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About Shepherd1

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    First Sea Lord

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    1000 Islands, Ontario

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  1. If transom bellows are all original, there won't be much left to them - all should be badly cracked from age and exposure. They generally last 5-7 years for fresh water use. Recommend the following: - rear Alpha shift cable - Mercury part # 865436A03 (will give you a spare mounting gasket and shift bellows for same price as 865436A02 for cable alone) - complete Alpha Gen II transom bellows kit - Mercury part # 803099T1 (comes with u-joint bellows, shift bellows, exhaust bellows, gimbal bearing, water hose and mounting gasket kit) - Alpha trim sender kit - Mercury part 805320A03 - bellows adhesive - Mercury / Quicksilver part # 91-86166Q1 - Alpha drive tool to hold rear shift cable in place - 91-865232 - cheap, and worth every penny!! NOTE: this job is best left to someone who is familiar with this work such as a decent marine tech who knows how to properly set up the rear shift cable. If this work is undertaken, highly recommend that you ensure the exhaust bellows vs. easier to install exhaust tube is installed. Accordion like exhaust bellows does a much better job of limiting engine exhaust noise, especially while cruising and trying to carry on a conversation. While the drive is off, have them change the seawater pump impeller too. Mercury part # 8M0100527 or Quicksilver part # 8M0100526. Will also require the gear oil to be changed at same time. Recommend Mercury / Quicksilver High Performance Gear Lube, not Mercury / Quicksilver Premium Gear Lube. Lastly, recommend changing the shift and throttle cable from remote control to engine / shift plate too. Replace with whatever foot length is required, say a Mercury Platinum version that replaces 877773a13 for example. Your current Teleflex cables will have part numbers stamped into them.
  2. So, a 1988 MerCruiser 5.0 LX was essentially the same thing as a 350 Magnum of its day, except being a 305 cid, and 350 Mag used forged pistons. 5.0 LX had 230 hp I believe. A little light for hp and torque for that hull, but gets the job done. Boat should look terrific when you're finished! I'd do a full tune up of that Thunderbolt IV ignition and clean the carburetor MerCruiser part # 823426A1 for Quadra Jet carb repair kit. MerCruiser part # 805759Q3 or T3 for V8 distributor cap and rotor (Quicksilver and Mercury labelled parts, but exact same) MerCruiser part # 892150Q02 or K02 for ignition sensor if you have the older ring terminal type (goes under the rotor) NGK BR6FS spark plugs 0.035" gap Verify engine timing of 8 degree BTDC (being a Thunderbolt IV system, you don't have to place the engine into base timing mode like you would for a later model Thunderbolt V) 19" pitch prop is probably factory, but I would think a 350 Mag would use 1.50 ratio and perhaps a 1.62 gear ratio for your Alpha 1 MR to compensate for less power. Just a guess.
  3. Maybe you're getting taken for a ride. Hate to ask, but what exactly is the major malfunction with the drive? So much depends on what is really wrong that is causing the shift problem. Worn shift spool, bent shift fork or rod, worn dog clutch, old and stretched rear shift cable? Remove the shift assist from the shift plate on the engine and then check again. Multiple drive impacts that has broken or compromised the teeth on the gears?? So often I find a person needs to find a tech who is very handy with setting up the rear shift cable for an Alpha drive, be it an older MR or later Gen II series like yours. Have seen more boats than I care to think of come to gas dock for fuel, or in for servicing that do not have the rear shift cable set up properly, or rear shift cable in dire need of replacement. Should you really need a new lower half or even a complete drive, than I would just go with an SEI unit(s) for the price and bolt it on. We're talking an Alpha though, so if I was working on the unit and couldn't figure out what is causing the root shift problem, I would install a known good Alpha drive on the boat and then test again to see if any grinding issues reveal themselves. If same issues show up on known good drive, then hey, problem lies in the rear shift cable being worn, very poor rear shift cable set up, or perhaps a bent shift fork on the bell housing, or faulty shift assist. NOTE: if you need a new complete drive or even just the upper half, then knowing the correct drive gear ratio is crucial. If you have 5.0L MPI version (260 hp) than the gear ratio is almost certainly the stock 1.62:1 for the 215 SSi cuddy. 5.0L carb I believe used a 1.81 ratio in that boat. Not trying to complicate matters here, but how old is the rear shift cable and transom bellows? (u-joint, exhaust and shift cable bellows) Lastly, if the shift and throttle cables from the remote control to the engine are original, than I would replace the factory Teleflex cables with Mercury Platinum Gen I series of the correct length. Should the remote control itself be the problem, than I recommend installing a Mercury Gen II shifter and Platinum Gen II cables. Here is a guy who I feel knows his business and makes a lot of sense to me.
