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About Shepherd1

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    First Sea Lord

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    1000 Islands, Ontario

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  1. For those boats, should you need new bellows, I would go the following: 2 x 861150T02 and 87843 - Bravo thru-transom gear oil reservoir fitting and spare e-ring (these plastic fittings like to break VERY easily) 2 x 865437A03 - Bravo rear shift cable 2 x 8M0095485 - Bravo transom bellows kit (included gimbal bearing, u-joint, exhaust, and shift bellows, gear oil hose, mounting o-ring kit and updated water hose kit) 2 x 805320A03 - Bravo/Alpha trim sender kit 4 x 8M00824_ _ - Mercury Gen I Platinum - latest version shift and throttle cables. These will be Mercury Gen 1 standard type. If your current shift and throttle cables from the remote control to the engines are original, they'll be in dire need of replacement. Chaparral has removed their parts look up form the webpage so you'll need to do the following to get the correct length: - call Cecil Marine and have them tell you the length in feet from Chaparral parts lookup - find the original part numbers stamped on the 4 Teleflex cables. Lets say one or more are 22' in length - then new Mercury Gen I Platinum part number will be 8M0082495. Wish Mercury had kept it simple with the last 2 numbers being the length in feet. Platinum version gives the nicest shift feel and reduced effort vs. standard, especially for long runs and numerous bends. Last 2 numbers stamped in the Teleflex cables are the length in feet. Let us suppose you find the following info for your remote control cables: PORT engine has a 22' and a 21', and STBD has 19' and 18'. To make it easier, I call a Mercury dealer for the above Mercury parts, as well as the latest Gen I Platinum superseded numbers for 877773a22, 877773a21, 877773a19 and 877773a18. (this would be 8M0082495, 8M0082494, 8M0082492 and 8M0082491) NOTE: your current remote control cables quite likely have spray foam in place to help keep exhaust and noise from escaping the engine room. Any hardened spray foam you remove to re&re the cables, spray in new foam in place when work is completed for safety and decreased NVH. Few last things: - as I'm sure you know, you'll need an alignment tool to verify engine alignment, and to set up the new gimbal bearing - will need to calibrate the new trim senders (recommend putting the drive in Bravo 1 position first for faster hole shot and increased visibility when getting on plane) - have not noticed any adverse handling effects with your hull when going from Bravo 3 position to Bravo 1 position. - installing the new water hose design hook up on the rear of each engine is a PITA - get some Mercury Xtreme grease for the drive yoke splines and 4 screws for the trim senders - HIGHLY recommend installing the exhaust bellow vs exhaust tube. A PITA to be sure, but worth it for reduced noise levels while cruising. You won't notice any difference in power if your boat currently has the exhaust tubes in place. Hang and stretch out the exhaust bellows with a heavy pipe for a day or 2 before installing. - torque the upper gimbal ring nuts to spec - I can't recall the 2 specs off the top of my head, but depends on size of upper bolts/nuts.
  2. Just me, but that job is a PITA as it is, so I recommend getting the correct cable so hopefully you won't have to do it again.
  3. Thankfully I've never seen them cause any shifting problems with an Alpha from getting caught on the shift fork; they sit in there real loose. Have seen the odd boat where a broken exhaust flapper pin gets dislodged and falls down and gets stuck lower down in the Y-pipe itself and has caused a leak from wearing through the aluminum Y-pipe many years later. Have no fear if you wish to add Corsa Quick and Quiet to your boat. NOTE: sounds TERRIBLE on a V6 application, so V8 only like you have. If you decide to go this route, get the Exhaust switch cover to replace your ACCY switch cover to turn it and off at the dash. Cecil Marine can hook you us easy with that part.
  4. I'd put my money on the actual problem being 861150T02 - you're describing classic symptom and scenario that breaks or cracks these almost every time. Anytime we do bellows work or pull an engine with this style of thru-hull oil reservoir fitting, we replace it to save a serious PITA. This part might cost $ 20 USD however. Can you get us the part # that was replaced?
