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Everything posted by Shepherd1

  1. Very easiest thing for you to do is purchase an entire new key switch assy. Most marinas keep these in stock as they are rather standard for the industry. Crescent wrench and a # 2 Phillips screw driver are all that is really required for tools. Your switch is the 3 pin long neck standard version. An example that would be a direct replacement is shown below. Quick and easy re&re, and not expensive. If you wanted to get fancy, and had the required Deutsch connector and tools, you could install a 2008 and later style Chaparral switch that offers a nicer automotive design and feel, but the switch, connectors, and tools are not cheap and is rather time consuming for wiring, etc. I installed one in my own 2001 boat as I had all the parts and tools on hand, so it can be done at least.
  2. Just me personally, but I would go with the newer Bolt version over older style hydraulic system from Bennett. Appears from your above picture that you have the original dash design that had the round analog gauges. Not a lot of options really. Probably to the right of the steering console. For the 2008 and later models that used the square digital gauges, I would recommend removing the fake upper right gauge, and doing a custom install for the optional Bolt controller with indicator. Would take some work, but would provide the best working and most functional layout. Just my thoughts.
  3. I don't think you'll have to remove the engine; no doubt it will be a tight fit. Recommend removing the Gen III cool fuel module above the seawater pump to make access easier and faster. Found a video showing a MerCruiser small block V8 that will be quite similar in nature. NOTE: ensure you first find and disconnect the gray and green air pump hoses that drain the seawater pump for your 8.2L Mag - engine in video was not equipped with this option. Push in on fittings # 21 in the picture below to remove and install the air hoses again. At any rate, if you find the internal brass housings are badly grooved, I would recommend replacing with a ss Hardin Marine Gen 7 aftermarket kit with the pulley installed. This kit uses the older Bravo 59362T style impeller. Far superior to the OEM pump IMHO. If you were to go with a Hardin kit, you would retain item # 10
  4. Does your audio alarm give a short beep when you turn the key switch from the 'off' position to the 'on' position? Also, does your boat have SmartCraft gauges, specifically the tachometer, or does the dash have standard analog gauges like in the picture below? I rather doubt you have the SmartCraft gauge set up used on later models. Example shown in the 2nd picture. (beautiful helm was not titled by me...) Lastly, 2002 was a year or transition from older style MerCruiser fuel injected engines to later style fuel injected engines that were SmartCraft compatible. MerCruiser also continued making carburetor equipped models too. For fuel injected offerings, a majority of 2002 boats probably had the previous generation 2001 engines installed; just the way it is for logistically for production and assembly on the factory floor to this day. As others have mentioned, REALLY need to know what exact engine version you have in the boat to help. If fuel injected, do you happen to see the diamond shaped decal that says SmartCraft like in the picture below? Can be seen under and to the right of '350 Mag MPI'. I only ask this as differing generation of engines can have specific issues. If fuel injected, my gut feeling is the high pressure fuel pump is not making proper fuel pressure. When the engine reaches 4500 RPM in neutral, are you not getting an audio beep alarm? Audio alarm should come on at roughly 3000+ RPM in neutral if the engine is a SmartCraft equipped MPI engine for engine overspeed in neutral.
  5. Sure sounds like a faulty IAC valve for the hard starting with fuel advanced required. As for the smoking and rough running, that sounds like a faulty fuel pressure regulator causing too much fuel pressure, or faulty fuel pump perhaps causing too little fuel pressure. Mercury / Quicksilver part # 862998 for the IAC valve, and 863112 for the IAC gasket, and 863829 for the IAC muffler inside the throttle body. Items # 16, 15, and # 6 in the top picture. Use some intake and throttle body cleaner spray to clean out the plenum (item # 14 in the bottom picture) under the IAC valve as it is probably in need of a good cleaning. Regulator is part # 13 in the picture below.
  6. Personally found the 2006 246 SSi rode very well; reason for this is it shares the same hull as the 230 and 235 SSi which in short are excellent boats; probably the best I've driven for a 25' and under length overall. Volvo 8.1L is lots; should be fun. 2009 and newer 246 SSi WT models ride really well too. Have a little more all around performance, but with the hull pad, does not provide quite as much the comfort as the older 2006 246 SSi. HUGE difference in ride between the 2005 216 Sunesta and the 2006 246 SSi. Power and space will be a serious upgrade too. Certainly agree with nkdenton's assesment of what makes a good riding boat.
