delaney

i would opt for Volvo, the shifting is very smooth on their outdrives and for the simple reason of ease of impeller changes. i guess the downside is the lack of reservoir for the drive oil.

i would opt for the arch and have a bimini extension for shade. the arch is a real nice option as you don't have to take it down - i know that bimini tops aren't that big of a pain but the arch provides sun protection and also gives you the future options of have glass extension from the windshield to the arch in colder and windy days. not to mention, that the arch can provide lighting and speaker locations as well

for those sailboat lovers, for both space saving and cost saving Hanse is offering the esail drive. attached to the rudder it offers quiet propulsion and range is great for the day sailor. for longer runs you probably do need a generator, but instead of 2 diesel engines on board, you would only have 1. i have only seen these on the smaller less than 40' sails but i very much like where the technology is going. this is also a great option to retrofit an older sailboat with

i believe your best category of boat is a center console w/ outboards for the salt water and trips you want to make plus has the open bow you like

number of switches depends on if you are putting in dimmable or not. one switch that is on/off with all the lights you want will be very bright. i would guess, a switch for ground lights, one for arch lights, one for UW lights - if you like the accent lighting for cup holders, connect those to the dashboard lights so they are on when the dash lights up, more of a background glow and the other lights can be toggled on or off or dimmed.

if replacing, i would go w/ new tech vs led's from 2013 or earlier, they are all wired the same.

i agree with the comments on this one as well. stay put, as where you are it appears you can attach a spring line to the end of your pier to help with rotation vs against the wall if wind is pushing you into it there isn't a way to use a line to assist.

as you stated, you ran out of time. are you taking a risk? Maybe, maybe not, comments from others on this forum will always go in the worst case, what if?, what if? you ran 12 hours, if you did not notice any oil around your props or out of any of the vents it should be ok. changing in the spring is something i routinely do myself. wait for a warmer day to allow the gear oil to flow. i can tell you from 1st hand experience. if you had a seal give way and allow water in, you would know it. oil will be on your drive especially with only 12 hrs of use. it doesn't just wash off. for water to come in, it must displace the oil because you fill from the bottom and push the air out the vent top. i would rather keep the oil in even if you fear its old vs. draining it and allowing any condensation to get in and corroding or freezing.

use the strainer - close the valve to the seacock and open 2 gallons of antifreeze. turn on the a/c and simply pour the antifreeze into the strainer, the ac will pull it through - I usually put the first gallon through and use the 2nd gallon to keep the lines full. when done, i open the sea valve back up.

because i casually threw a # out there. here is my exact price to replace my anchor. 22lb delta SS - from West Marine = $489 pre-made 20' chain w/ 200' 1/2" rode = $230 1/2 anchor chain swivel = $65 total = $784 x tax 6% = $831 i'll assume free shipping with my west marine membership, boating is an expensive hobby its weird how these topics take a strange turn from a fairly broad statement about the headaches of losing an anchor. i always need to remember to be 100% specific on this forum. and yes i also misstated and called my original anchor a danforth when in fact its a delta. my stern anchor is a standard fluke type 9lb. would be $49 to replace plus 8' chain.

Lewmar Delta Stainless Steel Anchor Write the First Review $649.99 - $1,269.99 to replace mine would be $975 - 22 lb not including the 50' of chain this was from Bass Pro site. i also have seen them for sale prices in the 22 lb range for around $500 as well - so ok maybe not 1k if you shop around but point is nothing is cheap. didn't think when i gave up looking for canvas that replacing a sunbrella canvas would cost 2k

i am 50/50 sure that it did just that and wrapped around a piling, just the water temp and winds were too strong and it wasn't safe for me as i was alone, pouring down rain, high winds and cold water. i tried to see if was just near the stern but i have learned my lesson about safety a few years ago, i believed i shared my story of an electrical fire on the boat caused by me being impatient with getting underway (left my jumper cables hooked up to the jumper posts while underway and caught the ski locker mat on fire) - i cussed myself out and i have less $$ because of it, but i am still breathing. that water temp takes an effect on you very quickly. while swimming against a current and holding your breath. if i would have found it i don't know if i could've brought it up as it was too deep to touch the bottom anyways. I am heading back up next week to install the bubblers around the pier and blow out the water line for winter, maybe it will be on the shore

sunbrella canvas with the window in the middle. that window adds weight and it sunk - my lake is connected to lake michigan and really is fed by a river so big rains create a current out to lake michigan. winds were blowing opposite of current so who knows where it went. water is 8' at my lift and with the 7" of rain we had visibility in the water was maybe a 1' i am opting to not replace the window in the back canvas. in reality, i never used it as a camper, just a cover and without the window it will be lighter and much easier to stow. just got off the phone w/ Canvas Innovations - its a pretty cool process at least, they laser scan the arch and sides and take a few digital point measurements then a CAD program takes the 3D dimensions and converts to flats - so no need to create patterns - the flats are transferred to a 3D printer / cutter for canvas, then it moves to another machine to add the snaps and reinforcements. i just get to write the check

that too to replace a danforth anchor is easily a large grand not to mention the rode you need as well.

yeah!! I am trying to find humor in this and i certainly canvassed the water. i was hoping that the current and wind would wash it ashore - it probably will but in the spring after a 6 month soak rendering it useless. didn't think at all it would be that expensive to replace