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About Wingnut

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  • Birthday 08/01/1953

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    Eastern Shore Maryland

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  1. If they look like these, the rocker covers are removable, and replacements can be ordered that show what each operates. W https://www.carlingtech.com/marine
  2. Wingnut

    Engine swap

    The 4.3 came with a 1.8 to 1 and the 305's were supplied with a 1.6 so you will need to go up in pitch size or you will be twisting your new V-8 too tight IMHO. W
  3. Wingnut

    Engine swap

    What about your outdrive final drive ratio? W
  4. If the issue goes away, that is inconsistent with the drive lube level, or any other critical alarm. Check your low fuel level alarm and your minimum depth alarm and try shutting them off and see if the issue goes away. Beyond that, if you do not know how to check your drive lube, there is much you would be wise to learn. Send me a valid e-mail address via a pm and I'll get model specific service manuals to you. W
  5. Availability is spotty at best and the pricing is ridiculous. Try these guys as they have an inventory of decals which are currently out of production, or consider having your stripe painted on by a good custom shop. W https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/oem-parts-and-accessories/chaparral-boats?p=36
  6. Your "Power Steering" on this vintage boat is cable manual, hydraulic assist. There is a spring loaded diverter valve that takes the system to a null-bias when there is no steering wheel input being applied. Over time, the centering springs in the valve can become weak, on one side and upon start-up, the steering wheel will shake back and forth. The fix on the Merc's and early Volvo's is to remove the end cap on the steering ram valve body. Inside is the null bias adjustment screw, and you break loose the jam nut and turn the screw in 1/8 turn. If the problem goes away you are finished. If it gets worse or is still there, then move the screw 1/4 turn in the opposite direction. You are at an advantage as the newer rams have a sealed cap and can't be adjusted. W
  7. Wingnut

    Drive issue

    Some places here got talked into the Amsoil Synthetic marine gear oil as it met the GL-5 spec. Trouble is there is no friction modifier and the cone clutches never experience solid lock-up. Not a lubricity break-down issue, just the stuff is too slick. Same thing happens if you use the Merc premium lube and not the high performance lube as the premium is only suitable in an Alpha. If the fluid is black, get it out of there. W
  8. Work backwards. Obviously you are getting insufficient cooling water flow to or from your manifold. Remove the feed hose, and start the engine, and observe how much water you have feeding the good manifold as compared to the problem one. Keep the test run to less than 15 seconds on a cold engine. That's your base line. If the delivery volumes are equal, then you have a restriction within the manifold itself. If the delivery volume to the problem side is deficient, then start working backward until you find the obstruction. No real way to back flush, just hose removal and inspection. Is your engine closed loop fresh water cooled or raw water cooled? W
  9. Check your sea strainer for an obstruction. We get baby jelly fish here that you can barely see, but they will shut the condenser cooling water off in a hurry. Do you have a full stream of water going overboard when the compressor starts? W
  10. https://www.boats.net/product/mercury/78458A1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrY34o-LN6gIVUPDACh2XXQAvEAQYBiABEgL-WfD_BwE
  11. Merc Manual shows it in the discharge circuit. https://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serialize(value)/5.0L_MPI_ALPHA-BRAVO/884717005/13884-210
  12. See if the drain hose has come off of the anchor locker, or forward cooler in the bow. Common issue on that hull, and allows sea water to enter bilge space anytime you are at a bow down attitude and/or crossing a wake. W
  13. I found the PDF for smart craft initial set-up. Send me a valid e-mail address on a PM and I'll send it to you. W
  14. Common failure on these VeeThree square gauges. The digital RPM display remains accurate, and the analog degrades over time. VeeThree claims the moisture is not an issue as the individual internal components are sealed. I don't know if I buy that, but they do not offer a repair service for these gauges. I've drilled tiny vent holes in them just behind the chrome bezel, two bottom and 3 across the top, and no more moisture build up. Keeping the dash light dimmer cranked all the way up helps too. W
  15. There is one neutral safety switch in the shifter, and as long as she cranks when the key is turned to start, that one is fine. The second switch I think your dealer is referring to is the shift interrupter switch that is mounted to a lever affixed to the top of the motor. Alpha drives use a simple dog clutch which is hard to pull out of gear with engine torque applied to the prop. Think about a manual car transmission, if you try to pull it out of gear without depressing the clutch petal. However, lift your foot off the gas petal and the trans pulls up into neutral almost without effort. Same is true on the Alpha. When you apply effort the the shift cable, it deflects a lever, which is connected to a micro switch which momentary shuts off the engine until effort is eased. Engine then restarts almost instantly. The issue with this system is the requirement for an almost perfect adjustment. It's a step by step process and as long as you don't take any short cuts, and the shift cables are in good condition, they are very repeatable and reliable. W
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