Wingnut

Lay on your stomach with your head looking down into the void space atop the driveshaft and with a flashlight you will be able to gaze inside of the bellows. They are big enough to hold quite a bit of lube before they "fill-up" and start to displace material into the bilge, indicating an input shaft seal leak and likely a failing bearing set. There are four seal sets in an out drive as the upper and lower gear case are independent of each other, but only the input shaft seal and lube bottle transfer hose and fittings will put oil in the bilge. The others will put oil on the water. If you had a dealer change the gear oil, perhaps they filled it with the drive in the full up position and you have been dealing with a massive air bubble. One thing I've learned is the dealers don't put their best techs on routine service work. After school high school kids down here. W

You have two issues as one is with the Chaparral installed ships system, and the other is with your power package. The TPS is the throttle position sensor and the engines ECM is seeing an e;electrical fault there. What I do not understand is why it shows TPS-2 as that is an indication that the failure is with the TPS on the #2 engine, and you don't have one. You did not say if you are Merc or Volvo but on Merc Smartcraft their baseline software is configured to look at both engines, but the configuration must be selected for twins. The TPS is an easy replace as it's mounted to the throttle body but the fault should read TPS 1. As far as the ACC issue, your rocker switches are fed from a single buss bar that will feed an entire gang. Get behind the dash and check for power to the bar that is common to your dead switches. That feed wire runs back to the battery. Also be sure to check the common ground cable to be sure it's connected to the battery, as there are multiple cables that need to be landed, one for the engine, and usually a pair for ships systems. Reds are hot, and yellows are ground/negative. Maybe the previous owner installed the batteries this season and missed a cable. W

The only way the ECM sets an injector warning is if it looses proper electrical feedback from a subject injector. If they fail mechanically from a blockage or are sticking, engine performance will suffer but no alarm will set. Either one or more of your injectors is failing or there is a fault in your wiring harness between the ECM and the individual injectors. I'd start there by unplugging each injector at the fuel rail, and carefully inspecting the plugs for corrosion. The scan tool your dealer has includes a patch cable and software that allows for individual injector testing, so don't be tempted to replace the entire set as they are expensive and seldom fail. W

A failed gimbal bearing can be hard to detect, as they feel fine but a new one solves the issue. Engine alignment is as much an art as it is a science, as alignment must be checked at different points in the rotation and clearance is "averaged" from there. Not all techs take the time. Engine coupler and upper gear case input shaft bearings are another area of concern too but a bearing failure usually is accompanied by a seal leak. W

Chances are your housing has sand scratches. An impeller will wear in if the pump ingests sand. The rubber will form to the deep gouges over time and continue to pump some. Slip in a new impeller, and the firm straight rubber will bridge the gouges and will not self prime. These pumps are a positive displacement design and need to pump air for a few seconds in order to adequately wet the suction network, prime fully, and pump to capacity. W

