• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Shepherd1

  1. I'd put my money on the actual problem being 861150T02 - you're describing classic symptom and scenario that breaks or cracks these almost every time. Anytime we do bellows work or pull an engine with this style of thru-hull oil reservoir fitting, we replace it to save a serious PITA. This part might cost $ 20 USD however. Can you get us the part # that was replaced?
  2. Even with a stethoscope, I don't know if I could hear a bad exhaust flapper with Quick and Quiet turned on resulting in the majority of the exhaust gas to exit out the sides vs. through the prop(s). Eyesight is good, hearing not so much. NOTE: even with Quick and Quiet turned off, some exhaust gas and noise escapes out the side exits along with through the prop(s). I have seen the Corsa Quick and Quiet exhaust flappers make some rattling noise, often as a result of a past engine or exhaust overheat. If an overheat was bad enough, the Corsa exhaust flappers/pivot seals will often drip water into the engine compartment. For the stock exhaust flappers after an engine overheat, the rubber material gets burned off the stainless steel plates, and the flappers often fall apart and attempt to go out through the exhaust Y pipe, exhaust bellows and prop(s). Usually in such a scenario, for Alpha drive equipped models the broken exhaust flappers will get stuck on the shift fork.
  3. Is the hole in question in the picture below on the PORT side? If so, believe that is a transom shower kit. Can't recall the manufacturer though. Cecil Marine probably know.
  4. MerCruiser used several different versions of exhaust system for their small-block V8 engines from the early 2000's and newer models. Best bet is to get the engine serial # to verify getting the correct version and parts. It is fair to say that Mercury had an issue with exhaust leaks from the gasket for the manifold to head (item # 5 in the picture below) not being centered correctly and thus burning out after 100 hours of running time or so. In such a scenario, a person running their hand along this area can feel the exhaust gases, as well and hear and smell the exhaust leak typically. If however you can hear a 'ting-ting-ting' sound at idle that sounds like metal on metal, than it is likely you're hearing the exhaust flapper(s) hitting the exhaust elbow internally as the rubber coating has worn away from wear/use, or from an overheat that has stripped away the protective rubber seal material. (item # 7 in the picture below) Purpose of exhaust flappers is to reduce the chance of water getting into the engines cylinders when coming off plane quickly, hard reverse, or a following sea, etc.
  5. Gen+ 5.7L so far as I can tell made the same hp with a 2 bbl carb as a 1995 and older 5.7L with 4 bbl carb. An internal combustion engine is essentially an air pump, and the Gen+ head design worked very well for fuel swirl and scavenging. Do you need a Gen+ and/or do funds required make sense? Much depends on what is available in your area. I have a neighbour mechanic friend up the road who has a direct replacement for your particular engine with 4 bbl carb, etc. (freshwater use only being in 1000 Islands region of Ontario, Canada) NOTE: factory Weber carbs from MerCruiser are essentially the same as an Edelbrock marine carb. Parts should be readily available to convert from 2 bbl MerCruiser to 4 bbl set up for whichever generation from MerCruiser. While we're at it (the 4 most expensive words in the English language) installing an extended swim platform makes that boat so much more user friendly. Not cheap though. Factory ESP off a 210 SSi would bolt right up to your transom. Aftermarket versions are made too. Lastly, when you pull the engine, HIGHLY recommend removing the 4 lag bolts that hold the forward engine mounts to the stringers, instead of removing the large nut from the tops of the forward PORT and STBD forward engine mounts) This should ensure your engine alignment is as close as possible if doing a direct block replacement, and also makes it easier for placing the engine on say a pallet with blocks of wood for support. Seeing you have an Alpha drive, place the drive in forward gear of course for removal and installation of the drive. For a better sense of cost, would have the transom bellows, rear shift cable, trim senders, water hose and gimbal ring looked at first. Condition of stringers and transom should be assessed too. Not trying too talk you out of this project, as I rather liked the ride and handling of the 1995 SS versus competitors of that era.
