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Shepherd1

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About Shepherd1

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    First Sea Lord

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    1000 Islands, Ontario

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  1. Shepherd1

    My first boat "Not starting" situation

    You'll have MerCruiser Thunderbolt IV ignition, and as was mentioned earlier, you can have spark at the coil but nothing further on where it matters. Highly recommend you perform the following Thunderbolt IV trouble shooting to help identify the real problem. NOTE: should the ignition sensor (located under the distributor prove to be the problem, HIGHLY recommend the following parts: 1 of 892150K02 or Q02 - Mercury or Quicksilver ignition sensor (newer style) 1 of 805759T3 or Q3 - Mercury or Quicksilver distributor cap and rotor kit V8 (rotor typically gets bent during removal - also apply some grease to the 4 brass screws holding the distributor cap down) Link below to trouble shooting as I could not attach a picture... https://bpi.ebasicpower.com/faq/MERCSB92-11.htm Link below to look up of parts. NOTE: some models had the ignition amplifier (which controls engine timing) mounted typically to the exhaust manifold, while some other models mounted them on the back of the distributor. https://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serialize(value)/5.7L_2_BBL._GM_350_V-8_1988-1995/816596/1014-110 https://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serialize(value)/5.7L_2_BBL._GM_350_V-8_1988-1995/816596/1014-100 https://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serialize(value)/5.7L_2_BBL._GM_350_V-8_1988-1995/816596/1014-90 Hope this helps. Chris
  2. Shepherd1

    Help with Engine Shutdown, Fuel Filter?

    Good to hear! Just to clarify, this is the 90 amp fuse on the starter motor itself? Part # 88-79023a91
  3. Shepherd1

    Rub Rail Replacement

    I don't mean to be difficult, but one option you may wish to consider is installing the later style ss insert and white gunnel molding used on say a MY 2008 210 SSi. Essentially the same mold and hull as yours but the interior deck is different. SS rub rail insert lengths should be the same for the 2130 SS and 210 SSi. Cecil Marine could probably give you a quote on the parts. All the ss inserts are the same part # and length, except each model uses 1 special length ss insert that matches the gap left. I know for a fact the factory extended swim platform of the 2008 210 SSi fits the 2130 / 2135 SS like a glove - again, Chaparral simply used your hull for the 210 SS / SSi models. Taco Marine built the older vinyl rub rail for the 2130 SS models and I wouldn't be surprised if they make the current style too. NOTE: on the factory ESP, they simply installed end caps to finish the look where the rub rail ends. The last time I worked on replacing rub rail (newer style) we used a large tub of very hot water to help the white rub rail bend around the contours on the hull. http://tacomarine.com/rub-rail http://tacomarine.com/v21-9811
  4. Shepherd1

    Loose Bravo III drive

    If a person has had the gimbal ring and square / square steering shaft replaced recently, it is EXTREMELY important to get the upper bolts torqued after 20 hours, and then at the end of each and every season. If this does not happen, one can expect premature wear of the new components. Picture below shows the u-bolt design. Newer style uses larger bolts and nuts that I believe need 73 lb-ft where the older u-bolt asked for 58 lb-ft - I could very very well be wrong on the exact torque specs. I also forget the size of socket difference between older style and newer...9/16" vs 5/8"?
  5. Shepherd1

    Storm damage - Can I get some help?

    I believe the 2006 Signature used a fibreglass arch (same boat as say 2001 280 Signature) unlike the 2006 280 Signature which used an aluminum arch. Probably be a serious PITA, but the fibreglass shop may be able to make a mold from another 290 Signature or earlier 280 Sig. If memory serves, Chaparral made that fibreglass arch in house but maybe I'm suffering from early signs of dementia... Depending on your arch and canvas, I would personally go with the 2008 style 290 Signature arch and canvas as Chaparral made some changes to the way the canvas and track integrated together. May not be that readily apparent, but the 2 links below may help to show what I'm talking about. So far as I understand, the 2006 and 2008 290 Signature used the same arch but canvas was different design, just as say a 2001 280 Signature used a completely different arch canvas design that was no where near as nice as your current design was. 2006 290 Signature https://ca.boats.com/power-boats/2006-chaparral-signature-290-6869906/?refSource=standard listing 2008 290 Signature https://ca.boats.com/power-boats/2008-chaparral-290-signature-6913884/?refSource=standard listing
  6. Shepherd1