Look at the attached table and concentrate on items marked 2 beeps per minute. W Warning Chart The engine warning system incorporates an audio alarm and, if installed, Smartcraft Gauges System. When the key switch is turned to the ON position, the audio alarm will momentarily activate to test thewarning system. The alarm should sound once if the system is operable. This table is a guick guide, showingwhat warning output will accompany a fault. Fault Smartcraft Gauges Audio Alarm Available Power Description ECT CKT HI Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open ECT CKT LO Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Short ECT Coolant Overheat Yes Constant 6 - 100 % Overheat condition EST 1 Open 1 Yes 2 Bp/min 100% Coil harness wire open EST 1 Short 1 Yes 2 Bp/min 100% Coil harness wire short Fuel Injector 1-7-4-6 Open Yes 2 Bp/min 100% Fuel injector wire open Fuel Injector 3-5-2-8 Open Yes 2 Bp/min 100% Fuel injector wire open Guardian Strategy Yes Constant 0% - 100% Protection Strategy IAC Output LO/HI 2 Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open Knock Sensor 1 Lo Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open Knock Sensor 1 Hi Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Short Low Drive Lube Strategy Yes Constant 100% Low oil in sterndrive Low Oil Pressure Strategy Yes Constant 0 - 100% Low oil pressure strategy NOTE: If any 5v sensor becomes shorted to ground the engine will not start. If the engine is operating when the short occurs the engine may stop operating and will not start. NOTE: 1 GM EFI ignition system failure open or shorted, driver will flag EST 1 fault. NOTE: 2 TPS must see 5% throttle then back to 0% to flag IAC fault. NOTE: 3 2-wire sensor open will read sensor Hi on scan tool. NOTE: 4VDC PWR Low - if shorted or no voltage engine will not start; if VDC PWR voltage falls velow 22 volts will set sensor faults. NOTE: 5 Shift Switch - will activate code when engine rpm are above 3500 rpm and 40% load. GENERAL INFORMATION SERVICE MANUAL NUMBER 36 Page 1A-26 90-864573 FEBRUARY 2002 Warning Chart (continued) Fault Smartcraft Gauges Audio Alarm Available Power Description Main Power Relay Output Yes No N/A Engine will not start Main Power Relay Backfeed Yes No N/A Engine will not start MAP Sensor 1 Input High Yes 2 Bp/min 90% High voltage or short MAP Sensor 1 Input Low Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open, no visual on SC1000 Oil PSI CKT Hi Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open, defaults to 50.7 psi Oil PSI CKT Lo Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Short, defaults to 50.7 psi Overspeed Yes Constant rpm limit Engine over rpm limit Pitot CKT Hi No 100% Short or high voltage Pitot CKT Lo No 100% Open Sea Pump PSI Lo Yes Constant 6-100% GuardStrat Sea Pump CKT Hi Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open - 0 psi reading Sea Pump CKT Lo Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Voltage high or short Sea Water Temp No N/A Defaults to --31 degreesC Fuel Level #1 No N/A Only if turned on STB EMCT CKT Hi N/A N/A N/A N/A STB EMCT CKT Lo N/A N/A N/A N/A STB EMCT CKT Overheat N/A N/A N/A N/A NOTE: If any 5v sensor becomes shorted to ground the engine will not start. If the engine is operating when the short occurs the engine may stop operating and will not start. NOTE: 1 GM EFI ignition system failure open or shorted, driver will flag EST 1 fault. NOTE: 2 TPS must see 5% throttle then back to 0% to flag IAC fault. NOTE: 3 2-wire sensor open will read sensor Hi on scan tool. NOTE: 4VDC PWR Low - if shorted or no voltage engine will not start; if VDC PWR voltage falls velow 22 volts will set sensor faults. NOTE: 5 Shift Switch - will activate code when engine rpm are above 3500 rpm and 40% load. SERVICE MANUAL NUMBER 36 GENERAL INFORMATION 90-864573 FEBRUARY 2002 Page 1A-27 Warning Chart (continued) Fault Smartcraft Gauges Audio Alarm Available Power Description Steer CKT Hi No 100% Short or high voltage Steer CKT Lo No 100% Open TPS1 CKT or Range Hi Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Short or high voltage TPS1 CKT or Range Lo Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open or low voltage Trim CKT or Range Hi Yes No 100% Open or high voltage Trim CKT or Range Lo Yes No 100% Short 5 VDC PWR Low 4 Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Short or low - engine may not start MAT Sensor Hi Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open -default to --32 degrees F MAT Sensor Lo Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Short -default to --32 degrees F Shift Switch 5 Yes 2 Bp/min 90% Open Circuit NOTE: If any 5v sensor becomes shorted to ground the engine will not start. If the engine is operating when the short occurs the engine may stop operating and will not start. NOTE: 1 GM EFI ignition system failure open or shorted, driver will flag EST 1 fault. NOTE: 2 TPS must see 5% throttle then back to 0% to flag IAC fault. NOTE: 3 2-wire sensor open will read sensor Hi on scan tool. NOTE: 4VDC PWR Low - if shorted or no voltage engine will not start; if VDC PWR voltage falls velow 22 volts will set sensor faults. NOTE: 5 Shift Switch - will activate code when engine rpm are above 3500 rpm and 40% load.

Went the big Sea Ray route, purchased new in 1988 and kept her for 10 years. Twins were nice and it was our second home. Now I'm able to live where I boat so a garage kept day boat makes sense and the 256 SSX is a perfect ride for the Upper Chesapeake. Time to find her a new owner, as my next ride looks to be a true off-shore like the Cobia 277 CC or Southport 27 FE. W

One thing I've learned with my limited dealings with Volvo is that within a given model year, they source components from just about everywhere which results in many different part numbers within a given HP in a given year. One member here and I went through 3 water pumps in order to find the right one and they were all listed for his engine. I had a friends Formula with an 8.1 and a smoked ECM. Rare failure, but I found Volvo used 5 different models that year, from 3 different suppliers. Yikes. Sorry they don't make a rebuild kit for yours. I guess the good news is that the Volvo pumps hang in there fairly well in most cases and impellers are easy to change. Merc impellers will live a bit longer as they use a bigger, belt driven pump and turn it slower. The pump bearings do have induced side strain into the bearing set though, and the impellers can be a pain to change depending on which boat they are shoe-horned into. Your pump only see's the twisting moment but does turn at crankshaft speed. I'm contemplating a relocation to Florida so twin outboards look to be in my future. Whole new world. Ha... W

Was your extended warranty underwritten by the OEM, or a third party? Sounds like you had an internal seal failure initially that allowed some sea water to enter the sealed bearing cavity. Over time the bearing failed, causing shaft misalignment and resulting in air leakage and the pumps inability to self prime. Not sure Volvo would have replaced the entire pump under warranty as I believe there is a shaft, bearing, seal kit available. W