  4. LOVE this area! That is a great synergy of drone tech and video following a really nice boat. I could be mistaken, but some of the video appears to be taken from the Lake Fleet island group by Gananoque. Hope you come to visit the area again. Chris
  5. Call Cecil Marine. They've been doing it a long time, and know their stuff.
  6. All MerCruiser fuel injected 350 Mag engines from roughly 1995 until replacement by their current 6.2L V8 engines day were actually multi-port injection models (MPI). Understand what you're saying though in that all other stern drive MerCruiser 5.7L EFI engines were throttle body injection. (aka TBI in automotive world) 'Magnum' in Mercury speak for that era simply meant their top tier engine for a given cubic inch displacement. Earlier 350 Mag engines were of course equipped with a carburetor before being replaced by MPI in mid '90's. As you say, all big block 454/502 V8 EFI engines in either EFI or Magnum tuned versions used multi-port injection from their introduction in the early '90's. Early '90's version 350 Mag MPI with Lingenfelter design intake manifold (similar to 454/502 Mag EFI/MPI engines) Cool looking intake but lack of remote oil filter, serpentine belt and inboard vs outboard mounted fuel injectors not so cool for servicing... 1998 era version 350 Map MPI
  7. If you have MerCruiser power, the transducer will be supplied by Mercury, and should have a 20 degree tilted element in it. Should have an arrow on the new and old transducer showing to point towards the bow for installation. You should be able to install this yourself with not too much problem. WILL NEED THE BOAT OUT OF THE WATER! (Mercury uses its own proprietary frequency vs. Garmin, Raymarine, etc. - transducers all made by Airmar I believe to client spec) Don't have to worry about sealing, as o-rings and simply snugging up the transducer into the thru-hull base do the work. FWI, in your owners kit you should see a cap kit. This is if the transducer itself gets broken or needs to be removed for some reason, installing the cap will allow you to use the boat. Couple of things to check first: * ensure that the depth feature has been turned on on the tachometer settings. If this feature is not turned on, the transducer could be working fine, but the tachometer will not know to look for it so to speak. Probably already been done, but I recommend checking this first anyway. * ensure that the transducer cable is connected to the engine data link connector. On MerCruiser's this serves as both the plug for diagnostics and transducer. A tech needs to disconnect the transducer first to plug in laptop, DDT, etc. and then reconnect when they're done. Again on MerCruiser's this will be a 4 wire plug that should have a green tag that reads diagnostics/transducer. Sometimes that connector is located behind the distributor. Again for MerCruiser power. I don't know set up for Volvo.
  8. Can't believe I forgot to recommend changing exhaust flappers at the same time as engine re&re. Good call sir.
  9. Yeah, with the prep work you've done, they should be able to pull the engine out okay; maintenance as you say is a PITA with engine in the boat. Would recommend having them inspect the dist cap and rotor with the engine out, especially if you have a fuel injected engine. I know the hours are low, but corrosion on underside of distributor cap is what I'm thinking may be found. That entire distributor assy is essentially made out of plastic, and the ears for the dist. cap screws can break off. Best to inspect and/or replace when access is easy. If they do install a new cap, ensure it has the brass terminals, not aluminum like automotive or Volvo Penta use.
  10. Unfortunate that the digital SmartCraft gauges in your boat won't provide block water psi numbers; sadly that function was never turned 'on' from VeeThree. Of all the engine sensor info I'd want want to look at, that would be the one along with temperature... Sensor the mechanic is talking about is most likely the water pressure sensor located on the power steering cooler directly behind the distributor cap. Think it takes a 1" deep socket to re & re. Let us assume for a moment you're actually getting proper water block pressure. This sensor could be giving a low psi reading to the ECM causing the 'hard' alarm to come even though the engine may not be overheating. Mercury part # 8M6000623 and this job you could do yourself if you wanted to take a chance on the part. That cooler is made of brass, so don't over tighten the new sensor. Older water pressure sensors had a white body and water would get into the circuitry resulting in incorrect info going to ECM. I haven't run across many problems with later black body style sensors in fresh water at least. Your engine almost certainly has the black version. Worn seawater pump and/or impeller is also quite likely. What are the engine temperatures when this problem occurs? Lastly, low voltage could be the problem, but ECM should have the horn emit a 'soft' alarm with beep...beep as a kind of early warning before going into a hard constant alarm. While under way, you should see roughly 13.8 - 14.2 for voltage on digital LCD read out on tachometer.