  6. Hi Grant, am I correct in assuming you are currently running a 2 barrel carburetor? Should this be the case, let me know what version of engine you have and we can talk more specifically regarding parts and power without killing the bank account. Chris
  7. Seeing the boat is a 1996, it is quite likely you have 1987-1995 version unfortunately. For the 1996 and later Gen+ engines, GM primarily changed the head designs allowing for greater power with equivalent fuel economy. Vortec was a label for GM's latest and greatest engine technology for that given time. Please see below for identification tips for various years of GM small block 5.0L and 5.7L V8 engines (305 and 350 cubic inch displacement) Mercruiser 5.0l, 5.7l Identification Tips Over the years there have been several changes to the GM 5.0-Liter and 5.7-Liter engine blocks. Often making it difficult to positively identify which version a technician is working on, and the appropriate parts required to complete appropriate service repairs. Hopefully, this will help to take some of the mystery out of the identification process. 1986 & Earlier A. All 12 of the intake manifold bolts are installed at a 90-degree angle to the block. B. The valve cover bolts are installed at the perimeter of the head. C. Crankshafts utilize a 2-piece rear-main seal. D. These blocks are machined to operate a mechanical fuel pump. Note: In 1986 there was a limited production run with a one-piece rear-main seal, perimeter valve-cover bolts, and 90-degree bolt pattern for the intake manifold. 1987 thru 19951 A. 8 of the 12 intake manifold bolts are installed at a 90-degree angle to the block. The other 4 bolts are installed at a 72-degree angle. B. The valve cover bolts are install in the center of the head. C. Crankshafts utilize a 1-piece rear-main seal. D. These blocks are machined to operate a mechanical fuel pump. Note: During 1996 and 1997 the 3S0-Magnum (carb) and a limited production of the S.7­Liter EFI throttle body utilized this (non-Gen+) designed roller-cam engine. 1996 & Newer (Gen+) A. All 8 intake manifold bolts are installed vertically. (straight up and down) See MerCruiser Service Bulletin # 97-1 for proper torque procedures and specification. B. The valve cover bolts are installedl in the center of the head. C. Crankshafts utilize a 1-piece rear-main seal. D. Timing covers are plastic. E. Engines are fit with electric fuel pumps. Note 1: During 1996 and 1997 the 3S0-Magnum (carb) and a limited production of the S.7­Liter EFI throttle body utilized the 1987 thru 1995 engine block as stated above. Note 2: During 1996 the S.7-Liter MPI (multi-port fuel injected) engines were produced with a vapor separator and a mechanical fuel pump. For these applications we recommend using the Mercury Remanufacturing Pro-Series longblock # 860186ROS.
  8. .
  9. I hear Brunswick is looking to sell Sea Ray. My understanding is that they have been using profits from Boston Whaler to keep Sea Ray viable. If this is the case, management must have gotten tired of it...
  10. Will need the engine serial # for your engine to be of much assistance. Should be a sticker showing the engine serial # on the plastic engine cover, or it can be found stamped into a plate riveted to the engine block just above the starter motor. If the engine, drive, or transom serials cannot be found, at the very least I would need to know: - model and year of boat and model of engine i.e. MerCruiser 350 Mag Bravo with or without closed cooling (heat exchanger mounted on engine) Chris
  11. Never was a fan of the earlier Commander 3000 controls from Mercury. If the problem is indeed the shifter, I HIGHLY recommend the following: MerCruiser Gen II shifter with chrome handle (same as is finally used in 2012 Chaparral MerCruiser powered SSi boats) MerCruiser part # 8M0030551 Going from this style shifter: MerCruiser Gen II Premium shift and throttle cables MerCruiser part # 8M0082537 is a 14' Gen II cable. If you need a 13' cable, you would order 8M0082536. Current length in feet of the cables should be stamped on the shrouding) i.e. Generally shift on a MerCruiser is 1' shorter than the throttle cable. The Gen II style shifters are much smoother to operate than the older styles. When you move the handle, the cables don't move outside of the remote control - all movement is completed inside the box. This means bulkheads, etc. can be resting on the cables, with no real detriment to shift and throttle cable movement. In short, if the boat was mine, and the shifter and remote control cables were the problem, this is what I would install in their place. Some light modifications may be required for mounting, but we're talking drilling or filing holes in the plywood in different places or slightly larger and perhaps cutting some vinyl in a few spots with an exacto knife. Did this same project on our own boat, and was very glad I did it.
