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Everything posted by Wingnut

  1. Not a lot of information about your ride to go on but poor engine alignment can set up a harmonic vibration, and I would think a missing IAC muffler on a Merc FI engine would drive a dog crazy. W
  2. Agree with Paul, as your drill pump won't get by the raw water pump impeller as it is a positive displacement design. If you remove the discharge hose from the raw water pump and connect your pump to the hose, then your drill pump will have no problem getting around the rigid impeller engine water circulating pump as that is a centrifugal design having a ton of internal clearance. It still won't get you by a cold, closed thermostat though. W
  3. As stated, I just do not have any real world experience with the high output 4 cycle out boards as there are just not that many of them in the overall market. My industry contacts only venture into arenas where they think there might be volume sales for lubricants as testing and certification process is time consuming. I would use the 5w-30 OEM oil as vetted alternatives are just not apparent at this juncture. I'm all about finding cost effective alternatives to OEM, which ultimately out perform the expensive "factory" oil, but I do so with eyes wide open. We packaged a bunch of private label oils in bottles that carried the OEM's logo and said factory approved, but the fact was they were typically re-brands of existing oils already in our product lines. Mark up was terrible, and you could buy the same thing from the same tank almost anywhere for a fraction of the cost. Some blend to order products did exist like GM Goodwrench, and Caterpillar but they were rare. In Europe, Mobil 1, 15w-50 was re-branded for Volvo synthetic marine, until they opted for something cheaper. In the US they offered a straight 30w synthetic, but had cam shaft follower failures on their 8.1's and quickly changed suppliers. We did not even bid that contract as US production for Mobil 1 was about maxed out at that time. Below is a list of current alternatives, and based solely on that list my gut says that Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w-30 would be superior to anything there but I would not put that in my new 250 until some evidence is compiled. W FC-W Registered Four-Stroke-Cycle Marine Oils.pdf
  4. And cooler too. Only 101 there today, in the shade of course.
  5. Anti Siphon is a real possibility, and is a cheap item. It is the last fitting on your fuel tank, and also acts as the hose barb for fuel line attachment. Simple spring loaded poppet valve that you can inspect by removing and peering into both ends. Use a 1/4" rod to gently push upon the ball. It should break away from it's internal seal and move easily. If it has debris between the seat and ball, the it can create your issue. Easy to check, east to fix, easy to test. Get back to us if you issue remains after servicing the valve. W
  6. There are a couple SeaLand systems that Chap uses. On your 276, the vacuum pump never sees waste. All it does is generate and maintain a heavy vacuum on the holding tank at all times. Your toilet ball valve holds the vacuum at one end, and a swing check valve in the pump out line ensures that the vacuum holds at the other end. As long as the vacuum pump valve holds then you have a sealed system which is constantly under full vacuum. I personally like this system as it keeps stored waste under a vacuum while in storage, resulting in no odors and no "bio-activity". The limitation to this system is flush-able distance, so the bigger Chaps use a diaphragm transfer pump and duck bill valves that transfer waster through a vacuum booster tank and into an atmospheric pressure storage tank which is vented overboard. Now back to your case. When you pump out your system, you must break the vacuum, as failing to do so will have the marina pump fighting your system vacuum. Turn you vacuum pump off, and block the toilet flush ball valve wide open. There is actually a little lever on your toilet that holds the valve open. This relieves the vacuum and also allows air to enter one end of your system while you are sucking on the other end. Good luck. W
  7. If it's a Merc, and the alarm does not sound upon turning the key to the on position, then check to see if the electronic gauges cycle when the key is turned on. If not, then you likely have a failed slave relay. On top of the engine, depending on model there can be up to 4 relays, all the same part number. One will be marked main, one fuel pump, one trim up and one trim down. Swap out the main with one of the trim relays, and if she then both cranks and fires, replace the relay. They are cheap. W
  8. Where is the "click" noise coming from? Merc has a solenoid on the starter itself, and another on mounted remotely. Both can cause your issue, but the remote one is a much easier fix. If the click is emanating from the starter area itself, and batteries are good, and all cable connections sound, then as others have said, it's time to go bilge diving. Not a fun repair, and removing the starboard side exhaust manifold will make it easier. Inspect the teeth on the ring gear while the starter is removed. If it turns out to be the starter mounted solenoid, then have the starter motor gone through, and the bendix (starter drive) replaced while the thing is on the bench. New armature bushing, brushes, a coat of paint, and you're good to go. W
