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Everything posted by Wingnut

  1. More than likely your trim limit sender has failed which is located on the port side of the out drive pivot point. Use the transom switch to raise the drive, then see if the throttle mounted switch will lower it. W
  2. The newer style Vortec GM 5.0 blocks have a cast aluminum timing case cover which is easily removed without disturbing the oil pan. The early small blocks had a lip that mated to the front of the oil pan, but the later engines use a captured gasket on the lower sealing surface that is part of the oil pan gasket assembly. If you carefully remove the cam cover, the gasket will stay with the pan and can be reused. A small coat of silicone on the cam cover will allow for leak free re-installation, just take your time. Use a pair of dowel pins in two of the bolt holes (one on each side) and pry down gently until the cover aligns with the alignment pins and the cover will slip right on You will need a harmonic balancer puller, and be sure to replace both the case cover crankshaft seal and gasket. Water pump will need to be removed also and depending on how many hours on the engine, take a good look at the timing chain while you are in there. Give the silicone 24 hours before running the engine is a good practice too. W
  3. Mobile is in Alabama, I worked for Mobil Oil. Ha... Any hoo, 10w-40 Automotive oils are not formulated to run at sustained high RPM and marine combustion chamber temperatures are significantly higher than their automotive counterparts so you need the increased viscosity. The 10w-40 would have issues with foaming in your application. The 15w-50 is the way to go and if you have been using conventional oils to date, you will see both a slight improvement in fuel economy and wot performance. W
  4. Mobil One 15w-50 is my choice since the late 80's. Available in 5 quart containers at WalMart for under 30 bucks.
  5. Unless they figure the pump faulted and fried an ECM output. Good news is it would appear they are close to finding the issue.
  6. So true. If it were me I'd be swapping the ECM's port to starboard and see if the problem follows the brain. It's good to have twins just for that reason. W
  7. The Evinrude E-Tec is a direct injected 2 cycle platform. Never heard of a V-Tech
  8. I bought a 256 new, and was ready to trade it until I added trim tabs. I too do not need to deploy them all that often, however just adding them to that hull changes the ride characteristics significantly to the point where I do know why Chap ever offered that ride without them. Be glad you have the tabs. W
  9. The oil pressure sender will be just behind the port side of the intake manifold, and screws into the oil gallery in the block. There are a few models that mount just above the oil filter but I think you will find yours atop the engine. As far as the steering, it's hard to diagnose without doing some pressure testing. As you have not mentioned noise, or pulsation, I would guess that the pump is OK, and that your issue is within the cylinder/diverter valve assm. Your voltages seem perfect and it would seem your alternator is doing it's job. W
  10. Your low oil pressure fault could be a failing sensor or as you said, an oil of too low viscosity. IWhat was your voltage at the buss bars at 3,000 rpm, and how much did it change from standing voltage with engine off? Code could still be an ECM error created by low voltage, but my guess is that you are looking at a new issue. W
  11. On average mid 14's at 3,000.
  12. Marykate on and off. Used it for the first time ever this weekend on a badly brown stained white hull. They say use a natural brush, but it's an acid and I did not like the idea of laying under the drips. Used a 4" foam roller, and long handle, and application took 5 minutes. A quart would do a 40' hull easy. Hosed off and that boat looks as new. Effortless, but best done with boat on blocking, as this stuff would be death to a galvanized trailer. W
  13. Hello Boys, Did the boat show deal, and learned a few things. Chap was well represented, and actually had two dealer options. The star of the show for me was the Formula 350 CBR/FX fitted with triple 350 HP Outboards. Merc is claiming a greater market share as Yamaha is not able to produce enough engines for the new boat market. It's getting better, but dealers are still forced to use Merc props on their Yammy engines, and they can't buy a Yamaha loose. The Formula is absolutely beautiful and the gelcoat and graphics are show car smooth. At close to 400 grand it better be. I looked at Regulator and was not impressed. Whaler too fell short as they looked great from a distance, but seem to have suffered from the same fate as Bayliner and Sea Ray as looking down the side of the thing looks like a bad body repair job. Little wonder why Sea Ray is for sale. For me, a pleasant surprise was the Southport offering. Twin 300's standard, joystick, huge head, and the best rough water hull I saw there based on what I know. It's a Hall design carried over from their boats, and the lay-down is dead flat and solid. Anchor windless, great free-board, dry ride, and enough high end upholstery to make her comfortable without being impossible to maintain. They were a South Carolina company who has moved to Maine, and are not cheap but really caught our eye. Tidewater offering was not bad either and Jim's Marine from Galena has a few 29's to look at so I may shop a little. Keywest, Robalo, California Skiff, Scout, Grady White, Hurricane, and a host of others need not apply. The Cris Craft center console was solid, but like the Cobalts, pretty ugly boats IMHO. It was a good show if you are looking for a center console cross over with nice appointments, and solid utility as there were 200 like offerings, and very few I/O cabin models on display. I still think my Chaparral will find it's way to Florida and live on a hydro-hoist until we discover what boating is like on Charlotte Harbor and the Gulf. I won't get as much for my ride there, but won't pay as much for her replacement either. Time and money to be saved by getting a Mercury too, and the guys that have them love them, but it's hard hot to recognize how popular the Yamaha have become. The new e-tec Evinrude was only offered by one vendor there. The plus there is initial cost, fuel economy, and they offer colors, and the Yamaha comes gray only. The builders using them have the engines shipped to a 3rd party for custom painting for an extra 5 grand each. For 10 grand, I'll break out the Emron. Not a huge show and if you are looking for something with a cabin, or over 30', pick a different show. W
  14. Anyone else doing the Baltimore Boat Show tomorrow? I see the new Chap dealer from Galena, Maryland, Jim's Marine is going to be there.