  12. Like your thinking! Not personally a fan of Exide batteries. I really like Optima (not cheap) and Deka too. (aka East Penn). I know Deka (East Penn) supplies batteries to Mercury (Quicksilver) and Yamaha among others. Up here in the Great White North, Exide supplies Crappy Tire, so I don't purchase batteries from them. NOTE: for anyone with a boat that is stored for 30 days or more, I HIGHLY recommend removing the negative battery cables off the battery(s) to prevent parasitic discharge, especially on newer large boats.
  13. If interested, in order to get more power out of your 496 Mag, you can make it into an HO by installing different cam, sending ECM to Whipple, etc. for a reflash, and removing the restrictor plate in the throttle body.
  14. You're right in that the Merc and Volvo gauges look the exact same. Do use different languages though, so going with old part number is pretty critical.
  15. I don't recommend going down to 22" Bravo 3 props. I honestly can't imagine that the 24" props ran like fecal matter. 22" sure would be nice if you're planning on your ride becoming a refugee boat. Beyond that, the engine is straining for nothing. Louder, thirstier, slower. 5150 RPM for cut-out sounds like for 496 Mag HO (rev range 4600-5000), not the standard 496 Mag. (rev range 4400-4800) NOTE: you could opt for a Teleflex (now SeaStar) HPS rotary steering system for less slop, but your current helm is the Teleflex OEM splined style, not the keyed standard type. Would require a new steering wheel. I don't think Teleflex makes an HPS OEM version helm though. Often gimbal ring and square/square steering shaft take a beating too.
  16. I think you'll be SOL coach, but try contacting Ameritex; believe they made your original canvas. If they can or are even willing to make it, they would need the reference numbers off the tags for each section. Lots of running changes over the years, and they could have made several different versions during the MY 2008 build run for instance. Nice boat BTW. Most people are forced to get a local canvas shop to make what they need after this many years. Don't be afraid to be picky IMHO.
  17. Pretty sure your boat will have the VeeThree SmartCraft gauges. In this case, the tachometer is the boss gauge, and most problems start and end there. Chaparral had a test kit for their dealers to use for diagnostics, but I typically found having a known working tachometer of the proper version to be the fastest test. Lights flickering is probably due to a loose connection. Connector type is Deutsch; can't recall the size. Maybe some of the parameters have been turned off in settings for some reason? Wiring colour guide to the best of my memory: yellow is ground blue is gauge lights gray is tachometer red is 12 volt power white? (I don't recall)
  18. Here's two options. Still trying to recall the guy from California that I had heard of. As far as I can make out, Bob from mefiburn has some serious internet cred.
  19. If your engine RPM range is 4400-4800, then I'm thinking the engine is either a MerCruiser 5.7L carbureted model, or maybe 5.7L EFI. If the boat was mine, I would do the following depending on power train and options boat currently has on it. - install extended swim platform (if not already equipped with one) - install SeaDek pad for greater grip and comfort (link below fits factory OEM extended swim platform) NOTE: the 2 options listed above IMHO are by far the best bang for the buck for water sports and general all around daily use. * if engine is carb'd, install 4 bbl Weber or Edelbrock carb (intake, fuel line, brackets, etc. from say 1996 MerCruiser 5.7 LX) vs. spending roughly similar money on different props * if engine is EFI, there is a guy in California who can do a recal on MEFI 1 and 2 ECM'a for extra power. - place the drive in the Bravo 1 position, and adjust the trim senders for faster hole shot with less bow rise Lastly, for owners who have MerCruiser 350 Mag MPI engines, Merc changed their top RPM spec numbers sometime around 2005 to 4800-5200. If memory serves Merc changed the cam and ECM calibration for the extra 200 RPM.
