delaney

because i casually threw a # out there. here is my exact price to replace my anchor. 22lb delta SS - from West Marine = $489 pre-made 20' chain w/ 200' 1/2" rode = $230 1/2 anchor chain swivel = $65 total = $784 x tax 6% = $831 i'll assume free shipping with my west marine membership, boating is an expensive hobby its weird how these topics take a strange turn from a fairly broad statement about the headaches of losing an anchor. i always need to remember to be 100% specific on this forum. and yes i also misstated and called my original anchor a danforth when in fact its a delta. my stern anchor is a standard fluke type 9lb. would be $49 to replace plus 8' chain.

Lewmar Delta Stainless Steel Anchor Write the First Review $649.99 - $1,269.99 to replace mine would be $975 - 22 lb not including the 50' of chain this was from Bass Pro site. i also have seen them for sale prices in the 22 lb range for around $500 as well - so ok maybe not 1k if you shop around but point is nothing is cheap. didn't think when i gave up looking for canvas that replacing a sunbrella canvas would cost 2k

i am 50/50 sure that it did just that and wrapped around a piling, just the water temp and winds were too strong and it wasn't safe for me as i was alone, pouring down rain, high winds and cold water. i tried to see if was just near the stern but i have learned my lesson about safety a few years ago, i believed i shared my story of an electrical fire on the boat caused by me being impatient with getting underway (left my jumper cables hooked up to the jumper posts while underway and caught the ski locker mat on fire) - i cussed myself out and i have less $$ because of it, but i am still breathing. that water temp takes an effect on you very quickly. while swimming against a current and holding your breath. if i would have found it i don't know if i could've brought it up as it was too deep to touch the bottom anyways. I am heading back up next week to install the bubblers around the pier and blow out the water line for winter, maybe it will be on the shore

sunbrella canvas with the window in the middle. that window adds weight and it sunk - my lake is connected to lake michigan and really is fed by a river so big rains create a current out to lake michigan. winds were blowing opposite of current so who knows where it went. water is 8' at my lift and with the 7" of rain we had visibility in the water was maybe a 1' i am opting to not replace the window in the back canvas. in reality, i never used it as a camper, just a cover and without the window it will be lighter and much easier to stow. just got off the phone w/ Canvas Innovations - its a pretty cool process at least, they laser scan the arch and sides and take a few digital point measurements then a CAD program takes the 3D dimensions and converts to flats - so no need to create patterns - the flats are transferred to a 3D printer / cutter for canvas, then it moves to another machine to add the snaps and reinforcements. i just get to write the check

that too to replace a danforth anchor is easily a large grand not to mention the rode you need as well.

yeah!! I am trying to find humor in this and i certainly canvassed the water. i was hoping that the current and wind would wash it ashore - it probably will but in the spring after a 6 month soak rendering it useless. didn't think at all it would be that expensive to replace

I had another moment that cost $$ last week. Went to the pier to change oil, fuel filter, and clean the bilge. I took a day off of work so I wanted to get it done. unfortunately, the weather wasn't agreeable. Strong thunderstorms most of the morning. I have a camper cover on the boat so i figured i would work with it on. as i raised the engine hatch the cover was too tight so i had to unzip it. it is a 3 piece cover, zipped to the sides and to the arch. i left the zipper to the arch in tack. winds picked up to +25mph. as i was working under the hatch the winds unzipped the cover to the arch and after a few minutes (i also had the radio on so couldn't hear the flapping) the cover blew into the water - it probably was no more than 5 minutes that i noticed but it was nowhere to be found. it sunk. i put on a wetsuit and and attempted to swim around and feel for it. water was 50deg so only lasted about 20 min doing that - gone!!! boat is now out of water in storage and just got the estimate to replace the back cover - B.O.A.T - in my case 2 of the BOAT for this error. OUCH!!!

i have the 5212 - you should be able to upload the updated maps on the SD card from the Garmin website, then re-try.

do it for this year and over the winter attempt to learn to DIY for most of the items. engine mounts and drive service are a good investment. i would say from experience, do the fluid changes and water systems yourself and pay a bit extra and store in a heated storage indoors. shink wrap is fine but if left outside in the bitter cold the shrink wrap will expand and contract a bit and during the winter winds you will find that your gelcoat will get rubbed similar to leaving a bumper at the pier for the summer. it will buff out - or make sure the shrink wrap goes under the chines but the wind will vibrate it so be cautious. DIY on the water system is painfully easy. drain the water and use RV fluid (2/3 gallons and pump through until pink shows up in the faucets and showers. I winterize / protect my AC system the same, i just shut the lake fill valve and use the strainer to pour a gallon of RV fluid into the strainer and allow the AC to pull the fluid through - HOT water tank same process. 10 min job. invest in a mitivac oil extractor and change your own oil and filter, only real PITA is transfering the old oil to proper recycling center. if you store inside & heated, just pull the 4 blue drain plugs to drain the manifold and block or you can suck RV stuff through the outdrive if you really want to and spray some fogging oil as extra corrosion protection. start to finish if you DIY (not including that Merc Impeller) is about 2 hrs of your time.

i am a Great Lakes boater, we have fairly deep water within a few hundred yards from shore and with the periodic waves that hit the shore creates a sand bar about 50 yards from shore. Smaller boats drift over the sand bar and anchor very close to shore (10') but no one beaches, typically a bow and stern anchor and on a nice day hundreds of boats to enjoy the water and sand dunes. my boat is a bit bigger so i anchor just off the sand bar with the platform in about 4' of water. use the sand bar to play on and will have to swim or take a tube to get to the beach.

you can order those on amazon - i have created a parts list page and every August just re-order.

i wasn't curious about cruising, i wouldn't see any practical reason to do that. i was trying to describe while at anchor - the larger cruisers that have this feature don't pitch and roll as much while at anchor and 1-2 foot waves rock the boat up and down. but day boats like Chaps, hang out at anchor a lot. when a 2 foot wave rolls in, the bow comes up and the platform slaps the water and creates a bit of a spray. as the waves from other boats or the lake get bigger we are always very careful as having the platform come down on you can be dangerous, - so what happens when the platform is 12" under water and the waves lift the boat? that is a lot of force of displaced water coming up, just curious - maybe it makes it safer, i was just curious about the amount of stress on that platform. for those boating on inland lakes and have those rogue waves created by wake surfer boats and what happens.

that is a good reason - i have seen on a larger Center console a telescoping hard top that when lowered takes away the need for canvas / glass and seals the cockpit when not in use - that boat was too big to trailer but i see that application in a trailer size boat - as zipping up and snapping canvas is sometimes a chore

they took what is a storage locker / shower and shore power locker on my boat and replaced it with another seat - must have heard from others that more people enjoy the full beam rear seat. it appears from this pic above that they added more length to the platform to clear the tabs and drive. still believe that you can only deploy with the drive in down position which again prevents a 13k add on from use in shallow water where i would guess on a boat that size is what most people do. drive around a bit, ski etc than anchor off their favorite beach and socialize. or that is what i do at least. don't get the reason for a hinged arch when you get to a 30' boat - it couldn't buy you much room for trailering and more hydraulic or electric motors to maintain to have a hard top. the longer i have owned my boat the more i appreciate the simple maint. items that i can handle one more comment - those large swim platforms are very nice and i enjoy ours. the compression of waves under the platform and spray while at anchor would be interesting to see and what happens when that platform is 6" under water what happens - 6" of water lifting up and down will add considerable stress to the anchor rode and anchor davit don't you think

for 13k - the more i think of it - forget the generator and the platform, you can buy a nice wave runner (very nice one) and have that as an accessory