Wingnut

No, but over time the driveshaft bellows will take a set and that practice will shorten it's life somewhat. The driveshaft u-joints, coupler, and gimbel bearing could care less. Trim cylinders will be under constant pressure but again, nut a huge deal. W

Easy test, switch the batteries 1 for two and 2 for one and see if the issue follows the battery. If not, then I'm thinking the isolator has a failed diode. A diode is nothing more than an electrical check valve which limits current flow to one direction. On a factory install, this unit allows charging both batteries at the same time with a single alternator, while keeping them electrically isolated, preventing a charged battery from bleeding into a dead one. W

You would think that the front set is lightly loaded when static allowing for adequate minimum tongue weight at speed, but keeps excess weight off the tow vehicle during braking. I've never seen this before. Be interesting to see how the tires wear as an indication of who's doing the work. I'd like to shoot the tires with an infra-red thermometer after a long tow, and compare the values. W

I have friends in Cape Coral, Punta Gorda, and another place in that area I can't think of. As of 4:00 today, no power, cable, internet. They have gas and running water, but very low water pressure. W

no clue. not my post.

The bushing is really an easy flip. Bring your drive down until the skeg is gently resting on a wood block. Take two 5/8" box wrenches and remove one of the nuts from the trim cylinder trailing end anchor pin, and when the pin has been removed, elevate both cylinder ends about 2" so that you can see the white eccentric bushing that will remain in the gear case. Take note of where the stainless steel spacer washers were located. Reach in and rotate the bushing 180 degrees, and then remove the wood block as you move the drive up and down by hand until the cylinder anchor pin can be reinstalled easily. A little silicone lube and another set of hands helps. Re-install the washers and nuts and you are good to go. If you have the square Smart Craft gauges, re-calibration is easy. Put the drive full down, and with the key on and engine off, hold down the enter button until the menu screen appears. Page through using the up button until the TRIM CALIBRATION screen appears, then select using enter. The screen will say is your drive full down? if it is select yes, then put the drive full up, and you will be asked if the drive is full up. Press yes and you are good to go. W

No metallurgist here, but history rules and not understanding the chemistry not withstanding, painting an aluminum out drive with copper and putting it in salt, or even slightly brackish water has pretty disastrous results. Ask any marina. A product such as Interlux Tri-lux 33 intended for aluminum boats works well. W

What bottom paint did you use? If it's copious copper oxide based, you need to get it off of there.

The "composite drives" were resin jacketed aluminum and weighted about the same as their all aluminum housing counterparts. Weak as heck, but weighed the same. W

Plus one on the coupler debris. As far as the cone clutch goes, drain the out drive oil and look for debris and filings. W

Bravo III's are solid hub props, so you can rule out a spun hub. Did you dive the drive to see if you picked up a floating trash bag or beach towel? If the lower unit is clear, then you may have failed a cone clutch or engine coupler. Did the engine RPM take off and did you bounce off the rev limiter? W

Low raw water pressure at idle it would seem. Failing sensor, or time for a raw water pump service to include new impeller and careful housing inspection. The constant alarm situation is a short list of possibilities, which do not include shift cables and linkage. That one is mechanical. W

That's "Perfect" oil pressure. Drive On, just keep the right oil in her and change it yearly at the end of the season, if you boat 100 hours or less yearly. W

What happened to "ignorance of the law is no excuse".

Why do you feel injectors are bad? W

Why would the gimbel not move in neutral?

MarinePartsPlus

Shoot some grease in the gimbel bearing zert fitting and see if the noise frequency changes.

The digital sender are better, just tell your boat yard to stay away from them with the power-washer. The 3 wire units are sealed better than the old two wire analog units.

As yours is a 2008 with Smartcraft, you have a retro-fit kit available if it's a Merc. The right hand sender puck (starboard side) gets replaced with a simple plastic cover and the two wire analog trim position sensor gets trashed. Then, the port side 3 wire digital trim limit/trim position sender gets replaced, and wires reconnected to the digital trim 3 wire harness located just above the transom plate inboard. The sender can be replaced without removing the out-drive but it takes some patience and a 1/4" drive universal and a 7/16" socket to get the wire harness retaining clamp on and off. Take your time and make sure the tapered harness sealing plug is nested properly into the transom plate or it will leak water into your ride. After installation, you do a trim calibration by following the prompts on the Smartcraft display. See Merc part number below. Just over 100 beans on Amazon. W Mercury OEM Trim Sender Sensor Assembly 863187A1 Smartcraft

Too far starboard is lined with sea grass as summer has been warm, early. It's all good as we will find a spot just remember deep water is the 2/3's to starboard, as the sand bar occupies the port side 1/3. There is a new Chap dealer in Galena and I will make a flyer for him to post. Also a mention on the Chap Facebook page, and if anyone has a connection to the dealer on South River, south of Annapolis, please reach out. Not looking for dealer sponsorship or participation, just informing their customer base. Looking forward to getting together once again as this thing of ours continues to grow. W

It's all about priorities. QUIT YOUR JOBS... Wow, do we have to tell you everything?