TexasPilot71

Members
  • Content count

    1,817
  • Joined

  • Last visited

2 Followers

About TexasPilot71

  • Birthday 02/09/1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Allen, TX
  • Interests
    Flying, Boating, Golfing, Baseball

Recent Profile Visitors

4,384 profile views
  1. Coming along!
  2. The week of June 4th is out for us. We could do the week of the 11th though. Pretty open after that but I doubt we want to be there in July. Edit: I was told wrong. The week of the 11th may be out for us. May be able to go week of 4th. Larry, when do the girls get out of school?
  3. Good thing I got a Mopar extended warranty. Yikes!
  4. Just to close this thread down (until complete)...I spoke to Mercury and Ken was great. He didn't know of a 6-pin to 10-pin interface because the 6-pin isn't Mercury OEM. He suggested running a Data Harness (879981T20) from the engine to the helm connecting it to a 4-way junction box (878492K14). This gives me a nice OEM style setup and allows a scan tool to be plugged into the junction box if/when needed. The Vesselview will simply plug into one of the ports on the j-box. Thanks for all the help!
  5. Well the connection to the tachometer (which as you said drives the other gauges) is a gray, square, 6-pin connector. It obviously carries all Smartcraft data to the helm. So if there is a way to simply interface that connection to the VV harness which has the 10-pin plug, that would be a very easy fix. Do you know if such an interface is available?
  6. Thanks Wingnut. I am a single engine. I do have the port on the engine with a terminator attached to it (it does not run to the helm). I removed the terminator and attached the VesselView harness to the plug and the VV worked beautifully. I took the time to setup the VV and ensured it was reading the engine, fuel tank, depth, etc. my guess is that some boats have a harness that runs to the dash from that connection? There must be another bus that runs all the Smartcraft data to the Tachometer, but it is buried in the sidewalk of the boat. Very difficult to find the connector and I’m not even sure if it’s the same connector type I just connected the VV to on the engine. Thoughts??
  7. Is it possible there is no junction box? At the boat now and have the dash torn apart. For the life of me I cannot find a junction box. Tracing wires as much as i can and no joy. If no junction box, is there a harness that I can connect to the engine and run to the helm?
  8. Good point on the breaker. On the 250, it is indeed under the helm. Check there. I have tripped mine and a simple reset did the trick. My issue was lubrication. I also lubed the fitting @tanker is talking about and it operated much better and hasn't tripped the breaker since.
  9. +1 I have the same boat (250 Sig) and that's exactly the way the system works. So as you said, unless his is set up differently, what you said is all true.
  10. I have a 250 Sig like you. Ours has two batteries for the house system and one battery for the engine. We stay on the hook overnight and never have any problems with the starting battery going dead. I NEVER switch either of the battery banks "off" until I'm tied up in the slip and leaving the boat. You have something else going on....the starting battery is either going bad or you have something drawing it down. Proper management (if everything's setup correctly and batteries are good) is to turn both switches "on" when beginning your day, but make sure the "emergency switch" off as that switch combines the two battery banks. Only use the emergency switch when you've exhausted your starting battery and need the house batteries to help get the motor started. Hope that makes sense. You might also want to check your Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR) if you have one.
  11. @Exoset I have a VV4 on the way! So now I need to figure out how I want to lay out the panel. I like your carbon-fiber looking panels in lieu of the wood grain panel I have on the 250 (identical scheme as your old 270). Are those actually aluminum panels covered with a 3M adhesive backed decal or are they made from something else? I'm thinking about replacing all gauges with only the VV4 and then maybe mount the VHF on the panel. Not sure how that will look, though. In your opinion, is there any value to keeping the stock gauges and simply incorporating the VV4 into the panel or an all out replacement and using the VV4 as an all-in-one gauge? I'm afraid it won't look very balanced. Can't wait to hook up the VV4 and see how it works!
  12. If it's like mine, there's an access cover (unscrew to open). Then, reach inside and find the pin that connects the arm to the hatch. Remove the pin and you should be able to manually open the hatch. Good luck!
  13. I had the unusual opportunity to spend about 20 minutes at the controls of a B744 10 years ago over Saudi Arabia (autopilot off). It was a Saudi Prince's Flying Palace. Incredible experience.
  14. Wow, never heard of a 744 being used for a football charter. Usually 757/767. I’ve worked a bunch of NBA and NHL charters using mostly 737, A310, 756.