  9. Stainless manifolds? You either buy a Mercriuser, or look at aftermarket from suppliers like Gil Marine, but Gil's are intended for go fast boats are are really not practical for your chap and they target big block GM. Volvo did make stainless riser replacements for some of their diesels, but I'm not aware of any for the 5.7. Now that we know you have a Volvo 5.7 used in salt water, it's likely you will need to replace some parts. I've replaced a set a few years ago and the new ones were OEM Volvo, but they were supplied by the owner so I can't speak to price and availability but he got them on E-Bay. The challenge for me with Volvo is to identify the right parts as they are notorious for using different pieces on the same size engine within a given model year. Make sure you get the model and serial number off of your engine ID plate before you go shopping. Once you find the right part numbers, then perhaps even e-bay can help you out. New bolts with some never-seize on the threads will help in the re-installation process. W
  10. Some of the real estate deals there look almost too good to be true so we are moving slowly. Our place here on the upper Chesapeake is 6 bedrooms and 5,800 square feet with a 1,700 sq ft out building, all situated on a 4 mile dead end road so selling it won't happen over night. W
  11. +1 on the Harden pump. Uses the OEM impeller, and has beefier shaft and bearings, and replaceable end plates in case they get grooved from sand ingestion. Order it with the pulley for an easy up-grade. W
  12. Surveyors will look at age, and at times do not take into account where the boat is used and what material the risers are made from. My 2008 Merc has stainless steel dry joint risers and the upper Chesapeake is fresh water and both my manifolds and risers check as new. I would pull the old ones off during the off season and do a comprehensive inspection before I would buy new parts. You may be back to 100% with just some new gaskets and a coat of paint. In any event it cost nothing to find out. W
  13. Extended warranties come in different flavors. Ones offered by the OEM of the power plant are best, but look beyond duration and see what it actually covers. Other coverage can come from a third party and they tend to offer very limited coverage and a ton of fine print. Chap can also step up and become the actual underwriter, but the rules remain the same. What's the duration, what does it cover, what is excluded, and what is the deductible if any. In the end these are insurance policies which pick up where the factory warranty ends and are purchased coverage. As with all policies you get what you pay for and in your case, you get what "they" were willing to pay for. W
  14. IMHO Yamaha has not put much thought into their 4 cycle oil. What they offer is pretty generic and will do the job, but they charge a ton of money for an average lube oil. I have been using Mobil One 15w-50 in their 150's and 90's as friends here have both, but really never had a 250 in "our fleet" but I'm sure there are superior alternatives to the OEM oil as it is pretty rudimentary. I'll post again if I hear anything promising. W
  15. 5000 RPM is the sweet spot on an 8.1 as far as max speed goes so it sounds like she is propped right. If we assume that you have experimented with trim, keeping the bow as light as possible without loosing forward thrust, then it is what it is. Bottom paint and marine growth can make a big difference so as others have asked, is she clean. Last is weight of gear and passengers aboard, and if she's kept in a slip, has the hull taken on moisture? You can't really twist a stock 496 tighter than 5 grand so I'd say you are getting everything from your ride she has to offer. Did you do your speed test in both directions on the same day to compensate for wind and current? I don't think altitude had anything to do with it, and if she could achieve 5,000, then air density was decent as the thing was making close to rated horsepower. My Merc is an HO so my numbers won't do you much good. W
