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Shepherd1

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About Shepherd1

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    First Sea Lord

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    1000 Islands, Ontario

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  1. Shepherd1

    23 suncoast

    Totally agree. Know for sure I would take a 250 Suncoast over a BW 230 Vantage given the way I use a boat. About as close as one can get for an apples-to-apples comparison. Would prefer to have the option to go with Mercury's new 300 hp V8 Verado vs the Yamaha F300 V6 on the Suncoast though. Would also like a windlass option on the Suncoast. Chaparral's ergonomics are so much better too; for the price of the 230 Vantage, I can't believe BW still makes the drivers seat so ungainly and uncomfortable. Especially with the bolster in the upright position.
  2. Shepherd1

    Engine noise - “popping” or “missing”

    Hmmmm, that Gen III fuel filter IMHO does not look bad...I've seen them look worse with no running issues on a given engine. I have spoken with Michelle in the past and found her to be very sharp and knowledgeable. Having said that, it's the bottom disc filter that is the most important regarding routine replacement according to Merc school teachers I've had. For reference, Mercury part #'s 35-892665 and 35-8M0093688. These filters of course will be included with the new Gen III fuel pump assy. Do know this; if there is no clutter around the engine, access for a mechanic is excellent on the 250/270 Signature vs the vast majority of boats in its class or even compared against a bowrider, etc. I've worked on the exact same boat as yours that had a MerCruiser 8.2 Mag (a rebadged late model 270 Sig) and there was still room for access. (just so people know, boaters from the Belle Province like their hp) Seeing they're going to have the Gen III module off, I STRONGLY urge you to have the seawater pump impeller replaced at the same time. They're going to be in there anyway and the fuel pump assy usually needs to be removed first to do the impeller. An added bonus that you have VesselView7 on the boat - from you description of symptoms this pretty much lets us know the issue is mechanical in nature vs a bad sensor, etc. Lastly, a question I have is whether anyone has run the engine on a shop outboard fuel tank? Granted a 6.6 gallon sized fuel tank will NOT allow a long boat ride but this is where I'd start. 2nd thing I'd do if that made zero difference is reset the rotor indexing. The HVS distributor (high voltage switch) is VERY sensitive to this for timing. I'll see if I can find the instructions for this later today. Chris
  3. Shepherd1

    White Smoke / Gauge Cluster / New Owner / 1997 Sunesta 210

    I got you a wiring diagram for your boat. email me at chriss@marina.ca and I'll send it to you. Chris
  4. Shepherd1

    265SSI windlass

    Installing a windlass in a 265 SSi is a serious job. Think it took us 30 hours total man time. Front panel in the cabin holding the speakers needs to come out for access. Original owner still runs the boat A LOT and has never had an issue with it. The only thing I would change is I would now recommend a Rocna anchor vs the Delta as they set and hold so much easier.
  5. Shepherd1

    2004 Chaparral ssi 230 350 Mag MPI

    Love that 230 SSi - great boat. One thing to keep in mind on your MerCruiser 350 Mag MPI is that the oil pressure sender for the analog oil pressure gauge is on a separate circuit than the oil pressure sensor which sends its information to the ECM which in turn sends the audio alarm signal to the piezo horn. Long way of saying I believe your oil pressure sensor is plugged with crudy old oil. If this is the case, than it would need Mercury part # 881897T11. NOTE: Not to be confused with the seawater pump pressure sensor which is located in the power steering cooler even though they look the same. (8M6000623) I typically use my 1" deep socket to re & re. Sometime you can get a wrench on there should adequate space be there. Should be located on the rear of the engine attached to the block the by distributor. Part # 36 is the oil pressure sensor in the link below - part # 38 is the oil pressure sender for the analog oil pressure gauge
  6. Shepherd1

    Engine Coupler Greasing

    Kind words - I believe that guy in the video and W has forgotten more than I'll ever know...
  7. Shepherd1

    White Smoke / Gauge Cluster / New Owner / 1997 Sunesta 210

    There are boat junk yards in the US that may have what you need. Another option would be to contact Sandy Cove Marine in Ontario who used to purchase transport loads of new discontinued parts for boats directly from Chaparral back when they were a dealer. Could try calling them to see if they have these parts in stock or in a flea market they used to run. Personally, I think having the idea that you'll probably need to do a complete rewire and using Cyclops' trick of the hair dryer will go a long way. Using the correct colour and gauge of tinned marine grade wire will be the way to go too. Maybe the gauges will be NFG - if they are, recommend going with SeaStar / Teleflex Sterling series gauges, etc. As you say, the shift and throttle cables are a preventative maintenance issue, but new cables work so much better than old stiff ones. With the SeaStar / Teleflex Xtreme version cables, they are built to a higher design standard, and last longer and feel smoother than standard type. Hold off on the impeller change until the boat is ready to be splashed after all the repairs. SeaDek will have a local dealer who should be able to take a laser scan of the integrated swim platform on your boat to get you an exact fit. Would think that SeaDek already has a pattern for swimplatforms.com ESP. If you do go with an aftermarket ESP option, do ask that you consider using the Chaparral factory support bar and brackets vs. the bent bar type that come with the aftermarket ESP. The factory version is very strong and give more choice for mounting locations. Might be a little hard to see in the pictures below, but using these factory brackets will give you greater flexibility if you ever wanted to mount smart tabs, or conventional trim tabs, etc. in future. Chris
  8. Shepherd1