  20. MerCruiser 5.0L carb or 5.0L MPI?
  21. That is a really nice boat. Should show in the owners manual what battery positions the switches should be in for 'normal' operation. Solid alarm I believe will come on with voltage below 10 volts. EFI engines communicate with their sensors and switches, etc. using voltage, and once battery voltage drops down below say 11 volts, the ECM has difficulties, and thus sounds the alarm. Seeing you have MerCruiser power, I would check the orange wire on the back of each alternator. Often the ring terminal that attachs to the alternator stud breaks from age and vibration, and thus can't charge the battery. Should this be the problem, ensure you turn the battery switches to off before effecting repairs. On a side note, I HIGHLY recommend installing SeaDek to your extended and integrated swim platforms; gives even more grip and comfort to knees etc. without getting hot. 2nd best investment I did on my own boat, after installing the ESP, but I see your boat already has the optional factory ESP installed. One other thing I liked to do on that model was install an OceanAir Skyscreen sunshade and mosquito cover inside the cockpit. Came standard on 290 Signature, etc. from early 2000's and on. 2830 SS and 280 SSi are bow rider versions, and essentially the exact same boat 2835 SS and 285 SSi are cuddy cabin versions, and essentially the exact same boat
  22. Easy guys both raise valid points and I feel you both know your stuff. Merc and Volvo both make good products and I wish they would both steal each others good ideas and drop their poor ones. Volvo is such a PITA to look up parts for, but I do find them easier to work on. Merc's warranty system is far easier to use IMHO too. Prefer the shift movement of the 2005 and newer Bravo drives to the newer Volvo DPS-A and DPS-B drives. Steering feel is a little light and effortless for my liking on the Volvo's vs Merc, but that is a personal preference. Before I drove the new Volvo GM LS series 6.0L V8-380 and V8-430 engines, I was VERY skeptical that they would hold up vs proven big block V8 power. After driving them, and having serviced them since 2012 or so, the 6.0L engines I've been around have held up with very few issues. Only issues that come to mind are the heat exchanger recall work from a few years ago, and currently the recall to replace the plastic exhaust adapter on the risers with nickel coated brass adapters for early version V8-380 and V8-430 engines. The most common failures I've seen on the Volvo power trains of the modern era has been leaking drive yoke seals, power steering actuators and power trim cylinders which in truth is really related to the drive/transom design and not the engine. Happens on both old school Volvo small block and new small block engines. Thankfully the power trim cylinder design was changed several years ago. Possible the yoke seal leaks are a result of over filling the Volvo drives with too much gear oil, which can happen pretty easily if a person is not paying attention. For our area in fresh water, muskrats sadly like to chew on the plastic power trim hoses - wish they'd kept using braided ss power trim hoses like in the past. To be fair, Joe's 236 SSx is essentially a 220 SSi with big block power - aka REALLY fast and fun boat with big block V8 power - intoxicating. Would hesitate to guess at lowest RPM it would stay on plane with that engine, but probably quite low. General cruising speed would cover a lot of territory at 3200 RPM - very longed legged and effortless feel. Friends 264 Sunesta is a good deal heavier and has 2 degrees more dead rise with similar power output working against it for top speed and fuel economy numbers. In short, that 236 SSx is a fun and rewarding ride. Volvo could probably opt for the LS-A or maybe newer LT-4 supercharged engine to reach 550+ hp but don't seem interested in that market for whatever reason. Wish Merc had brought their QCV4 engine series down to the 380 plus hp range by making a smaller cubic inch and detuned version. That is a serious engine that can run wide open pretty much all day. We'll see how the direct injection works out long term reliability wise for the new Volvo 6.2L, 5.3L and 4.3L engines. Only time will tell. FWIW, in our area, we can only get 91 octane fuel with no ethanol for marinas. Unless someone has a direct question to me, this will be my only post to this thread.
