• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Shepherd1

  1. I hear Brunswick is looking to sell Sea Ray. My understanding is that they have been using profits from Boston Whaler to keep Sea Ray viable. If this is the case, management must have gotten tired of it...
  2. Like your thinking! Not personally a fan of Exide batteries. I really like Optima (not cheap) and Deka too. (aka East Penn). I know Deka (East Penn) supplies batteries to Mercury (Quicksilver) and Yamaha among others. Up here in the Great White North, Exide supplies Crappy Tire, so I don't purchase batteries from them. NOTE: for anyone with a boat that is stored for 30 days or more, I HIGHLY recommend removing the negative battery cables off the battery(s) to prevent parasitic discharge, especially on newer large boats.
  3. If interested, in order to get more power out of your 496 Mag, you can make it into an HO by installing different cam, sending ECM to Whipple, etc. for a reflash, and removing the restrictor plate in the throttle body.
  4. You're right in that the Merc and Volvo gauges look the exact same. Do use different languages though, so going with old part number is pretty critical.
  5. I don't recommend going down to 22" Bravo 3 props. I honestly can't imagine that the 24" props ran like fecal matter. 22" sure would be nice if you're planning on your ride becoming a refugee boat. Beyond that, the engine is straining for nothing. Louder, thirstier, slower. 5150 RPM for cut-out sounds like for 496 Mag HO (rev range 4600-5000), not the standard 496 Mag. (rev range 4400-4800) NOTE: you could opt for a Teleflex (now SeaStar) HPS rotary steering system for less slop, but your current helm is the Teleflex OEM splined style, not the keyed standard type. Would require a new steering wheel. I don't think Teleflex makes an HPS OEM version helm though. Often gimbal ring and square/square steering shaft take a beating too.
  6. I think you'll be SOL coach, but try contacting Ameritex; believe they made your original canvas. If they can or are even willing to make it, they would need the reference numbers off the tags for each section. Lots of running changes over the years, and they could have made several different versions during the MY 2008 build run for instance. Nice boat BTW. Most people are forced to get a local canvas shop to make what they need after this many years. Don't be afraid to be picky IMHO.
  7. Pretty sure your boat will have the VeeThree SmartCraft gauges. In this case, the tachometer is the boss gauge, and most problems start and end there. Chaparral had a test kit for their dealers to use for diagnostics, but I typically found having a known working tachometer of the proper version to be the fastest test. Lights flickering is probably due to a loose connection. Connector type is Deutsch; can't recall the size. Maybe some of the parameters have been turned off in settings for some reason? Wiring colour guide to the best of my memory: yellow is ground blue is gauge lights gray is tachometer red is 12 volt power white? (I don't recall)
  8. Here's two options. Still trying to recall the guy from California that I had heard of. As far as I can make out, Bob from mefiburn has some serious internet cred.
  9. If your engine RPM range is 4400-4800, then I'm thinking the engine is either a MerCruiser 5.7L carbureted model, or maybe 5.7L EFI. If the boat was mine, I would do the following depending on power train and options boat currently has on it. - install extended swim platform (if not already equipped with one) - install SeaDek pad for greater grip and comfort (link below fits factory OEM extended swim platform) NOTE: the 2 options listed above IMHO are by far the best bang for the buck for water sports and general all around daily use. * if engine is carb'd, install 4 bbl Weber or Edelbrock carb (intake, fuel line, brackets, etc. from say 1996 MerCruiser 5.7 LX) vs. spending roughly similar money on different props * if engine is EFI, there is a guy in California who can do a recal on MEFI 1 and 2 ECM'a for extra power. - place the drive in the Bravo 1 position, and adjust the trim senders for faster hole shot with less bow rise Lastly, for owners who have MerCruiser 350 Mag MPI engines, Merc changed their top RPM spec numbers sometime around 2005 to 4800-5200. If memory serves Merc changed the cam and ECM calibration for the extra 200 RPM.
