TexasPilot71

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Everything posted by TexasPilot71

  1. I think we can be there in time to get the boat in the water Tuesday evening, provision the next morning and be ready to leave Miami around noon. Or, if you want to hang out at the sandbar Wednesday afternoon, that would be a good way to relax before heading to Keys. Really open to either. I'm even okay with hauling a bit farther and putting in down at North Key Largo area. Haven't researched much about that option, though.
  2. We just got our baseball schedule. Playoff weekend will be June 9/10 so that puts us leaving Texas on the 11th (Monday) and arriving on Tuesday evening the 12th. We will probably extend the trip a little meaning we can be in Florida that Tuesday night and have to be back on the road the following Monday or Tuesday (June 18/19).
  3. Sorry to hear about the unpleasant trip. Hope all is well. Well, I got rid of the old gauges and am replacing the space by moving the VHF up to the panel and adding a permanent RAM mount for iPhone as well as a dual USB/voltmeter plug. I had a flush mount iphone setup but there just wasn't space enough (width/height) behind the panel. I'll post some photos over on facebook, but it's too difficult to post photos here anymore (well, maybe using the gallery, but it's quirky). Thanks for the pointers!
  4. Thanks! I just finished the new aluminium panel last night. Hope to get it installed this weekend. I have run around with the VV4 in the acrylic frame and it works really great. Love having all the info in one spot. Fuel qty gets a little quirky as the pitch of the boat changes, but you'll never get away from that. Very cool system! Love it!
  5. I've had a few instances (several really) where everything is fine then the display under the tachometer sorta "freezes". I typically have that display showing depth. Basically, it either freezes on whatever value is indicating or it goes to zero and freezes there. If I page up or down, each of the other pages data is frozen as well. The tachometer and speedometer continue to operate normally. Until today, I've had to shut the ignition off and restart, but I learned a little trick today. I simply press both the up and down arrows simultaneously until the system goes into a programming mode. I then go to the exit page and select exit. The system "reboots" and even the unaffected tachometer goes to zero then to the correct value and the digital display starts working correctly. Any thoughts on what causes this and how to prevent it?
  6. +1 !!!!
  7. I like splitting it up! Shorter rides.
  8. We will be spending 4 days driving, and I think my wife will need to be back to work the following week. So, realistically, Monday through Friday and drive Sat/Sun on each end of the week. Things may change, but that's what we're thinking at the moment.
  9. That would probably work for us. Just remember....it's going to be a long ride from Miami around to the Keys. Maybe not long for you, Jonathan, and I, but the ladies might not care for it too much. Also depends on how deep in the Keys we want to go. @Exoset will be down in Marathon if memory serves. That's a long way.
  10. Thanks, I might do that. Don't want to have water spraying in the helm if I can help it.
  11. I've successfully replaced all the helm gauges with a single VesselView 4 (hooray!) When I disconnected the speedometer, I also disconnected the rubber "pitot tubing". I read there's a couple ways this system works. I read that it's simply piping water up to the speedometer and measuring the pressure, and I've read that some create a suction back at the transom and the speedometer measures that way. Does anybody know how it works in the Chaparrals? I presumed it pumped water to the speedometer, so I tied the hose in a knot and inserted a screw into the end to act as a plug. Does anybody recommend any other way to discontinue the use of this while preserving the option to reconnect somewhere down the road if I or the next owner decides to use it?
  12. FWIW, I am in the middle of installing the VV4 (You can see photos on another thread here). The VV Mobile does look really cool and for only 250 deer. The VV4 "retails" on eBay and other places for 850 deer and up. I found a VV4 on Facebook of all places asking 850 but the individual accepted 600 deer. I was going to be replacing my tachometer due to a fault and it cost around 600 deer so I am happy replacing all gauges with the VV4 for the same $$ (not to mention the added capabilities such as engine gateway).
  13. It's right there in the manual...just beneath flux-gate capacitor! All kidding aside, I'm glad you got it figured out. That's not a bad repair bill when you're (pardon the pun) "dead in the water".
  14. Coming along!
  15. The week of June 4th is out for us. We could do the week of the 11th though. Pretty open after that but I doubt we want to be there in July. Edit: I was told wrong. The week of the 11th may be out for us. May be able to go week of 4th. Larry, when do the girls get out of school?
  16. Good thing I got a Mopar extended warranty. Yikes!
  17. Just to close this thread down (until complete)...I spoke to Mercury and Ken was great. He didn't know of a 6-pin to 10-pin interface because the 6-pin isn't Mercury OEM. He suggested running a Data Harness (879981T20) from the engine to the helm connecting it to a 4-way junction box (878492K14). This gives me a nice OEM style setup and allows a scan tool to be plugged into the junction box if/when needed. The Vesselview will simply plug into one of the ports on the j-box. Thanks for all the help!
  18. Well the connection to the tachometer (which as you said drives the other gauges) is a gray, square, 6-pin connector. It obviously carries all Smartcraft data to the helm. So if there is a way to simply interface that connection to the VV harness which has the 10-pin plug, that would be a very easy fix. Do you know if such an interface is available?
  19. Thanks Wingnut. I am a single engine. I do have the port on the engine with a terminator attached to it (it does not run to the helm). I removed the terminator and attached the VesselView harness to the plug and the VV worked beautifully. I took the time to setup the VV and ensured it was reading the engine, fuel tank, depth, etc. my guess is that some boats have a harness that runs to the dash from that connection? There must be another bus that runs all the Smartcraft data to the Tachometer, but it is buried in the sidewalk of the boat. Very difficult to find the connector and I’m not even sure if it’s the same connector type I just connected the VV to on the engine. Thoughts??
  20. Is it possible there is no junction box? At the boat now and have the dash torn apart. For the life of me I cannot find a junction box. Tracing wires as much as i can and no joy. If no junction box, is there a harness that I can connect to the engine and run to the helm?
  21. Good point on the breaker. On the 250, it is indeed under the helm. Check there. I have tripped mine and a simple reset did the trick. My issue was lubrication. I also lubed the fitting @tanker is talking about and it operated much better and hasn't tripped the breaker since.
  22. +1 I have the same boat (250 Sig) and that's exactly the way the system works. So as you said, unless his is set up differently, what you said is all true.
  23. I have a 250 Sig like you. Ours has two batteries for the house system and one battery for the engine. We stay on the hook overnight and never have any problems with the starting battery going dead. I NEVER switch either of the battery banks "off" until I'm tied up in the slip and leaving the boat. You have something else going on....the starting battery is either going bad or you have something drawing it down. Proper management (if everything's setup correctly and batteries are good) is to turn both switches "on" when beginning your day, but make sure the "emergency switch" off as that switch combines the two battery banks. Only use the emergency switch when you've exhausted your starting battery and need the house batteries to help get the motor started. Hope that makes sense. You might also want to check your Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR) if you have one.
  24. @Exoset I have a VV4 on the way! So now I need to figure out how I want to lay out the panel. I like your carbon-fiber looking panels in lieu of the wood grain panel I have on the 250 (identical scheme as your old 270). Are those actually aluminum panels covered with a 3M adhesive backed decal or are they made from something else? I'm thinking about replacing all gauges with only the VV4 and then maybe mount the VHF on the panel. Not sure how that will look, though. In your opinion, is there any value to keeping the stock gauges and simply incorporating the VV4 into the panel or an all out replacement and using the VV4 as an all-in-one gauge? I'm afraid it won't look very balanced. Can't wait to hook up the VV4 and see how it works!