  5. Even with a stethoscope, I don't know if I could hear a bad exhaust flapper with Quick and Quiet turned on resulting in the majority of the exhaust gas to exit out the sides vs. through the prop(s). Eyesight is good, hearing not so much. NOTE: even with Quick and Quiet turned off, some exhaust gas and noise escapes out the side exits along with through the prop(s). I have seen the Corsa Quick and Quiet exhaust flappers make some rattling noise, often as a result of a past engine or exhaust overheat. If an overheat was bad enough, the Corsa exhaust flappers/pivot seals will often drip water into the engine compartment. For the stock exhaust flappers after an engine overheat, the rubber material gets burned off the stainless steel plates, and the flappers often fall apart and attempt to go out through the exhaust Y pipe, exhaust bellows and prop(s). Usually in such a scenario, for Alpha drive equipped models the broken exhaust flappers will get stuck on the shift fork.
  6. Is the hole in question in the picture below on the PORT side? If so, believe that is a transom shower kit. Can't recall the manufacturer though. Cecil Marine probably know.
  7. MerCruiser used several different versions of exhaust system for their small-block V8 engines from the early 2000's and newer models. Best bet is to get the engine serial # to verify getting the correct version and parts. It is fair to say that Mercury had an issue with exhaust leaks from the gasket for the manifold to head (item # 5 in the picture below) not being centered correctly and thus burning out after 100 hours of running time or so. In such a scenario, a person running their hand along this area can feel the exhaust gases, as well and hear and smell the exhaust leak typically. If however you can hear a 'ting-ting-ting' sound at idle that sounds like metal on metal, than it is likely you're hearing the exhaust flapper(s) hitting the exhaust elbow internally as the rubber coating has worn away from wear/use, or from an overheat that has stripped away the protective rubber seal material. (item # 7 in the picture below) Purpose of exhaust flappers is to reduce the chance of water getting into the engines cylinders when coming off plane quickly, hard reverse, or a following sea, etc.
  8. Gen+ 5.7L so far as I can tell made the same hp with a 2 bbl carb as a 1995 and older 5.7L with 4 bbl carb. An internal combustion engine is essentially an air pump, and the Gen+ head design worked very well for fuel swirl and scavenging. Do you need a Gen+ and/or do funds required make sense? Much depends on what is available in your area. I have a neighbour mechanic friend up the road who has a direct replacement for your particular engine with 4 bbl carb, etc. (freshwater use only being in 1000 Islands region of Ontario, Canada) NOTE: factory Weber carbs from MerCruiser are essentially the same as an Edelbrock marine carb. Parts should be readily available to convert from 2 bbl MerCruiser to 4 bbl set up for whichever generation from MerCruiser. While we're at it (the 4 most expensive words in the English language) installing an extended swim platform makes that boat so much more user friendly. Not cheap though. Factory ESP off a 210 SSi would bolt right up to your transom. Aftermarket versions are made too. Lastly, when you pull the engine, HIGHLY recommend removing the 4 lag bolts that hold the forward engine mounts to the stringers, instead of removing the large nut from the tops of the forward PORT and STBD forward engine mounts) This should ensure your engine alignment is as close as possible if doing a direct block replacement, and also makes it easier for placing the engine on say a pallet with blocks of wood for support. Seeing you have an Alpha drive, place the drive in forward gear of course for removal and installation of the drive. For a better sense of cost, would have the transom bellows, rear shift cable, trim senders, water hose and gimbal ring looked at first. Condition of stringers and transom should be assessed too. Not trying too talk you out of this project, as I rather liked the ride and handling of the 1995 SS versus competitors of that era.