  16. The fog cocktail will not "smoke" as the old oil down the carb used to as the oil concentration is just not that high. At idle, your engine sips so it will take a while for the cocktail to actually get to the injectors. Fuel filter, low pressure fuel pump, high pressure fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and fuel rail all need to have their volume displaced before the engine begins to eat the witches brew. On a cool fuel system like mine, it takes about 20 minutes and I know when it begins to happen as idle quality degrades, and I pick up an odor in the exhaust. By that time, my 1 gallon protable tank is almost empty. The "smoke" is more steam than anything else. I'm running on muffs this whole time, and then I shut her down and drain the raw water side of my cooling system. I change the engine and drive oil at this point as they are warm and ready. I then run her for about 20 seconds which allows the RV/Marine antifreeze to be sucked into the system through the muffs, from my elevated 5 gallon bucket, and I shut her down after about 4 gallons disappears. I now have re-established oil pressure and the new drive oil got circulated a bit. I understand how you do yours and 120 degree water is not an issue for your raw water system but as others have said, I'd drain her before I introduced your RV/Marine non-toxic antifreeze as it keeps the concentration of inhibitors and freeze protection higher. Most of your heat build is not from the cooling system water jackets themselves, but is from exhaust gasses mixing with the discharge water so the antifreeze heats up quickly. Your procedure does however mix by-products of combustion with the antifreeze that you will leave in the system all winter and some level of acid will form. W
  17. I saw $60 for parking and that exceeded my budget. Ha... We are actually looking at Punta Gorda real estate so twin outboards and a covered hydra-hoist might be in my future. W
  18. HIS insurance should cover this. Document everything with pictures, and contact his company. W
  19. Is there a check valve between the injection point tee and the transom plate in the raw water pump suction line? W
  20. All engines experience reversion during periods of heavy deceleration, whereas the exhaust pulse reverses direction causing a momentary vacuum in the manifolds. It's worse in a marine engine as the cooling water mixes with exhaust gas just down stream of the riser and this quench exacerbates the momentary vacuum. Merc uses flappers, and they help some, but need to be maintained as that are simple metal plates jacketed in rubber, and they live in a pretty harsh environment. Volvo deleted them on newer models, and had some issues until they redesigned their risers. Still happens on a very hot engine that gets snatched from high speed back to idle. Best case is to learn to back her down more slowly, and allow her to idle for several seconds before shutdown. Easier on the engine too as it avoids a severe post shutdown heat soak, but it's sometime hard to pull off if an owner has just went aground as the tendency is to get her back to neutral in a big hurry. In your case I'd check to see what risers you actually have, and if they are first generation, you may want to look to alternatives when its time for them to be changed out. Merc is using dry joint cast stainless units on their newer engines which work fairly well, but I am not familiar with the current Volvo offerings. W
  21. Sure sounds like a restriction prevented the raw water from exiting the engine. The raw water pump is positive displacement and can build quite a bit of pressure, but it does not under normal conditions as the discharge side restrictions are minimal. Blowing off a hose could be an indication that you sucked up some sand and packed off an internal passage causing the water to back up through the risers and into the cylinders. Start pulling hoses and look for debris. W
  22. The solution to pollution is dilution. Ha... Yes, dump the remainder back into the main tank, but I would dispose of the stuff that is years old. I made a one gallon fog mixture tank which is enough to do a single engine filling the cool fuel module, fuel pumps, pressure regulator, fuel rails, injectors, and coating engine cylinder internals. You will know when the mix gets to the cylinders as exhaust note will change. Change the fuel filter in the spring after the first time out as all fog mixture will be displaced by then. I run the thing on muffs for about 25 minutes, and by then the gallon is almost empty, the oils are hot and then I change out engine oil and drive lube. Drain the raw water system, hook up anti-freeze to the muff inlet and run her long enough to re-establish oil pressure, and suck in a few gallons of pink stuff., about 15 to 20 seconds total. Sleep easy Mr. Engine, I'll see you in the spring. I run off the remaining cup full of fog mix in my welding machine as I suck my boat tank completely dry at seasons end, but that's likely over-kill. Costs me nothing as I just fill my street vehicles. 100% fresh gas in the spring. W
  23. No, that kit only addresses a failed cylinder piston seal, and has no association with the control valve that sends fluid to and from it. Sorry. W
  24. Yea, that unit is serviced as an assembly. 500 retail, 400 e-bay. Sorry. W
  25. A steady alarm signal is reserved for critical alarms, such as drive lube oil level, oil pressure, and over-heat conditions of either engine coolant or exhaust manifold internal temperatures which do not show up on your dash display, and all need to be investigated. The first thing I would do as a new owner is to acquire the OEM Mercriuser manuals for your ride to include the drive, engine, and ECM master manuals. Even while under warranty, an educated consumer can not only get to the route of an issue faster, they can avoid being subject to "credit card manipulation". W