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Shepherd1

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Everything posted by Shepherd1

  1. Shepherd1

    Power for 227 SSX

    All LS and Gen V engines from GM are old school OHV of course - work really well though as you say.
  2. Shepherd1

    Power for 227 SSX

    MerCruiser's 4.5L V6 and 6.2L V8 engines are actually cast iron vs aluminum like the Gen V GM engines Volvo uses. Correct, Volvo uses aluminum block, heads and exhaust while Mercury uses all cast iron. The reasons I was told according to a Mercury sales rep are no need for closed cooling as standard, reliable process and durability. Volvo to my mind went for power to weight, proven to be tough, better fuel economy and latest technology. I have not driven a 227/237 SSx but have driven a Cobalt R3 which is essentially the same sized and a direct competitor in its class. As soon as a person drives that model with a Volvo V8-300 5.3L Gen V engine, you'll feel the power difference vs older Gen 1e MerCruiser and Volvo engines. There's still power on tap at 4/5 throttle and the engine is eager to rev to WOT - older Gen 1e stuff is a little lackluster in this regard and the latest MerCruiser stuff just doesn't match up very well IMHO to GM Gen V product. Do not mean to knock Mercury - their latest V6 and V8 outboard 4-stroke products are simply stunning, silent, powerful and fuel efficient. And their Racing stern drive division QCV4 engines are certainly high tech and tough. Was really hoping that Merc would have made a smaller engine based off their 9.0L/ 552 cid DOHC V8 Racing engine (say a 6.0L version) but alas that was not to be. They do make a 7.0L based on GM's LS small block but they add their own 32 valve DOHC heads that they install and call it the SB4 - makes 750 hp naturally aspirated on pump gas. Automotive crate engine application only though... https://www.enginelabs.com/news/sema-2016-mercury-racing-releases-750-hp-32-valve-ls-crate-engine/
  3. Shepherd1

    Power for 227 SSX

    I'm going to take a slightly different stance. Given your description of how you plan on using the boat, I would look for a 227/237 SSx with 300 hp - preferably the Volvo 5.3 V8-300 Dual Prop version. Going to give you IMHO the best performance and fuel economy vs the MerCruiser 6.2L simply based on power to weight ratio and technology. Volvo is using the GM Marine LS series 4.3L/5.3L Gen V engines that are all aluminum vs cast iron with the Merc options, in addition to having variable valve timing and direct injection. NOTE: MerCruiser makes their own engines - the 4.5L V6 is a near clone of the GM old style Gen 1e 262/4.3L V6, while their current 6.2L is a near clone of the venerable Gen 1e 350/5.7L Volvo's current V6-200/240/280 hp models are from the GM Gen V 262/4.3L V6 which is a totally different engine than the Gen 1e 262/4.3L V6 version even though they're the same displacement. V6 options will work too on that boat, but should you go this way, I would HIGHLY recommend getting the Bravo 3/Dual Prop versions vs single prop Alpha 1 / SX-A. Difference in favour of Bravo 3 / Dual Prop is akin to having 4 wheel drive in winter conditions. In my experience with boats this size, the V8 with Bravo 3 / Dual Prop will be very close in fuel economy in real world scenarios with the V6 single prop. (cruising speeds will be a little higher with V8 vs V6 too) https://www.gmmarinepower.com/products.html Comparison of MerCruisers 4.5L V6 vs their old 5.0L V8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBvqvGB3b4Y https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBvqvGB3b4Y https://www.gmmarinepower.com/products.html
  4. Shepherd1

    Warranty - Cone Clutch

    Just my personal observation, but I find if a person uses the joystick / Axius option, then the cone clutch operates a lot more in that B3 drive than during normal docking. Would be interested in seeing the condition of the gear oil at the 200 hour mark (I am assuming it would have last been changed out 100 hours earlier and was probably in dire need of replacement) That being said, I would hope Mercury will come to the table. NOTE: around 2007 when Volvo introduced their DPS-A they had a lot more 'clunk' when they go into gear than older DP-SM models. This was a result of Volvo wanting to make the cone clutch of these drives be more durable. Kind of cringe worthy though on say a 23' boat or Joystick equipped boats with a DPS-A or -B when shifting into gear compared to the old DP-SM drives which were very smooth and quiet when going into gear. Mercury conversely improved their Bravo 3 in 2005 and went with a very smooth and quite design that is still used today.
  5. Shepherd1

