• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Shepherd1

  • Rank
    First Sea Lord

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    1000 Islands, Ontario

Recent Profile Visitors

5,031 profile views
  1. Be sure not to over tighten the gear clamp; only snug up or else you risk compressing the male terminals.
  2. If you're exposed to ethanol based fuel, than I concur that removing all the fuel from the tank is the recommended route. Not cheap or fun of course to have removed, but possible the gas has suffered from phase separation. Should this be the case, and you remove the watery substance from the fuel, the remaining fuel could have very low octane, with the possibility of causing detonation to the pistons. Ethanol of course is used to raise the octane level, and in such a scenario, the ethanol vents off to the atmosphere, leaving octane depleted fuel behind. Up here in the Great White North, marinas can typically get non-ethanol fuel so we don't see that many ethanol issues such as phase separation thankfully. Flip side getting ethanol free fuel on the water is $ 1.99 CDN a litre or roughly $ 5.83 in USD per US gallon. Suppliers love to hit us with fuel hikes just in time for May 2-4 weekend, etc.
  3. Wiring harness issues are fun. Possible the error code mentioned earlier was showing fuel pump circuit high or low? These engines are not designed to shut down while running due to a sensor failure with the possible exception of a crank position sensor. Makes me think error code was showing fuel pump circuit issue which would probably show if the relay wasn't getting power to keep the fuel pumps going while the engine was running. If a MerCruiser, it is my understanding that even the newer engines ECM has no idea what the fuel pump is doing. Maybe the latest Volvo direct injected engines have an idea what the fuel pump is doing, but I don't know that. Wire harness was loose? On the 10 pin connector itself where the engine harness plugs into the harness for the key switch on top of the engine, or loose where fuel pump relays, or somewhere else? The 10 pin connector type are known to be problematic; I typically use a small flat screwdriver to widen the male terminals so they contact the female slots properly for the cannon plug. Later style 14 pin harness that MerCruiser brought out around 2007 or so has proven to be much more robust. ]/[]=-/
  4. Based on the picture you have the optional Sport seating. Picture from a 2000-2002 186, 196 and 216 SSi should work for you. 2003 190, 200 and 220* SSi *w/o walk-thru transom will work as well. Cyclops might be able to help as his 186 SSi might be in the water already, but we've had a late spring up here. Don't know what seating configuration he has though. My own boat won't be out of storage for several more weeks. Chris
  5. Pictures were on Photobucket, and now a PITA to show on this forum except in small format. Here is what I did on a customers 2010 255 SSi with Lenco. Removed the blank gauge, and installed the trim indicator switch in its place. Picture I stole off the web with Bennett 1212E with shortie cylinders (you can just make out 3 rings instead of 4 rings on standard Bennett actuator. Wingnut might have better pictures showing tab placement.
  6. One change I made to the new bow and cockpit covers to our 186 SSi was installing a zipper and flap where the 2 covers meet at the base of the windshield. Now works so much better at keeping rain water from entering the boat, especially where it was prone to earlier by the windshield. Not my boat in the picture below, but helps lend an idea of what I'm talking about.
  7. Volvo Penta can be fun looking parts up, but most things are probably still available. Think the engine itself is either a GM sourced 305 or 350 cid small block V8. Should be a decent boat all around for you. If I was interested in purchasing the boat, I would certainly install an aftermarket extended swim platform. Makes it so much easier and safer to get on the boat as well as additional room. Price? So much depends on the condition of the boat. Stringers, drive, bellows, floor, gel coat, etc. etc. Highly recommend getting a marine survey completed. Piece of mind should you decide to buy, and helps with possible price negotiation should something expensive be found and needed.
  8. I'd just replace the trim sender this winter when you have the square/square shaft seal replaced. If the gimbal ring is loose, highly recommend replacing at that time the gimbal ring, square/square shaft, and tiller arm as well.
  9. Trim limit side of the trim sender is pooched - that's why you're forced to use trailer position double detent on the shifter to raise the drive. Will require a new trim limit/sender kit to be installed on the gimbal ring - requires the boat to be out of the water for this, but the drive can stay on. Seeing you have a 496 Mag with the SmartCraft style trim sender, Mercury part # 8M0107462 is the latest part number. Part # 25 in the part schematic below. NOTE: recommend placing your drive in the Bravo 1 position to allow for faster hole shot and less bow rise when getting on plane. When the 'celery' stick for the rear power trim anchor pin is repositioned to the Bravo 1 position from the Bravo 3 position, the trim sender needs to be recalibrated to allow the trim sender gauge to be accurate. Doing both at the same time makes a lot of sense to me. You're boat won't give you adverse handling by going to Bravo 1 position. Some boat makes and models don't react well to the Bravo 1 position - thankfully your boat isn't among them. Recommend pulling the drive anyway if it hasn't been off in a couple of years to grease the splines, check condition of bellows, gear oil reservoir hose, rear shift cable, engine alignment, etc. With the drive off, it makes it a little easier to route and install the new trim sender/limit wires up through the gimbal housing. Use Mercury Xtreme grease to lube the drive yoke splines, etc. Hope this helps. Chris
