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About delaney

  • Birthday 04/04/1973

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  • Location
    Holland, MI
  • Interests
    Boat in Lake Michigan / Lake Macatowa
    2012 327 SSX Twin Volvo 8.1L

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  1. I hear ya - for my issue boat was less than 2 years old. would never want a rebuilt used drive as my boat ages i would consider it knowing the cost difference. in the end these toys cost more than my first house so a bit of insurance wasnt going to break the bank - i am usually not a big fan of "extended warranties" but i also broke even on my wife's Yukon. U-joints and differential on a 4x4 had about the same result. wish it never was used but glad i had it. cost me about 2k but saved me that as well. these high $$ cars and boats have so many little things that eventually go wrong - its probably the reason i drive a Hyundai for me: 100,000 mile warranty including normal oil services. love the service.
  2. well - the crate cost of the new drive from Volvo was 7k alone - the other costs amounted to the close to 3k. if you have access to the tools and "other" than maybe but i doubt Volvo would just send you a new drive. it took me about 2 weeks for their mechanic to diagnose that the drive was a complete loss. they will always attempt to repair first. the mechanic had to send Volvo a complete parts needed list and hours to repair, etc. The actual repair or install of the new drive was easy (2 hrs) of work. the majority of the cost was in determining what happened and I also keep good records of regular drive fluid changes - believe me - Volvo was ok but they were fishing for ways to say it was caused by lack of maint. I agree that they should cover "more" but i also feel that the location of where my boat was stored took advantage as well. In New Buffalo they charged me $150 to pull the boat and $150 to put it back in and a hefty fee to store it outside on blocks in a gravel parking lot because they could. The mechanic that came down was great and is now my current mechanic as we moved the boat up to Michigan. His hourly rate was higher than Volvo allowed but commensurate w/ area i live in.
  3. keep it in neutral and use wood to block the props - no need to put it in gear if you use the wood block
  4. I used mine - for some weird fluke - both my upper and lower gears blew apart creating a catastrophic event. if i didn't have the extended warranty, the entire cost of : 1. Tow 2. pulling boat 3. initial inspection 4. storage costs at a marina not my home port 5. new drive 6. disposal of old drive 7. installation in full disclosure, the extended warranty did not cover: 1. entire storage cost. they gave a max / day (not even close but better than zero) 2. new drive fluids 3. travel costs of mechanic - marina did not have an approved Volvo mech. - 2 hr travel cost each way for me. 4. they provided similar to a doctor a pre-determined rate / hour and amount of time to do repairs. i covered the balance my total bill was just under 10k - out of pocket for me was just over 1k For me, the extended warranty more than covered itself. BOAT (Break out another thousand) - costs add up quick for this hobby.
  5. no pins, just use a heavy duty socket and wrench to break the rear nut loose and not the flimsy prop tool wrench.
  6. volvo prop wrench tool this may require an adaptor to match threads 30 mm socket 1/2 drive torque block of wood use the 30mm socket w/ a larger wrench (1/2) or bigger to break the rear nut first. i use a block of wood while drive is in neutral - wedge the wood between the props and housing - don't use the prop tool as the shaft will bend, use that tool for hand threading or taking off after the nut is broken loose. then remove the rear prop, use the prop tool to remove the front prop nut, remove the front prop and clean the prop shaft and re-grease. reverse the order (torque the rear prop to 50 ft.lbs or 70 N-m whichever your torque wrench has shown on it. the lube oil screw or hex nut can be removed. I would suggest purchasing a few extra of these just to have - (8mm allen wrench) - Tip - remove this drain/fill first as there is still a vacuum on the drive and you will not make as much of a mess. once the screw is out, have a drain pan under the drive and remove the dipstick on top, and the vent screw on the side of the drive, you will need to take the cover off. do all this while the drive is up first, then when screws are removed lower the drive for draining. insert the fill tube - i have an adapter for mine to match the threads. screw it in and hand pump in the new drive fluid until it comes out the "vent" hole - not the dipstick - screw the vent back in and the dipstick first, then raise the drive and remove quickly the drain fill hose and screw in the plug. grease the shaft and put the props back on.
  7. well - assuming price is not a worry and they are equal - go for the extra HP. no one ever says "man, i wish i had less power" on a boat. if you are looking at maint., fuel economy, and performance. then you asking the never ending opinions to start (Merc vs Volvo) I would just guess that the 380 hp twins will get you consistantly in the mid to high 50's top end and the HO will see you in low 60's assuming all things stock.
  8. same hulls from water line down, the Sunesta will sit a bit closer to the water at the bow and in a steady chop will probably see a bit more spray than the SSX. the SSX will sit higher at bow but doesn't have access at bow - no ladder. layouts are very similar both fun boats.
  9. as a general rule, if you trailer your boat those types of bottom paint are not the best choices as being exposed to the air will start to oxidize and lose the effect you are wanting. that applies to boat lifts as well. hard bottom epoxy paints are for long duration in the water without moving (large cruisers that sit at the slip for long periods without use) Chap boats, sport boats in the water or trailered should stick w/ the ablative paints. multiple brands and different amounts of copper. I stand by my choice of the Petitt brand Bright White. i applied it professionally the first time and i buy (1) gallon every year and simply roll one coat on. i may give a few areas a 2nd coat such as the water line and the lift bunks but that is it. until you get close most people don't see the paint at all. as far as performance loss, i say Meh. who cares if i lost 1-2 mph its all ego anyways, can't tell you the last time i needed that extra 1 mph but the bottom is clean and requires much less work. Slipping a boat w/o paint is a bunch of acid washes and that works too but is a PITA.