    Newbie with a '95 1930 SS

    Understood. You sound like you're mechanically savvy. For pulling the engine, I recommend removing the lag bolts from the stringers, and leaving the engine mounts alone to allow for faster re & re time with no need to adjust the engine mounts or their fasteners. As for the swim platform, it's too bad they didn't come as standard equipment at that time from the factory. Adding SeaDek on top of the aftermarket swim platform and especially the integrated swim platform and lids adds a lot more comfort and safety again. (the cooler lids and non-skid used on the SS boats of that era were quite slippery and angled to boot) Gatorstep is another option. Below is a picture of our 01' 186 SSi with custom SeaDek and factory ESP that I installed. Of all the mods I have had done to the boat, the top 5 list in priority have been: 1. the addition of the ESP with SeaDek 2. installed Chaparral sourced late model premium bucket seats (not cheap, but so much more comfortable and versatile than original buckets) 3. installed 4 blade Mercury ss prop (amazing grip - we do a lot of water sports) 4. installed Lenco trim tabs and indicator switch 5. had a new custom cockpit and bow cover with zipper fabricated and installed (no more water gets in where the bow cover meets the windshield) In a way I envy you; about at the end mods to our boat and I think a project boat for the right price would be fun.
  6. Shepherd1

    1994 Chaparral 190 SL Limited Prop

    On that hull if you were thinking of switching out to a new aluminum prop, and are currently running a Mercury 3 blade aluminum prop, I would recommend the same pitch 4 blade aluminum Mercury SpitFire or Quicksilver Nemesis prop. NOTE: the Quicksilver Nemesis is essentially the same prop but does not have a Flo Torq II hub kit like the Mercury version does. Typically a 19" or 21" pitch is what is used on your given set up. Marine Spitfire 4-Blade Aluminum Prop 14 x 21 Propeller 48-8M0084496
  7. Shepherd1

    Newbie with a '95 1930 SS

    If you can get the boat running and operating properly, what a great find! I like that model. With the cover having been off the boat, I'm hoping water simply got into the engine from the carb and into the trim pump from the vent/fill cap. Should we assume the heads are good and not the cause of the water getting into the engine, then it will take a minimum of 3 oil and filter changes to purge the milk shake from the engine. Recommend Mercury / Quicksilver 25w40 conventional or 25w40 semi synthetic or an equivalent grade of marine engine oil. 10w30 conventional is too light. For the power trim system, you will need to purge the water from the system due to the fact that the trim cylinders won't be able to bounce up in the case of a shoal impact. Should the boat hit a shoal with water in the trim system, the drive is often sheared off at the MerCruiser decals on the upper drive shaft housing and people in the cockpit smash their teeth on the windshield - no joke. Use 10w30 engine oil - take care to not overfill the reservoir - THE DRIVE NEEDS TO BE IN THE FULL DOWN POSITION TO ACCURATELY READ THE OIL LEVEL. Even with an oil sucker such as a Pela 650, the bottom of the trim pump reservoir is shaped in a grid like pattern that severely limits access to the sucking hose, and pretty much means you'll need to remove the reservoir from the motor to pour out the milk shake. Loosen off a hose end from each power trim cylinder with a line wrench to purge the oil - is really a 2 person job. Lastly, to change the impeller in the Alpha 1 Gen II gear case, you will need to drain the gear oil first. Highly recommend filling with Mercury / Quicksilver High Performance Gear Oil (forest green in colour) Hope the following videos help. Lastly, should you get the boat running properly and have sufficient funds available, I HIGHLY recommend installing an aftermarket extended swim platform - totally transforms the boat and makes it far easier and safer to get on and off the boat from the water, dock or trailer. Chris http://www.swimplatforms.com/showImages.php?mk=298
  8. Shepherd1

    Sunseta

    Don't know how old a used Sunesta model you're looking at, but 2007 and older models typically had a lot less dead rise than 2008 and later Wide Tech models which essentially started using deeper dead rise hull like their SSi model counterparts. Dead rise is the angle of the vee at the transom. 20 degrees is good, 22 degrees is even better for handling rough, choppy water. Some 2007 and older Sunesta models had as little as 16 degrees but usually 18 degrees was the norm. Vortex model shown below, but gives you an idea.
  9. Shepherd1