  11. Similar specs between the 2330 SS and 230 SS like 22 degree deadrise, but I believe they used different hulls. Certainly felt completely different in my experience when driving them; 2330 SS felt heavier like it was planted in the water but had a very capable ride, while the 230 SSi I found to be more responsive to course changes with an outstanding ride characteristic. Both are good in rough water for their respective class size. Like others, I just can't see the 2330 SS touching 50 MPH with that particular engine set up; too heavy. Here's a pdf showing a boat test of 2330 SS with 300 hp 7.4L (454 carb) with Bravo 1. Like the Sport seating on the 2330 SS you posted. Buckets though on the 230 SSi will be a lot more comfortable, and walk-thru transom never disappoints. I know you mentioned fishing, but please consider installing an ESP on either model (if the 230 SSi doesn't have it already) Bravo 3 sticks out a long way past the integrated swim platform and someone falling from the boat could get badly hurt. Just my opinion sir. Head compartment on the 2330 SS wasn't nearly as nice a set up as the 230 SSi, but you should be able to install a porta potti if wanted.
  12. For your particular set up, think you would really want to order the Blue Seas 7649 mini series kit instead of the 7650 larger sized switch. Should bolt right into the current battery switch panel on the boat. You'll just have to put the ACR component elsewhere.
  13. You're absolutely right in that the 210 SSi can be a bear for access, especially at the rear of the engine. For the carrier seal under the impeller, quite possible issue is from frozen water that put the seals on an angle allowing gear oil to leak out the weep hole on the drive. Recommend next fall to position the drive cavitation plate horizontal with the ground, and with the lanyard switch tripped, crank the engine for 5 seconds. Should hopefully purge most of the water from that area without hurting the impeller. On the alignment issue, what about putting and snugging the engine mounts back to where they were, and then checking alignment. Pull the alignment bar out, recording grease marks, and then lightly ticking the engine over with the key 90 degress. Repeat alignment check, remove bar, tick engine over 90 degrees, etc. until you have 4 points of the compass if you will checked. Often I find a coupler will give slightly different readings at the 4 different positions. I don't consider myself an expert on engine alignment by any means, but end game should be the alignment tool going in and out smoothly with minimal effort for all 4 points - 9 o'clock, 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions.
  14. Wow, that's a lot of serious work with the floor and stringers; well done! I'm a great believer in installing an extended swim platform on that boat, along with Sea Dek mat (or equivalent) on both the integrated and extended platforms. The integrated swim platform was angled and the non-skid used was kind of slippery IMHO, especially the storage lids. While Chaparral never made a factory ESP for that boat, they did for the 210 SSi, but sadly they have quit making that ESP. Leaves you with aftermarket option only, which in truth is a larger ESP anyway. Sea Dek can custom make a mat for the integrated and aftermarket swim platforms. We're going on our 6th year with our Sea Dek mat, and it has been terrific for added grip, comfort (especially on the knees) and looks. Example shown of Sea Dek on a 210 SSi with factory ESP (used the same hull as the 2130 SS, but slightly different deck and came with a cockpit liner) Sea Dek doesn't show the upper integrated mat on their website for the 210 SSi but they obviously have the pattern. Storage lids are certainly a different shape and size than that used on the 2130 SS. For trim tabs, could go with Nauticus Smart Tabs. Recommend only 60 lb actuators as the extended V plane hull design already adds a fair amount of stern lift. Standard sized 80 lb actuators for that size of boat I found produced too much bow steer and general bow down running angle. Cheapest and easiest option to install, and work well. Could also go with Lenco, Bennett, Zip Wake for added control but a lot more money. If you were to go with the Smart Tabs, highly recommend the optional hinges. Wish I had larger pictures, but photobucket makes that very difficult now. NOTE: if you were to install an extended swim platform and tabs, you have to ensure the support brackets for the platform are positioned so they don't interfere with trim tab placement or movement. Lastly, for a prop option, if you wish for the ventilation issue to go away, recommend a 4 blade ss prop such as Mercury Revolution 4, Vensura or older used Offshore series. We do a lot of tubing, etc. and found the Offshore series won't break loose. Have used 3 blade ss Mercury standard Enertia and it would break loose in hard cornering, but offered little better top speed. Keep the PVS holes solid with no holes. Try a 17" or maybe 19" pitch. Chris
  15. That particular model is essentially a rebadged 256 SSx. Believe it is possible for you find such a boat, but would have to ensure it has the optional hinged arch. Can tell on that 267 SSx by the 2 large ss screws at the base of the arch. NOTE: I don't know what the folded down arch height measurement is, and suspect it could be a rare option. 2012 267 SSx with standard arch mount (not able to lower arch) 2012 267 SSx with hinged arch option (2 large ss screws at base) Should you find such a boat but it needs new canvas, here's an option too: SSX Radar Arch&yearfrom=2011&yearto=2012&product=Bimini-Arch-Connection-OEM-T0&modelnotes=267SSX With Factory Radar Arch. OEM fabric/colors: Black Hope this helps. Chris