Normal draw even with the battery switch in the off position is ECM and radio memory and Mercathode system if so equipped. Bilge pump and trim/tilt system will also have power, but if they are working properly then no draw there. I did not like the discharge rate I was seeing in storage from my Mercathode system, so I put it's feed on the service side of the battery switch as my boat is a trailer queen and I only need that system live when she's in the water. As it sounds like your issue is with the battery switch in the on position, you must connect an amp meter, then systematically disconnect each individual system until the draw clears, then address that problem.. It's always a good idea to put the switch in the off position for long term storage just in case a relay has stuck in the on position which could eventually lead to a failure or even an onboard fire, and even mice love to chew on cables. A stuck fuel pump relay could keep the pumps running and you might not even hear them, but the end result of a dead-headed fuel pump running for several days may not be a good thing. Check your engine compartment lights too. W

My neighbor here lived on Stoney Creek for decades, and has kept his place there for weekend getaways. Up beyond the bridge where it narrows, there is a small community beach on the left, and his place is about 4 doors downstream from there. Nice view, and great dock. W

+1 on the second blower. Very common.

All the exhaust exiting the engine must be quenched with water at the point where it exits the exhaust elbows. This is accomplished by mixing with the raw sea water stream after that water has visited the engine water jackets. Likely you have a blockage in the manifold and/or riser on that side. Find the manifold inlet hose and remove it, then start the engine (in a cold state) for a few short seconds and confirm water feed to the manifold. If it seems normal, then remove the manifold and riser and start a comprehensive internal inspection. These are wear items and on a 1990 raw water cooled engine, you may find rust and sediment has blocked off water flow. Also, if you have cooked the exhaust hoses, you almost certainly have smoked the exhaust flapper valves located in the exhaust Y-pipe. If the flapper is not in it's normal location, then find it as the rubber hinged valve is made from stainless steel and it will restrict your exhaust flow exiting the transom plate if it has fallen into the abyss. W

Water cooled condensers are much more efficient. Quieter too. W

It's all about volume and if the majors can make money on a blend to order product. That's why we got out of marine oils on the consumer side as the certification process costs more than the products were worth to us. We are making the Volvo gear oil as a blend to order, but can get a good price for it wholesale. We do make marine oils on the commercial side and target the high volume marine diesel market. 55 gallon drums rather than 1 quart bottles just makes better business sense. DTE 797 is a turbine oil we sell. MobilRad 797 is the exact same product/formulation that we sell to the nuclear industry that commands a 40% premium because of all of the secondary certifications required by the regulatory agencies. 0w-30 is an odd-ball and likely not worth the effort for Mobil, as they are maxed out on their Mobil 1 production lines anyway. The major engine builders have really tightened up their tolerances of late allowing for lighter viscosity oils. The 0w's really cut down on frictional losses from drag, but the film needs to hang in there. I talked with Cris MCGaha's engine builder and uncle at the Las Vegas NHRA event and he showed me the oil they were running. The stuff poured like tea. Sounds like you have your answer and I'm sure Volvo has some obscure reason for their spec. I remember when the Ford Pinto specified the first 10w-30 for their 4 cylinder. The 10-40 did a better job once it got there, but the oiling system was so poor on those engines that they needed a 10w-30 as it arrived on scene sooner than the 10w-40 in cold weather start-up situations and saved camshaft lobes. Funny how the industry evolves and adapts to fix a poor engine design. W

Mobil 1 comes in different flavors. Extended performance Mobil 1 is derived from a PAO ester, and generic Mobil 1 is a severely hydrogenated conventional base stock which the industry has accepted as being synthesized. The purest at Mobil don't agree with that distinction but when the lawyers got involved it became the new industry standard. Call Mobil's tech support line and they will dial you in or visit the website below and punch in your vehicle data. Mobil made the base stock for Castrol and I think they still do. We actually blended and packaged their products at our Bayone NJ lube plant for years, but closed that facility when the contract was over as it was a loosing proposition. Mobil Link Below... W https://mobiloil.com/en/product-selector

Good Morning Pops, Have you used the Spectrumcolor product? I'm on repair #8 with their paste and 2 majors with spray application and their liquid gelcoat and the color match was perfect every time. Several Sea Rays, Formulas, a Chaparral, Baha, and a Tidewater. Initially the match does not look quite right, but after it cures fully, friends could not tell me where the repair was. Pot life gives you plenty of work time, but I do let each coat dry overnight before wet sanding with 320, 600, 1500, and 2,000 grit. Very little buffing required and sanding always done with a rubber block. A few of the repairs are going on 5 years now and still look perfect. W