    Engine Coupler Greasing

    Just me Sean, but given the age of the boat, I highly recommend pulling the drive to inspect engine alignment, checking the bellows and then cleaning and greasing the yoke splines by hand. Greasing the engine coupler from the zerk fittings is okay, but pulling the drive every few years is a good idea, and very doable with an Alpha. Mercury has superseded their engine coupler spline grease to their newer Extreme Grease which also replaces their gimbal bearing and u-joint grease. HIGHLY recommend getting Mercury tool part # 91-865232 (really cheap to buy) as it holds the shift cable end in place during installation of the drive. Order of operation: Step 1. Raise the drive and disconnect the speedo hose quick attach coupler. (gray push button) Step 2. Lower to the drive to a horizontal position and place your shifter into forward gear. Step 3. Follow videos below. NOTE: I personally like to remove the trim cylinders from the anchor pins so the drive doesn't get scratched up when removing and installing the drive. Doesn't add a lot of time to the job either.
  9. Shepherd1

    Replacing the fuel water separator

    I'm going to assume you have Yamaha power and as such are trying to remove their spin-on fuel filter - Yamaha part # mar-fuelf-il-tr If so, recommend getting a good quality oil filter wrench to aid in removal. NOTE: flip the old filter upside down and empty the old fuel into a clean container to see if there is any sign of water or debris trapped. Once a spin-on fuel filter has been emptied in such a manner, it should never be reinstalled back on the boat as doing so could allow trapped particles to enter the fuel system. I typically change them once a season unless a problem is experienced, but most people up here don't put anywhere near the engine hours on in a season that your area would.
  10. Shepherd1

    White Smoke / Gauge Cluster / New Owner / 1997 Sunesta 210

    If you're going to get new switches, would recommend getting the back lit style from the early 2000's and that Chaparral used. This will allow you to see what each switch controls at night without having a given switch powered up first (so long as navigation lights are turned on first) Believe that this newer style of custom Contura switch should fit directly into your panel - original style was not back lit back in 1997 if memory serves when a given switch wasn't turned on. Picture below is from a 1998 210 Sunesta with what I believe your helm and switches look like (minus the MerCruiser shifter) 2003 Sunesta 210 model below with later style back-lit Contura switches - picture is small and I apologize. They're not cheap but work well. (4, 6 and 8 terminal versions) Picture below of custom Contura style switches I'm talking about - taken from a Hurricane model boat, but you get the idea. Once all the wiring gremlins are figured out and repaired, I would look into the following items if budget allows: 1. Verify condition of gasoline - hopefully no signs of stale fuel, ethanol or phase separation. Recommend running the engine on a shop outboard fuel tank first to verify operation. 2. Installing an aftermarket extended swim platform. That model was quite tight for space at the transom, and an ESP really transform the boat for added space, safety and ease of getting on and off the boat. (optional factory platform 3-1199 I'm sure in now NLA sadly) 3. Installing custom SeaDek or Gatorstep onto the integrated and extended swim platforms for even better grip and foot comfort. Cooler on the feet than bare white fibreglass too. 4. Replace shift and throttle cables - should be a 13' and 14' for Volvo application. Recommend going with upgraded SeaStar Xtreme cables - part #'s CCX63313 and CCX63314 (3300/33C Type Control Cable with 10-32 theads - formerly Teleflex Marine) 5. Pull drive and inspect transom bellows and engine alignment. Replace bellows, etc. if needed. 6. Replace seawater pump impeller. 7. Engine tune up if required. http://www.swimplatforms.com/showImages.php?mk=175 http://www.cecilmarineonline.com/search.php?search_query=switch cover&section=product http://www.cecilmarineonline.com/electrical-1/ http://forum.chaparralboats.com/publications/PartsGuides/Sunesta/2003/210.pdf
  11. Shepherd1

    Power for 227 SSX

    All LS and Gen V engines from GM are old school OHV of course - work really well though as you say.
  12. Shepherd1

