Shepherd

Could try unplugging the shift anticipation mode quick-connect fitting. Can bump the idle RPM up by 50 RPM or so; found it often helps in some situations. I'll see if I can't find some pictures to show what I mean.

Don't know why you had the running problem. All I can say is try it again, and see if you get it to happen again. As for the engine dying while shifting, sounds like the rear shift cable needs to adjusted slightly. Shift cut-out engages when shifting out of gear into neutral - sounds like it's hanging up just a little bit.

Needs 350 Mag / 5.7L Gi power or greater. If MerCruiser powered, works best with Bravo 3 XR props, or at least cupped standard Bravo 3 props - the L version vs. the standard 3/3 and 4/3 Elite series, due to the boat's hull pad.

Just to verify, audio alarm beeps once when you turn the key to the 'on' position, but doesn't come on when the engine is stumbling? One other thing to look at is the engine harness cannon plug on top of the engine. All the dash wiring for the key switch, instruments, etc. go through this. Lots of times the male terminals on the cannon plug connection get squeezed together, giving you weird running symptoms. Loosen and slid the gear clamp from the cannon plug, then gently pull the cannon plug apart. Once this is done, with a small flat screwdriver, spread the male terminals above apart so that they provide a more positive connection in the female section. Re-connect the cannon plug back together again, and take care to not overtighten the gear clamp. Just snug it up. Later/current MerCruiser models use a different cannon plug which has proven to be very robust.

Only made for models with cat equipped engines. On H20 models with a non-catalyst equipped engine, the wires are not connected to the warning light, even with a 4.3L MPI. All the OBD warning light is tell a person, 'Hey, you've got a problem with your emission control, such as a burned out cat...' $$$$

Try MerCruiser part # 87-892150K02 or Q02. New style ignition sensor that goes under the rotor in the distributor. Came out in 2005 or so, and is a superior piece vs. the older stye ignition sensors. No one has messed with the timing by chance? That engine takes a special timing procedure to get it into (and out of) base timing mode. One other thing to look at is verifying the actual MPH the boat gets with a GPS or smart phone, etc. That boat should get right around 47 MPH with that engine for your elevation. One other thing to look at is the spark plug wires. Verify whether they're each on the correct spark plugs. NOTE: on your cap, you will notice numbers in a large font, and numbers in a small font. Ignore the small font numbers; only pay attention to the large numbers and where their wires go for each cylinder. NOTE: if you ever need the engine serial number, you'll find a plate just above the starter motor. Probably start with an '0M......'

A small thing. but you could spice up the rear sides with new Chaparral lettering vs. the vinyl stickers currently on there. I put the new style H20 version on my older Chaparral after I compounded, polished, and waxed my badly faded gelcoat. H20 lettering comes with the bird head, and takes up about the same space as currently used. Chrome over plastic, peel and stick. http://www.cecilmarineonline.com/servlet/the-4008/LOGO--dsh--CHAPARRAL-WITH/Detail As for decals, for that size of boat and area of coloured gelcoat, I have used several Chaparral decals to good effect - at least in my opinion. 1st. option. Install the checkered flag style off a 2005ish Chaparral 256 SSi. If you wanted something with a little more edge, you could look at installing say a 2012 style Xtreme decal kit. Not cheap though.

244 Xtreme is a very nice boat. I recommend getting the arch vs. the tower though. Better looking, and no metal tubes in your forward sight lines. 246 SSi WT is a boat that is more favourable to moving large numbers of passengers. I personally prefer the 244 Sunesta/Xtreme layout to the 246 SSi WT, but I would like the 246 SSi WT bow instead of the 244's beak... Myself, I would take a regular 244 Sunesta WT with the optional arch and get Lenco trim tabs with the optional LED position indicator installed. Perfect Pass could be installed if wanted as well, and you'd still be money ahead. I do HIGHLY recommend the Premium Package, Convenience Package, along with the Premium bucket seats. Ride between the 2 boats is a tie. On either boat with MerCruiser Bravo 3 power, they work a lot better with Bravo 3 XR props; say 23" pitch with a 2.20 gear ratio. Superior hole shot, mid range, fuel economy, same top speed, and much improved cornering grip. (due to the hull pad these model have) You're shopping the right brand at least for fibreglass I/O. Pontoons...I'm not a pontoon guy, but they do have their purpose.