  7. What you're describing certainly sounds like a faulty water pressure sensor for a 2001 and new MPI equipped MerCruiser. Classic symptom. However, if you have a 1995 1930 SS, than I would guess your engine is carbureted. In such a case, you would only have audio alarm sound for: - low engine oil pressure, low gear oil level in reservoir, and engine overheating If everything looks good, and you have a carb'd MerCruiser, than first thing I'd look at is the float in the gear oil reservoir. Typically fastest way to test is to get a new gear oil reservoir. Leaving it empty of gear oil, connect the wires, and place the new empty gear oil reservoir upside down and go for a test drive. The new gear oil reservoir being upside down of course shows the alarm system that the float is in the desired position, while the old reservoir still has gear oil to help maintain the correct level. Failing that, and with the problem occuring at slower speeds, my next guess would be a faulty or partially plugged engine oil pressure sensor. When RPM rises past a certain point, maybe the sensor can 'see' required oil pressure (not to be confused with the oil pressure sender which supplies oil pressure info to your dash gauge) Oil pressure sensor for the audio alarm system and the oil pressure sender for the dash oil pressure gauge are on separate circuits. Item # 12 in the picture below is the oil pressure sensor for the audio alarm system. Mercury / Quicksilver part # 805605A1
  8. Been a while since I did my last black OEM original style mat removal and replaced with Seadek, but it actually pulled off pretty well. (mind you, that black mat had only been on the 2 seasons) Spent some time afterwards with a high pressure hot water sprayer to remove the lions share of the old residue. Products like Goo Gone work well too. Here's a video from Seadek on how to remove the old pad and install the new.
  9. For that particular engine, the alarm only sounds for low engine oil pressure, low gear oil, and engine over heat. Your engine oil pressure gauge and the engine oil pressure sensor are on different circuits. Thus if the engine oil pressure shows as low during operation, and the alarm is sounding, one can surmise low engine oil pressure is in fact happening. One other possiblility is that the float inside the gear oil reservoir no longer floats properly and thus setting off the alarm; have seen that before. Having said that, I have an intermittent audio alarm that comes on for my 2001 MerCruiser 4.3L carb'd engine. Not a constant beep which the carb'd engines of that time did (either silent or constant) so I think the intermittent short chirping is caused by a wiring issue of some kind. I hated to do it, but it happened enough that I disconnected the horn after looking into the issue for severa hours with our head tech at work and not being able to find the cause. Now I just watch my gauges very closely when driving the boat seeing I don't have an early warning alarm system.
  10. Waiting to hear back from my contact, but should simply need to swap out current F series props with same FH series. If memory serves, I think the 2007 Signature 280 used 2.20 gear ratio with 24" props on twin MerCruiser 4.3L MPI, so my gut says the boat was probably equipped with F5 props to compensate for the slightly higher gear ratio used by Volvo. Thus if you had F5 props and RPM was 4400-4800 RPM at wide open throttle with average load, than install FH5 props. If you're down on RPM, then switch to lower pitched FH4. If RPM is too high, then try FH6.
  11. Typical Volvo - I can't seem to find a parts schematic. I think your type looks like below: Believe your dash looks like below: Might be able to get a universal kill switch and lanyard kit. Seachoice for example has a kit that I think would work for you. Doesn't say 'Volvo' on the box, but the one piece sure looks exactly like the model shown in the pictures above.
  12. Love that hull and layout; great boat and upgrade from your old 180 Crownline. Do you have the optional extended swim platform? Adding Seadek adds a lot of comfort and grip, and does not get hot on the feet. Hard to believe no one out there has asked for Seadek to make a kit for a 260 SSi bow rider or 265 SSi cuddy in the past, but I don't see a kit listed. I know the extended portion is the same as the 235 and 246 SSi, etc. Regarding the Volvo, recommend doing a tune up. Can use MerCruiser parts if wanted for the cap, rotor, and spark plugs. (GM HVS style distributor is prone to fouling from humidity, etc) NOTE: Volvo HVS style distributor cap uses aluminum terminals instead of more expensive and longer lasting brass type that MerCruiser uses. Volvo spark plugs are also sourced from Champion; I personally prefer the latest NGK ITR4A-15 Laser Iridium - Merc says they're supposed to last 400 hours. Cap and rotor - Mercury / Quicksilver part # 8M0061335 - NGK ITR4A-15 (pre-gapped to 0.060" - DON'T touch or adjust the gap or you'll break the electrode off) Can probably get the spark plugs and distributor cap and rotor at a local NAPA - 1997 Chevrolet 1500 with 350 V8. Following link will take you to Volvo marine parts look up; this site is actually run by Volvo Penta. Guessing you have a 5.7 GXi-B model with a DP-SM drive. Lastly, if the serpentine belt is making a lot of noise, recommend pulling off and replacing with a Continental Elite version. Auto supply store will need the old belt to match up. Have fun with the boat!
  13. I don't know how it went for you today, but from your description, it sounds like a fuel issue - not normal at any rate. Almost sounds like a vapour lock, but if fuel related, I'm leaning towards a partially blocked anti-siphon valve or fuel delivery issue from a faulty fuel pump or fuel tank can't vent properly. Please don't give up on the boat or dealership. Having said this, once the problem has been diagnosed, a tech would have to water test on a lake, etc. under load for say 1/2 an hour to confirm that the cure actually works. While the boat is there, should have the tech confirm the tachometer is set to 6 cylinder. In the past, I've always seen the analog tachometers come set up from the factory for 8 cylinder power.
  14. Run the boat on a shop fuel tank (outboard 6.6 gallon size) and see how it runs. NOTE: 6 gallons won't take you far at all! Might take a 2nd tank of fuel to burn through all the residual fuel in the fuel filters and pump. If still getting that noise, would suspect engine timing is not 100% or tune up is required.