    220 ssi with Bravo 3 high altitude

    double post
  7. Shepherd1

    220 ssi with Bravo 3 high altitude

    I think somewhere around 2005 or so Chaparral switched over to the 2.20 gear ratio as factory default from the 2.00 gear ratio on the 220 SSi with MerCruiser 350 Mag MPI power. Besides dropping down 4" of pitch, the other thing I would recommend is putting your drive in the 'Bravo 1 position' to aid in faster planing with less bow rise. I have never found any adverse handling on that hull from doing so; one of the very best hulls out there IMHO even against new makes and models of that size range. NOTE: will require you to recalibrate the trim sender on the STBD side of the gimbal ring to allow the trim gauge to read accurately if going from Bravo 3 to Bravo 1 position.
  8. Shepherd1

    1994 Chaparral 190 SL Limited

    Here's a few pictures of what the boat looks like with an aftermarket swim platform. Totally transforms that model... http://www.swimplatforms.com/showImages.php?mk=935
  9. Shepherd1

    Right spark plugs?

    W is right on as per usual. NOTE: NGK BPR6EFS for MerCruiser 3.0L Carb roughly from 1996-97 to even present day 3.0L EFI EC (catalytic converter) variants. AC-Delco MR43LTS (MerCruiser part # 33-862029) 1.14 mm (0.045" gap) aka and I recommend using NGK BPR6EFS gapped at 0.045" (MerCruiser part # 33-816336Q) For 3.0L Carb with EST ignition (electronic spark timing) and all 3.0L MPI EC models I highly recommend replacing the cap and rotor kit too; cheap and really easy to replace as corrosion on the underside terminals can be an issue. Mercury part # 811635K2 or Quicksilver part # 811635Q2 Here's a picture below of what the EST ignition system looks like. Standard from 1996-97 to present day, and optional before then.
  10. Shepherd1

    2000 216SSI Windshield - Anyone have one?

    Hmmm, that STBD windshield might be the exact same as say a 2005 220 SSi. Might try calling Cecil Marine; they must have run into this scenario many times. Won't be cheap unfortunately if TM can make you a replacement, and does take some time to be manufactured. Chris
  11. Shepherd1

    Dumb question #16 - How many Impellers do I have?

    I've found that impeller design to usually only last 3 seasons in fresh water; anything after that is bonus. Given that particular style of pump, if a person wants to replace the impeller as maintenance, than use Mercury part # 46-807151A14 which is the impeller and plastic body kit vs. just the impeller itself. NOTE: during re&re of the impeller, great care needs to be taken to ensure the intake hose goes on the correct impeller housing port to prevent a possible overheat. That pump was designed for both left hand and right hand rotation engines, vs newer MerCruiser pump designs which are designed for left hand rotation engines only - these later engines use 2 different sized ports, so hoses can't be installed incorrectly. I usually tape/tag the intake hose and use a white marker on the old housing so I don't make a dumb mistake. http://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serial/5.7L_EFI_GM_350_V-8_1998/809500+98/2704-150
  12. Shepherd1

    2350 SX help

    Never heard or run across this, and I've been in the marine industry in the Great White North for 20+ years now...as mentioned above, we essentially follow the same rules as US for boating. I would get the engine, transom and drive serial numbers, and do a check that way. I don't know what the boat has for power, but if MerCruiser, the engine serial will be on a ss plate riveted to the block just above the starter. Even if found however, entirely possible the engine is not original to the boat, but if it is, and everything was registered properly back in the day, you may be able to get the original HIN #. If you find an engine serial number, send me a PM. Chris
  13. Shepherd1

    SS Prop on 21 H2O?

