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About scubajohnsonben

  • Birthday 05/13/1961

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    San Diego, CA

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  1. scubajohnsonben

    Definitely a fuel tank leak

    As others have recommended, call chaparral. Don't just call once, call a couple times and leave emails. I have a 2003 signature 300 that have the same problem two years ago. They covered the tank. I cover the labor. The engines did not have to come out. They pulled the generator, cut the floor over the tank, and remove part of the bulkhead and talk to the tank out. My total was about $3500. And that was with the boat in the water. I also had to coat the bottom half of the tank with epoxy.
  2. scubajohnsonben

    Sea Water Pump Bearing

    If that's the pump driven off the crankshaft there's no repairing it. Replace the pump and pulley as an assembly. Just finished doing that on one of my 5.0 gxi's.
  3. scubajohnsonben

    5.7 GSI Bizarre Fuel Pressure Issues

    Hey I've been off for a while. What finally resolved this, and did those Ford injectors work ok for you? My engine which I'm pretty convinced has injector leak down issues is flowing a lot of fuel compared to the other engine. Pretty sure I'm going to replace them this winter and wanted to check in on your experience with the ford units.
  4. scubajohnsonben

    2001 Sig 300 - Good Purchase?

    I have the same boat - a 2003 300 with 5.0 DP's - we love it. Mine was a fixer-upper, but now that its fixed-up we use it all the time. I had about 105 hours on mine when I got it and it had sat for a while so I had a few issues - but the 5.0's seem to be plenty of power (I'd have put 5.7's in it if I bought it new) - from tank-to-tank hours/gallons calcs it averages around 11 GPH. I have flow meters on it and cruising at 28-30 seems to be around 18GPH. I can do San Diego to Catalina and back in good seas... Good luck and let us know how it works out!
  5. +1 - sounds like a charger problem. I have the exact same boat and my charger was dead when I bought it. Replaced it with a Dual-Pro 3-bank unit and have been very happy. The generator itself is connected to the Starboard battery switch and will keep that battery charged without the charger, but it's of no use to the other batteries so I'd suspect the charger.
  6. scubajohnsonben

    Optimal RPM for a 2006 Chaparral 310 Signature

    +1 on that. Mine likes a few mph above minimum plane. Flattens nicely and best overall fuel economy. Engines around 3400-3600.
  7. scubajohnsonben

    Alternator, guages, and battery issues

    If your battery voltage was low the engine computer may have commanded the high idle to try and get charging voltage up. Now that things are stable again you may find all is well. If you continue to have idle issues check the IAC (idle air control). Known to go bad on mercs.
  8. scubajohnsonben

    Promariner Protech-3 Charger

    Mine went bad. Replaced with Dual-Pro and have been very happy. No issues in 2 years so far. http://www.wholesalemarine.com/shop-by-brand/dual-pro-chargers/professional-series-battery-charger-78878.html
  9. scubajohnsonben

    Battery Configuration

    The port switch powers the port engine and 'the house". When set to batt 1 the port engine battery powers the port engine and boat "house" power. Ok for day trips but for overnights they suggest switching port to batt 2. If you drain it you can either fire your generator to power the Chargers (the gender starter is tied to starboard switch) or switch your port switch back to batt 1 to crank the engine to get underway and charge the house batt. It's actually pretty clever if you think about it: 'normal operation, port and starboard switches set to 1. Overnight port switch to 2, starboard to 1. house batt dead start generator to charge port batt dead switch port switch to 2 to start off house batt. stbd batt dead switch to 2 to fire off house batt. lets say port and house batts dead (you know you left the port switch to "all"). In this case fire the stbd engine. Switch stbd switch to "all" to couple the stbd batt with the house batt. Switch port switch to 2 which connects it to the house (which is being charged by the stbd batt and engine). Might let the system stabilize 5 minutes then start port engine. Best to get the stbd switch set back to 1 after all is running well. Switch port back to 1 (really doesn't matter but best so you don't forget later.
  10. scubajohnsonben

    Need VHF Uniden opinions / experiences with a model.

    I had bad luck with uniden several years ago. Seemed easy to break. A commercial guy I know steered me to icon and I've never looked back. Never a problem.
  11. scubajohnsonben

    New Thermostat. New Impeller. Temps near 200...What now?

    If all else checks out check the recirculating pump. The vanes can erode especially if you're running salt water through the engine.
  12. scubajohnsonben

    2004 290 signature tach wiring

    Mines a 2003 300. Near as I can find, chap quit including wiring charts after 1999 (for shame). I use the chart for the '99 for mine and find it generally accurate. Makes no sense to me why only 2 wires though. http://www.chaparralboats.com/publications/uploaded_files/177/1999.pdf
  13. scubajohnsonben

    Added Volt Meters to Dual Battery Set Up

    First, there are a lot of truths to many posts here. It is fact the best way to evaluate state of charge is with an accurate digital voltmeter. It should read to hundredths for best accuracy. The voltmeters on the dash are generally inaccurate, providing " within a volt" of accuracy and really only indicate the charging system is ( or is not) working. Google "marine battery state of charge chart" and you'll see a myriad of charts which indicate levels of charge based on "open circuit voltage'. That is - no load and best checked about 30 min after charger is disconnected, engines off. The OP has his meters directly at batteries, which is most accurate. I have a Blue Sea System VM mounted in my cabin tied to a heavy power feed to a lighter/accessory socket and it reads pretty close. You can see voltage drop potential at every connector so if you want a 'weighted number' you'd test at your inside meter test point and at the battery and figure the difference. So using the Trojan chart as reference, if at my battery I measure 12.73v I'd be at 100% (likely only seen after shore power charge). Now if I view my gauge in the cabin and it reads 12.68v, I have a voltage drop of .05v through cables and connectors at that gauge. Apply that to whatever you're reading and you'll be close. But until you get a 'reference test" measured at the battery you won't be sure. I haven't referenced mine yet but at open circuit it reads about 12.7v which is good for me. As I run on batt power and it drops to about 12-12.10 volts I know I'm around 50% which is as low as I prefer to go. Fire up the genny for a while and start the process all over again. I'm about to take it on a 10 day cruise where we"ll be off shore power on mooring balls for several days at a time and expect this to be a great help. Note: posters who are more concerned about the health of the battery are correct' in my experience you need a load tester/analyzer to truly gauge the health of the battery. However if a cell goes bad the VM will find it as you'll quickly drift below 12v. This monitoring is most useful to keep an eye on state of charge on an assumed healthy battery system.
  14. scubajohnsonben

    Priming water pump?

    Hmm...both hot and cold water? All faucets? Trace the water line from the pump. Must be a distribution block somewhere after the tee to the transom shower and before the rest of the faucets.
  15. scubajohnsonben

    Replacing Volvo Active Corrosion Protection - Question

    Update. The new anti corrosion systems seem to have done the trick! By now my zincs would have been near replacement. Diver just reported they're at 80% plus still there! Says they're doing better than other boats in the marina. Huge difference. Love it when a plan comes together!