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About delaney

  • Birthday 04/04/1973

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  • Location
    Holland, MI
  • Interests
    Boat in Lake Michigan / Lake Macatowa
    2012 327 SSX Twin Volvo 8.1L

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  1. if you are only boating in normal good days, than any boat that fits your interior and performance criteria will be fine from row boat to cruiser. if you are asking if it is safe if you get caught in a storm - i would respond that any of the larger Chap boats handle chop very well, are free bailing, and can and will get you safely back to harbor if you are responsible. all the SSX model lines ride very well with the deep V hull and higher freeboard
  2. things that may help while on the water. as others have said, small tool set to include adjustable wrench. i always carry a qt of oil and a spare fuel filter, fuel is a common issue that doesn't take much room. i have a plastic bin that i keep bungie corded in the ski locker. also a good leatherman multi tool w/ a knife. use that more than anything. i find loose screws and i keep a tube of lock tite and a small tube of 5200 sealer for carpet screws that pop up, just take care of on the water and done. 1/2" size line is fine for a 26' boat
  3. the rear prop nut size is 30mm - i suggest a separate torque wrench & socket or larger bar to "break" the nut loose. the volvo prop tool has both the front and rear adapter but the handle is so small you will bend it
  4. true it is a lot of $$- you are pre-paying and for me it was asking myself ( i have twin engines) - so if a drive goes down what happens and who pays and how much. I don't have a trailer so costs add up very fast - it certainly is much more than general maint. - I had a recall issue but didn't know it until i was 10 miles from port. drive trim unit leaked and water destroyed it. that was a warranty issue but if that wasn't recalled, the cost would be on me the part alone is 1500 deer, installation, pulling the boat, putting back in, adds another grand x 2 drives. when my starboard lower & upper gears blew up, it was just past the factory warranty but within the extended one. if i didn't have the warranty, 8 grand for drive, drive time for mechanic, pulling the boat, storage of boat, putting boat back in, fluids, total bill was over 10k and that was for 1 drive. my out of pocket was about 1600 deer (warranty won't pay for travel time, only alllowances for pulling boat, storage and of course they say its a 2 hr job and mech says 3 hrs, i pay the difference) i am meticulous about maint. and i DIY so it was never negligence. I typically do NOT buy warranties for anything but there are a few that the downside is worth the $$ upfront. 1 - extended drive warranty for a boat, and 2- extended drivetrain warranty for a 4x4 - high $$ and high probability something will break - both have saved me thousands in the past 5 years. Yukon has had differentials replaced, U-Joints under extended warranty. don't know why, but my wife is tough on that truck
  5. everything is a numbers game, insurance is cost of risk, for me it was something that was negotiated into the deal. i would agree that a bolt on price after the fact you are not realizing any benefit. find a middle ground on what the boat is worth see if it is something they will throw in - i was able to get my extended warranty at a reduced rate. didn't get in thrown in all the way but i held out long enough to get movement by the dealer (took 2 months of back and forth)
  6. I am glad i had the extended Volvo warranty - The Chap one probably not worth it but the drives and engines cost a "boat load" made my back on mine
  7. Heated storage for the boat, i stopped the winterization process a few years ago, just drain the blocks pull the impeller housing to drain that and reinstall - i do put a bit of antifreeze n the water tank and AC filter but its not required just a habit. the PWC is in my garage and in Michigan will see very low temps garage is certainly warmer but below freezing. i use an air compressor to blow out the exhaust system per the manual. seems to work
  8. it has a boxy look to it - very similar to the Cobalt, it is a sharp look, my only head scratcher is why not incorporate the swim platform ladder like cobalt did? the full beam ladder that drops down as a full step is very nice vs the standard 4 rung ladder.
  9. my guess would be down the road - sensors will be added to the throttle body and the controls as a safety feature. glad to hear they took care of both you and the others at the dock
  10. - another random comment about a lake house. for us anything longer than 2 hrs commute was a law of diminishing returns. drives that take 2 hrs or shorter you can make on a whim any longer and that requires a commitment. you will use your lake house more if its in that 2 hr drive range. everyone is different but that helped us out. there were better deals 3 and 4 hrs away for us but what is truly better is being there!!! same reason we bought a slip instead of trailering - we used the boat more
  11. bought mine at the Michigan City boat show, end of year in water. Actually, it took another month before i closed the deal but advantages for the on the water was 1. test drive 2. boats feel different in the water vs on a stand - get a real feel for freeboard, stability etc at the dock, 3. true access to shorepower and other things nice thing about a show either on water or off is that all the boats are in one place and you can and should look at multiple boats and take your time going back and forth deciding what is best for you and leverage the different offers against each other.
  12. I would really prefer the cool teak throughout, but taking out 2nd mortgage to pay for prevented me. i also like the softness on the feet w/ carpet or the teak. I also power wash at end of season and shake them out and scrub the floor as needed during the season. the only really hard part to keep clean are the edges and the plastic tabs that grow mold around the snaps
  13. I hear ya - for my issue boat was less than 2 years old. would never want a rebuilt used drive as my boat ages i would consider it knowing the cost difference. in the end these toys cost more than my first house so a bit of insurance wasnt going to break the bank - i am usually not a big fan of "extended warranties" but i also broke even on my wife's Yukon. U-joints and differential on a 4x4 had about the same result. wish it never was used but glad i had it. cost me about 2k but saved me that as well. these high $$ cars and boats have so many little things that eventually go wrong - its probably the reason i drive a Hyundai for me: 100,000 mile warranty including normal oil services. love the service.
  14. well - the crate cost of the new drive from Volvo was 7k alone - the other costs amounted to the close to 3k. if you have access to the tools and "other" than maybe but i doubt Volvo would just send you a new drive. it took me about 2 weeks for their mechanic to diagnose that the drive was a complete loss. they will always attempt to repair first. the mechanic had to send Volvo a complete parts needed list and hours to repair, etc. The actual repair or install of the new drive was easy (2 hrs) of work. the majority of the cost was in determining what happened and I also keep good records of regular drive fluid changes - believe me - Volvo was ok but they were fishing for ways to say it was caused by lack of maint. I agree that they should cover "more" but i also feel that the location of where my boat was stored took advantage as well. In New Buffalo they charged me $150 to pull the boat and $150 to put it back in and a hefty fee to store it outside on blocks in a gravel parking lot because they could. The mechanic that came down was great and is now my current mechanic as we moved the boat up to Michigan. His hourly rate was higher than Volvo allowed but commensurate w/ area i live in.
  15. keep it in neutral and use wood to block the props - no need to put it in gear if you use the wood block