  10. MerCruiser 5.0L carb or 5.0L MPI?
  11. That is a really nice boat. Should show in the owners manual what battery positions the switches should be in for 'normal' operation. Solid alarm I believe will come on with voltage below 10 volts. EFI engines communicate with their sensors and switches, etc. using voltage, and once battery voltage drops down below say 11 volts, the ECM has difficulties, and thus sounds the alarm. Seeing you have MerCruiser power, I would check the orange wire on the back of each alternator. Often the ring terminal that attachs to the alternator stud breaks from age and vibration, and thus can't charge the battery. Should this be the problem, ensure you turn the battery switches to off before effecting repairs. On a side note, I HIGHLY recommend installing SeaDek to your extended and integrated swim platforms; gives even more grip and comfort to knees etc. without getting hot. 2nd best investment I did on my own boat, after installing the ESP, but I see your boat already has the optional factory ESP installed. One other thing I liked to do on that model was install an OceanAir Skyscreen sunshade and mosquito cover inside the cockpit. Came standard on 290 Signature, etc. from early 2000's and on. 2830 SS and 280 SSi are bow rider versions, and essentially the exact same boat 2835 SS and 285 SSi are cuddy cabin versions, and essentially the exact same boat
  12. Easy guys both raise valid points and I feel you both know your stuff. Merc and Volvo both make good products and I wish they would both steal each others good ideas and drop their poor ones. Volvo is such a PITA to look up parts for, but I do find them easier to work on. Merc's warranty system is far easier to use IMHO too. Prefer the shift movement of the 2005 and newer Bravo drives to the newer Volvo DPS-A and DPS-B drives. Steering feel is a little light and effortless for my liking on the Volvo's vs Merc, but that is a personal preference. Before I drove the new Volvo GM LS series 6.0L V8-380 and V8-430 engines, I was VERY skeptical that they would hold up vs proven big block V8 power. After driving them, and having serviced them since 2012 or so, the 6.0L engines I've been around have held up with very few issues. Only issues that come to mind are the heat exchanger recall work from a few years ago, and currently the recall to replace the plastic exhaust adapter on the risers with nickel coated brass adapters for early version V8-380 and V8-430 engines. The most common failures I've seen on the Volvo power trains of the modern era has been leaking drive yoke seals, power steering actuators and power trim cylinders which in truth is really related to the drive/transom design and not the engine. Happens on both old school Volvo small block and new small block engines. Thankfully the power trim cylinder design was changed several years ago. Possible the yoke seal leaks are a result of over filling the Volvo drives with too much gear oil, which can happen pretty easily if a person is not paying attention. For our area in fresh water, muskrats sadly like to chew on the plastic power trim hoses - wish they'd kept using braided ss power trim hoses like in the past. To be fair, Joe's 236 SSx is essentially a 220 SSi with big block power - aka REALLY fast and fun boat with big block V8 power - intoxicating. Would hesitate to guess at lowest RPM it would stay on plane with that engine, but probably quite low. General cruising speed would cover a lot of territory at 3200 RPM - very longed legged and effortless feel. Friends 264 Sunesta is a good deal heavier and has 2 degrees more dead rise with similar power output working against it for top speed and fuel economy numbers. In short, that 236 SSx is a fun and rewarding ride. Volvo could probably opt for the LS-A or maybe newer LT-4 supercharged engine to reach 550+ hp but don't seem interested in that market for whatever reason. Wish Merc had brought their QCV4 engine series down to the 380 plus hp range by making a smaller cubic inch and detuned version. That is a serious engine that can run wide open pretty much all day. We'll see how the direct injection works out long term reliability wise for the new Volvo 6.2L, 5.3L and 4.3L engines. Only time will tell. FWIW, in our area, we can only get 91 octane fuel with no ethanol for marinas. Unless someone has a direct question to me, this will be my only post to this thread.