    I haven't driven the 21' Sport, but I do know the 18' and 19' H20 would porpoise very easily and would take pretty much zero trim. Just a guess, but I'm thinking a combination of the boat being generally light in weight and the hull pad design. The phased out 216 SSi WT which on paper is close to the 21 Sport H20 for sure would take trim, and it used a hull pad too, but was heavier. The early MY 2000's 216 SSi which used a conventional rounded hull bottom would take a lot more trim and rode a little nicer in rough water than the later 216 SSi WT, but was slower to plane and required more power to stay on plane. On any Chaparral's I've driven that used a hull pad, (only some of the cruisers now that don't) installing a stainless steel prop was a marked improvement over aluminum. I would try a different prop such as a Mercury Revolution 4. Gives tremendous holding in the corners, and may allow for more stern lift vs bow lift in comparison to your current prop. Hull pads provide excellent performance numbers as well as little bow rise and quick planing times, but do require a prop that is very resistant to cavitation and ventilation. The good news IMHO is that a very aggressive ss prop is actually an option. Do know that the Rev4 is a better alternative than say the regular Mercury Enertia version for your boat. The Enertia ECO version would be an option to consider too. Given your current set up and RPM which is near perfect, try a 19" pitch, in right hand rotation of course. Part # 48-857026A46 - ONLY USE WITH SOLID PVS PLUGS THOUGH! An older discontinued Mercury Offshore Series 4 blade ss prop in 19" pitch would work well too if looking for a used option. For the money, installing Smart Tabs with probably only 40-60 lb actuator strength would probably help A LOT. NOTE: if a person were to go with Smart Tabs, then I would HIGHLY recommend getting the optional Pro Troller flip up brackets. The reason for this is for wake boarding, etc. sometimes tabs can have an adverse affect on wake shape. The Pro Troller bracket option would allow for the tabs to be raised up and out of the way essentially out of the water (the exact opposite of what those brackets were designed for) The ultimate cure for porpoising would be to install a proper trim tab system such as ZipWake, but we're talking big money. Smart Tabs and Rev4 prop will probably achieve 90% of what a ZipWake system would provide, at 1/3 the cost, especially if you purchased a used prop.
  14. Shepherd1

    New 2019 H2O Sport

    I haven't driven the 21' Sport, but I do know the 18' and 19' H20 would porpoise very easily and would take pretty much zero trim. Just a guess, but I'm thinking a combination of the boat being generally light in weight and the hull pad design. The phased out 216 SSi WT which on paper is close to the 21 Sport H20 for sure would take trim, and it used a hull pad too, but was heavier. The early MY 2000's 216 SSi which used a conventional rounded hull bottom would take a lot more trim and rode a little nicer in rough water than the later 216 SSi WT, but was slower to plane and required more power to stay on plane. If the boat was mine, I would try a different prop such as a Mercury Revolution 4. Gives tremendous holding in the corners, and may allow for more stern lift vs bow lift in comparison to your current prop. Hull pads provide excellent performance numbers as well as little bow rise and quick planing times, but do require a prop that is very resistant to cavitation and ventilation. For the money, installing Smart Tabs with probably only 40-60 lb actuator strength would probably help A LOT. NOTE: if a person were to go with Smart Tabs, then I would HIGHLY recommend getting the optional Pro Troller flip up brackets. The reason for this is for wake boarding, etc. sometimes tabs can have an adverse affect on wake shape. The Pro Troller bracket option would allow for the tabs to be raised up and out of the way essentially out of the water (the exact opposite of what those brackets were designed for) The ultimate cure for porpoising would be to install a proper trim tab system such as ZipWake, but we're talking big money. Smart Tabs and Rev4 prop will probably achieve 90% of what a ZipWake system would provide, at 1/3 the cost, especially if you purchased a used prop.
  15. Shepherd1

    Looking for input on bow riders

    Can understand why you don't use the bow door ; given the Great White North, the bow door sure is a nice option for cooler days or evenings to help extend the boating season - keeps the wife happier at any rate! Very nice upgrade on the stereo too.
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