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About Shepherd1

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    First Sea Lord

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    1000 Islands, Ontario

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  1. Another option you might consider is removing your current Chaparral letters and installing the smaller sized new style lettering used on the H20 models. Looks good IMHO but depending on hull condition you may wish to wet sand, compound and polish that area before putting the new letters on. Installed them on my 186 SSi and I think it looks good and font size matches the boat size. Just a thought if you can find original style lettering. http://www.cecilmarineonline.com/chaparral-logo-with-small-bird-head-30-x-2-14-00671-in-stock-ready-to-ship/
  2. Someone is going to get a sweet boat with really rare engine option for that model! Hope you enjoy whatever new boat you purchase. Chris
  3. Interesting, I didn't know that Volvo powered models with the square POS gauges used GPS data for speedo read out. Dealership I worked at only sold Merc powered versions which all used water hose from drive. Having said that, I always installed the GPS unit, as the OEM Garmin versions didn't have the preferred faster processor, higher pixel rate and sonar like the 545s/546s etc. with local G2 Vision chart. If the speedometer truly gets its information for the Garmin GPS, then my little brain would think the information would actually go through the tachometer first and then to the speedometer. Should this be the case, it might simply be a case that a parameter has not been enabled or changed by accident. If you go through your owners package, you should be able to find a pair of quick reference sheets. Also never installed the custom Perfect Pass that was used in place of the square speedometer, but that is really the only one I can think that would want GPS info for speed. Chris
  4. Shepherd1

    205 sl info

    All the MerCruiser 4.3L engines from mid '80's to late model stuff have rev range of 4400-4800 at wide open throttle. Goes for 2 bbl carb, 4 bbl, EFI and MPI.
  5. Might be hard to see, but check carefully the following: - the bilge drain plug base itself - the blue drain plugs on the engine; if missing the o-rings water can drip in, especially with the engine running - using a garden hose, spray down the stern boarding ladder mounting hardware, cockpit drains and hoses - possible water can get past sealant around drain fittings
  6. Would your engine happen to be carbureted vs fuel injected? i.e. MerCruiser 5.7L Thunderbolt Ignition. If so, carb models sounded the alarm constantly with the key in the 'run' position until the ICM (igntion control module) is told there is adequate engine oil pressure from the oil pressure sensor. Fuel injected models were smarter and understood that with the engine off, oil pressure is not really possible, thus fuel injected models had 2 beeps after performing a self diagnostics at key on to indicate all is well to the operator. If memory serves I think the MerCruiser 5.7L carb was the base engine with probably Bravo 3 as standard but maybe Alpha 1 for drive option. Engine for engine, the Bravo 3 would have outperformed the Alpha all day long for thrust, tracking and fuel efficiency. Example of carb'd MerCruiser 5.7L (350 cid) circa 1998 Example of MerCruiser 5.7L EFI (350 cid) throttle body
  7. Engine does not need to be running to display actual engine hours off the tachometer. If for some reason the hours won't cycle through at key on, maybe the engine hours are not set to display.
  8. Based on your observations, I think the carb is the likely culprit, probably from ethanol based fuel. If this is the case, I HIGHLY recommend purging the fuel tank of all remaining fuel as the fuel may have already undergone phase separation. On my own boat I got rid of the stock 2 bbl Mercarb (pretty much the same as Merc TKS carb) and installed a MerCruiser Weber 4 bbl (aka Edelbrock 1409) and Edelbrock marine intake - linkages, fuel hose, etc. you can source from 1995 5.7L MerCruiser Weber 4 bbl equipped parts list. This option certainly costs more than a carb rebuild though. I personally find the Weber 4 bbl offers superior starting and operation to the 2 bbl Mercarb or TKS variant - just my opinion though. One thing I do recommend first is running the engine off a 6 gallon marine fuel tank with fresh fuel and Seafoam added for testing to help eliminate bad fuel or clogged fuel vent problem. 6 gallons won't take you very far though...probably take several refills in a row to get a real idea of where the problem is. Also recommend replacing the distributor cap and rotor kit - Mercury / Quicksilver part # 805759T3 / Q3 and 8 new NGK BPR6EFS spark plugs - gap at 0.045". (NGK stock # 3623) Also change the water separating fuel filter - Mercury / Quicksilver 35-8802893T or Q Chris
  9. Mercury did make a change from their supplier but I can't recall what the remedy was...anodizing the interior of the pump?
  10. Hmm, I've never had a problem with the Pela 650 hand pump lasting several hundred oil changes back when I was turning wrenches. So long as the engine oil is warm, I've had no issues sucking the oil out of the dipstick tube using a 6" long 5/16" I.D. piece of fuel hose to mate the dipstick tube and Pela hose together. Recommend Volvo's 10w40 full synthetic and their oil filter. Don't forget to change the water separating fuel filter and the gear oil. Take care to use Volvo's gear oil and to not overfill the drive oil.
  11. I'd recommend looking for one that has a Volvo V8-380 or V8-430 - uses a GM LS based 6.0L V8 that is a good deal lighter than the MerCruiser 8.2L Mag or Mag HO. (502 cid old school GM based big block V8) Avoid a salt water boat if you can as they will require extra costs for maintenance vs a fresh water only 257 SSx. Really nice boat. Regardless of Merc or Volvo power, highly recommend having the drive pulled and the engine alignment and transom bellows inspected. Nice to know if you have any problems there such as a leaking yoke and yoke seal. Also you say highly recommend getting one with the optional arch. Adding underwater lights at the transom is very easy given the space at the transom and engine compartment. LED lighting in the arch I thought was standard. Might even go from blue to white to red? https://www.tradeboats.com.au/trailerboat-reviews/boats/1302/chaparral-275-ssx-bowrider-review-video Very nice running hull for its class size in rough water like the Great Lakes and St. Lawrence like to offer up. If I had the bucks, this boat would be on my short list to buy. Have fun shopping! Chris
  12. Hmm, I'll have to think on this for a bit. Do recommend pulling the drives off to see if any signs of water in the u-joint bellows. I am going to assume the tech replaced the transom bellows along with the square/square steering shaft, seal and gimbal ring on both sides? If so, did he install the new style water intake hose fitting? Only ask as I recall that 270 Sig model to be quite tight for access behind the engines and maybe installing the new style hose fitting is not even possible. Here is a picture of what this new style hose kit looks like that is included with Mercury / Quicksilver bellows repair kit 8M0095485 - THIS IS OF COURSE FOR MERCRUISER MODELS THAT USE A BRAVO DRIVE - DO YOU HAVE STANDARD ALPHA 1 OR OPTIONAL BRAVO 3? I honestly can't recall if the Alpha 1 drives came on anything but the twin MerCruiser 1.7L diesel L4 engines for the 270 Sig at that time...only ever driven them with twin 4.3L or 5.0L MPI Bravo 3 and the one I test drove in Gan with the twin 1.7L diesels that had Alpha's. Lastly, HIGHLY recommend to torque the 2 upper gimbal ring bolts to 70 lb-ft every year for the later style and larger sized bolts which I believe your boat came with. NOTE: all replacement gimbal rings from Mercury come with the larger sized nuts regardless of year of Bravo. Parts to be torqued at # 20 and # 23 or course. Mercury says its very critical to retorque these 2 nuts within 20 hours of replacing a gimbal ring too.
  13. Shepherd1