  13. I don't own a 257 SSx, nor do I wish to speak for anyone else, but if I had the cash for a new 25' sterndrive sport boat, pretty sure that would be my first pick. Personally I would opt for a Volvo GM 6.0L or latest Gen V 6.2L version powertrain . Made in V8-350, V8-380, or V8-430 hp versions vs. the MerCruiser 8.2L big block offerings. Latest Volvo GM Gen V 6.2L offers direct fuel injection, along with closed cooling, all aluminum design, variable valve timing and super easy winterization feature. Weighs about 300 lbs. less than the MerCruiser 8.2L engines. The only real gripe I have with Volvo vs. Merc is that they are loud for exhaust noise, and EVC is a must have IMO to help tame throttle changes for tubing, etc. Another 25' that is pretty nice is a Cobalt R5, but the bucket seats aren't even close to the Chaparral style for comfort or useability. Don't understand why Cobalt still uses them, but they're rubbish. 257 SSx is easily better boat all around at least to me. Here's a video that I found to bet the most entertaining. Back from 2013, but the basic design and features are essentially unchanged. Have fun shopping. Price wise, '07 246 SSi was essentially a 230 SSi with a new deck. SSx is Chaparral's premier line, and have features and content to match.
  14. Nice looking boat. Lots of nice touches. Windlass, seating layout, dash and head design look to be fantastic. A few items I'm so no enthused about: - Simrad and Garmin glass cockpit; I personally like Garmin (a personal preference) but the older SSi design dash switches worked well for seeing at night. Not a fan of these new dash switches when using them in the dark. - 3 piece vs 5 piece windshield had more eye candy and superior sight line IMHO - Chaparral seems to have gone away from using proper large oval grab rails on top of the deck in the bow like the older 256 SSi, etc. used. Oval design fit so much nicer than the round tube shape used on these later models - Cobalt look to the rear of the boat has some drawbacks...that rear transom area is just waiting to have gel coat fade issues form the sun and the rear cleats will give chaffing problems from a dock line going forward. See these 2 exact issues on Cobalt's ALL the time. No design is perfect however and I'm sure Chaparral will do well with this one.
  15. I don't wish to muddy the waters, but I have a different view. The only 6.2 litre engine I'd consider for the 287 SSx is the much newer GM LS-series based current gen 5 small block used for the latest Volvo V8-350, V8-380 and V8-430 engines. The latest MerCruiser 6.2L is their own design based heavily off the 1996 and newer GM 5.7L cast iron small block V8 engine... Volvo 6.2L engines are all aluminum, (300 lbs. lighter than 8.2L) with variable valve timing, closed cooling, direct injection, 6-bolt main and easier to winterize and maintain. In fact, I prefer the new 6.2L Volvo to the old school GM based big block used by MerCruiser for their 8.2L versions. I can't find the original video Volvo had when they first introduced the V8-380 and V8-430 but they handily beat the 8.2L engines for hole shot, mid range and fuel economy. I was skeptical until I drove those engines for the first time. Always power on tap. (comparison video had identical Formula boats with competing 380 hp engines) The only things I don't like vs the MerCruiser offerings is louder exhaust noise and abrupt harshness when shifting into forward or reverse. Recommend taking one for a drive to see if those 2 cons are a factor. Exhaust is louder on the Volvo as the exhaust partially comes out from the rear of the cavitation plate, and and Volvo made a change to their cone clutch design about 5 years ago so far as I recall. NOTE: EVC option IMHO is a must have to help make throttle transitions smoother especially for water sports. If it comes down to cost, than I'd go Volvo V8-350 vs MerCruiser 6.2L 350 hp.