  9. Hi Grant, am I correct in assuming you are currently running a 2 barrel carburetor? Should this be the case, let me know what version of engine you have and we can talk more specifically regarding parts and power without killing the bank account. Chris
  10. Seeing the boat is a 1996, it is quite likely you have 1987-1995 version unfortunately. For the 1996 and later Gen+ engines, GM primarily changed the head designs allowing for greater power with equivalent fuel economy. Vortec was a label for GM's latest and greatest engine technology for that given time. Please see below for identification tips for various years of GM small block 5.0L and 5.7L V8 engines (305 and 350 cubic inch displacement) Mercruiser 5.0l, 5.7l Identification Tips Over the years there have been several changes to the GM 5.0-Liter and 5.7-Liter engine blocks. Often making it difficult to positively identify which version a technician is working on, and the appropriate parts required to complete appropriate service repairs. Hopefully, this will help to take some of the mystery out of the identification process. 1986 & Earlier A. All 12 of the intake manifold bolts are installed at a 90-degree angle to the block. B. The valve cover bolts are installed at the perimeter of the head. C. Crankshafts utilize a 2-piece rear-main seal. D. These blocks are machined to operate a mechanical fuel pump. Note: In 1986 there was a limited production run with a one-piece rear-main seal, perimeter valve-cover bolts, and 90-degree bolt pattern for the intake manifold. 1987 thru 19951 A. 8 of the 12 intake manifold bolts are installed at a 90-degree angle to the block. The other 4 bolts are installed at a 72-degree angle. B. The valve cover bolts are install in the center of the head. C. Crankshafts utilize a 1-piece rear-main seal. D. These blocks are machined to operate a mechanical fuel pump. Note: During 1996 and 1997 the 3S0-Magnum (carb) and a limited production of the S.7­Liter EFI throttle body utilized this (non-Gen+) designed roller-cam engine. 1996 & Newer (Gen+) A. All 8 intake manifold bolts are installed vertically. (straight up and down) See MerCruiser Service Bulletin # 97-1 for proper torque procedures and specification. B. The valve cover bolts are installedl in the center of the head. C. Crankshafts utilize a 1-piece rear-main seal. D. Timing covers are plastic. E. Engines are fit with electric fuel pumps. Note 1: During 1996 and 1997 the 3S0-Magnum (carb) and a limited production of the S.7­Liter EFI throttle body utilized the 1987 thru 1995 engine block as stated above. Note 2: During 1996 the S.7-Liter MPI (multi-port fuel injected) engines were produced with a vapor separator and a mechanical fuel pump. For these applications we recommend using the Mercury Remanufacturing Pro-Series longblock # 860186ROS.
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  12. Will need the engine serial # for your engine to be of much assistance. Should be a sticker showing the engine serial # on the plastic engine cover, or it can be found stamped into a plate riveted to the engine block just above the starter motor. If the engine, drive, or transom serials cannot be found, at the very least I would need to know: - model and year of boat and model of engine i.e. MerCruiser 350 Mag Bravo with or without closed cooling (heat exchanger mounted on engine) Chris
  13. Never was a fan of the earlier Commander 3000 controls from Mercury. If the problem is indeed the shifter, I HIGHLY recommend the following: MerCruiser Gen II shifter with chrome handle (same as is finally used in 2012 Chaparral MerCruiser powered SSi boats) MerCruiser part # 8M0030551 Going from this style shifter: MerCruiser Gen II Premium shift and throttle cables MerCruiser part # 8M0082537 is a 14' Gen II cable. If you need a 13' cable, you would order 8M0082536. Current length in feet of the cables should be stamped on the shrouding) i.e. Generally shift on a MerCruiser is 1' shorter than the throttle cable. The Gen II style shifters are much smoother to operate than the older styles. When you move the handle, the cables don't move outside of the remote control - all movement is completed inside the box. This means bulkheads, etc. can be resting on the cables, with no real detriment to shift and throttle cable movement. In short, if the boat was mine, and the shifter and remote control cables were the problem, this is what I would install in their place. Some light modifications may be required for mounting, but we're talking drilling or filing holes in the plywood in different places or slightly larger and perhaps cutting some vinyl in a few spots with an exacto knife. Did this same project on our own boat, and was very glad I did it.
  14. I hear Brunswick is looking to sell Sea Ray. My understanding is that they have been using profits from Boston Whaler to keep Sea Ray viable. If this is the case, management must have gotten tired of it...
  15. Like your thinking! Not personally a fan of Exide batteries. I really like Optima (not cheap) and Deka too. (aka East Penn). I know Deka (East Penn) supplies batteries to Mercury (Quicksilver) and Yamaha among others. Up here in the Great White North, Exide supplies Crappy Tire, so I don't purchase batteries from them. NOTE: for anyone with a boat that is stored for 30 days or more, I HIGHLY recommend removing the negative battery cables off the battery(s) to prevent parasitic discharge, especially on newer large boats.