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Shepherd1

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About Shepherd1

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    1000 Islands, Ontario

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  1. Shepherd1

    2000 216SSI Windshield - Anyone have one?

    Hmmm, that STBD windshield might be the exact same as say a 2005 220 SSi. Might try calling Cecil Marine; they must have run into this scenario many times. Won't be cheap unfortunately if TM can make you a replacement, and does take some time to be manufactured. Chris
  2. Shepherd1

    Dumb question #16 - How many Impellers do I have?

    I've found that impeller design to usually only last 3 seasons in fresh water; anything after that is bonus. Given that particular style of pump, if a person wants to replace the impeller as maintenance, than use Mercury part # 46-807151A14 which is the impeller and plastic body kit vs. just the impeller itself. NOTE: during re&re of the impeller, great care needs to be taken to ensure the intake hose goes on the correct impeller housing port to prevent a possible overheat. That pump was designed for both left hand and right hand rotation engines, vs newer MerCruiser pump designs which are designed for left hand rotation engines only - these later engines use 2 different sized ports, so hoses can't be installed incorrectly. I usually tape/tag the intake hose and use a white marker on the old housing so I don't make a dumb mistake. http://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serial/5.7L_EFI_GM_350_V-8_1998/809500+98/2704-150
  3. Shepherd1

    2350 SX help

    Never heard or run across this, and I've been in the marine industry in the Great White North for 20+ years now...as mentioned above, we essentially follow the same rules as US for boating. I would get the engine, transom and drive serial numbers, and do a check that way. I don't know what the boat has for power, but if MerCruiser, the engine serial will be on a ss plate riveted to the block just above the starter. Even if found however, entirely possible the engine is not original to the boat, but if it is, and everything was registered properly back in the day, you may be able to get the original HIN #. If you find an engine serial number, send me a PM. Chris
  4. Shepherd1

    SS Prop on 21 H2O?

    I haven't driven the 21' Sport, but I do know the 18' and 19' H20 would porpoise very easily and would take pretty much zero trim. Just a guess, but I'm thinking a combination of the boat being generally light in weight and the hull pad design. The phased out 216 SSi WT which on paper is close to the 21 Sport H20 for sure would take trim, and it used a hull pad too, but was heavier. The early MY 2000's 216 SSi which used a conventional rounded hull bottom would take a lot more trim and rode a little nicer in rough water than the later 216 SSi WT, but was slower to plane and required more power to stay on plane. On any Chaparral's I've driven that used a hull pad, (only some of the cruisers now that don't) installing a stainless steel prop was a marked improvement over aluminum. I would try a different prop such as a Mercury Revolution 4. Gives tremendous holding in the corners, and may allow for more stern lift vs bow lift in comparison to your current prop. Hull pads provide excellent performance numbers as well as little bow rise and quick planing times, but do require a prop that is very resistant to cavitation and ventilation. The good news IMHO is that a very aggressive ss prop is actually an option. Do know that the Rev4 is a better alternative than say the regular Mercury Enertia version for your boat. The Enertia ECO version would be an option to consider too. Given your current set up and RPM which is near perfect, try a 19" pitch, in right hand rotation of course. Part # 48-857026A46 - ONLY USE WITH SOLID PVS PLUGS THOUGH! An older discontinued Mercury Offshore Series 4 blade ss prop in 19" pitch would work well too if looking for a used option. For the money, installing Smart Tabs with probably only 40-60 lb actuator strength would probably help A LOT. NOTE: if a person were to go with Smart Tabs, then I would HIGHLY recommend getting the optional Pro Troller flip up brackets. The reason for this is for wake boarding, etc. sometimes tabs can have an adverse affect on wake shape. The Pro Troller bracket option would allow for the tabs to be raised up and out of the way essentially out of the water (the exact opposite of what those brackets were designed for) The ultimate cure for porpoising would be to install a proper trim tab system such as ZipWake, but we're talking big money. Smart Tabs and Rev4 prop will probably achieve 90% of what a ZipWake system would provide, at 1/3 the cost, especially if you purchased a used prop.
  5. Shepherd1

    New 2019 H2O Sport

    I haven't driven the 21' Sport, but I do know the 18' and 19' H20 would porpoise very easily and would take pretty much zero trim. Just a guess, but I'm thinking a combination of the boat being generally light in weight and the hull pad design. The phased out 216 SSi WT which on paper is close to the 21 Sport H20 for sure would take trim, and it used a hull pad too, but was heavier. The early MY 2000's 216 SSi which used a conventional rounded hull bottom would take a lot more trim and rode a little nicer in rough water than the later 216 SSi WT, but was slower to plane and required more power to stay on plane. If the boat was mine, I would try a different prop such as a Mercury Revolution 4. Gives tremendous holding in the corners, and may allow for more stern lift vs bow lift in comparison to your current prop. Hull pads provide excellent performance numbers as well as little bow rise and quick planing times, but do require a prop that is very resistant to cavitation and ventilation. For the money, installing Smart Tabs with probably only 40-60 lb actuator strength would probably help A LOT. NOTE: if a person were to go with Smart Tabs, then I would HIGHLY recommend getting the optional Pro Troller flip up brackets. The reason for this is for wake boarding, etc. sometimes tabs can have an adverse affect on wake shape. The Pro Troller bracket option would allow for the tabs to be raised up and out of the way essentially out of the water (the exact opposite of what those brackets were designed for) The ultimate cure for porpoising would be to install a proper trim tab system such as ZipWake, but we're talking big money. Smart Tabs and Rev4 prop will probably achieve 90% of what a ZipWake system would provide, at 1/3 the cost, especially if you purchased a used prop.
  6. Shepherd1