    Impeller Part Number

    I missed it the first few times I went looking for your engine too. Look again but higher up in the list under V8-225 and then you'll see your engine included in that list. Typically I find marinepartseurope.com to be easier to use (this website is actually operated by Volvo Penta) as you can see the thumbnail image come up without having to click on each description. http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-47702831-20-41744.aspx If you should choose to replace the distributor cap and spark plugs in future, would however recommend going with Mercury part # 8m0061335 which has brass terminals plus the rotor along with sourcing NGK ITR4A-15 Laser Platinum spark plugs. (they come pre-gapped) Volvo sourced cap has aluminum terminals which foul faster from humidity and corrosion. Volvo also uses Champion spark plugs - simply mention NGK as I prefer that spark plug company and version.
  10. Shepherd1

    My first boat "Not starting" situation

    You'll have MerCruiser Thunderbolt IV ignition, and as was mentioned earlier, you can have spark at the coil but nothing further on where it matters. Highly recommend you perform the following Thunderbolt IV trouble shooting to help identify the real problem. NOTE: should the ignition sensor (located under the distributor prove to be the problem, HIGHLY recommend the following parts: 1 of 892150K02 or Q02 - Mercury or Quicksilver ignition sensor (newer style) 1 of 805759T3 or Q3 - Mercury or Quicksilver distributor cap and rotor kit V8 (rotor typically gets bent during removal - also apply some grease to the 4 brass screws holding the distributor cap down) Link below to trouble shooting as I could not attach a picture... https://bpi.ebasicpower.com/faq/MERCSB92-11.htm Link below to look up of parts. NOTE: some models had the ignition amplifier (which controls engine timing) mounted typically to the exhaust manifold, while some other models mounted them on the back of the distributor. https://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serialize(value)/5.7L_2_BBL._GM_350_V-8_1988-1995/816596/1014-110 https://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serialize(value)/5.7L_2_BBL._GM_350_V-8_1988-1995/816596/1014-100 https://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serialize(value)/5.7L_2_BBL._GM_350_V-8_1988-1995/816596/1014-90 Hope this helps. Chris
  11. Shepherd1

    Help with Engine Shutdown, Fuel Filter?

    Good to hear! Just to clarify, this is the 90 amp fuse on the starter motor itself? Part # 88-79023a91
  12. Shepherd1

    Rub Rail Replacement

    I don't mean to be difficult, but one option you may wish to consider is installing the later style ss insert and white gunnel molding used on say a MY 2008 210 SSi. Essentially the same mold and hull as yours but the interior deck is different. SS rub rail insert lengths should be the same for the 2130 SS and 210 SSi. Cecil Marine could probably give you a quote on the parts. All the ss inserts are the same part # and length, except each model uses 1 special length ss insert that matches the gap left. I know for a fact the factory extended swim platform of the 2008 210 SSi fits the 2130 / 2135 SS like a glove - again, Chaparral simply used your hull for the 210 SS / SSi models. Taco Marine built the older vinyl rub rail for the 2130 SS models and I wouldn't be surprised if they make the current style too. NOTE: on the factory ESP, they simply installed end caps to finish the look where the rub rail ends. The last time I worked on replacing rub rail (newer style) we used a large tub of very hot water to help the white rub rail bend around the contours on the hull. http://tacomarine.com/rub-rail http://tacomarine.com/v21-9811
  13. Shepherd1

    Loose Bravo III drive

    If a person has had the gimbal ring and square / square steering shaft replaced recently, it is EXTREMELY important to get the upper bolts torqued after 20 hours, and then at the end of each and every season. If this does not happen, one can expect premature wear of the new components. Picture below shows the u-bolt design. Newer style uses larger bolts and nuts that I believe need 73 lb-ft where the older u-bolt asked for 58 lb-ft - I could very very well be wrong on the exact torque specs. I also forget the size of socket difference between older style and newer...9/16" vs 5/8"?
  14. Shepherd1

    Storm damage - Can I get some help?

