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Wingnut

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About Wingnut

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    WINGNUT
  • Birthday 08/01/1953

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    wingnutmfs@yahoo.com

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  1. Have not seriously advertised my 256 SSX yet, but have had an appreciable amount of interest so I'm leaning toward private sale. I'd hate to trade a one owner garage queen to a dealer. W
  2. Wingnut

    Volvo Penta 5.0 Gxi-e sputtering, black (ish) smoke

    There would be no pressure in the "vacuum" line. (OK, I could not resist that one). The pressure will be in the fuel rail, and upstream side of the regulator. As it sounds like you have too much delivery pressure to the fuel rail and injectors, I suggested that you get a fuel pressure gauge and test the pressure at the fuel rail. You may have an injector hung open but more likely a failed regulator. Removing the plugs one at a time and looking for a single cylinder that reads different indicating an injector issue is another approach, but I'd still start with a simple pressure test. Gauges can be had at any automotive store for a couple bucks. W
  3. Talking with my Cobia dealer, he indicated that Yamaha actually uses the Volvo joystick system but in order to buy it on twins you first need to buy the digital engine option, and option for the digital throttle and shift. That way you can upgrade to joystick at any time, but it's cheaper to do it from the factory. On my new Cobia 277 CC with twin 250's, you are talking about 23 grand for twins if you want the GPS enabled station keeping option, and that was near dealer cost. The issue I have with the joystick is how few dealers train their techs on this bugger. All too often the boat sits in their yard until the "area/regional expert" gets to it. I will buy the digital motor and control option (DTS) but unless I find I absolutely can't handle docking the boat on windy south Florida days, I'll keep her "joy stick free". Too many stories showing up here about repair bills in the thousands after the warranty expires. W
  4. Wingnut

    Port Engine lost power - Need some help please

    The all aluminum billet distributor will work nicely but you will need to swap over the Merc module as the plug will likely be different and also look for a small flame arrestor screen in the base of the old distributor. If it's there then it will need to be transferred to the new distributor. If you can shove a camera down in the bilge and take a picture of the drain lines affixed to the block drains, I would like to see them. The key is to find a low point and get the water out and it's also nice to get those plugs out to flush the engine block because on a 2006, you should expect to find some sediment which accumulates right along that water jacket, and those little 1/4" NPT holes are the only way to get it out of there. Shop vac helps too. I suspect you are talking about item 10 on the attached drawing. If so, you can drain the water from the front end of the hose, but there has to be a swivel end at one end of those hoses, otherwise it could never have been assembled. There is no way they would crimp the end on after assembly. We suspect your engine has some localized overheating issues and it's important that it's cleaned inside. Lastly, did you look at the exhaust flappers yet? The other attached drawing shows their location ( item #7) and don't be surprised if they are not there. If you cook them bad enough the rubber melts, and the stainless steel flapper doors fall down into the exhaust outlet. This can partially block the exhaust and cause localized overheating too. http://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serialize(value)/350_MAG_MPI_ALPHA_BRAVO_EC/8M0049001/15323-210 http://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serialize(value)/350_MAG_MPI_ALPHA_BRAVO_EC/8M0049001/15323-340
  5. Wingnut