    Looking for input on bow riders

    Can understand why you don't use the bow door ; given the Great White North, the bow door sure is a nice option for cooler days or evenings to help extend the boating season - keeps the wife happier at any rate! Very nice upgrade on the stereo too.
  7. Shepherd1

    Looking for input on bow riders

    Can you give me a little more back ground on the vent / filter issues?
  8. Shepherd1

    Gear Oil vs Engine Oil + Oil Filter

    Great care will need to be taken to ensure the gear oil level is not too high on the drive oil dipstick located on the top cap. Typically I recommend removing the rear upper drive cover and filling the oil until it comes our the rear vent hole in the upper driveshaft housing vs. using the dipstick. Reason for this is it's all to easy to overfill using the dipstick. Over filling the drive can result in gear oil being super heated and then forced out the yoke seal and into the u-joint bellows during operation until the oil level stabilizes. Frustrating that there are no apparent videos on how to perform this work. Maybe someday I'll get ambitious and make some videos. Really important to pull the drive off every 2nd year too; more often if more than 50 hours per season. Chris
  9. Shepherd1

    Boat purchase

    So true sir, and sage advice as always. We work on Mercury outboard joystick, MerCruiser inboard joystick, stern drive Axius and Zeus pod, Volvo sterndrive joystick and IPS as well as Yamaha joystick equipped boats. Yamaha essentially uses Volvo's system, and I generally find fewer problems with the Volvo vs Mercury - FAR few issues for sure with IPS vs Zeus... Highly recommend EVC Tow mode option on new Volvo LS based Gen V engines - those engines are STRONG and lots of usable power even at 3/4 throttle.
  10. Shepherd1

    Looking for input on bow riders

    No idea on the last SSi boat being curtailed for 2019 - would be 10 years in 2019 since WT line was introduced. Back when Chaparral made the 196 and 216 SSi WT models, with everything being equal they were generally quieter and a little nicer riding vs. same hull length H20 offerings - miss those boats, especially the 216 WT. Haven't drive the 21 H20, but on paper it looks to be nearly on par ride wise with the 216 WT which was quite good. Just me who used to be a Merc guy, if I was looking at a 21' H20 and wanted stern drive power, I would personally opt for the Volvo 4.3 Gen V 240 hp option - too bad the 280 hp V6 version isn't offered. I have very little doubt the 240 hp version would out perform the older GM 305 cid 270 hp V8 (those new GM LS based Gen V engines are STRONG) and with all aluminum heads and block, plus variable valve timing and direct injection have a superior power to weight and torque band than the MerCruiser cast iron multi-port fuel injected offerings. Better fuel economy too. If getting an H20, highly recommend getting the following: (Deluxe package at the very least) - folding tower - upgraded driver and passenger bucket seat options - swim platform mat - bow walk-thru door - storage under PORT dash - bow filler cushion Hope you have fun shopping. Chris
  11. Shepherd1

    Towing tube from 264

    I've used booster ball sometimes when towing tubes that have a tendency to keep tow line submerged in the wake, but prefer not to. Personally though I'd just use the transom tow eye mentioned by Curt above and go with the lightest tow rope you can find. We've towed 3 person tubes with some heavy people just using standard weight O'Brien tow line that we've been using for more than a few years with no problems. Heavier line just drags in the water which I find annoying.
  12. One thing to ensure is that the engine and thermostat housing surfaces are clean so that the base gasket with the brass rivets can ground the thermostat housing itself properly. If this doesn't happen, you can get odd or no temperature reading for the analog temp gauge. The 2 bolts sometimes cannot get a good ground for the temp sensor and sender by themselves, hence the reason for the brass rivets in the base gasket.
  13. Shepherd1

    Two Beeps!

    Be sure not to over tighten the gear clamp; only snug up or else you risk compressing the male terminals.
  14. Shepherd1

    Water In Fuel

    If you're exposed to ethanol based fuel, than I concur that removing all the fuel from the tank is the recommended route. Not cheap or fun of course to have removed, but possible the gas has suffered from phase separation. Should this be the case, and you remove the watery substance from the fuel, the remaining fuel could have very low octane, with the possibility of causing detonation to the pistons. Ethanol of course is used to raise the octane level, and in such a scenario, the ethanol vents off to the atmosphere, leaving octane depleted fuel behind. Up here in the Great White North, marinas can typically get non-ethanol fuel so we don't see that many ethanol issues such as phase separation thankfully. Flip side getting ethanol free fuel on the water is $ 1.99 CDN a litre or roughly $ 5.83 in USD per US gallon. Suppliers love to hit us with fuel hikes just in time for May 2-4 weekend, etc.
  15. Shepherd1

    Two Beeps!

    Wiring harness issues are fun. Possible the error code mentioned earlier was showing fuel pump circuit high or low? These engines are not designed to shut down while running due to a sensor failure with the possible exception of a crank position sensor. Makes me think error code was showing fuel pump circuit issue which would probably show if the relay wasn't getting power to keep the fuel pumps going while the engine was running. If a MerCruiser, it is my understanding that even the newer engines ECM has no idea what the fuel pump is doing. Maybe the latest Volvo direct injected engines have an idea what the fuel pump is doing, but I don't know that. Wire harness was loose? On the 10 pin connector itself where the engine harness plugs into the harness for the key switch on top of the engine, or loose where fuel pump relays, or somewhere else? The 10 pin connector type are known to be problematic; I typically use a small flat screwdriver to widen the male terminals so they contact the female slots properly for the cannon plug. Later style 14 pin harness that MerCruiser brought out around 2007 or so has proven to be much more robust. ]/[]=-/
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