  15. Agree 100% with Lestat; get rid of the original discontinued black mat, and replace with custom Seadek. More comfortable and will stop giving you headaches.They can now make a 3 colour version as well if wanted.
  16. Meaning no offense sir, but I highly recommend having the other items checked out too.Trying an F3/FH3 prop set, and forgot to mention you should time the props seeing your boat is equipped with a hull pad. If you have a fuel or ignition problem, sooner rather than later is the time to act.
  17. Seeing you have a Volvo 5.0 GL-E (carb'd engine) the amount of factors that will sound the alarm are rather limited. What exact grade of engine oil are you running? I have seen issues where guys running conventional 10w30 engine oil will have an alarm sound due to wild fluctuations in oil pressure, but this requires operating the boat at 3500+ RPM for 10 minutes or more.
  18. I'd be willing to bet it has F4 or the later helical cut FH4 props on the boat. Several things I'd do seeing you have cleaned the hull already: 1. Have a compression test done; critical you're catch a misfire event happening between cylinders 3 and 5 on the HVS (a POS) igintion system. If you are having this, will cause those 2 cylinders to become washed out from unburned fuel. In such an event, typically a new long block is required... 2. If compression is good, borrow a set of F3 or FH3 props and test run. Have seen lots of times where the stock props Chaparral use won't allow the engine to reach top RPM with a heavy load. 3. Run the engine off a 6 gallon outboard tank with fresh fuel. Won't be able to go very far for that water test! Critical to eliminate possible problems with anti-siphon valve, etc. Might require 2 tanks of shop tank fuel for testing. 4. Have the shop verify engine timing 100%. See 2nd page of the following MerCruiser service bulletin to see if moving the distributor 1-2 degrees helps. 5. Check the electrical connectors for the fuel pumps.
  19. I assume you have DTS; if so, start with getting a helm adaptation and configuration done. Also essential to have clean battery terminals as DTS communicates by voltage. Find this approach works the majority of the time.
  20. Do you have the flag style circuit breaker? There was a bulletin on those where they were to be replaced with the older style push button that were very reliable. Yellow flag piece would drop down causing issues. POS flag style circuit breaker New/old style replacement 88-11178a01 Item # 17 look to be the culprit?
  21. If you're referring to the premium bucket design with the pull up levers for rotation and fwd/back you can order new cables, and do the work yourself, but the job is not fun or fast to do. Will need to ensure dealer orders the correct cable, and HIGHLY recommend ordering new rotation or fwd/back square decalsr. Only ever had to repace one cable in my time. NOTE: take care to count how many threads to get the desired tension for the adjuster nut. If you need to add or remove slack, that at least will give you a starting point. I honestly can't recall who the bucket seat manufacturer is for Chaparral, but at the time of introduction, Chaparral had a 5 year exclusive to the Premium version. Think the company name started with V. The 2008 to current day Premium and standard bucket design is the most comfortable and useful bucket seat I've sat in on any sport boat. Like them so much I installed a pair of them in my old 186 SSi.
  22. works very well if you know how to find the particular parts. You should have a Gen I 4000 panel style pistol grip shifter for MY 2001 Chaparral 183 SS with MerCruiser power. The trim switch of course if a double detent. Push soft for trim, and hard for trailer. That is the style my 2001 186 SSi had before I replaced with a 4500 Gen II remote control and cables. (original shifter was damaged when I purchased the boat, and could go into gear without depressing the thumb button - I never was a fan of the thumb button either) Does the drive trim at all when you push in for either trim or trailer detents? If not, could be the switch in the handle, faulty up solenoid, or a loose 3 pin connector on the trim pump. (item # 3 in the bottom schematic picture) Interesting to me that you are looking at both a trim switch, and trim solenoids. Thinking it is possible you're not pushing the trim button in hard enough, or the trim limit switch needs to be adjusted or replaced, or do the wiring work around on the trim pump to bypass the trim limit switch altogether. Picture below shows a Mercury Commander 4000 panel mount (Gen I) sadly missing the throttle only button and couple of plastic trim pieces. All Mercury controls from 1994 and newer: Mercury Commander 4000 Pistol Grip (Gen I)
  23. Once you tighten the steering cable nut, you should be good to go. No one would have replaced the steering actuator under warranty by chance? Have found some of those particular actuators leak and spew power steering oil into the bilge. Doesn't appear to be the case with yours judging by the picture. Very glad to hear no one was hurt; great idea going for a test drive and having tool kit on board! Seriously, top marks. One word of caution: don't recommend pushing or pulling on steering actuator while the engine is running. Some actuator designs can move when pressure is placed on them, and can pinch fingers. In such a case, they have no respect for flesh and bones. Enjoy your vacation!
  24. Trim, lights, blower, bilge, depth sounder, etc. are indeed on separate circuits. The cannon plug powers engine gauges and ignition. (minus speedometer of course) Recommend going back through and tracing engine harness connections and grounds. Stereo may be powered off 'run' or 'accy' key switch positions.
  25. Seeing that ESP came as standard equipment on that boat, I'm thinking it needs to be replaced due to being damaged somehow. If they get banged up bad enough, often cheaper to replace than to repair.