    2 alarm beeps every minute

    Smart Craft alarms come in two flavors. Critical, and informational. The critical ones like overheat, over speed, low oil pressure, low drive oil, low sea water pump pressure and the like will sound the buzzer constantly so you can rule those out. It's a little tricky because if the engine EMC reads a sensor and it says the engine is hot, or the sea water pressure is actually low it will set an alarm. If the same sensor fails and gives the EMC a value that is outside of the theoretically possible range then the EMC ignores it and sets a two beep per minute alarm, and let you run home at speed. Your tech may need to ride with you with his scan tool plugged in. Either that our you buy your own Marine scan tool. The less critical ones like those from an engine sensor will give you two beeps a minute. The first question I have is your trim gauge indicating properly? That sender failure will set a 2 beep alarm, as will an IAC. The IAC usually fails all together and it sounds like your issue is intermittent like a failing trimsender or old style raw water pressure sender. I've attached the listing below and you need to concentrate on the 2 beeps per minute ones, but as Paul has stated, there are several and if you can't catch it in the act, then it may take a while to find. W Warning System The engine warning system incorporates an audio alarm and, if installed, a SC1000 System Monitor. When the key switch is turned to the ON position, the audio alarm will momentarily activate to test the warning system. The alarm should sound once if the system is operable. This table is a guick guide, showing what warning output will accompany a fault. Fault SC1000 Audio Alarm Available Power Description Cam Sensor Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open or short, engine must be cranking to set this fault code. ECT CKT HI Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open ECT CKT LO Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Short ECT Coolant Overheat Yes Constant 6-100 % Engine guardian overheat condition EST 1-8 Open Yes 2 Bp/min NA Coil harness wire open EST 1-8 Short Yes 2 Bp/min NA Coil harness wire short Fuel Injector 1-8 Open Yes 2 Bp/min NA Fuel injector wire open Fuel Injector 1-8 Short Yes 2 Bp/min NA Fuel injector wire short IAC Output Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Only with rpm Knock Sensor 1 Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Alarm sounds for 20 seconds in NEUTRAL and indefinitely in gear. Knock Sensor 2 Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Alarm sounds for 20 seconds in NEUTRAL and indefinitely in gear. Low Drive Lube Strategy Yes Steady Bp 0-100% Low oil in sterndrive Low Oil Pressure Strategy Yes Constant 0-100% Low oil pressure strategy MAP Sensor 1 Input High No 2 Bp/min 90% Short, no visual on SC1000 MAP Sensor 1 Input Low No 2 Bp/min 90% Open, no visual on SC1000 MAT Sensor Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open or short in MAT circuit NOTE: If any 5v sensor becomes shorted to ground the engine will not start. If the engine is operating when the short occurs the engine may stop operating and will not start. Fault SC1000 Audio Alarm Available Power Description Oil PSI CKT Hi Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Short, defaults to 51.7 psi Oil PSI CKT Lo Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open, zero oil pressure Overspeed Yes Constant RPM Limit Engine over rpm limit Port EMCT CKT Hi Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open, defaults to 32 degrees F (0 degree C) Port EMCT CKT Lo Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Short, defaults to 32 degrees F (0 degree C) Port EMCT CKT Overheat Yes Constant 6-100% Overheat condition, 212 degrees F (100 degrees C) limit Sea Pump PSI Lo Yes Constant 6-100% Low water pressure strategy, defaults to 43.4 psi Sea Pump CKT Hi Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open Sea Pump CKT Lo Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Short STB EMCT CKT Hi Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open, defaults to 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) STB EMCT CKT Lo Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Short, defaults to 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) STB EMCT CKT Overheat Yes Constant 6-100% Overheat condition, 212 degrees (100 degrees C) limit Steer CKT Hi Yes No No Open and short TPS1 CKT Hi Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Short, signal to 5v+, engine will not start. Refer to data monitor screen. TPS1 CKT Lo Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open TPS 1 Range Hi Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Above 4.8v, 994 counts TPS 1 Range Lo Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Below 0.5v, 35 counts Trim CKT Hi Yes No No Short, high range, visual warning on SC1000 only. Trim CKT Lo Yes No No Open, low range, visual warning on SC1000 only. 5 VDC PWR Low Yes 2 Bp/min varies Short any 5v+ to ground NOTE: If any 5v sensor becomes shorted to ground the engine will not start. If the engine is operating when the short occurs the engine may stop operating and will not start.
  6. Wingnut

    2004 330 Chaparral with rudder leak

    Got it. Good luck, and I'm guessing access is a bit tight. W
  7. Wingnut

    Volvo Penta 5.0 Gxi-e sputtering, black (ish) smoke

    I'm not a fan of throwing parts at the thing until you do the testing and determine what the issue is. I'd pull the vacuum line from the regulator and if there is gasoline inside of it, there should not be and would indicate a failed regulator. Before you start pulling fittings apart, have a absorbent rag ready as the system holds pressure and a fair amount of volume which will be released as soon as you crack the fitting. Some fuel systems are clipped together and require a special tool in order to part the fittings. As far as using an aftermarket part, I have no experience with them. W
  8. Wingnut

    2004 330 Chaparral with rudder leak

    What engine and drive on your 2004 330? Merc or Volvo? Likely the leak is the driveshaft bellows but it could be the gimbel swivel. No packing on these as they are precision bushed and sealed. W
  9. Wingnut

    Noisy water pump

    A slow, drip leak on the discharge side can obviously cause the pump to cycle as they will run anytime the discharge side pressure shut off switch is not satisfied. If you find no leaks, then likely there is a pin hole in the switch diaphragm. When this happens there is no external leakage. If you list your pump make and model number, then we will be able to find an exploded parts listing on line and these switches are easy to change. If you are handy, you can also buy an overhaul kit which includes the diaphragm, or purchase an entire replacement pump for around $80. W
  10. Wingnut

    Port Engine lost power - Need some help please

    It's all about sequence as you already discovered. Yes, manifold and valve cover, then do your timing chain evaluation first, then you can mark and remove the distributor. Drain the block, and then remove the intake. Heads next, and then we can see if the cylinders have suffered. Also look for evidence of impact damage to the top of the pistons. W
  11. Wingnut

    Volvo Penta 5.0 Gxi-e sputtering, black (ish) smoke

    Sounds like your fuel pressure regulator has failed. Your high pressure electric fuel pump is a rotary vane direct drive type, and can build up excessive pressure that the injectors can't control unless the regulator is doing it's job. Also, on the outside of the regulator's primary diaphragm, there is a void space with a return line to a vacuum port on the intake network. A failed diaphragm will allow fuel to feed the engine in an uncontrolled fashion. They do this so a failed regulator won't dump fuel into the bilge space. Next step is a pressure test at the fuel rail. W
  12. Wingnut