  23. I don't own a 257 SSx, nor do I wish to speak for anyone else, but if I had the cash for a new 25' sterndrive sport boat, pretty sure that would be my first pick. Personally I would opt for a Volvo GM 6.0L or latest Gen V 6.2L version powertrain . Made in V8-350, V8-380, or V8-430 hp versions vs. the MerCruiser 8.2L big block offerings. Latest Volvo GM Gen V 6.2L offers direct fuel injection, along with closed cooling, all aluminum design, variable valve timing and super easy winterization feature. Weighs about 300 lbs. less than the MerCruiser 8.2L engines. The only real gripe I have with Volvo vs. Merc is that they are loud for exhaust noise, and EVC is a must have IMO to help tame throttle changes for tubing, etc. Another 25' that is pretty nice is a Cobalt R5, but the bucket seats aren't even close to the Chaparral style for comfort or useability. Don't understand why Cobalt still uses them, but they're rubbish. 257 SSx is easily better boat all around at least to me. Here's a video that I found to bet the most entertaining. Back from 2013, but the basic design and features are essentially unchanged. Have fun shopping. Price wise, '07 246 SSi was essentially a 230 SSi with a new deck. SSx is Chaparral's premier line, and have features and content to match.
  24. Nice looking boat. Lots of nice touches. Windlass, seating layout, dash and head design look to be fantastic. A few items I'm so no enthused about: - Simrad and Garmin glass cockpit; I personally like Garmin (a personal preference) but the older SSi design dash switches worked well for seeing at night. Not a fan of these new dash switches when using them in the dark. - 3 piece vs 5 piece windshield had more eye candy and superior sight line IMHO - Chaparral seems to have gone away from using proper large oval grab rails on top of the deck in the bow like the older 256 SSi, etc. used. Oval design fit so much nicer than the round tube shape used on these later models - Cobalt look to the rear of the boat has some drawbacks...that rear transom area is just waiting to have gel coat fade issues form the sun and the rear cleats will give chaffing problems from a dock line going forward. See these 2 exact issues on Cobalt's ALL the time. No design is perfect however and I'm sure Chaparral will do well with this one.
  25. I don't wish to muddy the waters, but I have a different view. The only 6.2 litre engine I'd consider for the 287 SSx is the much newer GM LS-series based current gen 5 small block used for the latest Volvo V8-350, V8-380 and V8-430 engines. The latest MerCruiser 6.2L is their own design based heavily off the 1996 and newer GM 5.7L cast iron small block V8 engine... Volvo 6.2L engines are all aluminum, (300 lbs. lighter than 8.2L) with variable valve timing, closed cooling, direct injection, 6-bolt main and easier to winterize and maintain. In fact, I prefer the new 6.2L Volvo to the old school GM based big block used by MerCruiser for their 8.2L versions. I can't find the original video Volvo had when they first introduced the V8-380 and V8-430 but they handily beat the 8.2L engines for hole shot, mid range and fuel economy. I was skeptical until I drove those engines for the first time. Always power on tap. (comparison video had identical Formula boats with competing 380 hp engines) The only things I don't like vs the MerCruiser offerings is louder exhaust noise and abrupt harshness when shifting into forward or reverse. Recommend taking one for a drive to see if those 2 cons are a factor. Exhaust is louder on the Volvo as the exhaust partially comes out from the rear of the cavitation plate, and and Volvo made a change to their cone clutch design about 5 years ago so far as I recall. NOTE: EVC option IMHO is a must have to help make throttle transitions smoother especially for water sports. If it comes down to cost, than I'd go Volvo V8-350 vs MerCruiser 6.2L 350 hp.