    Power for 227 SSX

    MerCruiser's 4.5L V6 and 6.2L V8 engines are actually cast iron vs aluminum like the Gen V GM engines Volvo uses. Correct, Volvo uses aluminum block, heads and exhaust while Mercury uses all cast iron. The reasons I was told according to a Mercury sales rep are no need for closed cooling as standard, reliable process and durability. Volvo to my mind went for power to weight, proven to be tough, better fuel economy and latest technology. I have not driven a 227/237 SSx but have driven a Cobalt R3 which is essentially the same sized and a direct competitor in its class. As soon as a person drives that model with a Volvo V8-300 5.3L Gen V engine, you'll feel the power difference vs older Gen 1e MerCruiser and Volvo engines. There's still power on tap at 4/5 throttle and the engine is eager to rev to WOT - older Gen 1e stuff is a little lackluster in this regard and the latest MerCruiser stuff just doesn't match up very well IMHO to GM Gen V product. Do not mean to knock Mercury - their latest V6 and V8 outboard 4-stroke products are simply stunning, silent, powerful and fuel efficient. And their Racing stern drive division QCV4 engines are certainly high tech and tough. Was really hoping that Merc would have made a smaller engine based off their 9.0L/ 552 cid DOHC V8 Racing engine (say a 6.0L version) but alas that was not to be. They do make a 7.0L based on GM's LS small block but they add their own 32 valve DOHC heads that they install and call it the SB4 - makes 750 hp naturally aspirated on pump gas. Automotive crate engine application only though... https://www.enginelabs.com/news/sema-2016-mercury-racing-releases-750-hp-32-valve-ls-crate-engine/
  13. Shepherd1

    Power for 227 SSX

    I'm going to take a slightly different stance. Given your description of how you plan on using the boat, I would look for a 227/237 SSx with 300 hp - preferably the Volvo 5.3 V8-300 Dual Prop version. Going to give you IMHO the best performance and fuel economy vs the MerCruiser 6.2L simply based on power to weight ratio and technology. Volvo is using the GM Marine LS series 4.3L/5.3L Gen V engines that are all aluminum vs cast iron with the Merc options, in addition to having variable valve timing and direct injection. NOTE: MerCruiser makes their own engines - the 4.5L V6 is a near clone of the GM old style Gen 1e 262/4.3L V6, while their current 6.2L is a near clone of the venerable Gen 1e 350/5.7L Volvo's current V6-200/240/280 hp models are from the GM Gen V 262/4.3L V6 which is a totally different engine than the Gen 1e 262/4.3L V6 version even though they're the same displacement. V6 options will work too on that boat, but should you go this way, I would HIGHLY recommend getting the Bravo 3/Dual Prop versions vs single prop Alpha 1 / SX-A. Difference in favour of Bravo 3 / Dual Prop is akin to having 4 wheel drive in winter conditions. In my experience with boats this size, the V8 with Bravo 3 / Dual Prop will be very close in fuel economy in real world scenarios with the V6 single prop. (cruising speeds will be a little higher with V8 vs V6 too) https://www.gmmarinepower.com/products.html Comparison of MerCruisers 4.5L V6 vs their old 5.0L V8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBvqvGB3b4Y https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBvqvGB3b4Y https://www.gmmarinepower.com/products.html
  14. Shepherd1

    Warranty - Cone Clutch

    Just my personal observation, but I find if a person uses the joystick / Axius option, then the cone clutch operates a lot more in that B3 drive than during normal docking. Would be interested in seeing the condition of the gear oil at the 200 hour mark (I am assuming it would have last been changed out 100 hours earlier and was probably in dire need of replacement) That being said, I would hope Mercury will come to the table. NOTE: around 2007 when Volvo introduced their DPS-A they had a lot more 'clunk' when they go into gear than older DP-SM models. This was a result of Volvo wanting to make the cone clutch of these drives be more durable. Kind of cringe worthy though on say a 23' boat or Joystick equipped boats with a DPS-A or -B when shifting into gear compared to the old DP-SM drives which were very smooth and quiet when going into gear. Mercury conversely improved their Bravo 3 in 2005 and went with a very smooth and quite design that is still used today.
  15. Shepherd1

    Newbie with a '95 1930 SS

    Understood. You sound like you're mechanically savvy. For pulling the engine, I recommend removing the lag bolts from the stringers, and leaving the engine mounts alone to allow for faster re & re time with no need to adjust the engine mounts or their fasteners. As for the swim platform, it's too bad they didn't come as standard equipment at that time from the factory. Adding SeaDek on top of the aftermarket swim platform and especially the integrated swim platform and lids adds a lot more comfort and safety again. (the cooler lids and non-skid used on the SS boats of that era were quite slippery and angled to boot) Gatorstep is another option. Below is a picture of our 01' 186 SSi with custom SeaDek and factory ESP that I installed. Of all the mods I have had done to the boat, the top 5 list in priority have been: 1. the addition of the ESP with SeaDek 2. installed Chaparral sourced late model premium bucket seats (not cheap, but so much more comfortable and versatile than original buckets) 3. installed 4 blade Mercury ss prop (amazing grip - we do a lot of water sports) 4. installed Lenco trim tabs and indicator switch 5. had a new custom cockpit and bow cover with zipper fabricated and installed (no more water gets in where the bow cover meets the windshield) In a way I envy you; about at the end mods to our boat and I think a project boat for the right price would be fun.
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