Do you have the audio alarm beep at you when you turn the key to the 'on' position from the 'off' position? If so, and you don't get the audio to sound when the engine stumbles, then I would say the problem is mechanical in nature. i.e. distributor cap fouled, weak fuel pump, faulty fuel pressure regulator, water in fuel/spent fuel, etc. By mechanical in nature, I mean the EFI system doesn't know what the fuel pressure is, or if a distributor cap is fouled, etc. All the ECM knows is that the engine is not running properly, and it tries it's level best to keep the engine running. To this end, I would do the following jobs that are DIY for an adequately handy person: Remove the distributor cap and look for signs of corrosion/fouling. Install a new cap and rotor kit if suspect. Most likely you have the current flat style HVS distributor. Will need a Torx T20 for the cap, and a T15 for the rotor. Have seen this style of cap give running problems on cylinders 3, 5, & 7. MerCruiser 5.0L MPI, 350 Mag MPI, and 6.2L MX with serial # OM320590 and higher use the HVS flat style distributor. HVS style flat V8 small block distributor cap & rotor MerCruiser part # 8M0061335 NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs: ITR4A15 http://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serial/5.0L_MPI_ALPHA-BRAVO/884712/7585-40 If this doesn't help, try running the engine on an outboard tank. If it suddenly starts to run better, than I would say you have problems with the fuel supply, such as a clogged anti-siphon valve, etc. NOTE: even a 6 gallon fuel tank won't take you very far while testing. Previous MerCruiser Thunderbolt style distributor used in most earlier engines. 1999-2001 5.0L MerCruiser EFI http://www.marinepar...9500+99/4856-80

They will if you use aluminum anodes on the St. Lawrence, but then again, you won't get the best protection either. I boat on Charleston Lake northeast of Gananoque, and while the water is a lot cleaner than the mighty St. Lawrence River, I might get 3 years for the magnesium anodes with the boat in the water from July 1st to Labour Day. (no power at the dock, but running ss Enertia prop and Lenco tabs)

That's a heavy and deep boat, that runs very run given its size. Same as the 2330 SS, so owners of those models woud be able to give you real world numbers. I would think 48 MPH or so. Should see 4400-4800 RPM at wide open throttle at least for that era. If you're looking to buy this boat, then I recommend checking the following: 1. Install an aftermarket extended swim platform. Will completely cover the drive, and getting on and off the boat MUCH easier and safer. Figure 4 hours labour to install. 2. Have the transom bellows and gimbal ring checked for signs of wear. Big money if they need to be replaced. 3. Find out when the impeller was changed out last. Part # 46-807151A14 is the body/impeller kit needed. Lasts maybe 3 years. Might be a real ba$tard to replace on your engine. 4. Have a tune-up performed on the engine. If the engine has the MerCruiser style of distributor (Thunderbolt) than I highly recommend installing a new ignition sensor under the rotor with 87-892150K02 or Q02. New style came out around 2005, and has proven to be very robust. 805759T3 or Q3 is the cap & rotor kit. NGK BRP6EFS spark plugs.

Put on kit # 888755Q03 this fall. Magnesium vs. aluminum anodes for superior protection, but you'll most likely only get 2 seasons at best.

Sounds like you're engine is down a cylinder, or the hull bottom is extremely dirty. Is your engine fuel injected (5.0L MPI) or carb'd? 5.0L Irregardless, you want to have the boat looked at. If fuel injected, I would start with the distributor cap and rotor, and then change out the spark plugs. If you're looking to install a new cap and rotor for a MY 2003 5.0L carb'd engine, MerCruiser part # 805759T3 or Quicksilver part # 805759Q3 is the cap & rotor kit. Biggest problem with that ignition was the ignition sensor* under the rotor. Cause the engine either not to start, or to run rough. (engine won't start being the more common in our experience) New MerCruiser sensor design part # 87-892150K02 or Quicksilver part # 87-892150Q02 came out around 2005, and is much more reliable and robust. Thunderbolt ignition came out around '87, and is still used today on MerCruiser V6 and small block V8 carb'd engines. 8 of NGK BPR6EFS spark plugs. MerCruiser 5.0L MPI If you have a MerCruiser 5.0L MPI fuel injected engine, cap & rotor kit for HVS type (flat V8 cap style) MerCruiser part # 8M0061335. Have seen issues with AC-Delco spark plugs - I hate them. I highly recommend NGK Laser Iridium ITR4A15 spark plugs for the MPI version. Delco HVS type distributor (flat cap style) Doesn't show 8M0061335 in the link below, but probably the cheapest way to get both the cap and rotor. If you see black paint overspray on your cap, it's original, which I hope is not the case. Original style caps had aluminum terminals vs. brass, which was a terrible idea regarding longevity. http://www.marinepar.../884717/8093-50 On the HVS style cap and rotor, you'll need both a Torx T20 and T15 driver. On the cap hold-down Torx screws, loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten, then loosen all the way to help avoid wrecking the cheap POS plastic distributor. Cheap design, not cheap to replace if you break the 'ears' off that hold the distributor cap hold-down screws. Try not to lose the screws down into the bilge either. When replacing the cap, please just do one wire at a time from the old distributor cap to the new cap. If a tune-up doesn't work, than I would clean the hull. If that doesn't work, and you have the MPI engine, I think I would then perform a compression test. If you have suffered a cap failure, 2 cylinders (3 & 5, or 5 & 7) may not have fired properly, resulting in those cylinders being washed out with raw fuel. At idle, the engine would appear to run properly, but have an odd exhaust note that you may not be able to hear. I urge you to get the boat looked at in short order.