  10. The Teleflex rotary QCII steering system on your boat had an amount of slop even when brand new. If the gimbal ring, steering shaft and tiller arm are all in good shape without excess looseness, and you still want to eliminate the loose steering, you'll have to upgrade to a Teleflex HPS (high performance steering) rotary steering kit and required HPS style cable. NOTE: the HPS steering system is a little harder to turn while operating the boat, and you want to ensure you don't get the NFB (no feed back) style as you want the version for power steering. Teleflex was purchased by SeaStar several years ago. I don't know if the HPS is superior or not to their XTREME Mechanical Steering line, but I think I would opt for the XTREME version. XTREME is 4.2 turns lock to lock, while HPS is 3.0 turns lock to lock. Seeing your boat has tilt steering, I think you would opt for: SHX97626 XTREME™ Tilt Non-NFB Helm For OEM applications only SSCX64XX XTREME™ QC Steering Cable Your current steering cable will have a part number stamped into it. The last 2 numbers will be the length in feet. Lets assume for a moment that your current steering cable is stamped with part # SSC6216. You would then order SSCX6416 to get the equivalent length XTREME cable. You want the OEM version to allow you current Chaparral steering wheel to fit. OEM version has splines vs 3/4" tapered shaft with key. Hope this helps. Chris
  11. My gut says really highly odds of this exact scenario being the culprit...classic symptoms for MerCruiser power of won't crank, no power to gauges but everything else works and batteries are connected. Only takes an instant to fry that 90 amp breaker if the battery cables touch the wrong battery posts.
  12. MerCruiser powered versions can certainly have the remote control and engine control cables changed in or out of the water - makes no difference. Rear shift cable of course has be to done with the boat out of the water. Volvo powered version have the shift cable run directly from the shifter all the way through the transom and connected directly to the drive which requires the boat to be out of the water for replacement. You mentioned in an earlier post about black barrel spacers. That's a Gen I design. Gen II has a grooved slot to lock the cable to the remote control module. I don't think the Gen II shifter came out until mid 2005 or later. Easiest way to identify apart from finding a part number on the shifter or cable is to watch the cables where they come out of the control box while the shift or throttle handle(s) are being moved. Gen I has the angle of the cables change/move where they exit the control module, while Gen II has all movement located inside the shifter module itself - the Gen II cables move very little externally when shifting or throttling. Gen II module is roughly 4" longer than Gen I version too. Wish I had a video to show what I mean, but sadly I can't find anything applicable on the net. NOTE: for Bravo equipped models with a mechanical remote control, don't shift into gear without the engine running. Shift plate doesn't like that treatment. I can probably tell you just by a picture of the remote control though. Note the black barrel on the remote control end on Gen I vs slot design for Gen II pics below. Gen I style: Gen II style:
  13. 15" is probably referring to the prop diameter? Diameter sizing goes down as pitch sizing goes up. I find pitch is more important that diameter. Just wanting to confirm; this is the 206 SSi WT that you had been looking at initially with an engine running problem - believe it had a 19" stainless steel prop on it? If so, they did a tune up and then installed a 17" aluminum prop, said the problem was fixed, but you're now finding boat is still not making proper power and RPM? Should the above be correct, then I think the engine has a mechanical issue, quite possibly fuel related that is causing the engine to not reach full RPM and power potential. (you had mentioned the fuel pump is whining) Unless you're boating at a high elevation, I'm thinking the original 19" pitch prop was correctly sized. For fuel related problems, I like to start with the basics. - checking to make sure the fuel pump harness has a good, clean connection - they partially fall off easily enough when the engine is being serviced - running the engine on an outboard fuel tank with fresh fuel that is preferably 6 gallons in size and then plumbing the fuel line directly to the fuel pump on the engine. NOTE: Working with fuel is dangerous. Great care needs to be taken to prevent the outboard fuel tank hose from becoming entangled in the serpentine belt, or being pinched off from the engine hatch, etc. Normally for that model I would place and secure the fuel tank in the compartment under the walk thru, being very careful regarding fuel vapours. (running the bilge blower motor the entire time) I say 6 gallons as the engine doesn't run very long on this amount of fuel when performing higher speed test runs. This test isolates the anti-siphon valve, fuel pick up and fuel line to the engine. - perform a fuel pressure test (this requires proper tools and expertise) Ethanol fuel could be the culprit, as it goes skunky rather quickly and can give all sorts of engine running problems. Have seen low and high pressure fuel pumps fail. I'm just spit balling here, but my gut says the high pressure pump is not working properly. As my favourite YouTuber Preston Jacobs states "As always, I'm probably wrong on about half of this..."
  14. RPM range for the 200 hp Volvo 4.3L Gi is 4400-4800 at wide open throttle. If you go to the following link and select 4.3Gi-200-R (AQ) for the product designation then you can download manuals, etc. Quite possible to have a 2012 powertrain in a 2013 model boat. -S version would be a 2013 MY, etc. If the boat was mine, I for sure would opt for a 4 blade stainless steel prop to capture the maximum performance and cornering grip out of that hull pad set up. Say a Mercury 19" pitch right hand Revolution 4 with Volvo SX hub kit, or Volvo ss prop variant. Hull pad with an aluminum prop results in cavitation or ventilation when cornering hard. Recommend being on the higher side towards 4800 RPM vs 4400 RPM with a normal load. Example of hull pad used on late model Chaparral SSi and Sunesta WT boats. (flat hull section below the drain plug)
  15. For a 2005 216 Sunesta, your boat will have Faria analog gauges meaning the oil psi readings are being sent by the mechanical oil pressure sender, while the ECM is getting it's oil psi information from the oil pressure sensor and as such the 2 are on different circuits. If for example your engine was using a mineral 10w30 engine oil, on long runs above say 4000 RPM you could expect to see some wild oil psi fluctuations on the oil pressure gauge from the oil foaming up. This would be accompanied by an audio alarm being turned on by the ECM when it found the same readings. Hence MerCruiser recommends 25w40 semi-synthetic and Volvo uses 10w40 full synthetic - the heavier grade and additive package resists foaming under the loads experienced with a marine engine. Sounds like your oil pressure readings are okay to me too.