    I believe the 2006 Signature used a fibreglass arch (same boat as say 2001 280 Signature) unlike the 2006 280 Signature which used an aluminum arch. Probably be a serious PITA, but the fibreglass shop may be able to make a mold from another 290 Signature or earlier 280 Sig. If memory serves, Chaparral made that fibreglass arch in house but maybe I'm suffering from early signs of dementia... Depending on your arch and canvas, I would personally go with the 2008 style 290 Signature arch and canvas as Chaparral made some changes to the way the canvas and track integrated together. May not be that readily apparent, but the 2 links below may help to show what I'm talking about. So far as I understand, the 2006 and 2008 290 Signature used the same arch but canvas was different design, just as say a 2001 280 Signature used a completely different arch canvas design that was no where near as nice as your current design was. 2006 290 Signature https://ca.boats.com/power-boats/2006-chaparral-signature-290-6869906/?refSource=standard listing 2008 290 Signature https://ca.boats.com/power-boats/2008-chaparral-290-signature-6913884/?refSource=standard listing
  15. Shepherd1

    220 ssi with Bravo 3 high altitude

    double post
  16. Shepherd1

    220 ssi with Bravo 3 high altitude

    I think somewhere around 2005 or so Chaparral switched over to the 2.20 gear ratio as factory default from the 2.00 gear ratio on the 220 SSi with MerCruiser 350 Mag MPI power. Besides dropping down 4" of pitch, the other thing I would recommend is putting your drive in the 'Bravo 1 position' to aid in faster planing with less bow rise. I have never found any adverse handling on that hull from doing so; one of the very best hulls out there IMHO even against new makes and models of that size range. NOTE: will require you to recalibrate the trim sender on the STBD side of the gimbal ring to allow the trim gauge to read accurately if going from Bravo 3 to Bravo 1 position.
  17. Shepherd1

    1994 Chaparral 190 SL Limited

    Here's a few pictures of what the boat looks like with an aftermarket swim platform. Totally transforms that model... http://www.swimplatforms.com/showImages.php?mk=935
  18. Shepherd1

    Right spark plugs?

    W is right on as per usual. NOTE: NGK BPR6EFS for MerCruiser 3.0L Carb roughly from 1996-97 to even present day 3.0L EFI EC (catalytic converter) variants. AC-Delco MR43LTS (MerCruiser part # 33-862029) 1.14 mm (0.045" gap) aka and I recommend using NGK BPR6EFS gapped at 0.045" (MerCruiser part # 33-816336Q) For 3.0L Carb with EST ignition (electronic spark timing) and all 3.0L MPI EC models I highly recommend replacing the cap and rotor kit too; cheap and really easy to replace as corrosion on the underside terminals can be an issue. Mercury part # 811635K2 or Quicksilver part # 811635Q2 Here's a picture below of what the EST ignition system looks like. Standard from 1996-97 to present day, and optional before then.
  19. Shepherd1

    2000 216SSI Windshield - Anyone have one?

    Hmmm, that STBD windshield might be the exact same as say a 2005 220 SSi. Might try calling Cecil Marine; they must have run into this scenario many times. Won't be cheap unfortunately if TM can make you a replacement, and does take some time to be manufactured. Chris
  20. Shepherd1

    Dumb question #16 - How many Impellers do I have?

    I've found that impeller design to usually only last 3 seasons in fresh water; anything after that is bonus. Given that particular style of pump, if a person wants to replace the impeller as maintenance, than use Mercury part # 46-807151A14 which is the impeller and plastic body kit vs. just the impeller itself. NOTE: during re&re of the impeller, great care needs to be taken to ensure the intake hose goes on the correct impeller housing port to prevent a possible overheat. That pump was designed for both left hand and right hand rotation engines, vs newer MerCruiser pump designs which are designed for left hand rotation engines only - these later engines use 2 different sized ports, so hoses can't be installed incorrectly. I usually tape/tag the intake hose and use a white marker on the old housing so I don't make a dumb mistake. http://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serial/5.7L_EFI_GM_350_V-8_1998/809500+98/2704-150
  21. Shepherd1

    2350 SX help

    Never heard or run across this, and I've been in the marine industry in the Great White North for 20+ years now...as mentioned above, we essentially follow the same rules as US for boating. I would get the engine, transom and drive serial numbers, and do a check that way. I don't know what the boat has for power, but if MerCruiser, the engine serial will be on a ss plate riveted to the block just above the starter. Even if found however, entirely possible the engine is not original to the boat, but if it is, and everything was registered properly back in the day, you may be able to get the original HIN #. If you find an engine serial number, send me a PM. Chris
  22. Shepherd1

    SS Prop on 21 H2O?