  16. Contact Cecil Marine and see if the factory ESP for a 204 SSi is still available. 196/200 SSi used the same hull as the 2004-2008 204 SSi. I put a factory ESP on my 2001 186 SSi along with the correct SeaDek kit, and IMHO, getting both is well worth the cost and time. So much safer and easier to get on the off the boat from both the dock and from the water. SeaDek offers equal parts grip and comfort without getting hot on the feet. With the factory ESP, the boarding ladder is also mounted on the STBD side, so I installed a Chaparral 16" oval grab rail like the factory did on those boats when the ESP was option was ordered with the boat. Factory ESP will take your boats length overall from 19'' 4" to 21' 4" Do a search for instructions on how to install an esp; lots of posts on the forum, but probably short on pictures from changes made by photobucket. Say 5 hours for 2 people and gear. NOTE: no instructions come with the factory ESP kit. Hardware is included though. So far as I can tell for SeaDek, they want 2 kits ordered; 1 for the optional factory ESP, and 1 for the integrated swim platform. I know the picture below is of a 210 SSi, and that the factory ESP for your particular model is a little deeper and wider, but it gives you an idea of what the project could look like. NOTE: SeaDek now offers 3 different colours together as a option instead of the standard 2 colours of previous years. i.e. black, blue and brown. Wish I had my picture to show you as it looked sharp. Hope this helps. Chris
  17. Very easiest thing for you to do is purchase an entire new key switch assy. Most marinas keep these in stock as they are rather standard for the industry. Crescent wrench and a # 2 Phillips screw driver are all that is really required for tools. Your switch is the 3 pin long neck standard version. An example that would be a direct replacement is shown below. Quick and easy re&re, and not expensive. If you wanted to get fancy, and had the required Deutsch connector and tools, you could install a 2008 and later style Chaparral switch that offers a nicer automotive design and feel, but the switch, connectors, and tools are not cheap and is rather time consuming for wiring, etc. I installed one in my own 2001 boat as I had all the parts and tools on hand, so it can be done at least.
  18. Just me personally, but I would go with the newer Bolt version over older style hydraulic system from Bennett. Appears from your above picture that you have the original dash design that had the round analog gauges. Not a lot of options really. Probably to the right of the steering console. For the 2008 and later models that used the square digital gauges, I would recommend removing the fake upper right gauge, and doing a custom install for the optional Bolt controller with indicator. Would take some work, but would provide the best working and most functional layout. Just my thoughts.
  19. I don't think you'll have to remove the engine; no doubt it will be a tight fit. Recommend removing the Gen III cool fuel module above the seawater pump to make access easier and faster. Found a video showing a MerCruiser small block V8 that will be quite similar in nature. NOTE: ensure you first find and disconnect the gray and green air pump hoses that drain the seawater pump for your 8.2L Mag - engine in video was not equipped with this option. Push in on fittings # 21 in the picture below to remove and install the air hoses again. At any rate, if you find the internal brass housings are badly grooved, I would recommend replacing with a ss Hardin Marine Gen 7 aftermarket kit with the pulley installed. This kit uses the older Bravo 59362T style impeller. Far superior to the OEM pump IMHO. If you were to go with a Hardin kit, you would retain item # 10
  20. Does your audio alarm give a short beep when you turn the key switch from the 'off' position to the 'on' position? Also, does your boat have SmartCraft gauges, specifically the tachometer, or does the dash have standard analog gauges like in the picture below? I rather doubt you have the SmartCraft gauge set up used on later models. Example shown in the 2nd picture. (beautiful helm was not titled by me...) Lastly, 2002 was a year or transition from older style MerCruiser fuel injected engines to later style fuel injected engines that were SmartCraft compatible. MerCruiser also continued making carburetor equipped models too. For fuel injected offerings, a majority of 2002 boats probably had the previous generation 2001 engines installed; just the way it is for logistically for production and assembly on the factory floor to this day. As others have mentioned, REALLY need to know what exact engine version you have in the boat to help. If fuel injected, do you happen to see the diamond shaped decal that says SmartCraft like in the picture below? Can be seen under and to the right of '350 Mag MPI'. I only ask this as differing generation of engines can have specific issues. If fuel injected, my gut feeling is the high pressure fuel pump is not making proper fuel pressure. When the engine reaches 4500 RPM in neutral, are you not getting an audio beep alarm? Audio alarm should come on at roughly 3000+ RPM in neutral if the engine is a SmartCraft equipped MPI engine for engine overspeed in neutral.