I bought a USB camera on line for 20 bucks, and it comes with software which allows me to view and even record video in color. It has a 15' cord, is moisture proof, and smaller in diameter than a pencil. It has a fixed focal length of around 12", but they do have ones that can be focused from the lap top keyboard. Can't tell you how many times I've used it. Oil leaks, engine combustion chamber inspection, and even within walls of a house. It has it's own internal light so you can push it into a black hole. Cell phone photo works too if your arm is long enough. As far as the flakes go, think of it as thick, hard paint. If it flakes off clean, and the cracks you see go no deeper than the coating itself, the it's a coating failure. If the cracks are in the substrate and seem to emanate outward from there, then that is likely where they began. Impregnated wood stringers can be characterized as moisture resistant, not waterproof so if you discover that the cracks go deep, beyond the surface layer, you will need to grind until the cracks are gone to see what type repair you are looking at. Cant tell much from your photo, but I will say that surface cracks in the bilge coating are common and relatively harmless if addressed. W

I've welded several, but it is hard to get the metal clean enough. Heat distortion is a big issue too as final alignment of the output shaft bearing carrier is critical to achieve proper drive gear backlash. You must pull the gear set out as preheat is necessary to drive out contamination, just be sure to use heat stop or a similar product the help hold the heat away from the actual gear case cavity. I blow air through the housing too to help carry away excessive heat. The primary purpose of the skeg is for prop impact protection. It helps a bit with low speed steering wander, but likely you will not notice much difference after the repair. If it were me, I'd shape whats left with a grinder, smooth out the edges, prep, paint, and forget. W

DIY Information available on this website. Order their gel coat repair paste as it's made to handle small work like your repair. W Call 800-754-5516 or visit our website at www.spectrumcolor.com 1410 37th Street NW Suite F Auburn, WA 98001

I had issues with several factory installations seeing exactly what you described. Talked with Annapolis Cruise Air years ago, and they indicated that the installation should include a hose loop in the pump suction. Sounded counter intuitive to me but I tried it and the priming issue went away. A quick look at recommend installation procedures on line shows the loop by a few vendors, but I only see it factory installed on about 30% of the boats I see. There is also a positive displacement alternative pump available that will self prime and does not have to be flooded suction, but it also has a rubber impeller that has to be changed similar to our raw water engine pumps. See these on tight installations which require the pump to be mounted above the waterline. W

The timing cover can be serviced without messing with the oil pan but there are a few tricks that need to be utilized. First of all, don't touch the pan bolts. The less movement there the better. Remove the water pump, and harmonic balancer (you will need a puller), then all the timing cover bolts. Carefully pry at the top of the cover until you are far enough out to clear the dowel pins (2) on the lower half of the cover, then slowly lift the cover upward until it parts from the front oil pan rail gasket. Be sure the rim gasket stays with the pan as it is part of the one piece pan gasket. On the inside of the timing cover there is the gasket lip which has small wings at either end. Carefully trim off the tip of these wings and test fit the trimmed cover back into position. It will become obvious as to how much material needs to be removed and at what angle to allow reassembly, and the trick is just enough, not too much so trim a little, test fit a lot. When the lip will clear then change out the balancer hub seal, and apply some adhesive spray to your new gasket and stick it to a clean block surface. Use Brake-Clean or a similar product to assure the sealants hold as designed. Next, apply a THIN application of RTV silicone (Permatex Ultra Black) to the old pan gasket with a blob at both ends. Allow the RTV to cure for 30 minutes before proceeding. Failure to wait will likely result in seal migration during assembly. Next, and this is the critical part, position the cover about 1/2" away from the block at the bottom, and 2" at the top. Find two thin drift pins that will fit in the cover bolt holes. Small center punches work well as they won't bend. Slide the pins through the cover holes one space above the block dowel pin holes, and then slip the cover bottom center into contact with the oil pan gasket. Put the tip of your center punches into their corresponding block holes and pry down compressing the front pan gasket as you push the cover in until your cover is squarely nested on the block dowels. Install the bolts and game over. The only question I have is are you sure the leak is the cover gasket and not the fuel pump or balancer seal? Easier fixes there. W

If the strainer is clean, and the pump has 115 VAC at it's plug in terminal, then it should be pumping. If not, the next step is to remover the pump discharge hose and hook up a garden hose to it and see if you can flush water through the condenser coil and over the side with the pump disconnected. W

If the strainer is clogged, or the cooling water pump has failed, the compressor will go out on HPF shutdown within a few seconds after starting, hence no cold air. Look for water going over the side after start-up. Should have a good stream running and it should feel about 30 degrees warmer than the sea water. W

Fresh water pump starts on it's own upon a drop in discharge pressure due to a faucet being opened or toilet being flushed. When the demand goes away due to closing the fixture, the pump continues to run until it reaches it limit switch set pressure, then the pump shuts itself off. The switch is in the base of the pump. W