  10. what i find interesting is the difference in information available to the public compared to the Fitz accident. In the Fitz accident navy released paths of both ships and reactions. navy is not releasing the path of either ship (that i can find online) from the McCain. I sound like a conspiracy theory person and usually i am not. i just cannot wrap my head around 2 accidents more or less the same. Maybe the first was a true accident and maybe the 2nd was a low cost version of terrorism or warfare (China??) to remove warships from the area. again, it would be the cheapest way to remove a multi-billion $$ ship from service (2 ships now) each w/ repairs bills into the hundreds of millions and years of repairs. So sad for the sailors who lost their lives - accident or other
  11. yeah, but that would require a new mount location and piping mods - its in a pretty good location, easy to get to just the mounts prevent any other options but the original
  12. I have had to replace mine as well. its a good idea to get some heat shrink wrap boots for the connections. I think mine started to leak due to adding small amounts of bleach to keep the water fresh. deteriorated the seals. i have switched to the tablets to see if that helps. i wanted to get the slightly larger pump to aid in water pressure in the bathroom sink but the grommet holes are not the same distances apart.
  13. the bigger the boat on that lake the more the lake opens up to you. from your table rock pic w/ your sunesta the bigger boat will have a few drawbacks. i assume you trailered your sunesta. a few things just to consider while on LM. 1. slip cost (are you planning on slipping in the city or elsewhere?) The cost to slip from 31st street and north to Montrose are fairly steep $$$ - further north to Evanston or south to the IN border are more affordable. Hammond is a good middle point as it is a short boat ride to either the city or the dunes areas and boaters beach (favorite anchor spot for many boaters) 2. the need for bottom paint (maint of paint from year to year) - unless you like a furry bottom, you will need bottom paint 3. winterizing / storage costs (you are considering a boat that most likely isn't a garage storage anymore) - if you store in a heated location winterizing is basically just draining the blocks and few other items (less $$$) if you store outside a full winterizing required and shrink wrap plus storage is $$$ 4. add'l fuel / insurance costs - no real big deal here just wanted to share. its a minor up charge but hey like others have stated "if you cannot put gas in the boat you shouldn't buy the boat" Lastly, I went from a sunesta to the 327 and it amazing how much more sqft it has and how much longer it takes to wash and wax it. when its in storage i need a ladder to get to it and takes me a full day to clean it and another to winterize it and i am in heated storage so i just drain the blocks and water tanks, & tender the batteries, oil, drive fluid, impeller, fuel filters
  14. So - the Navy announced the removal of the 7th Fleet commander yesterday. Probably just the start of major changes to come. The loss of 7 sailors on Fitz and now 10 more on the McCain. I still cannot figure our how a 800' long freighter broadsides a 500' long battle ready destroyer? Talk about a complete failure of seamanship. Even if this is a new form of terrorism - meaning, what if a foreign gov't paid freight captains to ram our battleships. it is plausible - a freighter appears harmless and has every right to be in the water relatively close to our ships traveling on the same course only to slightly alter course and rely on the ship to not react quickly enough. seems this happened twice in 2 months. how can the exact same accident happen? both ships were struck mid ship and basically removed (2) destroyers from the US Navy for the next few years while they are repaired or scrapped. $1billion in damage and 17 sailors lost. not to mention removal of our admiral, and most likely the officers and senior crews of both ships. that is quite the wound to our Navy with only minor damage done to a couple of container ships. if these accidents to our 7th fleet are new forms of warfare we are in a tough spot. any approaching non-military ship if fired on will have international uproar that a US vessel sunk a defenseless vessel. If they are simply accidents than our Navy and those crews were woefully incompetent especially the McCain crew as just 2 months earlier they should have learned a valuable lesson and all captains should have given orders to keep safe distances period!! Pardon my rant but (2) of my sons are entering the Navy and these recent accidents are unacceptable, the tragic loss of life over stupid actions or non actions by those in command have me concerned as a father and a citizen.
  15. before you jump in - go out a few times. spent my whole life boating lake michigan. unless you enjoy cruising from port to port on long distance runs I would bet a tank of gas that you never venture past 5 miles off shore, very few people do. even cruising one of the best views is the coast once you get a few miles off shore there isn't a shore to see. it is not like the ocean, when the waves are 3 feet or bigger they will pound you regardless of the size of boat (in a boat less than 40') pleasure boating is great on LM on waves of 1-2'. true the sunesta's dead rise is not as high for that lake as the SSX series, but to say no bow rider is not true again unless you want to cruise. most people boat a few miles from their harbor and a bow rider will provide alot more sqft for outdoor use. I had the 264 sunesta and moved up to the 327ssx for sqft and love the bow rider on the big lake. i would never cross the lake directly on it but i wouldn't on a cruiser less than 40' either