    Port Engine lost power - Need some help please

    First thing to do is get the distributor properly indexed so that you can see exactly where it needs to be during re-installation. Spec is +/- 1 degree so time spent now will pay off later. Remove the cap, and with all the plugs out (think you are already there) crank the engine over by hand until the rotor is pointing to the cylinder #1 terminal and then get the engine pointer on the harmonic balancer exactly to Top Dead Center/Zero Degrees on the timing mark. Find the index mark on the distributor mounting plate (inside where the ignition module mounts) and note it's location. Also, put a paint match mark on both the distributor body and and intake manifold, and take a picture or some measurements showing how the distributor is "clocked" before you remove it. Then and only then, remove the distributor hold down clamp and module wiring and pull straight up.. Timing and spark advance are handled by your ECM, but it is important that the cam off-set is established properly. If not, the coil will still fire at the proper moment, but the rotor to cap alignment won't be right at that instant. They call it rotor phasing and if it's off, you will go through distributor caps like crazy. Be careful with the cap screws as the OEM distributor bodies are plastic. No tricks on the fuel rail, so buy the tool. No need to remove those components either as the manifold will come off as an assembly, but to make it easier, get the other valve cover off first. I do not see a reason that the engine lifting brackets need to come off either, but you will know that soon enough. Lastly, know that your block is still filled with water (or coolant if fresh water cooled). When you pull the heads, half of that water will end up in both the cylinders and oil pan. Best to get that out now and pretty easy to do with both exhaust manifolds off. On each side of the engine at the mid point just above the oil pan rail, you will find a drain plug. Remove them one at a time and have a wet and dry shop vac in hand to catch the water. Figure on about a pint from each side. Once it's drained, then you won't have water going places where it should not be when you pull the heads. Change the oil just before start-up as some debris might get down in there during the block surface cleaning regiment, no matter how careful you are. Some cleaning solvent too for that matter and if you do it just before you install the distributor, we will tell you how to prime the oil pump which gets oil to everything at pressure, and fills the new oil filter. As far as how and why, we will know better once we see the inside of the combustion chambers. One thing we know for sure, heat was a contributor. An intake valve receding into a valve seat to that amount can be a result of too much timing (not likely on your ride), poor fuel quality, chronic overload, or improper cooling. Lead in gasoline was a bad thing for us mere mortals, but it was an effective lubricant. The exhaust valve which we think is cracked could have been hit with a splash of cold water when the manifold failed, or it may have suffered from reversion if your exhaust flappers have failed, and you pulled the throttle back a little too quick. During heavy deceleration, a momentary vacuum is created within the exhaust port, even with the engine running. This event can suck sea water right into the cylinder. While your manifolds and risers are off you should inspect the flappers that are located at the entry point to the Y-pipe on both sides. We still have not ruled out a failing timing chain that allowed a piston to tag the exhaust valve, so once the head is pulled you need to examine the piston domes carefully. Pictures of the pistons and the combustion chamber of the cylinder head will help and comparison to a know good cylinder speaks volumes. A failing chain causes the cam shaft to lag behind the crankshaft and retarded valve timing can also cause higher combustion chamber temperatures. Easy check though, as you simply crank the engine by hand in the normal direction of rotation, then slowly rotate it backwards noting how many degrees of crankshaft rotation elapse before the distributor rotor begins to turn in the opposite direction. Anything more than 3 degrees represents the "slop in the chain and sprockets. New chain and sprockets are not expensive, but takes a fair amount of labor and if it's not bad, then there is no reason to change it, but again, test it before you pull the distributor so you know what you have. W
  13. Wingnut

    Port Engine lost power - Need some help please

    Great job. Now you know what you have. The intake valve has receded into it's seat so the valve, valve guide, and seat will need to be replaced. If there is not enough base metal remaining to hold a new stellite seat, then the head will need to be replaced. The seat pockets are machined into the head, then the head valve pocket is heated. The new seat is then packed in dry ice or dipped in liquid nitrogen, and then it is quickly dropped into the pocket. The tech only gets one bite at that apple, because as soon as the cold seat hits the hot pocket, they become one. The exhaust valve sounds like its cracked as suspected, and hopefully the seat is ok. Couple new valves, guide inserts, spring check, crack check, and back together again. Once the heads are off, then we need to continue with inspection and evaluation before you send the heads away. W
  14. Wingnut

    Engine Removal Proceedure

    Do a compression check on the engine while it's warm, then a leak down test. If the cylinders are within a few pounds and percentage leak down of each other, then you may just need to replace the intake valve stem seals which takes less than 3 hours if you have the tools. Do you get a puff of smoke upon initial start-up? If you do need an engine first figure out why the first one failed so soon, then think about one of these. https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/first-mate-marine W
  15. Wingnut

    Fleet Week Baltimore

    Sunday for us too. Saturday is wine tasting at brother in laws winery in New Jersey.
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