    23 suncoast

    That bi-fold door is not so nice in the rain...let's just say that your observations IMHO are spot on. Regarding the new Mercury V8 Verado's I just feel they are technologically superior to the Yamaha offerings. Super quiet, smooth, powerful and very good on fuel - not that the Yamaha's don't have those attributes, but the Mercury's take it to the next level.
  14. Shepherd1

    23 suncoast

    Totally agree. Know for sure I would take a 250 Suncoast over a BW 230 Vantage given the way I use a boat. About as close as one can get for an apples-to-apples comparison. Would prefer to have the option to go with Mercury's new 300 hp V8 Verado vs the Yamaha F300 V6 on the Suncoast though. Would also like a windlass option on the Suncoast. Chaparral's ergonomics are so much better too; for the price of the 230 Vantage, I can't believe BW still makes the drivers seat so ungainly and uncomfortable. Especially with the bolster in the upright position.
  15. Hmmmm, that Gen III fuel filter IMHO does not look bad...I've seen them look worse with no running issues on a given engine. I have spoken with Michelle in the past and found her to be very sharp and knowledgeable. Having said that, it's the bottom disc filter that is the most important regarding routine replacement according to Merc school teachers I've had. For reference, Mercury part #'s 35-892665 and 35-8M0093688. These filters of course will be included with the new Gen III fuel pump assy. Do know this; if there is no clutter around the engine, access for a mechanic is excellent on the 250/270 Signature vs the vast majority of boats in its class or even compared against a bowrider, etc. I've worked on the exact same boat as yours that had a MerCruiser 8.2 Mag (a rebadged late model 270 Sig) and there was still room for access. (just so people know, boaters from the Belle Province like their hp) Seeing they're going to have the Gen III module off, I STRONGLY urge you to have the seawater pump impeller replaced at the same time. They're going to be in there anyway and the fuel pump assy usually needs to be removed first to do the impeller. An added bonus that you have VesselView7 on the boat - from you description of symptoms this pretty much lets us know the issue is mechanical in nature vs a bad sensor, etc. Lastly, a question I have is whether anyone has run the engine on a shop outboard fuel tank? Granted a 6.6 gallon sized fuel tank will NOT allow a long boat ride but this is where I'd start. 2nd thing I'd do if that made zero difference is reset the rotor indexing. The HVS distributor (high voltage switch) is VERY sensitive to this for timing. I'll see if I can find the instructions for this later today. Chris
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