  15. Do you have the 6.2 with the Alpha drive, or the Bravo? The Alpha pump is in the drive, and the Bravo is belt driven off the engine. W
  16. Or a corroded connection and/or termination somewhere. Don't just check voltage at the battery. Be sure to get as close to that ECM as possible to be sure it is seeing the same voltage as is the battery. W
  17. Bored Cop indeed. They do the same thing on the C&D canal, sitting stationary with their hand held in a 2.5 knot current. Try to explain that it's speed over the water and not speed over the ground and let me know how you make out. A single dual prop at idle hits 7 knots easily in those conditions and if you are drifting, you lose steerage. Just a reason to look further. The Coasties stationed here tell me there is a big problem with drugs moving up and down the bay, especially at night.Meth labs hidden in the woods. I thought this was Maryland, not Miami.
  18. Download the free manual for your toilet from the SeaLand website which walks you through it. I assume you have the Vaccu-Flush type system.
  19. Batteries are dealer installed, not factory and my 256 with the 8.1 came with 2 Interstate 1000 cca marine starting batteries. They lasted 10 years and one still tested fair, and the other good. I replaced with the same units. Start and run on battery position #1, and switch over to position #2 when at anchor. W
  20. Volvo is the only one that uses that protocol, and I'm a Merc guy. When I need to work on a friends Volvo, I do a search for each code on line as trying to buy manuals that cover all the years is a nightmare. All brands have their pluses and minuses, but Volvo can be so frustrating for a hobbyist like myself, because they have so many variations on their baseline, even within the same model year. On a 2008 5.7, I needed to souse a replacement ECM, only to find there were 5 possibilities that year for the same model. Another owner went through 4 water pumps before he received the one that actually fit his ride. Merc has changed their ECM's to keep up with the times, but have always added new codes as needed, while still maintaining the old so even if you are working on a 2017, chances are the fault code you find is in your 2008 manual. O-2 sensors and Cat convertors were added, but if you have smart craft the faults are spelled out in English. If I had a Volvo, I would buy the Rinda scan tool for Merc as it works on both. You would also need the patch cable for your specific engine. The read outs are in plain English, and if a friend's ride needs help, he would just need to buy the patch cable for his ride. Free software upgrades too, and the tool pays for itself the first time you need it. The tool also allows you to look into the histogram and seem faults that were active, then went away on their own. That can be a rea plus when searching for an intermittent problem. W
  21. Sounds like the stack clearance was out of spec during reassembly. A Bravo tool set is $5,700 and too many "marine" shops try to do the repairs without the proper tools. An input shaft seal failure is the lessor of the evils as it does not allow water infiltration into the drive. As long as the bearing set in the upper gear case did not overheat due to lack of lubrication, then a new bearing carrier and seal/bearing set should have cured your issue. The fact that the cone clutch failed is an indication that the clearances were not reset to factory spec after new carrier was installed. Bravo's are a pain to get right, but will run forever if engine alignment is maintained. W
  22. Merc specifies 950 minimum, but I do not have specs on Volvo. Your 650 is marginal, but I can't say for sure that it is causing your issue. A simple check with a digital volt meter will tell the story. You should not see the threshold voltage drop below 13.8 during cranking and you should see a jump to the high 14's after engine is running if the alternator is operating properly. I am not a fan of the dual purpose starting/deep cycle batteries and use Interstate 1000 cca marine battery for starting. If your error code issues are voltage related, then they will disappear as soon as you supply the ECM with adequate voltage. The errors will be stored in the ECM histogram but that is only for informational purposes. W
  23. What out drive do you have? If it's a Merc Alpha, then the raw water pump is in the drive, and engine should not be run during flushing with on board fitting. Although engine would get flushed, drive pump will get starved and fail. Tampa Bay you say... Mary and I are looking at real estate in Punta Gorda. W
  24. Gear set replacement is a function of careful inspection unless they were subject to sudden impact. If the clutch failure was caught soon enough before cone material got distributed throughout the drive housings, then there is no reason to replace gears as long as tooth wear is not apparent. Bearing would be a concern also if the lube oil has circulated metallic debris between the rollers and races. It's all about finite inspection and as long as specified stack clearance and back lash can be achieved and mating surfaces show no sign of excessive wear or galling, then you are good to go. W
  25. Mary and I are planing on going to the Baltimore show Jan 25 thru 28. I'm shooting for Friday.