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mshaefer

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  1. mshaefer

    Pumping oil out through dipstick tube

    I'm feeling like something. Hand pump vs. 12v pony pump? Nevermind. I have a pump that attaches to my power drill. That'll do.
  2. Couple a few questions: 1. Is it correct that oil can be pumped out through the dipstick tube by attaching a "garden hose" to the threaded dipstick tube and pumping the oil out with a pump? 2. If so, how effective is this at getting out all (most/enough) of the oil? 3. Has anyone ever used a Seasense 12v oil changer (as here: http://www.iboats.com/Seasense-12v-Oil-Changer/dm/cart_id.276350656--session_id.168034153--view_id.56374) and would they recommend it?
  3. mshaefer

    Winterization Best Practices

    Its an '04 SSI 260. While it has a head, our lake strictly forbids that they even be hooked up so there is no concern about freezing there. It does have the sinks, though, and so that will be of concern. The boat is stored on a lift outside, so there is no protection from the elements. One thing I'm not familiar with is how to drain the block (and refill with antifreeze). I've also seen some stuff about running antifreeze through the muffs? I'll do some googling and see if I can pull some more info together so I know how to do all this. This is absolutely excellent information, though! Thank you all!
  4. mshaefer

    Winterization Best Practices

    Been looking all over the forum and online for info about winterization. From what I can tell I can either do nothing, or everything. What I'm wondering is what are the most basic winterization steps that all I/O boat owners should take? Although I'm in Georgia, we can still expect at least a couple few days below freezing and it doesn't take much to crack a block or destroy [fill in the _______]. So what are you're winterization best practices - the few things that you CANNOT go without in winter?
  5. mshaefer

    Replacement for Attwood V1250bilge pump?

    Oh yes. Definitely replacing. I was just hoping that there was some cheap piece that would snap in place and let me run the life out of the current pump. Richard, that's an excellent idea. I'll have to try that.
  6. mshaefer

    Replacement for Attwood V1250bilge pump?

    THE VERDICT FROM ATTWOOD Since perusing the forums, I understand a number of folks have pined over the loss of the V-series pumps. My concerns were related to rewiring, hoses fitting, float switch, etc. I spoke to the rep at Attwood and these are the facts: 1) The V series is gone like so many drain plugs dropped at the dock - they ain't coming back. 2) There are no parts available to fix any of the remaining V-series pumps. To Attwood's credit, it looks like they designed a product that outlasted even itself. The Tsunami line is the replacement. 1) The downside: new mounting pattern. Tsunami's only share one screw hole in common with the V-series, meaning two new holes will have to be drilled to mount it. 2) The upside: wiring is exactly the same and they will work and wire up with any existing float switch paired with an older gen V-series pump. 3) The outlet hose size is exactly the same as well. So there you have it. Tsunami is the new V-series. This may be very old news to others, but it's new enough to me to share it here. I just REALLY wish I didn't have to put two holes "in my hull". Is it possible to glue these down???
  7. mshaefer

    waketower decisions

    PTC. Is that McIntosh? We're Oconee.
  8. mshaefer

    waketower decisions

    No way! I had no idea most racks did this. I always wondered how all these boats could possibly fit into their lifts unless they had, as I mentioned, the taller canopies on the lift. This has been one of my primary reasons for not shopping around for one.
  9. mshaefer

    Replacement for Attwood V1250bilge pump?

    This, of course, was my concern. Ultimately I'm not super concerned because the boat lives on a lift and is only ever taken out for a few hours at a time. With a working bilge pump, I wouldn't imagine the issue would build to such a level. As far as diagnosing a leak is concerned, what are some steps? I know the boat received service before this season (though I'm also well aware that a number of issues I raised were not addressed, but that is a whole different issue. I'm sure the mechanic did everything he was asked.) I've read elsewhere that gaskets/seals a the transom can be troubling (it's a bravo 3 if that matters). How would I go about determining this for sure? Good news is that new bilge will go in relatively soon and the boat will be stored for probably all winter after that.
  10. mshaefer

    Repair chips in gelcoat below the waterline

    THIS IS PERFECT! This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
  11. mshaefer

    waketower decisions

    What about towers that collapse for storage? On our lake in Georgia, boats are almost exclusively stored on covered lifts which, if you build up a tall enough canopy, is not a problem. We intentionally kept our canopy low so we could tuck the boat high into the ceiling and better protect it. Is there a wake tower that easily and reliably folds down for storage?
  12. mshaefer

    Repair chips in gelcoat below the waterline

    I'm guessing that what I'm calling "white" is code for "special chaparral color that novices think is white until they try to repair it"...or something like that. As to the depth of the ding - all I can say is that the hull is "white" and the inside of the ding is black, which leads me to believe that it's chipped away the gelcoat entirely. The ding is honestly not more than 1/4" (I may have said 1/2" earlier) or even a little smaller. Looks like maybe someone found the edge of the boat lift or trailer or else hit something floating on the water. It's a very small ding, but obviously one that I want to correct while it's still just a small ding. My understanding of how to do the repair with gelcoat is to grind away the rough edges of the ding with a dremel, rough up the area just around the ding, fill the ding and spread the gelcoat around the roughed area, allow to cure, sand progressively to a smooth finish. I'm not sure I entirely follow the epoxy method or exactly what kind of epoxy your using. I'm guessing this is not just home depot off the shelf epoxy, but something more tailor made for this job? Nor am I up on mixing in the color to the epoxy or going over it with gelcoat. Am I understanding any of that? Sorry guys - I've learned over the years plenty of mechanical, electrical, and even upholstery stuff, but I know nothing about fixing gelcoat.
  13. mshaefer

    Repair chips in gelcoat below the waterline

    Is Spectrum the recommended brand here? Between this site and hull truth, it's the one I see mentioned most. Secondly, if the hull is bright white, should matching be that big of an issue? I have literally zero experience with this, though I'm excited to give it a go and learn how to do it.
  14. mshaefer

    Replacement for Attwood V1250bilge pump?

    ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ I am amazed at how my body will contort when I need to get into the engine compartment. Currently for my bilging needs, I have to switch the bilge on and then hold the bilge and the outlet hose pressed together while I submerge the bilge pump. Another concern is why it's taking on as much water as it is, but I really want to fix the bilge issue first. Perhaps it's not taking on all that much. I pulled some tubes and skiers for a good 2.5-3 hours and when I came back (to discover my bilge problem) water was just up to the bottom of the engine. Is that more than I should expect after a long hard run?
  15. mshaefer

    Repair chips in gelcoat below the waterline

    Excellent! That's good to hear. Yeah, I really don't care all that much how it looks. It isn't ever visible except on the lift and if you're looking for it.
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