due to improper venting during re-fill. W
  10. Your dealer is correct (almost) as there are only 2 external, serviceable switches on the 4,000. The neutral safety switch is integral to the controller and can only be accessed by removing the rear cover from the controller as shown in the attached video. You will see a red and a yellow wire harness that connects to this hidden switch. W
  11. As I said, I use 3M spray adhesive as I'm just trying to hold it in place, not seal it. Too thick of a bead of anything will cause it to hydraulic out of position when tightened. Less is more in this case, and torque to spec, and not beyond. W
  12. I've never seen an I/O without one. Send us a photo of your shifter assm. W
  13. If you lay on top of the engine AND LOOK STRAIGHT DOWN BEHIND THE BELL HOUSING, YOU WILL SEE THE DRIVE SHAFT EXIT THE ENGINE COUPLER. JUST BEHIND THAT IS A LOW SPOT IN THE TRANSOM PLATE THAT CAN COLLECT WATER. ALSO, WHEN YOU SET THE DRIVE GASKET, i ALWAYS SPRAY ON SOME ADHESIVE TO THE GASKET SURFACE SO IT STAYS EXACTLY WHERE i PUT IT. cAN'T SEAL IF IT'S DISPLACED AS YOU ALREADY KNOW.
  14. I bought a waste pump, and mounted it to a hand cart, with a battery, on/off switch, and two 1-1/2" transfer hoses. I pack the boat you to the garage where I have a quick coupler mounted, and pump the waste tank into my domestic sanitary system. Easy, free, convenient, safe, and odorless. If you have 115 VAC nearby, you can buy a 115 volt AC transfer pump and do plug and play. Or is it plug and pump? W
  15. On an Alpha, the big o-ring at the input shaft jam nut is there to keep the castle nut from turning, not to seal the bellows chamber. You should expect to see water in the bellows void, gimbel bearing, and both U-joints. Dry her out, grease her up, and hope for the best. Depending on how high the water level got, your transom plate sump may also be full of water too, which means your coupler splines may have gotten wet as the gimbel bearing seal seldom is totally water-tite. W
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