delaney

check that the leads from the lights are connected securely to the bus bar - they may not have been attached and wiggled out - hopefully all of your connections are labeled but from that end easy enough to trace

could those terminals be for winterization? a location to hook up a battery to open your engine hatch?

like others have said, go w/ the highest HP you can, and check if your lake can service - if yes to service, flip a coin if HP the same. learn how to do the maint changes yourself. invest in the basic tools to service -

2 tips 1. check the vent line from the tank to the fill nozzle. if there is "extra" hose it could act like a p-trap - shorten if you are able 2. sometimes - my starboard tank has this issue, for what ever reason the fuel pump nozzle covers the vent or restricts it enough to cause a slow fill. I bought a Jumbo straw and i extend the vent line away from the fill nozzle. helps keep the fuel flowing. i put it into the vent line (straw is about 1 foot long) - and then i fill the fuel and seems to keep the fuel nozzle from auto clicking off. just the starboard tank for me, port side is always fine. hope that helps

your issue sounds like a fuel pump to me. i would start by disconnecting the electronic fuel plug connector and reconnecting. it could simply be loose and not triggering the HP side to engage - that would be the easiest and obviously no costs - from there, there are options to buy a re-built pump, new pump or try to repair your pump. they are not cheap to buy new

the ceramic coats look very interesting to put on the gel coat as well. for your windshield once the water spots are removed - vinegar or ammonia etc. - buy the product RainEx - put that on your windshield - it will wear off unlike the ceramic but its cheap and water beads and rolls off

Yeah, in a marina the water levels rise and fall with most likely the protection of no wake zones and other barriers allowing the pier to rise and fall in a uniform fashion. having a floating pier without those benefits and watching a Malibu with 4 teenagers wakesurfing 100 yards away generating a 3 foot wave hitting your pier isn't good for a floating pier that has water lines and electric - its tremendously more damaging when the water levels are 3' higher than normal as well.

I agree that a floating dock certainly helps and is a good solution. on my lake unless you are in a protected cove, in the winter ice flows are created by US coast guard ice breaker to keep a shipping lane open. floating docks are torn apart by the shifting ice that is a result of this and also normal cold and warm times. the marinas have floating docks but are protected by a cove from the main part. normal levels of the lake my pier is easily 3' above the water line. this is the highest levels since 1986. i keep 2 bubblers running 24-7 to keep the boat lift and end of pier as open as possible - when ice flow hits and then freezes the piers nothing stops it

For me - the first thing is to protect my shoreline. i have 3 estimates ranging from vertical sheet piles (very $$$) to re-grading and adding larger rip rap around the shoreline to protect from erosion - that is still a 15-18k cost for the spring. The pier itself is a permanent pier - to remove the decking and pier is probably a 30k undertaking and raising the boat lift is probably another 10k - i would probably spend the money this summer on the shoreline and perhaps raise the boat lift a few feet. worth that at least and just wait and see about the pier the followng year.

Well, our area just had a climate forecast and projected that lake levels in Lake Michigan will only drop 6" this winter, resulting in a full 12" increase come spring from 2019. My pier was maybe 2-3" above the water line this past summer. if that is correct, i will be 100% underwater this summer

so i experienced the same thing and this is what happened. the fuel pump is easy to bump while you are working on other items such as oil changes, etc. i apparently bumped the electrical plug, it was still connected but i jarred it slightly loose - this caused the LP and HP sides to not work and when i went to full throttle I heard that high pitched whine. at first - it didn't effect the performance but very soon after the plug vibrated further loose and the engine was starved for fuel. By pure luck and frustration, i disconnected the pump to get a better look and while doing so i noticed it wasn't fully connected. i cleaned the contacts and bam- no more whine and fully functional. from your description, you say it fixed itself. i would suspect that contacts came loose - or at least rule that out as volvo fuel pumps are not cheap

one is a labor of love, the other is a labor of necessity - i will let you decide which is which

Having (2) boats is still cheaper than having (2) wives