Shepherd
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Like some expert opinion on a boat I have been looking at for a while. 2013 206SSI. Had some issues getting to WOT, and was starting to back fire. Seemed to be fuel pump related/starving for fuel, but they are saying they found the issue. Either pick up or fuel filter. Both replaced and they have not had an issue.
When I drove it , I would get to WOT and would not sustain (but they are saying fixed now) Even at WOT could not push past 38MPH on GPS. Not sure of the prop pitch, they think 17, but are getting back to me. Does have a great hole shot. What should I expect as a top end on this boat at WOT?
I have an older (1996) 1830SS with a 4 cylinder 19 pitch prop and by myself push it over 40 at WOT.
I am not concerned about driving 50mph at WOT all the time, just need to know to make sure I know what to expect with this boat and if worth getting.
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Like some expert opinion on a boat I have been looking at for a while. 2013 206SSI. Had some issues getting to WOT, and was starting to back fire. Seemed to be fuel pump related/starving for fuel, but they are saying they found the issue. Either pick up or fuel filter. Both replaced and they have not had an issue.
When I drove it , I would get to WOT and would not sustain (but they are saying fixed now) Even at WOT could not push past 38MPH on GPS. Not sure of the prop pitch, they think 17, but are getting back to me. Does have a great hole shot. What should I expect as a top end on this boat at WOT?
I have an older (1996) 1830SS with a 4 cylinder 19 pitch prop and by myself push it over 40 at WOT.
I am not concerned about driving 50mph at WOT all the time, just need to know to make sure I know what to expect with this boat and if worth getting.
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Could try unplugging the shift anticipation mode quick-connect fitting. Can bump the idle RPM up by 50 RPM or so; found it often helps in some situations. I'll see if I can't find some pictures to show what I mean.
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Don't know why you had the running problem. All I can say is try it again, and see if you get it to happen again. As for the engine dying while shifting, sounds like the rear shift cable needs to adjusted slightly. Shift cut-out engages when shifting out of gear into neutral - sounds like it's hanging up just a little bit.
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Needs 350 Mag / 5.7L Gi power or greater. If MerCruiser powered, works best with Bravo 3 XR props, or at least cupped standard Bravo 3 props - the L version vs. the standard 3/3 and 4/3 Elite series, due to the boat's hull pad.
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Just to verify, audio alarm beeps once when you turn the key to the 'on' position, but doesn't come on when the engine is stumbling? One other thing to look at is the engine harness cannon plug on top of the engine. All the dash wiring for the key switch, instruments, etc. go through this. Lots of times the male terminals on the cannon plug connection get squeezed together, giving you weird running symptoms. Loosen and slid the gear clamp from the cannon plug, then gently pull the cannon plug apart. Once this is done, with a small flat screwdriver, spread the male terminals above apart so
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Only made for models with cat equipped engines. On H20 models with a non-catalyst equipped engine, the wires are not connected to the warning light, even with a 4.3L MPI. All the OBD warning light is tell a person, 'Hey, you've got a problem with your emission control, such as a burned out cat...' $$$$
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Try MerCruiser part # 87-892150K02 or Q02. New style ignition sensor that goes under the rotor in the distributor. Came out in 2005 or so, and is a superior piece vs. the older stye ignition sensors. No one has messed with the timing by chance? That engine takes a special timing procedure to get it into (and out of) base timing mode. One other thing to look at is verifying the actual MPH the boat gets with a GPS or smart phone, etc. That boat should get right around 47 MPH with that engine for your elevation. One other thing to look at is the spark plug wires. Verify whether they're each
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A small thing. but you could spice up the rear sides with new Chaparral lettering vs. the vinyl stickers currently on there. I put the new style H20 version on my older Chaparral after I compounded, polished, and waxed my badly faded gelcoat. H20 lettering comes with the bird head, and takes up about the same space as currently used. Chrome over plastic, peel and stick. http://www.cecilmarineonline.com/servlet/the-4008/LOGO--dsh--CHAPARRAL-WITH/Detail As for decals, for that size of boat and area of coloured gelcoat, I have used several Chaparral decals to good effect - at least in my opinio
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244 Xtreme is a very nice boat. I recommend getting the arch vs. the tower though. Better looking, and no metal tubes in your forward sight lines. 246 SSi WT is a boat that is more favourable to moving large numbers of passengers. I personally prefer the 244 Sunesta/Xtreme layout to the 246 SSi WT, but I would like the 246 SSi WT bow instead of the 244's beak... Myself, I would take a regular 244 Sunesta WT with the optional arch and get Lenco trim tabs with the optional LED position indicator installed. Perfect Pass could be installed if wanted as well, and you'd still be money ahead. I
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Do you have the audio alarm beep at you when you turn the key to the 'on' position from the 'off' position? If so, and you don't get the audio to sound when the engine stumbles, then I would say the problem is mechanical in nature. i.e. distributor cap fouled, weak fuel pump, faulty fuel pressure regulator, water in fuel/spent fuel, etc. By mechanical in nature, I mean the EFI system doesn't know what the fuel pressure is, or if a distributor cap is fouled, etc. All the ECM knows is that the engine is not running properly, and it tries it's level best to keep the engine running. To this end
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They will if you use aluminum anodes on the St. Lawrence, but then again, you won't get the best protection either. I boat on Charleston Lake northeast of Gananoque, and while the water is a lot cleaner than the mighty St. Lawrence River, I might get 3 years for the magnesium anodes with the boat in the water from July 1st to Labour Day. (no power at the dock, but running ss Enertia prop and Lenco tabs)
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That's a heavy and deep boat, that runs very run given its size. Same as the 2330 SS, so owners of those models woud be able to give you real world numbers. I would think 48 MPH or so. Should see 4400-4800 RPM at wide open throttle at least for that era. If you're looking to buy this boat, then I recommend checking the following: 1. Install an aftermarket extended swim platform. Will completely cover the drive, and getting on and off the boat MUCH easier and safer. Figure 4 hours labour to install. 2. Have the transom bellows and gimbal ring checked for signs of wear. Big money if they n
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Put on kit # 888755Q03 this fall. Magnesium vs. aluminum anodes for superior protection, but you'll most likely only get 2 seasons at best.
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Sounds like you're engine is down a cylinder, or the hull bottom is extremely dirty. Is your engine fuel injected (5.0L MPI) or carb'd? 5.0L Irregardless, you want to have the boat looked at. If fuel injected, I would start with the distributor cap and rotor, and then change out the spark plugs. If you're looking to install a new cap and rotor for a MY 2003 5.0L carb'd engine, MerCruiser part # 805759T3 or Quicksilver part # 805759Q3 is the cap & rotor kit. Biggest problem with that ignition was the ignition sensor* under the rotor. Cause the engine either not to start, or to run rough. (