  21. Sure sounds like a faulty IAC valve for the hard starting with fuel advanced required. As for the smoking and rough running, that sounds like a faulty fuel pressure regulator causing too much fuel pressure, or faulty fuel pump perhaps causing too little fuel pressure. Mercury / Quicksilver part # 862998 for the IAC valve, and 863112 for the IAC gasket, and 863829 for the IAC muffler inside the throttle body. Items # 16, 15, and # 6 in the top picture. Use some intake and throttle body cleaner spray to clean out the plenum (item # 14 in the bottom picture) under the IAC valve as it is probably in need of a good cleaning. Regulator is part # 13 in the picture below.
  22. Personally found the 2006 246 SSi rode very well; reason for this is it shares the same hull as the 230 and 235 SSi which in short are excellent boats; probably the best I've driven for a 25' and under length overall. Volvo 8.1L is lots; should be fun. 2009 and newer 246 SSi WT models ride really well too. Have a little more all around performance, but with the hull pad, does not provide quite as much the comfort as the older 2006 246 SSi. HUGE difference in ride between the 2005 216 Sunesta and the 2006 246 SSi. Power and space will be a serious upgrade too. Certainly agree with nkdenton's assesment of what makes a good riding boat.
  23. What you're describing certainly sounds like a faulty water pressure sensor for a 2001 and new MPI equipped MerCruiser. Classic symptom. However, if you have a 1995 1930 SS, than I would guess your engine is carbureted. In such a case, you would only have audio alarm sound for: - low engine oil pressure, low gear oil level in reservoir, and engine overheating If everything looks good, and you have a carb'd MerCruiser, than first thing I'd look at is the float in the gear oil reservoir. Typically fastest way to test is to get a new gear oil reservoir. Leaving it empty of gear oil, connect the wires, and place the new empty gear oil reservoir upside down and go for a test drive. The new gear oil reservoir being upside down of course shows the alarm system that the float is in the desired position, while the old reservoir still has gear oil to help maintain the correct level. Failing that, and with the problem occuring at slower speeds, my next guess would be a faulty or partially plugged engine oil pressure sensor. When RPM rises past a certain point, maybe the sensor can 'see' required oil pressure (not to be confused with the oil pressure sender which supplies oil pressure info to your dash gauge) Oil pressure sensor for the audio alarm system and the oil pressure sender for the dash oil pressure gauge are on separate circuits. Item # 12 in the picture below is the oil pressure sensor for the audio alarm system. Mercury / Quicksilver part # 805605A1
  24. Been a while since I did my last black OEM original style mat removal and replaced with Seadek, but it actually pulled off pretty well. (mind you, that black mat had only been on the 2 seasons) Spent some time afterwards with a high pressure hot water sprayer to remove the lions share of the old residue. Products like Goo Gone work well too. Here's a video from Seadek on how to remove the old pad and install the new.
  25. For that particular engine, the alarm only sounds for low engine oil pressure, low gear oil, and engine over heat. Your engine oil pressure gauge and the engine oil pressure sensor are on different circuits. Thus if the engine oil pressure shows as low during operation, and the alarm is sounding, one can surmise low engine oil pressure is in fact happening. One other possiblility is that the float inside the gear oil reservoir no longer floats properly and thus setting off the alarm; have seen that before. Having said that, I have an intermittent audio alarm that comes on for my 2001 MerCruiser 4.3L carb'd engine. Not a constant beep which the carb'd engines of that time did (either silent or constant) so I think the intermittent short chirping is caused by a wiring issue of some kind. I hated to do it, but it happened enough that I disconnected the horn after looking into the issue for severa hours with our head tech at work and not being able to find the cause. Now I just watch my gauges very closely when driving the boat seeing I don't have an early warning alarm system.