    I haven't driven the 21' Sport, but I do know the 18' and 19' H20 would porpoise very easily and would take pretty much zero trim. Just a guess, but I'm thinking a combination of the boat being generally light in weight and the hull pad design. The phased out 216 SSi WT which on paper is close to the 21 Sport H20 for sure would take trim, and it used a hull pad too, but was heavier. The early MY 2000's 216 SSi which used a conventional rounded hull bottom would take a lot more trim and rode a little nicer in rough water than the later 216 SSi WT, but was slower to plane and required more power to stay on plane. On any Chaparral's I've driven that used a hull pad, (only some of the cruisers now that don't) installing a stainless steel prop was a marked improvement over aluminum. I would try a different prop such as a Mercury Revolution 4. Gives tremendous holding in the corners, and may allow for more stern lift vs bow lift in comparison to your current prop. Hull pads provide excellent performance numbers as well as little bow rise and quick planing times, but do require a prop that is very resistant to cavitation and ventilation. The good news IMHO is that a very aggressive ss prop is actually an option. Do know that the Rev4 is a better alternative than say the regular Mercury Enertia version for your boat. The Enertia ECO version would be an option to consider too. Given your current set up and RPM which is near perfect, try a 19" pitch, in right hand rotation of course. Part # 48-857026A46 - ONLY USE WITH SOLID PVS PLUGS THOUGH! An older discontinued Mercury Offshore Series 4 blade ss prop in 19" pitch would work well too if looking for a used option. For the money, installing Smart Tabs with probably only 40-60 lb actuator strength would probably help A LOT. NOTE: if a person were to go with Smart Tabs, then I would HIGHLY recommend getting the optional Pro Troller flip up brackets. The reason for this is for wake boarding, etc. sometimes tabs can have an adverse affect on wake shape. The Pro Troller bracket option would allow for the tabs to be raised up and out of the way essentially out of the water (the exact opposite of what those brackets were designed for) The ultimate cure for porpoising would be to install a proper trim tab system such as ZipWake, but we're talking big money. Smart Tabs and Rev4 prop will probably achieve 90% of what a ZipWake system would provide, at 1/3 the cost, especially if you purchased a used prop.
  23. Shepherd1

    New 2019 H2O Sport

    I haven't driven the 21' Sport, but I do know the 18' and 19' H20 would porpoise very easily and would take pretty much zero trim. Just a guess, but I'm thinking a combination of the boat being generally light in weight and the hull pad design. The phased out 216 SSi WT which on paper is close to the 21 Sport H20 for sure would take trim, and it used a hull pad too, but was heavier. The early MY 2000's 216 SSi which used a conventional rounded hull bottom would take a lot more trim and rode a little nicer in rough water than the later 216 SSi WT, but was slower to plane and required more power to stay on plane. If the boat was mine, I would try a different prop such as a Mercury Revolution 4. Gives tremendous holding in the corners, and may allow for more stern lift vs bow lift in comparison to your current prop. Hull pads provide excellent performance numbers as well as little bow rise and quick planing times, but do require a prop that is very resistant to cavitation and ventilation. For the money, installing Smart Tabs with probably only 40-60 lb actuator strength would probably help A LOT. NOTE: if a person were to go with Smart Tabs, then I would HIGHLY recommend getting the optional Pro Troller flip up brackets. The reason for this is for wake boarding, etc. sometimes tabs can have an adverse affect on wake shape. The Pro Troller bracket option would allow for the tabs to be raised up and out of the way essentially out of the water (the exact opposite of what those brackets were designed for) The ultimate cure for porpoising would be to install a proper trim tab system such as ZipWake, but we're talking big money. Smart Tabs and Rev4 prop will probably achieve 90% of what a ZipWake system would provide, at 1/3 the cost, especially if you purchased a used prop.
  24. Shepherd1

    Looking for input on bow riders

    Can understand why you don't use the bow door ; given the Great White North, the bow door sure is a nice option for cooler days or evenings to help extend the boating season - keeps the wife happier at any rate! Very nice upgrade on the stereo too.
  25. Shepherd1

    Looking for input on bow riders

    Can you give me a little more back ground on the vent / filter issues?
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